Audio Era: Because Sound Matters

RedlineRonin

Member
Oct 30, 2017
2,574
Minneapolis
lol yeah I’d definitely do it right and get a high end one, otherwise I won’t like it will be a big enough leap from today’s (or tomorrow’s ) console offerings. Then, PS5 would just be an exclusive box.
Lmaoooo

GearDraxon and I are the WORST influences. 1080Ti family stand up! I’m only on an MSI Gaming X. I’ll go water cooled if it’s warranted when Ampere drops. I didn’t even go water cooled on my cpu this time around. Just a Noctua

Bumrush I have definitely used game pass. It’s how I played forza horizon 4, gears, and I started outer worlds before rdr2 came out. $5/mo is ridiculous if you have multiple games you wanna catch up on.

the thing I really like about PC too is it’s so modular. You can do a build, buy a decent cpu, and ride it out a long time. Upgrade your GPU a time or two and easily span a couple console gens.

also, staying somewhat remotely OT, all the audio is generally uncompressed PCM, so that’s a bonus too.
 

Bumrush

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,640
Lmaoooo

GearDraxon and I are the WORST influences. 1080Ti family stand up! I’m only on an MSI Gaming X. I’ll go water cooled if it’s warranted when Ampere drops. I didn’t even go water cooled on my cpu this time around. Just a Noctua

Bumrush I have definitely used game pass. It’s how I played forza horizon 4, gears, and I started outer worlds before rdr2 came out. $5/mo is ridiculous if you have multiple games you wanna catch up on.

the thing I really like about PC too is it’s so modular. You can do a build, buy a decent cpu, and ride it out a long time. Upgrade your GPU a time or two and easily span a couple console gens.

also, staying somewhat remotely OT, all the audio is generally uncompressed PCM, so that’s a bonus too.
Also, modding games is really sweet. Even on my laptop with a 960M, being able to replay games by modding them or applying texture fixes - like Durantes DSFix - is so amazing.

And yes, you and GearDraxon are terrible for my wallet
 

Ocean

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,857
My current system is an all in one from 2005. I tripped on one of the rear speaker cables and ripped the cable out of the back rendering the speaker useless. I figured now was a good time to upgrade. I'm looking for another all in one as I don't feel like spending a shit load on audio equipment. This is what I'm currently looking at: https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/home_theater_systems/yht-4950u/index.html

Can anyone recommend any soundbars with wireless rear speakers? Been interested in those as well.
If you're looking to upgrade from a HTIB, I think the smart move is transitioning towards a a significant upgrade. And by that, I mean a substantial "base" purchase which you can build on moving forward.

At today's Amazon pricing, I think you could start with:

US$300: Denon X1500H
US$200: Elac Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers
US$200: Elac Debut 2.0 C6.2 Center Speaker

I know spending US$700 for a 3.0 setup seems crazy compared to the US$400 5.1 bundle you posted earlier, but I'd actually expect prices to go down a fair bit for Black Friday. I bought my C6.2 for US$150 and my B6.2 for for US$150. I wouldn't be surprised if that AVR or a comparable one dropped to US$250. Assuming these deals pan out the way they did last year, you'd be looking at a much more reasonable US$550.

Now, it's still a simpler setup (3.0 vs 5.1), for more money (US$550 vs US$400), so I absolutely get it if you don't wanna go down this route. But buying your system more slowly allows you to get better stuff than if you try to go for a more affordable setup all in one go.
 

RedlineRonin

Member
Oct 30, 2017
2,574
Minneapolis
Also, modding games is really sweet. Even on my laptop with a 960M, being able to replay games by modding them or applying texture fixes - like Durantes DSFix - is so amazing.

And yes, you and GearDraxon are terrible for my wallet
I’m glad to hear you’re really liking your setup and it all worked out. Everything must have went well with the contractor and finishing off the basement?

And you landed on ELAC stuff iirc?
 

Bumrush

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,640
I’m glad to hear you’re really liking your setup and it all worked out. Everything must have went well with the contractor and finishing off the basement?

And you landed on ELAC stuff iirc?
Yup, everything turned out great with the builder. He’s actually doing more stuff in my house now that the basement is done so that’s always a good sign.

I went with the Denon x3400H, elac Debut 2.0s for LRC and surrounds, a PB-2000 sub and RSL C34Es for the heights. All in it was roughly $3000 and I consider it a steal for the amount of enjoyment we’re getting out of it.

I love knowing that I won’t (shouldn’t) have to replace the speakers, only the AVR. Such a rarity in the tech space.
 

RedlineRonin

Member
Oct 30, 2017
2,574
Minneapolis
Yup, everything turned out great with the builder. He’s actually doing more stuff in my house now that the basement is done so that’s always a good sign.

I went with the Denon x3400H, elac Debut 2.0s for LRC and surrounds, a PB-2000 sub and RSL C34Es for the heights. All in it was roughly $3000 and I consider it a steal for the amount of enjoyment we’re getting out of it.

I love knowing that I won’t (shouldn’t) have to replace the speakers, only the AVR. Such a rarity in the tech space.
That’s awesome. I’m glad it all worked out well.

Definitely a big rarity for sure. I’m on the exact same plan. I probably won’t ever replace my MLs unless something actually stops working, but 11 yrs in and still going strong.

As we’ve started hunkering down for winter, we’ve started with the first iron man and are working out way through the MCU. Finished age of ultron last night. Disney’s audio is a bit hit and miss, as has been well documented, but overall a great sound system just continues paying dividends for years and years.
 

johan

Member
Oct 29, 2017
1,017
Think I'm gonna bite on the Elac Debut B6.2's tomorrow, just holding out for a better Black Friday price. Currently cheapest I can 285 euros on Amazon.de

It hurts that USA Amazon sells them for 200 dollars ugh
 

Bumrush

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,640
That’s awesome. I’m glad it all worked out well.

Definitely a big rarity for sure. I’m on the exact same plan. I probably won’t ever replace my MLs unless something actually stops working, but 11 yrs in and still going strong.

As we’ve started hunkering down for winter, we’ve started with the first iron man and are working out way through the MCU. Finished age of ultron last night. Disney’s audio is a bit hit and miss, as has been well documented, but overall a great sound system just continues paying dividends for years and years.
Did you end up with the new house? Sorry for not remembering but I know you were considering looking last we talked!
 

RedlineRonin

Member
Oct 30, 2017
2,574
Minneapolis
wait really? It’s that noticeable? Can you link me what you got?
It was absolutely worth it for me, but also my basement is a self-induced acoustical nightmare. The space is very small, I’m running 7.1.4, the fronts are massive dipoles, the center is a dipole, the surrounds are all bipoles and the Atmos speakers are up firing bounce speakers. It’s way too much sound for way too small of a space but I wasn’t willing to completely sell everything and start over with a different system, so I just treated the ever living daylights out of the space.

All the stuff is from Acoustic Geometry which is a local company close to Minneapolis.

I have 15 of these in a couple different sizes (they’re all custom, both size and fabric). 11 are in very places on walls and two inches thick. 4 are “clouds” and are one inch thick and wire-suspended from the ceiling by an inch or two above the seating position

And then I have one of the small curves mounted horizontally wire-suspended on the ceiling right in front of the seating position

Not sure they are needed or I’d recommend for everyone. If you’re holistically thinking about spending more money, there’s probably other places to spend dollars before here, but my room setup is unfortunately as sub optimal as it’s ever been in any place I’ve ever had my HT installed.

That said, it made a huge difference and just like the speakers, they’re panels I’ll be able to use forever in any setup or house, so I was okay with the investment.

I should prolly take some pictures at some point instead of painting word pictures. 🙂
 

Bumrush

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,640
It was absolutely worth it for me, but also my basement is a self-induced acoustical nightmare. The space is very small, I’m running 7.1.4, the fronts are massive dipoles, the center is a dipole, the surrounds are all bipoles and the Atmos speakers are up firing bounce speakers. It’s way too much sound for way too small of a space but I wasn’t willing to completely sell everything and start over with a different system, so I just treated the ever living daylights out of the space.

All the stuff is from Acoustic Geometry which is a local company close to Minneapolis.

I have 15 of these in a couple different sizes (they’re all custom, both size and fabric). 11 are in very places on walls and two inches thick. 4 are “clouds” and are one inch thick and wire-suspended from the ceiling by an inch or two above the seating position

And then I have one of the small curves mounted horizontally wire-suspended on the ceiling right in front of the seating position

Not sure they are needed or I’d recommend for everyone. If you’re holistically thinking about spending more money, there’s probably other places to spend dollars before here, but my room setup is unfortunately as sub optimal as it’s ever been in any place I’ve ever had my HT installed.

That said, it made a huge difference and just like the speakers, they’re panels I’ll be able to use forever in any setup or house, so I was okay with the investment.

I should prolly take some pictures at some point instead of painting word pictures. 🙂
That sounds amazing. So glad they work as it’s one of those things that you don’t really believe until you hear it or you get good intel from someone you trust.

If you take pics please post them here!

Happy Thanksgiving by the way!
 

SuperRaddy

Avenger
Oct 27, 2017
509
Have my pc running with sounblaster zxr card atm with Beyerdynamics DT-880 headphones and Adam Audio T5V speakers right now going to change the sound card for a Audient ID4 interface though
 

Bumrush

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,640
Think I'm gonna bite on the Elac Debut B6.2's tomorrow, just holding out for a better Black Friday price. Currently cheapest I can 285 euros on Amazon.de

It hurts that USA Amazon sells them for 200 dollars ugh
They’re really great speakers. I use them as my surrounds and they have a really lively sound without being offensive at all. Highly recommend.
 

Goodacre0081

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,913
anyone know if there's a sound quality difference between using the audio jack directly on the Motherboard VS the front panel?

when using the RealTek audio application it shows a difference in Headphone Impedance. using the back panel shows my Sennheiser HD598's at around 50 Ω which is correct. using the front panel however, the entire Impedance feature disappears.
 

johan

Member
Oct 29, 2017
1,017
They’re really great speakers. I use them as my surrounds and they have a really lively sound without being offensive at all. Highly recommend.
Just ordered them! Couldn’t find a better price but I expected that anyway.

They’re coming next week, I’m very excited. Got to get some banana plugs though (I think). Any brand of plugs/cables that’s particularly good?
 

Darkatomz

Member
Oct 27, 2017
103
CA
anyone know if there's a sound quality difference between using the audio jack directly on the Motherboard VS the front panel?

when using the RealTek audio application it shows a difference in Headphone Impedance. using the back panel shows my Sennheiser HD598's at around 50 Ω which is correct. using the front panel however, the entire Impedance feature disappears.
Massive, avoid the front panel jack at all costs if possible.
 

Haint

Member
Oct 14, 2018
485
wait really? It’s that noticeable? Can you link me what you got?
That sounds amazing. So glad they work as it’s one of those things that you don’t really believe until you hear it or you get good intel from someone you trust.

If you take pics please post them here!

Happy Thanksgiving by the way!
Room treatments are definitely not snake oil, but you have to be careful of what you're buying and benefits will vary greatly depending your room and arrangement. If you've got a smaller closed off dedicated room with nothing but chair(s), speakers, and displays--echos and reflections are going to dominate most of what you hear and absorber panels in particular are going to have a massive effect. If however you've got a big open concept room that is a combo kitchen/livingroom/study filled with furniture, paintings, and bookcases you've probably already have enough absorption and dispersion and wouldn't notice a very big difference. You'd also have to be very strategic with placement in such a room and really know what you're doing. You'll want to avoid the cheap little foam squares that are wave, zigzagged, or egg-carton patterned, they are not suitable for Hifi or home theater purposes. Given their density and depth they will absorb only the treble region, leaving the mids and bass to boom right through them creating a bottom heavy sound. As a general rule you're going to want panels that have known absorption coefficients across the frequency range. Popular choices are the Owens Corning 700 series panels and Roxul Safe N Sound. You also have to be careful with placement as to not over deaden the room. The hole of treatments and speaker placement goes really deep. Most people who pursue it buy a calibrated mic (like the UMIK1, they're around $100) and take measurements with a program called REW (Room EQ Wizard, it's free). In particular the ETC (energy time curve) is used to place treatments on the loudest spikes, where distance to the reflection point can be calculated based on the speed of sound. Perhaps the biggest difference most anyone can do with REW and mic is determine the best location for your seat, subwoofer(s) and speakers (assuming you have a dedicated space where placement is flexible). You will see MASSIVE frequency response changes moving your subwoofer(s) or seats as little as a couple feet forward, back, left, or right.
 
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Pargon

Member
Oct 27, 2017
5,087
i see that one of my hdmi ports has (ARC).
Do you mean, pc -> tv -> monitor?
ARC is the "audio return channel". So you connect the source to the TV and use ARC to connect the AVR for audio. But ARC has limited bandwidth, equivalent to an S/PDIF connection - so it cannot do "HD" audio formats.
eARC is "enhanced ARC" - a new feature which finally supports a full-bandwidth return channel and should work with all HDMI audio formats. This is how HDMI audio should have been from the very beginning in my opinion.
However some specific implementations of eARC may not support all formats yet. I believe LG's implementation does not support Dolby Atmos for devices connected via HDMI - though it's possible they might via a firmware update, as it does support Atmos via the built-in apps.

Depending on what you're trying to achieve with your setup, and what your budget is, there are many different options.
If the only issue you're trying to solve is connecting the AVR to the PC without affecting audio or video, I believe the best option would be to use a passive (not active) DisplayPort to HDMI adapter to connect the AVR via HDMI - which I completely forgot about earlier.
That way you have the HDMI 2.0 port on the PC connecting directly to the TV for features such as 120Hz and VRR support, and a separate cable going to the AVR for audio that is completely independent of the TV.

A more expensive option, but one which should work with all devices, is to replace the AVR with one capable of eARC (or use a device which converts eARC to a regular HDMI output).
Then you would hook up your source devices to the TV, and connect the AVR via eARC. This will let you send all video formats to the TV, and use most audio formats via the AVR (because LG does not currently support Atmos via eARC).

In my previous post I suggested another alternative - an HDMI audio extractor. This takes one HDMI input and splits it to two HDMI outputs: video+audio for the TV, and an audio-only output for the AVR.
The extractor I suggested should support most video formats and all audio formats, including Atmos, and does not require the AVR to support eARC.
But I've now realized that while it supports the video formats that most sources will use, it probably does not support 1440p120 or HDMI-VRR - which you'd want if you are connecting a PC to the OLED.
 

Bumrush

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,640
Just ordered them! Couldn’t find a better price but I expected that anyway.

They’re coming next week, I’m very excited. Got to get some banana plugs though (I think). Any brand of plugs/cables that’s particularly good?
I just got my banana clips off amazon and looked for ones that had high ratings. I really don’t think you’ll notice any sound differences, it’s just about making the plugging / unplugging a hell of a lot easier for you.

Room treatments are definitely not snake oil, but you have to be careful of what you're buying and benefits will vary greatly depending your room and arrangement. If you've got a smaller closed off dedicated room with nothing but chair(s), speakers, and displays--echos and reflections are going to dominate most of what you hear and absorber panels in particular are going to have a massive effect. If however you've got a big open concept room that is a combo kitchen/livingroom/study filled with furniture, paintings, and bookcases you've probably already have enough absorption and dispersion and wouldn't notice a very big difference. You'd also have to be very strategic with placement in such a room and really know what you're doing. You'll want to avoid the cheap little foam squares that are wave, zigzagged, or egg-carton patterned, they are not suitable for Hifi or home theater purposes. Given their density and depth they will absorb only the treble region, leaving the mids and bass to boom right through them creating a bottom heavy sound. As a general rule you're going to want panels that have known absorption coefficients across the frequency range. Popular choices are the Owens Corning 700 series panels and Roxul Safe N Sound. You also have to be careful with placement as to not over deaden the room. The hole of treatments and speaker placement goes really deep. Most people who pursue it buy a calibrated mic (like the UMIK1, they're around $100) and take measurements with a program called REW (Room EQ Wizard, it's free). In particular the ETC (energy time curve) is used to place treatments on the loudest spikes, where distance to the reflection point can be calculated based on the speed of sound. Perhaps the biggest difference most anyone can do with REW and mic is determine the best location for your seat, subwoofer(s) and speakers (assuming you have a dedicated space where placement is flexible). You will see MASSIVE frequency response changes moving your subwoofer(s) or seats as little as a couple feet forward, back, left, or right.
Thanks! I have an L shaped room with the HT space in the smaller (16x16) portion of the L. It’s enclosed on three sides with 8’ ceilings but I do worry about sound leakage to the wide open side.
 

zerocalories

Member
Oct 28, 2017
1,560
ARC is the "audio return channel". So you connect the source to the TV and use ARC to connect the AVR for audio. But ARC has limited bandwidth, equivalent to an S/PDIF connection - so it cannot do "HD" audio formats.
eARC is "enhanced ARC" - a new feature which finally supports a full-bandwidth return channel and should work with all HDMI audio formats. This is how HDMI audio should have been from the very beginning in my opinion.
However some specific implementations of eARC may not support all formats yet. I believe LG's implementation does not support Dolby Atmos for devices connected via HDMI - though it's possible they might via a firmware update, as it does support Atmos via the built-in apps.

Depending on what you're trying to achieve with your setup, and what your budget is, there are many different options.
If the only issue you're trying to solve is connecting the AVR to the PC without affecting audio or video, I believe the best option would be to use a passive (not active) DisplayPort to HDMI adapter to connect the AVR via HDMI - which I completely forgot about earlier.
That way you have the HDMI 2.0 port on the PC connecting directly to the TV for features such as 120Hz and VRR support, and a separate cable going to the AVR for audio that is completely independent of the TV.

A more expensive option, but one which should work with all devices, is to replace the AVR with one capable of eARC (or use a device which converts eARC to a regular HDMI output).
Then you would hook up your source devices to the TV, and connect the AVR via eARC. This will let you send all video formats to the TV, and use most audio formats via the AVR (because LG does not currently support Atmos via eARC).

In my previous post I suggested another alternative - an HDMI audio extractor. This takes one HDMI input and splits it to two HDMI outputs: video+audio for the TV, and an audio-only output for the AVR.
The extractor I suggested should support most video formats and all audio formats, including Atmos, and does not require the AVR to support eARC.
But I've now realized that while it supports the video formats that most sources will use, it probably does not support 1440p120 or HDMI-VRR - which you'd want if you are connecting a PC to the OLED.
Thanks for all the clear info. I ordered a passive dp to hdmi cable, I hope it works
 

Servbot24

The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
22,647
Looking to start investing in my HT this holiday. I'm thinking I'll start with a Denon AVR-X3500H as the home base, just need to decide what speakers to start building with. I'm thinking some floorstanding speakers might be the best starters. I'm moving in with my girlfriend so my main limitation is that whatever setup I come up with has to look good in our living room where the TV is mounted over the fireplace (center speakers might have to wait due to this and concealing wires might be tough).
 

Servbot24

The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
22,647
Anyone know if you can use Alexa to switch video input with an AVR? I'm leaning towards Denon AVR-X3500H
 

yungforever87

Member
Nov 8, 2017
456
I have an LG SK9 Soundbar and for the love of god I can't figure out why it's causing audio hiccups on my XB1X. Only happens with Dolby Atmos games too. I've changed the cables and tested other sources and it only happens with the XB1X.
 
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JaseC64

Member
Oct 25, 2017
3,369
Strong Island NY
I got the Sony HT-ST5000 early this year for gaming and movies. Sounds good and it doesn't involve lots of wires. I think this is the best I can do for a soundbar at the moment unless there is a better alternative?
 

zerocalories

Member
Oct 28, 2017
1,560
ARC is the "audio return channel". So you connect the source to the TV and use ARC to connect the AVR for audio. But ARC has limited bandwidth, equivalent to an S/PDIF connection - so it cannot do "HD" audio formats.
eARC is "enhanced ARC" - a new feature which finally supports a full-bandwidth return channel and should work with all HDMI audio formats. This is how HDMI audio should have been from the very beginning in my opinion.
However some specific implementations of eARC may not support all formats yet. I believe LG's implementation does not support Dolby Atmos for devices connected via HDMI - though it's possible they might via a firmware update, as it does support Atmos via the built-in apps.

Depending on what you're trying to achieve with your setup, and what your budget is, there are many different options.
If the only issue you're trying to solve is connecting the AVR to the PC without affecting audio or video, I believe the best option would be to use a passive (not active) DisplayPort to HDMI adapter to connect the AVR via HDMI - which I completely forgot about earlier.
That way you have the HDMI 2.0 port on the PC connecting directly to the TV for features such as 120Hz and VRR support, and a separate cable going to the AVR for audio that is completely independent of the TV.

A more expensive option, but one which should work with all devices, is to replace the AVR with one capable of eARC (or use a device which converts eARC to a regular HDMI output).
Then you would hook up your source devices to the TV, and connect the AVR via eARC. This will let you send all video formats to the TV, and use most audio formats via the AVR (because LG does not currently support Atmos via eARC).

In my previous post I suggested another alternative - an HDMI audio extractor. This takes one HDMI input and splits it to two HDMI outputs: video+audio for the TV, and an audio-only output for the AVR.
The extractor I suggested should support most video formats and all audio formats, including Atmos, and does not require the AVR to support eARC.
But I've now realized that while it supports the video formats that most sources will use, it probably does not support 1440p120 or HDMI-VRR - which you'd want if you are connecting a PC to the OLED.
Just wanted to let you know that a passive hdmi to dp cable does work !

pc to avr + pc to tv works perfectly fine
 

Outrun

Member
Oct 30, 2017
2,660
I bit the bullet and got a Denon AVR-6500H

I will finally be able to power my 7.1.4 setup.
 

wbloop

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,310
Germany
Today, this baby arrived:
I went with the Denon AVR-X2400H for my long overdue 4K upgrade. 285€ on Black Friday was too good of a deal. I still love my good old Yamaha RX-V675, but using 4K HDR content was a pain in the ass with it. Optical out is something I don't wanna bother with anymore. Dolby Atmos (in 5.2.2 config) and Vision, DTS:X, 8 HDMI-in all with HDCP 2.2 support... seriously, in terms of features this thing is a beast. First sound check after Audyssey calibration sounded fantastic.

On that note, I need to sell my old Yamaha to compensate the upgrade costs. Which thread can I use on ERA specifically?
 

sora bora

Member
Oct 27, 2017
551
Today, this baby arrived:


I went with the Denon AVR-X2400H for my long overdue 4K upgrade. 285€ on Black Friday was too good of a deal. I still love my good old Yamaha RX-V675, but using 4K HDR content was a pain in the ass with it. Optical out is something I don't wanna bother with anymore. Dolby Atmos (in 5.2.2 config) and Vision, DTS:X, 8 HDMI-in all with HDCP 2.2 support... seriously, in terms of features this thing is a beast. First sound check after Audyssey calibration sounded fantastic.

On that note, I need to sell my old Yamaha to compensate the upgrade costs. Which thread can I use on ERA specifically?
Why do AVR's retain that old school display panel? I'm guessing there's technical reason as I've never seen a consumer model that has anything more than that...Gameboy (what's the actual term here?) display.

TIA for my future edification.

P.S. Congrats, btw. As for selling, i think the OT area has a FS/WTB section.
 

Nabbit

Member
Oct 25, 2017
2,700
I'm getting this TV:

TCL 55" Class - 6-Series - 4K UHD LED LCD TV


May I ask please for a recommendation for a good soundbar/sound system? Especially a current or upcoming deal.
I'm not sure what typical prices for quality are like.

I received this kind recommendation from another member via PM:

"The lowest end sound bar that I see recommended is this one from Vizio, which does have HDMI ARC. It also has a wireless subwoofer and side surround speakers that plug into it. It’s a budget 5.1 system that would get the job done. Currently $150 at Best Buy for CyberMonday.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/vizio-smartcast-5-1-channel-sound-bar-system-with-5-1-4-wireless-subwoofer-black/5768100.p?skuId=5768100&irclickid=U6zwpIxgrxyOU9T0TWXZ0S3wUkn3NV1JLwaUVA0&irgwc=1&ref=198&loc=U6zwpIxgrxyOU9T0TWXZ0S3wUkn3NV1JLwaUVA0&acampID=614286&mpid=197432 "

It's not on sale at the moment but maybe it will be again.

Is this the one y'all would recommend too or something else? Looking for something good quality but probably not top of the line. Not sure how much I want to spend...maybe $200 or less?

Thanks in advance for your time all!
 

Haint

Member
Oct 14, 2018
485
I'm getting this TV:

TCL 55" Class - 6-Series - 4K UHD LED LCD TV


May I ask please for a recommendation for a good soundbar/sound system? Especially a current or upcoming deal.
I'm not sure what typical prices for quality are like.

I received this kind recommendation from another member via PM:

"The lowest end sound bar that I see recommended is this one from Vizio, which does have HDMI ARC. It also has a wireless subwoofer and side surround speakers that plug into it. It’s a budget 5.1 system that would get the job done. Currently $150 at Best Buy for CyberMonday.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/vizio-smartcast-5-1-channel-sound-bar-system-with-5-1-4-wireless-subwoofer-black/5768100.p?skuId=5768100&irclickid=U6zwpIxgrxyOU9T0TWXZ0S3wUkn3NV1JLwaUVA0&irgwc=1&ref=198&loc=U6zwpIxgrxyOU9T0TWXZ0S3wUkn3NV1JLwaUVA0&acampID=614286&mpid=197432 "

It's not on sale at the moment but maybe it will be again.

Is this the one y'all would recommend too or something else? Looking for something good quality but probably not top of the line. Not sure how much I want to spend...maybe $200 or less?

Thanks in advance for your time all!
Most people in this thread are going to recommend separate components, not sound bars. In terms of dedicated speakers you can get near budget sound bar prices, a pair of Dayton MK442's oriented vertically as your front left and right mains would be $44/each with the matching $60/pair MK402X bookshelves as the surrounds. You will need a receiver to power them, but fortunately you can find used ones on Craigslist/FBMarket/Ebay for under $100 perpetually that support all the modern formats. You may be able to find some really great used speakers on there as well, though at these prices they would typically get snatched up really fast.
 
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kvetcha

Member
Oct 27, 2017
7,514
Why do AVR's retain that old school display panel? I'm guessing there's technical reason as I've never seen a consumer model that has anything more than that...Gameboy (what's the actual term here?) display.

TIA for my future edification.

P.S. Congrats, btw. As for selling, i think the OT area has a FS/WTB section.
Cuz there's zero functional need for one and the money is better spent on other components in the receiver. They all use on-screen displays now.
 

Nabbit

Member
Oct 25, 2017
2,700
Most people in this thread are going to recommend separate components, not sound bars. In terms of dedicated speakers you can get near budget sound bar prices, a pair of Dayton MK442's oriented vertically as your front left and right mains would be $44/each with the matching $60/pair MK402X bookshelves as the surrounds. You will need a receiver to power them, but fortunately you can find used ones on Craigslist/FBMarket/Ebay for under $100 perpetually that support all the modern formats. You may be able to find some really great used speakers on there as well, though at these prices they would typically get snatched up really fast.
Thanks for all the info! I'll take a look. This is such a newbie question but I need a receiver for all the speakers? And where do these speakers fall on the quality spectrum?
 

hanshen

Member
Jun 24, 2018
1,321
Chicago, IL
I'm getting this TV:

TCL 55" Class - 6-Series - 4K UHD LED LCD TV


May I ask please for a recommendation for a good soundbar/sound system? Especially a current or upcoming deal.
I'm not sure what typical prices for quality are like.

I received this kind recommendation from another member via PM:

"The lowest end sound bar that I see recommended is this one from Vizio, which does have HDMI ARC. It also has a wireless subwoofer and side surround speakers that plug into it. It’s a budget 5.1 system that would get the job done. Currently $150 at Best Buy for CyberMonday.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/vizio-smartcast-5-1-channel-sound-bar-system-with-5-1-4-wireless-subwoofer-black/5768100.p?skuId=5768100&irclickid=U6zwpIxgrxyOU9T0TWXZ0S3wUkn3NV1JLwaUVA0&irgwc=1&ref=198&loc=U6zwpIxgrxyOU9T0TWXZ0S3wUkn3NV1JLwaUVA0&acampID=614286&mpid=197432 "

It's not on sale at the moment but maybe it will be again.

Is this the one y'all would recommend too or something else? Looking for something good quality but probably not top of the line. Not sure how much I want to spend...maybe $200 or less?

Thanks in advance for your time all!
I bought Vizio SB36512-F6 for my TCL 6 series this Black Friday for $300, I think it's well worth it.
 

Haint

Member
Oct 14, 2018
485
Thanks for all the info! I'll take a look. This is such a newbie question but I need a receiver for all the speakers? And where do these speakers fall on the quality spectrum?
1 receiver will power 5 or more speakers, that is what the 5.1 or 7.1 label on it refers to. For example a 5.1 receiver will power 5 speakers and has 1 subwoofer input. A 7.2 receiver will power 7 speakers and has 2 subwoofer inputs. The Dayton MK's are some of the cheapest speakers you can buy new, but are objectively quite good (you can Google reviews). The Sony Core bookshelves are another well regarded budget favorite, sometimes going on sale for $70-$80/pair. Both of those in a 4.0 setup would significantly outperform the $150 Vizio. You would however see a very very significant improvement stepping up to a ~$300/pair bookshelf like the KEFQ150's or Focal Chorus while they're on sale (they are normally like $600+/pair). If all you've got is ~$200 the MK's and Core's are a great system, but if this is an arbitrary self imposed budget and you're not going to skip bills or meals over an extra $200, it is WELL worth stepping up to the Focals or KEF's as your front left and right mains. I would still stick with the pair of Dayton MK's or Sony Core's as the side/rear surrounds though, it's not imperative your surrounds match on a budget.
 
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Lebon30

Member
Oct 27, 2017
658
Canada
Hi guys.

So, since July 2015, I've been rocking the stock pair of ear pads on my ATH-M50x. It's the fake-leather type. They are kind of disgusting right now so I'm looking to replace them. A quick google around and it seems like people are recommanding these Brainwavz HM5 Velour pads: https://www.amazon.ca/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDX4YO/

But it seems like it'll make my ears further away from the drivers so sound might take a hit depending on your subjectivity.
I could always go with stock pads but I kind don't like them after trying velour type recently. The stock pads does fit my ears inside and I also wear glasses.

So, I'd like to have suggestions for this. I don't want to spend a fortune on this either. ~40$CAD is the max I would throw around for.

Thanks!
 

tommyv2

Member
Nov 6, 2017
1,163
Hi guys.

So, since July 2015, I've been rocking the stock pair of ear pads on my ATH-M50x. It's the fake-leather type. They are kind of disgusting right now so I'm looking to replace them. A quick google around and it seems like people are recommanding these Brainwavz HM5 Velour pads: https://www.amazon.ca/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDX4YO/

But it seems like it'll make my ears further away from the drivers so sound might take a hit depending on your subjectivity.
I could always go with stock pads but I kind don't like them after trying velour type recently. The stock pads does fit my ears inside and I also wear glasses.

So, I'd like to have suggestions for this. I don't want to spend a fortune on this either. ~40$CAD is the max I would throw around for.

Thanks!
Fellow Canadian,

Get these instead, imported from Amazon.com. May be slightly more money but worth it because they change the sound less than your other choices.


Much better than the other options. I love mine.
 

Lebon30

Member
Oct 27, 2017
658
Canada

tommyv2

Member
Nov 6, 2017
1,163
Oof. That's an hard pill to swallow when I have limited funds :|
but they do look very similar to the stock pads.
Honestly? Worth it. I’m really particular with these things and they satisfied me. My M50x are probably the worst headphones I own and I still love them dearly and would never go back to the stock pads.