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Oct 27, 2017
1,031
Not sure about your specific set's settings, but in the Switch menu there is an option called RGB range. Setting that to Full made my Switch image worlds better. I think the default setting is limited.
 
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"D."

"D."

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Oct 30, 2017
2,486
Not sure about your specific set's settings, but in the Switch menu there is an option called RGB range. Setting that to Full made my Switch image worlds better. I think the default setting is limited.

I did enable Full on the Switch and it does look better. As far as my settings on my TV they're at default
 
Oct 25, 2017
8,617
Sharpness at 0 or native, depending on what TV you have.
On most TVs sharpness is an artificial filter which will bring out the jaggies in most cases. On some TVs 0 sharpness will actually make the image blurrier so be careful with that.
 
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"D."

"D."

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Oct 30, 2017
2,486
I'm gonna try these and damn that mCable for gaming is pretty high
 
Oct 25, 2017
3,722
You got a Samsung! Which is great, because Samsung TV's have the settings we need to make the Switch look amazing.

I'll be able to get into more detail later, but the #1 thing to do is to set the Switch's input on the TV as "PC" -- this will remove any and all extra upscaling and processing; in fact I do this on all games, as the upscaling artifacts are always distracting and piss poor. There's a few other settings to tweak/turn off but this is the big one.

The *second* thing to do, is if you're going to play a game that renders at 720p, set the Switch itself to output at 720p. If it's 900 or 1080p, leave it at 1080p output, but Xenoblade, Bayonetta, and Doom all run at 720p/max, as examples. Your TV will then render a perfect, crisp, 720p image. No upscaling artifacts, no blurriness, no stretched pixels -- It will look identical to native resolution. Why? Because 2160 / 720 = 3, meaning it doesn't need to make any weird half pixels or anything -- each 720p Switch pixel gets a perfectly square 3x3 grid of pixels on your TV.
1080p content will, as well, look perfectly identical to native res, as 2160p is exactly double 1080p. This aspect of Samsung TV's make them ideal for any device that does both 1080p and 720p with frequency.
 

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Oct 27, 2017
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I did enable Full on the Switch and it does look better. As far as my settings on my TV they're at default
probably wrong. The settings are almost the same as the ps4/xbox because games match with limit set.

Try match the nintendo switch with your tv. First, use limit(or HDMI black level = low on samsung tvs) on both tv and ns.
Second, reduce to zero or 1 sharp. I recomend sharp 1 for games like Sonic Mania and Wonderboy.
Turn off motion flow and put in 'game mode'.
Warn2 or warn1, but this you can choise.
Update your TV firmware and then you can put your color space in 'AUTO'
Gamma put in -1
Disable dynamic contrast and black tone. In Sony TV is white and dynamic color.
 
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Oct 27, 2017
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Sharpness at 0 or native, depending on what TV you have.
On most TVs sharpness is an artificial filter which will bring out the jaggies in most cases. On some TVs 0 sharpness will actually make the image blurrier so be careful with that.

If you have a Samsung TV this is terrible wrong. In Samsung 'GAME MODE' when you put sharpness in 0, this mean the sharpness are actually none, but if you use 'PC MODE' (you can make this in input rename), the sharpness 0 WILL MAKE YOUR TV BLURRY because the sharpness 50 = sharpness 0. Above sharpness 50 in 'PC MODE' you get a negative sharp, so like -1,-2,-3,etc... so you just start to increase the blurry.

Some people prefer 'PC MODE' because in 'Game Mode' you can't change some sound options (they force some kind of virtual surround and I HATE SO MUCH), sometimes I prefer 'pc mode', but the input lag in game mode are so low...
My brother always change the bloody input to PC because he hate the quality of the sound in 'Game mode', this I understand.
 
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"D."

"D."

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Oct 30, 2017
2,486
If you have a Samsung TV this is terrible wrong. In Samsung 'GAME MODE' when you put sharpness in 0, this mean the sharpness are actually none, but if you use 'PC MODE' (you can make this in input rename), the sharpness 0 WILL MAKE YOUR TV BLURRY because the sharpness 50 = sharpness 0. Above sharpness 50 in 'PC MODE' you get a negative sharp, so like -1,-2,-3,etc... so you just start to increase the blurry.

Some people prefer 'PC MODE' because in 'Game Mode' you can't change some sound options (they force some kind of virtual surround and I HATE SO MUCH), sometimes I prefer 'pc mode', but the input lag in game mode are so low...
My brother always change the bloody input to PC because he hate the quality of the sound in 'Game mode', this I understand.

Good to know, wasn't aware of this but a lot of people would always say "go PC Mode" without much of an explanation
 
Oct 25, 2017
3,722
Try match the nintendo switch with your tv. First, use limit(or low on samsung tvs) on both tv and ns.
As long as both the system and the TV match, Full RGB should be used. "Automatic" setting doesn't *always* work though, so a manual check that both are set to full may be in order.

Turn off motion flow and put in 'game mode'.
Within the "Motion flow settings" there is a setting for "LED Clear Motion", which uses backlight strobing to increase motion resolution. This does cause a loss of brightness however, so it's up to him if he wants to enable it. To do so though, he needs to set it to "Custom" and manually drag every other option in that menu to 0, and then separately enable LED Clear Motion.

Regarding Game Mode, it is far more preferable to simply tell the TV that the Switch is a PC, as this disables *all* extraneous processing, instead of just "some", giving a more correct image on top of reducing input delays even further.
 

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Oct 27, 2017
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As long as both the system and the TV match, Full RGB should be used. "Automatic" setting doesn't *always* work though, so a manual check that both are set to full may be in order.
This is the problem with the modern tvs... You see they not actually 'modern' because you need to made a bloody configuration every time... For adjust the HDR is a living hell. I made the configuration here in my house... believe me. We have 4 tvs, LG, SAMSUNG and 2 Sony.
I highly recomend don't use 'AUTO' because they hard made automatic configuration... Put in you NS low/limit, then in your TV HDMI Black Levels to low (Bravia you need to dig even more. Press the home button, then video config and then profissional options. Choise the HDMI you ns is plugged and remove 'auto'. Put limited.
Within the "Motion flow settings" there is a setting for "LED Clear Motion", which uses backlight strobing to increase motion resolution. This does cause a loss of brightness however, so it's up to him if he wants to enable it. To do so though, he needs to set it to "Custom" and manually drag every other option in that menu to 0, and then separately enable LED Clear Motion.

Regarding Game Mode, it is far more preferable to simply tell the TV that the Switch is a PC, as this disables *all* extraneous processing, instead of just "some", giving a more correct image on top of reducing input delays even further.
I don't recomend 'PC mode' unless you have a 2017 Samsung TV, because this TVs now have PC mode with the same low input lag as in Game mode.
My TV is a 2016 Samsung, but the PC mode have more input lag then 'game mode'.
PC mode use sharpness to 50, this mean ZERO SHARPNESS, so leave in 50. Above that you can't change much. Some video options in 'PC MODE' ' are disable, so is hard to recomend this mode.

So, if your Samsung TV is from 2017/2018, you can indeed use PC MODE because they fixed the input lag (20 or less in both PC and Game mode).
 
Oct 25, 2017
3,722
I highly recomend don't use 'AUTO' because they hard made automatic configuration... Put in you NS low/limit, then in your TV HDMI Black Levels to low
Why do you keep recommending Low Black/Limited RGB? There's *zero* reason to do this, it simply limits the number of colors that can be displayed. It may not be a large difference, but why limit it?

I don't recomend 'PC mode' unless you have a 2017 Samsung TV, because this TVs now have PC mode with the same low input lag as in Game mode.
Even if there is a small bump in input delay on the older models (not sure why there would be), PC mode doesn't have any dumb processing; The PS4 shows this pretty well -- my avatar is a colorful blob in "Game mode", but setting the input to PC it's rendered perfectly sharp -- and, this in particular will benefit 720p games, which exist on Switch, as it prevents the ugly upscaling that turns games into blurry messes.
 

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Oct 27, 2017
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Why do you keep recommending Low Black/Limited RGB? There's *zero* reason to do this, it simply limits the number of colors that can be displayed. It may not be a large difference, but why limit it?
Because this games still don't use full color proper unless NS games works unlike ps4/XBO games. Sometimes they just make the color saturated.
Just like temp color... Warm2 its not a famous option, but we still recommend for 'pc like' color gamma.
Even if there is a small bump in input delay on the older models (not sure why there would be), PC mode doesn't have any dumb processing; The PS4 shows this pretty well -- my avatar is a colorful blob in "Game mode", but setting the input to PC it's rendered perfectly sharp -- and, this in particular will benefit 720p games, which exist on Switch, as it prevents the ugly upscaling that turns games into blurry messes.
My brother learn this from the hard way. You see, both me and him like Kingdom Hearts. In birth by sleep exist a minigame with you need to press the button in the right moment (music game about making icecream). Just guess who of us beat this minigame?
I can't confirm the difference in lag input, sometimes is little, sometimes is high, but one think is true: They made a huge difference in 60 fps games.