True, but still prefer the re-use aspect over cutting zip ties.
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Bicycle ERA |OT| This Is Why
- Thread starter Jill Sandwich
- Start date
True, but still prefer the re-use aspect over cutting zip ties.
I currently use an edge 25 that I won at a dealer event. I like it. I do want to upgrade to something with base maps and more touring/exploration focused.
Based on the DCRainmaker post it looks like the lower end Garmins still just do breadcrumbing without any map. The Wahoo's use OpenStreetMaps to give you an actual map overlay
Smooth move tonight. Came to a an offset crossroads with a red light. Stopped and unlipped one foot. When the lights changed I peddled off and tried to clip in my other foot, missed the clip but pushed down hard which caused my foot to slip off the pedal and onto the road which somehow managed to unclip the other foot which also slipped off and I fell onto the top tube on my balls. Both feet dragging on the road behind me, freewheeling into the junction with queues at the other lights. SPD SLs are slightly trickier than my old SPD pedals.
They'll tell you when to turn but iirc my garmin 520 did not have street names or street over lay. It's literally a black line in blank space.
I can def recommend it!
Armstrong settled for 5 mil, I think that couldn't have ended better for him.
So, I just used Sheldown Brown's site to compute my gears ratio on my tweaked brompton:
Do you guys reckon they are in a healthy balance? I'm thinking that it might not go low enough...
Aren't you overthinking this? I mean... do you feel like you need other ratios?
That's probably a better indicator than some numbers imho.
So the first thing I'm curious about is what kind of drivetrain your bike has.So, I just used Sheldown Brown's site to compute my gears ratio on my tweaked brompton:
Do you guys reckon they are in a healthy balance? I'm thinking that it might not go low enough...
As far as whether your overall range is appropriate: you're in a far better position to judge that than us. If you're frequently running out of gears on climbs and having to grind at annoyingly low cadences, then sure, having lower gears would be nice.
35 inches isn't a crazy high granny gear, but it's not a very low granny gear either. Most road racing bikes these days go a little lower than that...
My drive train is a 56t Chain ring, 12t and 16t rear sprockets w/derailleur and a 5 speed sturmey archer SFR5(w) internal gear hub. Oh, and 175mm cranks.
I know that the most common given answer is "whatever you are comfortable with", but I'm comfortable with seemingly low cadence and I have read that that might be bad for the knees and some spinning is advisable. And I'm never comfortable on climbs :S .
I don't know which is my cadence, but must be low as I top at 36Km/h with ~125 gear inches.
I know that the most common given answer is "whatever you are comfortable with", but I'm comfortable with seemingly low cadence and I have read that that might be bad for the knees and some spinning is advisable. And I'm never comfortable on climbs :S .
I don't know which is my cadence, but must be low as I top at 36Km/h with ~125 gear inches.
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Honestly man everyone rides different. I prefer a higher cadence but have no problem pushing in the 80-85 range. Some of my friends like to just grind on it.
I ride 90-100 which is maybe a bit much.
Rode the furthest I ever have and did the most climbing I have ever done today. Totally done in but pleased with myself. Going to treat myself to beer, junk food and start God of War tonight.
Amazing weather here today, wish I'd took some pictures but didn't want to stop.
Rode the furthest I ever have and did the most climbing I have ever done today. Totally done in but pleased with myself. Going to treat myself to beer, junk food and start God of War tonight.
Amazing weather here today, wish I'd took some pictures but didn't want to stop.
70 miles and 3500ft climbing. I know that's not a lot for many cyclists, but it's new for me.
Depending on my back, I'm hoping to do a 105 mile sportive with 7000ft climbing at the end of June. If I'm not fit enough by then I'm just going to do the route of the sportive by the end of the summer.
I have to be careful with my back as I was off the bike with it for 6 months from April until October last year.
That's really good. The jump from 70 to 100 miles is not as bad as it sounds. With a few more 70 milers under your belt you should be ready for a century.
I haven't really gotten started yet on my riding, the weather here in the northeast has been really cold.
Hello Bicycle-ERA!
I want to buy my first bike. I will be riding it on the road and on light trails. I would like to stick between $200-$300 if possible. I know that at this price range it's hard to get something good. I just want something that's alright and not trash. At the same time, I don't want to spend money on something that I'll regret later (shoddy quality).
I went to Dick's Sporting Goods and found a few bikes that looked decent (to my untrained eye).
Would you guys recommend any of these?
https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/...ike-15nisanshkpbl14xxrmb/15nisanshkpbl14xxrmb
https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/...ike-16nisanshktmrck15cmf/16nisanshktmrck15cmf
https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/...ike-16scwa700cmnsschwdsb/16scwa700cmnsschwdsb
https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/...ike-17hjla275mschchtxrmb/17hjla275mschchtxrmb
https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/...ike-16nisanshknsz15xxdsb/16nisanshknsz15xxdsb
That last two is a little higher in cost than I would like but I'm still considering it because it looks pretty decent.
I want to buy my first bike. I will be riding it on the road and on light trails. I would like to stick between $200-$300 if possible. I know that at this price range it's hard to get something good. I just want something that's alright and not trash. At the same time, I don't want to spend money on something that I'll regret later (shoddy quality).
I went to Dick's Sporting Goods and found a few bikes that looked decent (to my untrained eye).
Would you guys recommend any of these?
https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/...ike-15nisanshkpbl14xxrmb/15nisanshkpbl14xxrmb
https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/...ike-16nisanshktmrck15cmf/16nisanshktmrck15cmf
https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/...ike-16scwa700cmnsschwdsb/16scwa700cmnsschwdsb
https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/...ike-17hjla275mschchtxrmb/17hjla275mschchtxrmb
https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/...ike-16nisanshknsz15xxdsb/16nisanshknsz15xxdsb
That last two is a little higher in cost than I would like but I'm still considering it because it looks pretty decent.
I can't view the site but in general bikes are relatively expensive. Buying a $300 bike will get you a $300 bike.
That means you shouldn't expect it to last too long. I'm of the opinion that spending $300 on a well kept second hand bike will be a more lasting investment.
Especially with hybrid bikes that have suspension etc. There are just too many parts that manufacturers can skimp on, resulting in a poor working bike.
Perhaps some of the riders with more trail experience can give some specific advice but this would be my advice in general.
I'm training for a 3 day, 200 mile charity event my work does every year. I have a GT Avalanche mtn bike, $850 retail. I pedal past a shady guy also on a mtn bike, shirtless, tattoos, smoking a cigarette while riding. He says something to me and I smile and wave as I pass. He catches up to me and says, "Nice bike, how much did it cost?" I'm immediately uncomfortable so I make up some lie that it was a gift so I don't know how much, I didn't want him to know. We're stopped at an intersection now and he guesses $900. I don't confirm but I'm impressed, guy knows his shit. He tells me he found the bike he's on and it folds in half, which I've never seen before so I'm genuinely interested. He tells me he has a few more back at his place if I want to take a look which confirmed my concerns. I make up an excuse and turn around but man, I feel like my bike is a target now. I cut the road I saw him out of my circuit, I didn't finish for another hour and made sure he wasn't following me home to see where I park it
Right, but remember I'm only doing road and light trails. And maybe once or twice a month if that. Don't think it need an expensive bike for that. I went to a second hand store and they didn't have anything good. I can try and check Craigslist.
Edit
Checked Craigslist and saw a Trek 7.3 FX for 300 and a Bridgestone MB4 for 125. Would either be a good choice?
Actually found a couple more that seem like good deals. Found Diamondback Response which from what I've seen online are good bikes?
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Yep those sound good! Just ask the owners how they've maintained their bikes.
You don't have to know anything about it, but their answers should give you an indication of the TLC that they might have received.
Both the Trek and Diamondback are renowned manufacturers, so you should be good! The latter of the two obviously being made for more rugged terrain.
You don't have to know anything about it, but their answers should give you an indication of the TLC that they might have received.
Both the Trek and Diamondback are renowned manufacturers, so you should be good! The latter of the two obviously being made for more rugged terrain.
The boss is coming to the opening of the Giro in Israel!
Time for the return of the prodigal son!
Lance Armstrong to Podcast from the Giro Israel opening stages
Time for the return of the prodigal son!
Lance Armstrong to Podcast from the Giro Israel opening stages
I'm looking to buy a bike this weekend. It'll be used for paved rides on the greenway and some road riding. Right now i'm torn between
2017 Specialized Sirius - https://allstarbikeshop.com/product/specialized-sirrus-236765-1.htm
2018 Giant Escape 2 - https://allstarbikeshop.com/product/giant-escape-2-304541-1.htm
is there a difference between the 2 that would justify spending $35 more for the Giant?
2017 Specialized Sirius - https://allstarbikeshop.com/product/specialized-sirrus-236765-1.htm
2018 Giant Escape 2 - https://allstarbikeshop.com/product/giant-escape-2-304541-1.htm
is there a difference between the 2 that would justify spending $35 more for the Giant?
Don't know how many of you are in your child rearing stages, but mine is finally of age to start getting real bikes instead of striders and other push bikes. We looked long and hard for decent 16inchers and it's either 30lb box store junk, $200 specializeds with coasters or UK imports for $400 that's finally like a normal bike with cheap components. Absolutely sucks what this market is considering this is what you have available to set things up for what would be future riders. We ended up getting a specialized hotrock 16 off Craigslist, I'm gonna give up on the coaster brake but will be adding a rear handlebar brake.
If you're getting this at a store, the one that feels better will be the one to get. I'd be surprised if they don't let you barter down that small of a difference if you're not sure which one you prefer either. If you're ordering this online sight unseen I'd check out nashbar and other stores that frequently offer no-name or low cost brands which will get you a significantly better bang for the buck. Only reason imo to get a known brand would be at a bike shop so that you get continued support from them.
If you're getting this at a store, the one that feels better will be the one to get. I'd be surprised if they don't let you barter down that small of a difference if you're not sure which one you prefer either. If you're ordering this online sight unseen I'd check out nashbar and other stores that frequently offer no-name or low cost brands which will get you a significantly better bang for the buck. Only reason imo to get a known brand would be at a bike shop so that you get continued support from them.
Luckily my kid is still at a point where she needs to learn how to walk first. I've seen the prices for kids bikes... daunting.
As far as buying online or in a shop goes. A known brand is also a bit more inclined to provide proper customer service after an online purchase in my experience.
The $35 won't make much of a difference in this case. Same group set, same price range, both well known brands.
On a totally different topic:
Are we doing a Velo Games group again this year? Giro is starting soon!
Cheap kids bikes tend to be pretty grim, really. The main flaw that most of them have is that they're extremely heavy, which makes them hard to handle for small kids. There are a few good lightweight brands out there but they are not cheap, unfortunately - in the UK, the likes of Frog bikes or Isla bikes are really good, but they sure are expensive.
Been having some shoulder and wrist pain after riding my road bike. It's like a mix of impinged shoulder and carpal tunnel. It goes away with stretches but I've never had the problem before this spring. Bike's unchanged too.
I'm a hand therapist... Could be able to help if you describe the issue in a bit more detail BabyMurloc
Finally cracked the stock rims on my mountain bike, whoops
I would love to ride in this kind of scenery.
The queen of the passes.
I would love to ride in this kind of scenery.
Alright, Dr says I need to excercise more... I used to speed walk, but I got turf toe that is healing real slow so that's out... my old bike was stolen.. I need something new.
Want something that can do back country forest rodes and city bike paths both, so something more of a hybrid or gravel style I think is best.
Looking at the Ghost 6.8AL and the Co-Op ADV 3.1 at REI.
Thoughts? Something else along those lines?
Want something that can do back country forest rodes and city bike paths both, so something more of a hybrid or gravel style I think is best.
Looking at the Ghost 6.8AL and the Co-Op ADV 3.1 at REI.
Thoughts? Something else along those lines?
It comes after cycling and it's a low key but still annoying pain in the wrist and lower forearm. It goes away with general limb mobility exercises and especially by holding my arm straight forward and stretching the palm downwards. While stretching there's a pain in the big thumb muscle, which doesn't happen with the "good" hand.
I think the shoulder is just me trying too hard to do pullups/hanging.
Some of the views are breathtaking. I only take photos when I'm doing social rides, its sometimes nice to stop and take it all in.
It sounds like a median nerve compression.
Elongated pressure on the nerve on a bike will cause that.
If exercise gives relief that's a good sign. You can look up nerve gliding exercises for the median nerve on the internet. Don't overdo it though, there is a fine line between nerve gliding and overstretching tendons and the nerve.
As for preventing it from happening there are a lot of options.
Do you ride with gloves? If yes, do they have padding? Research has shown that riding with non padded gloves gives the best results in preventing median nerve relief (since the padding is often focused on the ulnar nerve).
Altermate your position on your handle bars. As a rule, try and keep your wrists as aligned with your lower arm ad possible. Backward or sideway tilt (palmar or ulnar/ radial deviation) will compress the nerve more.
Weirdly enough doubling wrapping the bar tape works better than padded gloves so that is also an option.
I think the Co-Op will be a bit more versatile. It'll be a bit more zippy in the streets and still be effective on tracks.
The Ghost is a bit more of a purpose built bike. Better suited for forest roads but more sluggish on the roads.
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Fonds is nerve gliding similar to the kind of stuff for helping IT? And more specifically why you shouldn't over roll a sore IT because it will just prolong recovery
Are you referring to the ilio tibial band? If so, it is not entirely the same.
The IT is a ligament that can become inflamed with over or misuse. Stretching it causes minor trauma which increases blood flow, which in turn cleans up the inflammation.
With nerve gliding you're stimulating the nerves to glide through their sheaths increasing the flow of synovial fluid and trying to prevent the build up of scar tissue limiting the movement in the irrittated area. Muscles contract around an irritated or inflamed area disallowing the nerves to move as they normally would, so you have to stimulate them to do so.
As for the rolling of a stone over the sore area... Irregular pressure or external prssure of any kind like massaging etc. often leads to further irritation of the inflammation.
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IT band is almost always best treated by working around the glutes, lower back, hips and knees. It doesn't get tight as such, but the connecting muscles very much do.
Plus, rolling / massaging that thing is virtually pointless. It's an insanely strong / tough bit of meat.
Plus, rolling / massaging that thing is virtually pointless. It's an insanely strong / tough bit of meat.
Yeah the IT band, was on my phone sorry. When I was in PT two years ago my doctor mentioned gliding but I couldn't remember if it was for my IT or for my sciatica.
And Psycho I agree. The IT is like a damn flank steak, just tough as hell. I almost always get relief through a deep roll and stretch on my hip flexors region. Actually rolling the band does nothing other than minor relief
Got a random spike of productivity and washed the hardtail and installed new tubeless summer tyres. Beads popped in without trouble and no sealant was spilled. Felt like Nino Schurter's mechanic.
Now to fight off new bike fever, the local store brand released some really nice and cheap carbon hardtails: http://whitebikes.com/bikes/xc-290-killer-gx-18/
Now to fight off new bike fever, the local store brand released some really nice and cheap carbon hardtails: http://whitebikes.com/bikes/xc-290-killer-gx-18/
I've been looking for a new bike and have spotted this Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc for a smidge over £1,000. Looks pretty decent - full carbon, Shimano 105 and hydro disc brakes. Any feedback from the roadies here as to whether this looks like a good buy, or any other suggestions at around this price bracket? I'm not looking for something that's super-fast, but rather something that I can rack up good miles on in relative comfort without compromising on speed too much.