Haha, my man! And wow that's a nice SL, I love that funky color scheme.Hey, looks familiar!
I had a Garmin Edge 500 for 8 years before getting the Bolt. Big upgrade. No more plugging into the computer after every ride and my Stages doesn't drop data anymore.
Do it man, lets keep this train rolling!Makes me want to go get a photo of my Bolt on my Giant bike...
What am I looking at? Latex inner tubes?
Yeah. That's a Vittoria 26er latex tube in a 53mm Rene Herse EL tire; the road hum is going to be delicious.
There isn't much hassle. You'll want to be a bit extra careful that the initial install is clean; sharp edges in the rim bed will eat through latex tubes more easily than butyl. Basically, you'll want to ensure that your rim taping is in good shape. Latex tubes lose air faster than butyl, but you should be checking and setting tire pressure before every ride anyway. Out on the road, latex is just as durable as butyl.
You might be thinking of tubulars
I don’t know if you specifically cleaned your chain as well (with a chaincleaning tool), but when you wash your bike dirt and grime tends to be pushed further in between the rollers. That will actually make the chain more squeeky.I have a question about chain maintenance, how resilient is factory lube on new chains? So, I changed the chain about two weeks ago. Today I rode through some dirt road so I had to wash my bicycle with some water and soap, including my drive train. Does this means that the factory lube is gone and I have to re-grease it?
I adjusted the speeds after washing it and the drive train was kinda noisy, IDK is this is because the lube is gone or because my speed adjustment was lousy (I'm kinda new to do that on my bike). Ty for your answer!
I don’t know if you specifically cleaned your chain as well (with a chaincleaning tool), but when you wash your bike dirt and grime tends to be pushed further in between the rollers. That will actually make the chain more squeeky.
Degreasing the chain and cleaning it with a chain cleaning tool and then lubing it after its dried is my preferred method.
![]()
I'd recommend against using a chain cleaning tool. Or any kind of degreaser product.
Getting a chain totally spotless is pointless. Wet lubrication - which is what most people ought to be using - will cause a chain to get black near-instantly on the next ride anyway. And a thorough degreasing will often strip the lubricant from the internals of a chain without actually getting the grit out, which can result in a "well lubricated" and "clean" chain that squeaks.
Stripping a chain to bare metal makes sense if you're preparing the chain for a wax bath in anticipation of an Hour Record attempt, but otherwise... eh.
Most wet lubes serve as a competent cleaner for themselves. If a chain is dirty or needs new lube, just hit it with a hefty dose of a good wet lube. Come back a few minutes later with a rag, and wipe off. Easy, thorough, and 98% as clean as a chain has any business being.
I cleaned my chain with a wet rag to remove obvious dirt. Didn't de-grease it, though. Do you think that the factory lube is done for?I don’t know if you specifically cleaned your chain as well (with a chaincleaning tool), but when you wash your bike dirt and grime tends to be pushed further in between the rollers. That will actually make the chain more squeeky.
Degreasing the chain and cleaning it with a chain cleaning tool and then lubing it after its dried is my preferred method.
There are multiple types of wax lubricant. White Lightning uses wax suspended in a solvent, so you drip it from a bottle like typical lubes. The other way to lubricate a chain with wax is to immerse it in a hot wax bath. (Since this lubricates the chain's internals, and since it requires removing the chain anyway, it would be kind of weird to not strip the chain to bare metal first.)Doesn't wax needs to be applied on sparkling clean chains, or that is just for the treatment ones?
If your chain is squeaking, absolutely. If not, I dunno.I cleaner my chain with a wet rag to remove obvious dirt. Didn't de-grease it, though. Do you think that the factory lube is done for?
I've read that as well. I think the instructions recommend cleaning the chain first before applying as well. But I never fussed with it. Just applied and let dry. I did apply more often with a new chain to let the wax saturate but I'm not sure if it made a difference.Doesn't wax needs to be applied on sparkling clean chains, or that is just for the treatment ones?
I think the kitchen ones are actually more concentrated so need watering down...Sorry about asking so many questions, but google doesn't seem to give the answers to this one... Is there any difference to bike specific citric de-greasers to a (much cheaper) kitchen one!? Ty!
Stuff like simple green has to be diluted.Sorry about asking so many questions, but google doesn't seem to give the answers to this one... Is there any difference to bike specific citric de-greasers to a (much cheaper) kitchen one!? Ty!
I was recently told by the tech at Giant bikes that the factory lube is really for preventing rust and keeping the links sealed for shipping and storage and is a bit too thick for an actual chain lube.I have a question about chain maintenance, how resilient is factory lube on new chains? So, I changed the chain about two weeks ago. Today I rode through some dirt road so I had to wash my bicycle with some water and soap, including my drive train. Does this means that the factory lube is gone and I have to re-grease it?
I adjusted the speeds after washing it and the drive train was kinda noisy, IDK is this is because the lube is gone or because my speed adjustment was lousy (I'm kinda new to do that on my bike). Ty for your answer!
Wait, there’s a yellow one now? Now I really need to get employed again so I can get a second one. Well, second and third, I need that red one too. Or detachable faceplates would be best.Hey, looks familiar!
![]()
I had a Garmin Edge 500 for 8 years before getting the Bolt. Big upgrade. No more plugging into the computer after every ride and my Stages doesn't drop data anymore.
The important thing is where/how you actually sit on the saddle. Obviously this is a complex issue, because you might have a whole bunch of different ways of sitting on any given saddle, and different ways of sitting on different saddles. And height and tilt of saddles can be complicated as well, not just fore-aft.What do you do when you go for a saddle swap but the new one is longer? My fit measurements are based off the saddle nose as it relates to the bottom bracket. Is it normal to just do the same with the new one or should I adjust for for the difference?
So I was riding a woman’s saddle from Ergon and they just released the men’s version. As far as I can tell the main difference is the relief channel is shaped slightly different. Everything else looks the same except for maybe a hair difference in height.The important thing is where/how you actually sit on the saddle. Obviously this is a complex issue, because you might have a whole bunch of different ways of sitting on any given saddle, and different ways of sitting on different saddles. And height and tilt of saddles can be complicated as well, not just fore-aft.
Wankers are at it again...
![]()
Buried just under the surface. Ignore the fucking fact that it could just as easily be a horse or a kid that steps on one.
Fucking hell. Have you reported this to the police?Wankers are at it again...
![]()
Buried just under the surface. Ignore the fucking fact that it could just as easily be a horse or a kid that steps on one.
They do this with the intention to hurt normal cyclist? Or is it some stupid ploy to prevent illegal offroad motorbiking? Whoever does this must not think of the consequences of their actions, geez.Yeah, though it's happened so many times before that we're not expecting anything.
I think you do it on the Garmin connect website and it syncs it up...Also, it looks like need to adjust the HR zones on my Garmin... how do i do that!?
![]()
You can do that over the connect app, just select your device and then user settings, after that you can select heart rate zones and set custom zones if you want., but this looks like the HR zones of Strava those can be set in the strava settings.Also, it looks like need to adjust the HR zones on my Garmin... how do i do that!?
![]()