Alright, I'm level 40 now, done most of the main quest and am just clearing up the map right now.
This game is brilliant. Even as someone who has enjoyed the majority of the mainline AC games, I can really appreciate all the changes they did. Hitbox combat and the open-world WRPG format has done wonders for the game. No more insta-fail missions, no more tailing missions, the NPCs you escort can't die, all of it is great. I like how insane the post-assassination cutscenes are now, how fucking eccentric and fantastical they are - they've come a long way from AC1's static conversations and AC2's non-existence. In fact, all of the strange fantasy nonsense is so much fun, even if it doesn't make any sense in the series. After playing Watch Dogs 2 and seeing Senu as effectively a UAV drone, I thought it would've been dumb as hell. But no, it works for me, largely in part of the fact that I can make my horse follow the road automatically and then follow Bayek as Senu, keeping my eye out for enemies and resources.
On that note, Bayek is a great protagonist, probably one of the best ones since Ezio. I understand and can appreciate what Ubi were trying with for Connor - a more reserved character than Ezio, trying to deal with his personal tragedy and strained familial relationships as well as the invasion of his homeland by foreigners - but Bayek is exactly who Connor should've been. Aya is great as well. I don't feel as strongly about any of the other characters, though.
There are a lot of goddamn sidequests in this game, but I can't say that I've minded them. Lots are pretty high quality and I just like that everyone knows that Bayek being a Medjay is something important, which means they trust me to help them as some sort of wandering ronin.
Good shit, Ubisoft.