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Plastic Scale Modelling |OT| Gunpla and Everything Else
- Thread starter erd
- Start date
OP
OP
I'm not sure if any of these will interest you since they aren't by Bandai, but Revell does have a couple of good options and I figure I should mention them:
- First, there's the snap-fit one, which doesn't need glue. It's simple, but still looks to have pretty good detail according to this review, which is also really positive about it overall.
- Then there's the repackaging of a 2016 kit originally made by Zvezda which looks really, really good (but also costs 100€).
- They also make a republic star destroyer, which looks good from the few pictures and reviews I've seen.
I feel you'd want to put at least a little paint on a Star Destroyer to bring out all of the small detail they have.
OP
OP
Yeah, you're right. I actually went and looked at the manuals and they recommend a lot of different shades of gray for various different parts. The models would probably still look more passable than most models that require painting without it, but especially for the 100€ kit you'd probably want a bit more than that.
Just applied a topcoat to a gunpla for the first time, we'll see if I ruined it in an hour or two, lol.
You probably did fine. Top coating is pretty straightforward. I was pretty worried the first time I did it (especially in Florida where the humidity's a nightmare), but everything turned out nice.
It'll look like you painted it, blend your decals in, and cover up your sanding. You'll love it.
It came out ok. Looks like it did the thing where it bubbles up a bit, not sure what I did wrong but it's mostly fine (from a distance anyway!).
I posted this one in the last thread but finally got around to the weathering and topcoat. It's the RX-78-2 RG. I think I went a little too far with the weathering in some places but I'm pretty happy with it for my first try. :)
Regarding gunpla weathering, one pet peeve of mine is that mobile suits used exclusively in space have very little reasons to look dirty.
Take for example the International Space Station. Apparently the exterior is mostly clean and the only thing I've found they had to clean was a window that had become smudged with the exhaust of spacecrafts that visit it for resupply.
This looks pretty clean to me https://blogs.nasa.gov/ISS_Science_Blog/wp-content/uploads/sites/207/2014/08/AMS_2014_d.jpg
So if a mobile suit is space based and has never done battle inside a colony the only reasons one would think for it being dirty are:
Take for example the International Space Station. Apparently the exterior is mostly clean and the only thing I've found they had to clean was a window that had become smudged with the exhaust of spacecrafts that visit it for resupply.
This looks pretty clean to me https://blogs.nasa.gov/ISS_Science_Blog/wp-content/uploads/sites/207/2014/08/AMS_2014_d.jpg
So if a mobile suit is space based and has never done battle inside a colony the only reasons one would think for it being dirty are:
- Its own exhaust
- The exhaust of other mobile suits or spacecraft that it has been close to
- Direct weapon hits received
- Any kind of debris or shrapnel it has gone through (typically destroyed spaceships, mobile suits or small asteroids)
I think it often looks like garbage. I want to build an Astray, not an Ashtray. If you can do it well like a pro, though, it's amazing work. I know I can't do that.
To me it's mostly about setting.
Downed Zaku II that looks like it's been sitting in the middle of the jungle for months? You can be as rusty as you want.
Dra-C that is about to sortie from a space hangar that has controlled temperature and humidity? Your rust looks silly.
Downed Zaku II that looks like it's been sitting in the middle of the jungle for months? You can be as rusty as you want.
Dra-C that is about to sortie from a space hangar that has controlled temperature and humidity? Your rust looks silly.
This makes sense. I believe I still would have marked up my Kimaris Booster Type even though I think it was space based, simply because I don' like that bright white color. And, I don't know...something about a scuffed up mobile suit just does it for me. Machine of war, and all that.
I'm still nailing down the details on this new hobby of mine, but going forward maybe I should use some restraint haha.
I didn't even realize there was a Metal Gear Rex, other than the really expensive £100+ stuff. £45 for 1/100 scale seems like an alright price!
It's just a hobby and everyone can do whatever they like the most. In my case, I like my Kimaris as if it had just got out of the production facility, that is: clean as fuck.
https://www.resetera.com/posts/8101107/
I know, but like I said it makes good sense. I'm new at this and could use other opinions. That's a kickass Kimaris, btw
Probably not. Your best bet is a craft store, like hobby lobby or Michaels, or an actual hobby store like hobbytown.
Probably not, any plastic glue at a hardware store will most likely be for pvc plastics and not polystyrene or abs plastic. Hobby stores like Hobby Lobby, Micheals or model train stores will have hobby plastic cement.
If you dont have any hobby stores nearby, you can always buy online through amazon or other online retailers. I recommend some Tamiya Extra Thin Cement if you can find some. I try to stay away from the gel like Testor's glue.
I think what you're describing was my original intent for a Gundam operating exclusively in space. I was going to do exhaust, paint chipping and scratches and not much else, but like I said I think I got carried away, lol.
The main thing I wanted to avoid was using a brown color of any sort. I've never seen brown used with weathering that didn't look like they just smeared poop all over their gundam.
Even then, there are instances where brown can be used well. For example, any of the amphibious MS that participated in the attack to Jaburo Base are supposed to have dived into the Amazon river. Being caked in mud would make perfect sense. If it looks like poop or not it's probably related to the skill of the modeler. Myself I have zero skill in weathering because I haven't tried it even once.
You don't need to spend that much on clippers and those look quite chunky, ideally for Gundam kits you want nippers with a slimmer profile as the gates (the bit where the model part meets the sprue/frame) can get quite narrow.
I'm in the UK and I use these ordered from Amazon UK...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001AE5ZTQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C8XgBbSKFD6QX
One of these...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Modelcraft...Modelcraft&dpPl=1&dpID=51XBxoZAHXL&ref=plSrch
Some cheap and cheerful disposable hobby knives, I brought a pack of three "fixed blade" plastic handled ones from a local pound shop and I'm still using them after 6 real grade kits and a couple of others.
If you want to clean up the nubs marks (the bits left on the model part after snipping it from the frame, use an Emery board nicked from your Mother's/GF/daughter's manicure set and a few sheets of fine grade wet and dry send paper stuck to an old ice lolly stick. I use three grades 2000, 2500 and 3000 and once the part is cleaned up you would never have guessed it was snipped off a frame.
Once you have assembled your kit..
Gundam fine line markers for panel lining, Brown for reds and yellows, grey for white parts and black for darker colours, blues etc...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gundam-Mar...X236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gundam+marker
Some needlenosed tweezers for those fiddly decals
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-AA-...n+tweezers&dpPl=1&dpID=21kI1YfsEHL&ref=plSrch
And som of this, wait for one of those rare warm, dry sunny days before using it. Dry summer mornings are best, before it gets too humid .
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-Acr...amiya+ts80&dpPl=1&dpID=4176x2Qtl1L&ref=plSrch
And get this cool bastard, still my favourite Gundam design, classic 80's styling!
It's built like a tank too.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bandai-Hobby-GUNDAM-RX-178-AEUG/dp/B007EAIF6A
Avoid the UK specialist stores for Gundam kits, they charge way too much. You can use Hobby Link Japan with SAL shipping and still get it cheaper.
Amazon is as good a place as any and some of the kits they source from the UK so you shouldn't have to wait too long.
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OP
OP
My current build (Tamiya 1:48 JGSDF Light Armored Vehicle) is going pretty well.
I finished the interior, which isn't particularly detailed since it's barely visible in the finished build. I did want to experiment with some subtle weathering for the first time and I think it went reasonably well. It's barely visible, but there's enough small brown spots that it doesn't look completely pristine. The interior also came with a driver figure, which:
I also got the underside done, which was much more detailed:
Attempted some subtle weathering again, and it's actually visible in the picture. Some of the paint is slightly wrong. The back things holding the wheels (I don't really know anything about cars so I have no idea how those are called) should also be black so I'll have to go and fix that, but it's not a big deal. I probably should have went a bit harder on the weathering, but I want the final result to be pretty clean.
I also put the partially complete body on to see how much of the inside is actually visible. Pretty much none of it really:
Overall, I'm really pleased with this kit. It fits together incredibly well, it's pretty well detailed, and it isn't very expensive (I paid 20€ for it, but HLJ has it for 10€). It's not very complex, but it's a nice, small kit .
I finished the interior, which isn't particularly detailed since it's barely visible in the finished build. I did want to experiment with some subtle weathering for the first time and I think it went reasonably well. It's barely visible, but there's enough small brown spots that it doesn't look completely pristine. The interior also came with a driver figure, which:
- I've never done before.
- Took me an eternity to paint.
- Doesn't really look like it's supposed to, uniform wise, but I've never particularly cared about 100% real-life accuracy.
I also got the underside done, which was much more detailed:
Attempted some subtle weathering again, and it's actually visible in the picture. Some of the paint is slightly wrong. The back things holding the wheels (I don't really know anything about cars so I have no idea how those are called) should also be black so I'll have to go and fix that, but it's not a big deal. I probably should have went a bit harder on the weathering, but I want the final result to be pretty clean.
I also put the partially complete body on to see how much of the inside is actually visible. Pretty much none of it really:
Overall, I'm really pleased with this kit. It fits together incredibly well, it's pretty well detailed, and it isn't very expensive (I paid 20€ for it, but HLJ has it for 10€). It's not very complex, but it's a nice, small kit .
Nice Thunderbolt, makes me want one. All those colors go well together, and it has this presence...
I'm tickled to death at the little Trowa pilot in the Heavyarms EW kit. That' going to be the best part of putting it together
I'm tickled to death at the little Trowa pilot in the Heavyarms EW kit. That' going to be the best part of putting it together
Hi all, got a painting question.
I understand that ABS plastic becomes brittle when exposed to enamel paints. How bad is it?
I'm building some Megami Device kits, and was planning to use Tamiya Panel Line Accent colours, which are enamel based, as well as enamel thinners, and I'm a bit concerned since MD kits feature a lot of ABS. Is there anything I can do to mitigate the damage? Or am I better off using an alternative?
On a related note, does anyone know what kind of paints Gundam Markers use? Are they enamel as well?
I understand that ABS plastic becomes brittle when exposed to enamel paints. How bad is it?
I'm building some Megami Device kits, and was planning to use Tamiya Panel Line Accent colours, which are enamel based, as well as enamel thinners, and I'm a bit concerned since MD kits feature a lot of ABS. Is there anything I can do to mitigate the damage? Or am I better off using an alternative?
On a related note, does anyone know what kind of paints Gundam Markers use? Are they enamel as well?
future (pledge) floor wax. People have been using it as topcoat forever. Airbrush it straight out of the bottle.
Almost finished Heavyarms. I did a little painting on his missiles and some screws. I just need to complete his weapons, apply decals and panel line. It's already got this dull finish so I probably won't bother with a top coat.
I think the little stickers I've had so far were ok and not so difficult but I've never done anything like decals before. Gonna go slow
I think the little stickers I've had so far were ok and not so difficult but I've never done anything like decals before. Gonna go slow
I hope that nail clipper is not dual purpose. :pAlmost finished Heavyarms. I did a little painting on his missiles and some screws. I just need to complete his weapons, apply decals and panel line. It's already got this dull finish so I probably won't bother with a top coat.
I think the little stickers I've had so far were ok and not so difficult but I've never done anything like decals before. Gonna go slow
You mean the Master Grade Z'Gok? Or the Perfect Grade Zaku? There is no such thing as a Perfect Grade Z'Gok. (yet?)
I just got some gundam markers in (holy crap that took awhile). My question is when should I really try and apply them? I imagine before I snip them out of frames would be easiest since they'll be steady and applying them after finishing constructing would be the hardest simply because a lot of the spots will be hard to reach... But I worry about smudging them. Should I do the lines while they are still attached to the plastic and then do a clear coat and let it dry before constructing it?
Nah haha, I need to get a thin snipping tool because the nail clippers can't navigate so well when I'm cutting them out
Personally, I panel line as soon as I have cut the piece from the runner and cleaned the nubs. As you said, it makes it easier to reach areas that may be difficult once built. Panel lining as you build has an advantage: it ensures you actually do it. Some people lose the drive to do it once the model is completed if left as the last step.
If you panel line directly on plastic, you don't need to worry about smudges, even with your finger it's easy to clean excess ink. You can use an eraser as well. If you left the ink a bit to long and you still want to clean up a bit, a wood toothpick will do the trick as long as you have not let hours or days pass. After that long you may need to use water or alcohol to clean extra ink but this a corner case, usually your finger or an eraser will be enough.
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It might be easier to panel line as you complete sections. I can't imagine doing every piece as soon as its cut and sanded/shaved. yikes!
I approve! /avatar quote lol.Put in an order to add to my backlog of kits.
1/24 Initial D AE86 Trueno Project D
Where did you order it from if I may ask?
Thanks! I recently started making my way through the show and love it to death (Just finished Second Stage).
Nice! The animation gets much better after Second Stage. I don't recall Third much, but Fourth and Fifth Stage are awesome!
I have a Keiichi Tsuchiya Racing Spirits Levin model in my (never moving) backlog.
Works for me. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
When you incorporate it into the routine of getting pieces out of the runner you no longer mind it and avoids getting tired of doing it all at once.
It also allows for ink to dry while you cut another piece from the runner.
Good to hear it gets even better. I bought it off AmiAmi, I got the pre-painted version since I'm lazy.
http://www.amiami.com/top/detail/de...=1/24+initial+D$pagemax=40$getcnt=0$pagecnt=1