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snapcracken

Member
Oct 25, 2017
619
In my last thread, I asked for a good soundbar recommendation in the $100-200. I didn't get many replies so I ended up getting this Vizio setup that was being recommended on another site.

After taxes, it ended up costing me $250, which was a bit above my budget, and now I've packed it back up and am likely going to return it unless someone can clear some stuff up for me.

Firstly, I'm using a LeEco Super4 X55. I managed to get it during the Walmart firesale for $350 (MSRP $799). It's a decent enough TV, but the built-in speakers are trash. If you turn off audio shaping the dialogue is indecipherable and muddied, if you turn on the audio shaping the speakers get tinny and just all around awful (but hey, at least you can understand what people are saying). I've gotten used to using my headphones (a highish end Sennheiser DJ pair that I picked up on sale for $80) with my TV, but this involves me:
  1. Unplugging my headphones from my computer
  2. Taking them downstairs
  3. Plugging in my long 3.5mm to 2.5mm cable to the back of the TV
  4. Running the cable all the way to the couch
  5. Plugging in the 2.5mm jack into my headphones
  6. Changing the TV output from in-built speakers to headphones
And since my roommate also uses the TV, I have to unplug everything and put it all away once I'm done using the TV. It's a huge pain and I just don't want to deal with having to do this anymore. As a result, I got the aforementioned soundbar, but here's where I get lost.

I've hooked everything up and watched a few episodes of Stranger Things 2 to test it out. It's much, much better than the original speakers, but I'm still a little disappointed. The two satellite speakers don't seem to do much and the soundbar itself, while a meaningful upgrade, isn't as clearly defined as I would wish. The subwoofer is nice, though, and I really it being wireless, as I already have a mess with cable management. But I'm sort of lost with audio standards and trying to get the most out of it. So, from what I understand, there is PCM, Dolby Digital, and DTS, correct? In the TV's settings, the only option is PCM, despite the soundbar supposedly supporting all three. Is this a problem with my TV or is the soundbar handshaking properly? Is this the reason the two satellites didn't do much in Stranger Things? Would even changing the protocol change the quality enough that it's worth a second look?

Right now I have everything packed back up in the box. I was planning to return the setup and then try again when Black Friday rolls around, but I really don't want to deal with having to swap in my headphones repeatedly for the next month or so. Lastly, a lot of communities online seem to keep telling people not to even bother with soundbars and to build a setup by throwing together a receiver, bookshelf speakers, and a subwoofer, but I don't want to do that. I'm a college kid who has a $300 TV, like I don't see the point in investing a bunch of time and effort into making a setup that would end up costing more than I paid for the TV.
 

Aftermath

Member
Oct 27, 2017
3,756
I dont know but I wonder if Stranger things audio is deliberately recorded like that as a throwback to the 80's? I haven't seen the show before but I know they did a joke vhs box for the first series, seeing that they love the 80's, so did they maybe record lower sound to give a 80's feel? Can you try another show?
 

munancho

Banned for suspected use of alt account
Banned
Oct 27, 2017
394
Load up John Wick, flick to Chapter 7 and use that to calibrate your soundbar setup. It made a world of difference when I got mine as out of the box it didn't sound too impressive but using that film as a reference point and judiciously tweaking the levels for the bar allowed me to get an absolutely awesome sound without spending a fortune.
 

shockdude

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,310
You used the optical cable to hook up your soundbar, right?
Be wary that a lot of TVs fail to output anything other than PCM over their optical out. Continue fiddling with your TV settings, but if that doesn't work then you'll have to connect your soundbar directly to your media device to get anything more than 2.1 audio.
According to the soundbar manual, there's a light on the soundbar that turns on for 5 seconds if it detects a proper Dolby/DTS signal.
Also from the manual: disable DTS TruSurround (Surnd), disable TruVolume (TruVol), disable Night Mode (Night), disable Eco Power (EcoPwr).
The soundbar has an equalizer and subwoofer level which is nice, so be sure to play with that as well. If in doubt, just leave the equalizer flat and adjust the subwoofer to taste.
 
OP
OP
snapcracken

snapcracken

Member
Oct 25, 2017
619
I went ahead and took it out of the box and hooked it all back up again. The TV only has 3.5mm out and optical, and the sound bar only supports optical and what it calls coaxial (it looks like a composite cable) so unless I get an adapter I'm stuck with optical. I switched the TV settings to "Auto" from PCM and that caused an option called "External Surround System" to be enabled, which I selected "yes" to. It seems to have made some difference to the satellite speakers, at least now while my roommate is using the Switch.
 

shockdude

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,310
Optical's the best connector for your particular soundbar, so that's fine.
Your TV having an "External Surround System" options is a good sign; it implies that your TV can passthrough proper 5.1 Dolby/DTS to your soundbar. That being said, you'll need to verify this by playing a movie/game known to support 5.1 Dolby/DTS, then checking for that Surround Sound light on your soundbar.
IIRC the Nintendo Switch can't do 5.1 Dolby/DTS. It can do 5.1 LPCM, which is supported over HDMI but not optical. I would be very surprised if your TV transcoded the Switch's 5.1 LPCM to 5.1 Dolby/DTS, instead of just downconverting it to stereo 2.1. If the TV is converting the Switch's 5.1 to stereo, you're better off having the Switch output stereo in the first place.
Regarding TruSurround, which I previously suggested you disable: TruSurround is an algorithm to upconvert 2.1 to 5.1 (imo these algorithms don't work very well), but the manual doesn't make it clear whether disabling TruSurround has the side-effect of disabling proper Dolby/DTS or not. Play around with that.
 

Hooky

Banned
Oct 27, 2017
282
I have this system set up in a weird little extra room and was surprised at how decent it is. Was expecting shit.

One caveat here: I don't use it very often so despite owning the thing I'm not super familiar with it, so this may be wrong and not helpful at all. You're welcome.

Ok, pretty sure you want TruSurround on. That will give you simulated surround when the system isn't getting a true signal and will be overridden when it is. "TruSurround" is basically just "surround"; if you turn it off you'll never get anything out of the rear speakers.

Anyway, once you have that settled, turn on a source and go through/adjust the levels. It's kind of slick: the remote's screen will show you what speaker/settings you're adjusting and the vertical column of lights on the bar will show you the levels. I do specifically remember having to bump up the rear speakers quite a bit on initial setup.

Think the main problem you had (and seemingly already addressed) concerned the signal from the tv and not the bar/system. GL.