1070s are so pricey. It seems like the 1060 6GB offers an awful lot of performance for less money. I can stomach spending an extra $100, but I'm not sure I can justify the extra $200.
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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2
- Thread starter Soda
- Start date
- Status
1070s are so pricey. It seems like the 1060 6GB offers an awful lot of performance for less money. I can stomach spending an extra $100, but I'm not sure I can justify the extra $200.
I just upgraded my card to a msi gaming x1080ti that I got a good deal on
Putting my old card (1080) into a 'htpc' to hook up to the tv for some gaming as well as media stuff, paired with some older hardware I have around.
Asus P55 board with Xeon x3470, ($17 for the CPU!) 4 cores 8 threads, have it OC'd to 3.8ghz. Also have 12gb ddr3 and I'm putting in a small SSD to boot from. I hope the CPU isn't too old to still hit 60fps in some games.
Putting my old card (1080) into a 'htpc' to hook up to the tv for some gaming as well as media stuff, paired with some older hardware I have around.
Asus P55 board with Xeon x3470, ($17 for the CPU!) 4 cores 8 threads, have it OC'd to 3.8ghz. Also have 12gb ddr3 and I'm putting in a small SSD to boot from. I hope the CPU isn't too old to still hit 60fps in some games.
Yeah it would be more economical to put money towards DDR4 memory on a new motherboard/cpu/ram combo for sure. You can find DDR3 memory still but it's not the most ideal situation. If you are playing on a mechanical hdd instead of a SSD that could be causing the hitching too if the game is trying to pull data from a slower drive. There are so many variables it's almost hard to pinpoint what exactly it is without testing each situation. But once you go with a new cpu, motherboard, and more memory that should help, but it's hard to say if this upgrade alone will remove the hitching. I just don't believe the 2600 is the cause of the hitching problem. Getting a new video card when you can paired with a 8700 should give you a pretty substantial leap in performance.
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No, I appreciate the advice. In my case, taking advantage of the 1600, faster memory, and 1060 sound great. I was hoping I could pull off the 1050 TI, but I'd much rather keep my core solid than reduce everything to fit around the card. The 1070 would rule. If I had the money, I'd spring for the 1080, but I just can't justify that to myself. Beyond console performance with 60-ish FPS and the ability to upgrade is already a huge step up for me. I appreciate the help!!
Nah, I'm on a SSD. The game chugs when you do inputs or when more moving models are on the screen, which makes me think the CPU is struggling to calculate the animations ((FFXV is a very elaborately layered game)) or the RAM just doesn't have enough room for them. Besides, I need the CPU first since I do things like music production and digital art more often than video gaming and those would see the most improvement with the CPU upgrade.
Thanks for the advice! I'm going to go to the 8700 (non-K) and 16GB DDR4 as soon as I'm able.
Now for the pressing question...
If I'm not overclocking (Too much hassle and way too expensive imo), can I get away with a cheapass motherboard? What's the difference between a low priced mobo and a high priced mobo? Just the OC features?
Have done the deed and switched over to Ryzen. Came together pretty well.
CPU: Ryzen 2600
MBU: Asus Prime B450-Plus
RAM: 16GB DDR4 G.Skill Ripjaw
GPU: MSI Gaming X 1070 [Will wait out and see how 20xx series shakes out]
HDD: 500GB Crucial SSD + 2x 2TB WD Drives
PWR: Corsair TX Series TX650M 650W
CASE: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M SE [Still Considering downsizing]
You should look a bit closer and consider a B350 before spending the money. That APU overclocks very easily following this guide or a youtube video. The payoff is well worth the effort. Skip to page 8 to see how impressive the results can be.
Evening!
1) What's your budget? $1500 - 1700.
2) What do you want to use the computer for? Some pretty badass gaming. I've had a mid-ranger for like 6 years, and now that I have a career salary I want to take the plunge into higher-end stuff. I play a lot of strategy and sim games, with the occasional FF XIV MMO.
3) How soon do you plan to purchase the parts and build it? Hopefully by the end of the month I can start pulling the trigger on the core parts.
4) Are you going to reuse any parts (upgrading) or are you building a completely new computer from scratch? Not sure? I have a relatively new FX-6300, though I'm not sure if it's worth keeping if everything else gets replaced.
5) Do you only need the computer itself or do you need accessories, such as a monitor, mouse, keyboard, and speakers? I can look for accessories myself I think.
6) Are you interested in overclocking? Nah.
My next big PC games I'm looking forward to playing are BF V and Hitman 2, btw.
1) What's your budget? $1500 - 1700.
2) What do you want to use the computer for? Some pretty badass gaming. I've had a mid-ranger for like 6 years, and now that I have a career salary I want to take the plunge into higher-end stuff. I play a lot of strategy and sim games, with the occasional FF XIV MMO.
3) How soon do you plan to purchase the parts and build it? Hopefully by the end of the month I can start pulling the trigger on the core parts.
4) Are you going to reuse any parts (upgrading) or are you building a completely new computer from scratch? Not sure? I have a relatively new FX-6300, though I'm not sure if it's worth keeping if everything else gets replaced.
5) Do you only need the computer itself or do you need accessories, such as a monitor, mouse, keyboard, and speakers? I can look for accessories myself I think.
6) Are you interested in overclocking? Nah.
My next big PC games I'm looking forward to playing are BF V and Hitman 2, btw.
I really need help upgrading my computer.
I have ASRock Z77 Extreme3 motherboard and an i5 3570K from 2012 or 2011, I really want a new motherboard and a Ryzen CPU but I have DDR3 ram, does that mean I need to buy new DDR4 ram as well?
Also
AMD Ryzen 7 1700 8x 3.00GHz
Or
AMD Ryzen 5 2600 6x 3.40GHz?
Or should I just stick with Intel because of DDR3? please help me!
I have ASRock Z77 Extreme3 motherboard and an i5 3570K from 2012 or 2011, I really want a new motherboard and a Ryzen CPU but I have DDR3 ram, does that mean I need to buy new DDR4 ram as well?
Also
AMD Ryzen 7 1700 8x 3.00GHz
Or
AMD Ryzen 5 2600 6x 3.40GHz?
Or should I just stick with Intel because of DDR3? please help me!
You will need DDR4 RAM regardless if you go with Ryzen or new Intel CPUs yeah.
Hell yeah this build is gonna kick ass. Not gonna lie I'm real excited to have a proper power PC, my last PC was bought in 2012 and sold it to a friend whose laptop died on him. Appreciate your help, whenever I post the full build on here with specs, ill be sure to give you a shout-out bud.
Okay Era. I'm in the market for a new 140mm intake fan at the front of my case. I'm having trouble choosing between an Air Flow fan or a Static Pressure fan. The reason I query this is because I have a HDD bay right up against the intake fan and it has 4 HDDs. Some of the video reviews are suggesting SP fans but I thought I'd run it by Era first.
Yeah I would agree you need some static pressure capable fan, but it doesn't necessarily have to be a 140mm radiator fan since those can be expensive. If you don't mind a bit of noise compared to Noctua (NF-A14 PWM, which is twice the price) I recommend the Rosewill Hyperborea, they are my exhaust fans and they have pretty strong airflow.Okay Era. I'm in the market for a new 140mm intake fan at the front of my case. I'm having trouble choosing between an Air Flow fan or a Static Pressure fan. The reason I query this is because I have a HDD bay right up against the intake fan and it has 4 HDDs. Some of the video reviews are suggesting SP fans but I thought I'd run it by Era first.
Here you can see a comparison of several 140mm fans and how they do obstructed and unobstructed.
https://www.overclockers.com/15-case-fans-tested-ultimate-140-mm-roundup/
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I was actually looking at the 140mm Noctua NF-P14S Redux Edition. It's a bit cheaper than the A14.
Noise level is pretty important to me.
That should do it, there are various models with different max rpms. The out of the box quietest would be the 900 rpm model, but I would go for the 1200 rpm PWM model, and adjust the curve so it stays under 700rpm most of the time, but still be capable of going faster if need be.
All,
After recently finishing my first ever build I'm a little confused by a fan speed issue I'm having and I was hoping someone may be able to shed some light on it.
I have an Asus Prime Z370-a mobo + 5 x Corsair SP120 fans. In my naivety I ordered 3 pin fans rather than 4 pin. When I first put the PC together all 5 fans were spinning at a constant 1300rpm which generated a fair bit of noise. Having done some more reading I ran the 'optimise fans' option in the BIOS. Thankfully this has reduced the rpm to 700 for 3 of the fans however the 2 fans plugged into the chassis 1 + chassis 2 headers still won't go below 1300rpm (60%) and no matter what I do I can't change this value.
Any information on why it might be doing this would be appreciated.
After recently finishing my first ever build I'm a little confused by a fan speed issue I'm having and I was hoping someone may be able to shed some light on it.
I have an Asus Prime Z370-a mobo + 5 x Corsair SP120 fans. In my naivety I ordered 3 pin fans rather than 4 pin. When I first put the PC together all 5 fans were spinning at a constant 1300rpm which generated a fair bit of noise. Having done some more reading I ran the 'optimise fans' option in the BIOS. Thankfully this has reduced the rpm to 700 for 3 of the fans however the 2 fans plugged into the chassis 1 + chassis 2 headers still won't go below 1300rpm (60%) and no matter what I do I can't change this value.
Any information on why it might be doing this would be appreciated.
Guys, for the longest time, the quality of Youtube vids on my PC always looks bad even in 1080p. Like, it looks like its laggy/skipping frames a little, and it just doesnt look 1080p.
I dont know what to do to fix it, I am assuming something isnt right with my software or plugin or whatever. SOrry if this is the wrong thread but Id appreciate your help
I dont know what to do to fix it, I am assuming something isnt right with my software or plugin or whatever. SOrry if this is the wrong thread but Id appreciate your help
OP
OP
Some B350 boards ship with the latest BIOS, which is compatible with 2000-series Ryzen chips. However, if you buy one off the shelf that's been sitting there for a long time, it probably has an old BIOS, in which case, yeah, you need a Ryzen 1000-series CPU to update the BIOS before a 2000-series will work. Local shops will sometimes do this for you for free or a small fee, I hear, or you can request a loaner CPU from AMD that you can use to update the BIOS, then return to AMD when you're done.
Ordered a Ryzen 2700x off Amazon. Replacing a FX-8370. Never realized how much I was bottlenecking.
That's less than convenient. Is there a list out there that shows which boards come with the latest BIOS? Putting together parts for a friends build, which he'll be building himself for the first time, so things like this aren't an option for him to ideally deal with.
1. B450 supports Ryzen+ out of the box.
2. Some retailers put stickers that say say that they support 2000 series on B350 MoBo boxes like Micro Center.
3. There's no list of B350 MoBos that support Ryzen+ out of the box, because as Soda said it depends when retailers got them.
So what are all your favorite ITX cases? I'm starting to look into upgrading my PC later this year or early next year depending on some stuff and things, and wouldn't mind some recommendations as I'm starting to build a list.
What's the word on fitting big old gpu's inside those things? Would the type of GPU cooler be important? Any other points of consideration that I may not be thinking of when moving from a full tower to a tiny case?
What's the word on fitting big old gpu's inside those things? Would the type of GPU cooler be important? Any other points of consideration that I may not be thinking of when moving from a full tower to a tiny case?
You pretty much need to decide if you want full size GPU, mini GPU, no GPU, full TDP CPU (ie 95W or whatever), or something more like 65W max. Everything breaks down into sub-categories of SFF from there.
Depending on how small and ambitious you go, you may wind up mastering the art of undervolting/underclocking to optimize things.
I've done a Zaber Sentry with full GPU/CPU with some success, but things will throttle on their own if I don't handle it manually. I've built in larger SFF cases like Bitfenix Prodigy, but that's not very small. Recently I did a firewall in a Shuttle HX110G that'll allow for small GPU and Kaby Lake CPU (the newer ones don't allow any GPU). I also did a recent build in the InWin Chopin, but is integrated GPU only.
I'm interested in playing with the Dan A4 and NCase M1 because my TV setup (now Zaber Sentry) isn't likely to accommodate the 2080Ti well, and I really need more power for the 4k display. I'm torn on that though b/c I really like the console form factor. The 2.0 version of the Sentry might be better, but losing the Founders Edition blower means I'd need to stand it vertical, losing that console aesthetic again.
Any way you go, you'll also have to study the various forms of power supplies used, and look toward sleeved cables. The stock cables that you'll get with any power supply are a huge PITA when you get into SFF space b/c they are so stiff.
Go with a b450 board now, those are updated for ryzen 2000 series.
OP
OP
Cooler Master is readying a new Hyper 212, this one known as the "Black edition" and should retail for $30, and an RGB-equipped version will retail for $40. It'll have a new mounting setup (presumably, easier to mount), comes in gunmetal black with a black silencio 120mm fan, and an expected release date at the end of October 2018. This will probably replace the 212 EVO.
Do you have any small-ish case recommendations?
I think I'm going micro atx since I need a little expansion (2 slot rx 580 + wifi card + firewire adapter card for ext. audio interface)
So far I'm looking at the fractal design define mini c but according to random commenters, it is large for a micro-atx case.
I think I'm going micro atx since I need a little expansion (2 slot rx 580 + wifi card + firewire adapter card for ext. audio interface)
So far I'm looking at the fractal design define mini c but according to random commenters, it is large for a micro-atx case.
For anyone that's interested I downloaded the Asus AI Suite and ran another fan tuning wizard (different to BIOS version) which gave me more control of my chassis fans. All fans now running around 600rpm and the PC is nice and quiet.
Will monitor temps but looking good so far.
Well, I got my i7-3960x in the mail today and... POST Code 00. So, it has to be the motherboard. Granted this motherboard lasted me 6 years, but it is the second ASUS motherboard to die on me; the first one died stone-cold, but was under warranty. If I start dumping more money into used parts, then I may as well start building a new rig.
Who is the best motherboard manufacturer these days?
I had parted out this rig earlier, but I chose ASUS, so I'd have to go back on that. Also, an AMD Ryzen 2700x is only $120 more than a 1700x; is the difference in power reflective of the difference in price?
I'm not even sure I want to dump the money into a new PC. I'm a Server Admin by trade and am in front of the PC all day. WoW has been the one exception that has gotten me back into PC gaming and who knows how long that addiction will last.
Guys I need some advice. Just got my first VR headset (Lenovo Explorer) and while I'm enjoying it a lot it's meant that it's the first time my 3570k @4.6 has started to show it's age :(
So naturally I'm looking at Cpu upgrades and the 8700k is standing out to me. Is it worth buying now or are there new Intel CPU's on the immediate horizon?
If I do go for it what Ram and Motherboard should I be looking at? I don't want to spend huge amounts on Ram and a Motherboard so what models/brands are the best bang for buck at the moment?
So naturally I'm looking at Cpu upgrades and the 8700k is standing out to me. Is it worth buying now or are there new Intel CPU's on the immediate horizon?
If I do go for it what Ram and Motherboard should I be looking at? I don't want to spend huge amounts on Ram and a Motherboard so what models/brands are the best bang for buck at the moment?
Yes, alongside new z390 boards. But they'll work on z370,h and b boards. After a bios update!
The new i7 9700k will offer 8 real cores, but without hyperthreading.
The new i9 9900k (?) will offer 8 real cores with HTT and will be able to spread its workload across 16 total threads. For a premium price of course. Activating hyperthreading will cost you around 120€ extra. It's IIntel, after all :(
The new CPUs will, apparently, be soldered and (according to rumours) be able to reach 5GHz on air cooling. This will make them, most probably, the best gaming CPUs for fast refresh rates and therefore for VR. Clock speed and single thread performance is very important for high, minimum fps. Still, 8 "real" cores will make them significantly faster in multi-threaded games over the 4c/8t i7s and even the 6c/12t 8700k.
I'm personally thinking about upgrading my 7700k too, not sure if I'm going for the i7 or the i9 though. It all depends on how expansive z390 boards are going to be.
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Ok thanks for the information. I'll wait to see what the 9 series brings in terms of gaming performance then. Even if I still end up going for the 8700k it should have come down in price a bit after the new chips are introduced.
Yes, hopefully.
For the rest of your previous question:
-As you are planing to get an unlocked K processor a z370 board is the only logical choice (or a z390 for the new 9000 series). Just get something that has all the connectivity you need and a good on board soundchip (if you aren't going to use an USB soundcard, a dedicated soundcard etc.). They are all the same performance wise and if you aren't going to hardcore over-clock you don't need the extra beefy voltage controllers of the high end series. 200-300 MHz are doable on all z370 boards.
-DDR 4, with a nice, high clockspeed. Just watch out for timings, because if they are too high they will ruin the advantage that the faster ram clockspeed gives you. DDR4 @ 3000MHz and a CL 15 rating are a good compromise between speed and price imo. Branding like Corsair or HyperX doesn't matter btw. All chips come from the same two manufacturers anyway. 2x8GB should be enough for the foreseeable feature.
So it's time to build a new PC. My current one is:
i2600k @ 4.6 HyperEvo 212 cooler (I think)
980ti Gigabyte Windforce
16GB DDR3 1600
850 Pro 1TB
850W PSU
Haf X case
Dell 3008WFP
I have 2080ti Windforce on pre-order was thinking of the following
i9900k and OC it to a stable clock on air
What air cooler is good these days?
16GB RAM still plenty? what speeds?
What Z390 motherboards would be good? i need atleast 10USB ports (high end sim rig with Rift) and GOOD wireless
I plan to keep the SSD as is
Keeping the case
Keeping the PSU
What monitor? Are ultrawide monitors pretty much plug and play or will I have to deal with custom resolutions and ini tweaks? Should I keep the 3008WFP until HDR on PC monitors is actually decent?
i2600k @ 4.6 HyperEvo 212 cooler (I think)
980ti Gigabyte Windforce
16GB DDR3 1600
850 Pro 1TB
850W PSU
Haf X case
Dell 3008WFP
I have 2080ti Windforce on pre-order was thinking of the following
i9900k and OC it to a stable clock on air
What air cooler is good these days?
16GB RAM still plenty? what speeds?
What Z390 motherboards would be good? i need atleast 10USB ports (high end sim rig with Rift) and GOOD wireless
I plan to keep the SSD as is
Keeping the case
Keeping the PSU
What monitor? Are ultrawide monitors pretty much plug and play or will I have to deal with custom resolutions and ini tweaks? Should I keep the 3008WFP until HDR on PC monitors is actually decent?
Performance wise it's still the Noctua NH D 15, though you may have problems with case, ram an PCI-E slot clearance. You can at least get black fans for it, this time around.
The next one is the Cryorig R1 Universal. It shouldn't interfere with your RAM or slots. It's a bit worse then the NH D 15 though (2-3°C) and can get significantly louder because the front FAN needs to ram up to higher RPM because of it's size.
Last but not least there is the new BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro 4. The worse performer out of the three (not by much though), but very silent!
No matter what, all three are excellent AIR coolers.
16 GB of RAM is still more then enough. You want the combination of high clock speed and low latency.
"Standard" DDR4 is rated as 2133MHz/CL15 (SDP). This gives you a "real" latency of 14.06ns (equation --> (15 / 2133)*2000=14.06ns)
The most common XMP Variants are:
DDR4 3000MHz/CL15 = 10.0ns
DDR4 3000MHz/CL 16 = 10.7ns
DDR4 3200MHz/CL 14 = 8.75ns
DDR4 3200MHz/CL16 =10ns
DDR4 3200MHz/CL 18 = 11.25ns
DDR4 38000MHz/CL18 = 10ns
DDR4 3600MHz/CL16 = 8.9ns
DDR4 3000/CL15 is a very good compromise between performance and price imo. Branding like G.Skill or Corsair doesn't matter, they all buy the chips from the same manufacturers anyway.
z390 boards aren't out yet. They will all, most probably, have the same integrated Intel on board Wi-Fi solution though. This and the new USB 3.1 controller are their biggest new feature afaik. For USB connectivity: Just read up for yourself once they are available. They will all perform equally anyway and as long as you aren't trying to get the last quantum of performance out of them VRM, Phases and MosFet quality are irrelevant. Z Series is build for "performance and overclocking", they will all suffice for normal users.
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Intel doesn't typically drop msrp on current CPUs like amd when new chips are out so I wouldn't expect a price drop. You might have to just hop on a sale when you see one. I've seen the 8700k go for about 320 to 330 at times on sale.
I'm waiting to see how much the 9900k is priced at before I decide what to do too. The other issue is availability. Even if these new 9000 series CPUs technically launch in October you might not be able to find them easily until Jan 2019 due to shortage.
I could see Intel pulling a nvidia and pricing the 9000 series around the 8000 series instead of replacing them. My guesses:
8700k 359
9700k 399
9900k 450-500
I think it will be even more expansive: 9700k for 440€ and 560€ for a 9900k. 120€ premium just to unlock HTT seems like a typical Intel move.
Great info and thanks much for the details!
I'll check out the coolers. I'll compare the audio levels of the Hyper212 I'm using now. Hell, I might even just switch with it since it's been great on the 2600k. My case is massive (HafX)so clearance is rarely an issue.
For RAM and Mobo, I'm not about any flash so cheap and functional is what I need. I saw the specs for the Z390 chipset so that should suffice from a USB capacity standpoint. The cheapest Z390 with wifi will take my money since I don't have a need for RAID, tons of disc or super cooling for OC benchmarks. I'm sure a 9900k @ 5ghz will be plenty fast for VR sim racing which is the main use case here.
If anything, I might drop down to a 1080ti if the 2080ti isn't much of a jump. RT and DLSS might have limited to no benefit in VR at this stage. Either card will max out 1600p of my display regardless.
OP
OP
The FX-6300 is definitely not worth keeping, IMO. Replacing that, however, means you need a new CPU, motherboard, and RAM (I think the AM3+ socket that you're using is a DDR3 system, and modern CPUs need DDR4).
If gaming is your main use and you aren't doing a significant amount of content creation (video editing, music-making, rendering, etc), I'd say to aim for Intel's new offerings. The thing is, Intel is expected to release new CPUs in the next month or so, and Nvidia is releasing new GPUs by the end of the month. You might want to wait for reviews for both of these releases before buying anything, seeing as how you seem to keep your PC for 6+ years at a time.
As a rough idea, look at builds within your budget range from the OP. Then, swap out whatever GPU is in that build for the a $700 RTX 2080 (one of the new cards coming from Nvidia) and that'll give you a sense of what you can buy using a newly-released GPU. You should be able to get a really incredible PC for that $1,500-$1,700 budget. Something roughly like the build below (which lacks a GPU), and then you can throw in the RTX 2080 for $700. This also includes Windows in the budget, so if you can transfer your current license, you can knock another $100 off. This is using one of the best CPUs currently available from Intel, but if they release a new series in the next month or two, it might be worth swapping out the CPU for one of those, depending on pricing, benchmarks, and how soon you want to build.
As a side note, these are somewhat placeholder parts; you can probably find a better case, PSU, etc, if you look around. You could also swap the CPU cooler for the NH-D15S (single fan instead of the dual-fan I've included) to save a bit more, and that'll be more than enough if you're not overclocking.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($307.98 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($85.22 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: *MSI - B360-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.99 @ B&H)
Memory: *G.Skill - Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($135.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: *SanDisk - SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($49.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: *Western Digital - RE4 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.95 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Case: *Fractal Design - Focus G (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($51.15 @ Walmart)
Power Supply: *Corsair - CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($42.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($94.89 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: be quiet! - SilentWings 3 PWM 50.5 CFM 120mm Fan ($17.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $911.12
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-11 11:33 EDT-0400
Hmm, so I shouldn't spring for Ryzen? I thought the consensus was that they're the best bang for your buck at the moment.
Thanks for everything else though, I'll be sure to use this post as a reference going forward.
A PC running an i5 2500k/ GTX 970/ 12 gigs of RAM has no shot of running on an LG B8, right?
Was thinking about putting the PC back in the living room but I don't think there's a chance I can run anything at decent settings with some outdated specs.
Was thinking about putting the PC back in the living room but I don't think there's a chance I can run anything at decent settings with some outdated specs.
You can always hook it up to your TV to try it out. Don't play in native 4k. Play at 1080p and have the tv scale to 4k.
You might be right. The one concern then Intel does have to worry about people bailing out to amd of the price is too high. I want to see how the 9900k compares with the 2700x in gaming at 1440p and above. If the 9900k is 500 and only like 15 to 20 percent faster than a 2700x at 300 that will probably be a tough sell. Especially since you can upgrade the 2700x to a new CPU in 2020 where you are stuck with no upgrade path with Intel.
You might be right. The one concern then Intel does have to worry about people bailing out to amd of the price is too high. I want to see how the 9900k compares with the 2700x in gaming at 1440p and above. If the 9900k is 500 and only like 15 to 20 percent faster than a 2700x at 300 that will probably be a tough sell. Especially since you can upgrade the 2700x to a new CPU in 2020 where you are stuck with no upgrade path with Intel.
Funny story.. I got a new machine a couple of years back that was pre-built with some fantastic parts on the cheap. I eventually upgraded a lot of it (Watercooler, new case etc.) because I had really rough performance and put it down to the terrible cooling from certain stock parts.
It made little difference though, and considering it had an i7 CPU and the newly released GTX 1080 in it, I still got crappy performance in certain games. I gave up on figuring out why and dismissed it as a dodgy Founders Edition version of the GPU or something.
Turns out it was due to my single stick of 16GB ram. I had my suspicions but never realised how vital dual channel was to performance till BFV beta came out and I couldn't play it. Google + TomsHardware helped bring the revelation.
I've now upgraded to 2 x 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3200MHz. I did a bit of a benchmarking comparison, see the fun below:
It made little difference though, and considering it had an i7 CPU and the newly released GTX 1080 in it, I still got crappy performance in certain games. I gave up on figuring out why and dismissed it as a dodgy Founders Edition version of the GPU or something.
Turns out it was due to my single stick of 16GB ram. I had my suspicions but never realised how vital dual channel was to performance till BFV beta came out and I couldn't play it. Google + TomsHardware helped bring the revelation.
I've now upgraded to 2 x 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3200MHz. I did a bit of a benchmarking comparison, see the fun below:
The other nice thing about prioritizing other components over the GPU in an initial build is that if you do find yourself wanting to upgrade in 3+ years, you can swap out the graphics card and all the other components will be in place.
Help me ERA-Kenobi, you are my only hope.
I'm looking to purchase a new case to replace my Corsair Air 540. I have an ATX motherboard with a NZXT Kraken X61 at the top and a MSI Gaming X GTX 1080 TI. I also have 3 SSDs at present along with the NZXT Hue+.
Here's the conundrum. I want to get a mid tower case with tempered glass, a shroud for the PSU (and to hide cables) but I would like ample cable management and ideally have handles at the top of the case to allow for easy transportation. The reason for this is I would like to take the PC from my room downstairs to my living room to hook up to my A/V system and 4K TV from time to time.
I'm looking to purchase a new case to replace my Corsair Air 540. I have an ATX motherboard with a NZXT Kraken X61 at the top and a MSI Gaming X GTX 1080 TI. I also have 3 SSDs at present along with the NZXT Hue+.
Here's the conundrum. I want to get a mid tower case with tempered glass, a shroud for the PSU (and to hide cables) but I would like ample cable management and ideally have handles at the top of the case to allow for easy transportation. The reason for this is I would like to take the PC from my room downstairs to my living room to hook up to my A/V system and 4K TV from time to time.
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