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I was leaning towards Express, but then I noticed it misses the Keystone feature (perspective distortion correction), and since I mostly do architeture photography is quite a deal breaker.
Thanks everyone for the inputs, I'm probably gonna try Express these week (mountain holiday so no perspective lines to fix!) and decide wheter to buy Pro.
If you want a good crop sensor mirrorless system with an actual lens line up you go Fuji. Not everything gets stabilization, but you can work around that by getting an X-H1.
so went to a store ho try out the XT30 and XT3 and man I am so conflicted.
ideally I want the xt30 due to its size and cost, but the weather sealing and extra video options of the xt3 are really appealing.
just how reliable are fujifilm cameras like the cheaper xt30 hold up in light rain? My old Nikon camera was not weatherproof and held up fine in torrential rain.
X-T3 all day everyday for me, I don't like the X-T30's size. I have vertical grips on all of my mirrorless cameras, they just feel too dainty in my hands.
so went to a store ho try out the XT30 and XT3 and man I am so conflicted.
ideally I want the xt30 due to its size and cost, but the weather sealing and extra video options of the xt3 are really appealing.
just how reliable are fujifilm cameras like the cheaper xt30 hold up in light rain? My old Nikon camera was not weatherproof and held up fine in torrential rain.
50mm f/1.2, 85mm f/1.2, and 35mm f/1.8 not fast? Or are you talking about the EF-M mount? If looking at mirrorless APS-C, yeah, you should prioritize Fuji over other brands. They have serious lenses and bodies.
The main difference maker here is actually two (three if WR is important) fold IMO. Two card slots allow massive flexibility, and the 3 way tilting LCD allows photography that simply isn't possible otherwise.
so went to a store ho try out the XT30 and XT3 and man I am so conflicted.
ideally I want the xt30 due to its size and cost, but the weather sealing and extra video options of the xt3 are really appealing.
just how reliable are fujifilm cameras like the cheaper xt30 hold up in light rain? My old Nikon camera was not weatherproof and held up fine in torrential rain.
I feel like Lightroom Classic is a good bit more responsive since the latest update. Looks like this GPU acceleration may actually work to some degree!
Sorry yeah, EF-M. I know you can convert other EF lenses but that seems a bit self defeating given I'm starting from scratch.
Some further research and it seems like Fuji is almost a no-brainer for a mid range mirrorless. Ive played with an a6400 but I absolutely hate the handling.
I'm also really intrigued by Olympus but low light will be a large part of my usage so I'm not sure micro 4/3 fits the bill.
Low light turns into getting a used A7RII, files are way cleaner and easier to work with than anything Fuji can produce, I have used both extensively with this use case. I got an A7RIII to use with my A7RII to stop using Fuji for indoor event work.
I decided I wanted to get a mirrorless APS-C camera and went and looked at the lens lineups and said "Oh, I guess I"m getting a Fuji."
m4/3rds system has tons of lenses but I feel like the image quality hit would be hard for me after shooting APS-C for 12 years or however long. I actually like some of the EOS-M cameras but the lens selection is a joke. And then full frame is too bulky and critically too expensive for me, I want to go lighter not heavier and I don't feel like spending a ton on a second camera. I mainly shoot outdoors and then when I'm taking pictures of the kids inside the ISO performance of APS-C is good enough for me.
I bit the bullet and bought the photography plan with lightroom classic and photoshop.
Coming from lightroom 6 lightroom classic is worlds faster.
m4/3 VS aspc isn't going to be that big of a difference.
I already hate the noise on APS-C, I had no interest in M43 after I really started doing the research on it. I think honestly it's best for studio work when you have full control over the amount of light you can drop on a subject. Indoor event work for a college system is a hell no to me though.
Considering there isn't much of a price difference and APS-C already gets you a lot of the size/weight savings, I think the 1-stop advantage is quite significant, not to mention the dramatically superior C-AF performance in modern Fuji and Sony bodies.
Not to say some won't prefer M43 for their uses, but I would be hard pressed to recommend it over APS-C for those put off by the size, weight, and price of fill frame gear.
i think the vast majority of people aren't pixel peepers so noise isn't going to be an issue for them. I have wonderful pictures of my wife, kids and pets taken at high iso that are just fine.
i just found, at least back then, olympus lens selection worlds better and their lenses were amazingly sharp across the frame. but i haven't paid attention to that space in a long time.
i just found, at least back then, olympus lens selection worlds better and their lenses were amazingly sharp across the frame. but i haven't paid attention to that space in a long time.
Whenever I look at m43rds samples, they always seem just a hair off the equivalent apsc camera in terms of 1:1 perceptual resolution. But more importantly there doesn't seem to be any real advantage to the format besides less rolling shutter maybe? I don't shoot wildlife but I do shoot at wide angles.
Also just to be frank I'm trying to move to a system with a future.
Also just to be frank I'm trying to move to a system with a future.
The vast majority of people are taking pictures with their smartphones and don't really care much about the results beyond what they are getting... i wouldn't recommend any ILC to most people, since it will probably just be frustrating and end up being left at home like the millions of cheap entry-level DSLRs out there.
Even M43 lenses are getting sizeable these days. The 10-25 1.7 is pretty sizable, not to mention their bodies are probably the same size as my A7RIII if you take away the grip. The size advantage at this point are just in primes. If you want less expensive it's fine and I've seen some great stuff from some of their bodies, it's just not really speaking to me at this point. For shoots I've just been using the Sony stuff and if I need something lighter to bring onto a shoot for stills work I can just grab my Fuji bag or take 15 to 20 minutes out of a shoot to focus on some photography work with the Sony. If you want great 4K and 4K60 and such then that's where M43 has a benefit, though I keep forgetting that my X-T3 can do 4K60.
captive prints, he ain't most people but I get what you mean.
Outside of some stuff I've seen from very capable people I tend to not like M43 bokeh. Joe Edelman does great work on his Olympus set up, but him and I do two very completely different types of photography.
Yep, you can't beat physics. I'd wager an "equivalent" 20-50mm f/3.4 lens for a full frame sensor could be made with almost the same size and weight.
To off set the smaller sensor, they need to make really large-opening apertures, which of course means bigger and heavier lenses, even if the hole in the back end can be smaller.
That thing being slower than the 24-70 2.8 and only marginally smaller is very disconcerting. I mean yeah it's wider, but damn It's a slightly faster, but bigger Fuji 16-55.
obviously when we're referring to people in this thread, we mean people looking for ILC.
which is is funny because most people using ILC or their cell phone don't print their pictures sit forever only occasionally being looked at. But when you print those photos, noise is non issue at 4x6 & 8x10. Its only when you have either super noisy image or printing very large(30+ inches on the long edge) that noise even becomes visible in print.
Anyway i mostly find disucssions about noise to be superflous. Unless the camera is producing chroma noise, the noise these days looks like a very nice fine film grain.
speaking of printing, not sure if i ever posted this, but it would have been on the old site. But i got this photo printed on metal. 24x72
One by Billy York, on Flickrtechnically the largest print i've done by edge lengh, but not by surface area.
this print was taken with medium format velvia film shot at iso 35. You cant even see the grain unless you're a foot away.
obviously when we're referring to people in this thread, we mean people looking for ILC.
which is is funny because most people using ILC or their cell phone don't print their pictures sit forever only occasionally being looked at. But when you print those photos, noise is non issue at 4x6 & 8x10. Its only when you have either super noisy image or printing very large(30+ inches on the long edge) that noise even becomes visible in print.
Anyway i mostly find disucssions about noise to be superflous. Unless the camera is producing chroma noise, the noise these days looks like a very nice fine film grain.
speaking of printing, not sure if i ever posted this, but it would have been on the old site. But i got this photo printed on metal. 24x72
technically the largest print i've done by edge lengh, but not by surface area.
this print was taken with medium format velvia film shot at iso 35. You cant even see the grain unless you're a foot away.
I bet that looks great in person. I do want to start printing more though, I have a couple of prints, but not a lot. Wouldn't even know where to begin at this point.
Not necessarily. A lot of people would be much better off with a point and shoot since they might actually use it.
I do most of my viewing on high resolution screens of varying sizes, but do occasionally print and share photos on 8 x 10 or 13 x 19 sizes.
That's rather subjective. Sometimes the noise can really affect a picture. Like, say, a dark-lit human subject's face taken at high ISO and had the shadows boosted in post. A lot of that times, they will turn into a mess even on full frame.
I think M43 is just very niche. Being ILC, and considering the price for a good body and some lenses, it's obviously for the enthusiast photographer who will want to know how to control their settings. They also obviously care somewhat about image quality. But they also value a small and light package even if that comes at a huge disadvantage in terms of maximum effective aperture with equivalency applied. At the same time, the IBIS in modern M43 cameras is second to none thanks to its smaller sensor size, so you can handhold shots at very low shutter speeds.
Basically, I think it's great for people who want to take shots much like the one you posted. You can travel light to awesome locations and easily get great shots of still subjects even in low light without a tripod thanks to the stability. It's just not great for a lot of other purposes, like action, or even slightly mobile subjects in low-light.
I need some help. I just got the Atomos Ninja V. Is the screen supposed to look so warm? It worries me. I'm packing it up to return it if so. I'm not sure hearing that fan that it'll work for me after all. Does it not just record exactly what is being passed to it on the camera even without any luts? I'm confused.
Edit: I've packed it back up because I'm feeling like I'm going to return it. I liked the idea of getting past the record limit on my X-T3 and being able to replace my ElGato HD60 which I hate using. Everything told me it was easy but the fan and the yellow screen — like why is is so warm? Is it recording that warm? I couldn't change the codec to check without registering it and it scares me too much to just trust it won't record warm. Any advice appreciated. Otherwise I hate waiting to return things so I'll probably ship it out tomorrow.
Would love recommendations to replacement my HD60 that aren't $700. I thought it would benefit my camera setup but really I just liked the idea of recording gameplay with it. It just seems to run too hot though for long sessions. I don't know. I don't trust it. Any advice still welcome. I just want to see exactly what I'm seeing through my camera and from my games. Both the gameplay and camera footage looked really red/yellow/orangey
Edit: I've packed it back up because I'm feeling like I'm going to return it. I liked the idea of getting past the record limit on my X-T3 and being able to replace my ElGato HD60 which I hate using. Everything told me it was easy but the fan and the yellow screen — like why is is so warm? Is it recording that warm? I couldn't change the codec to check without registering it and it scares me too much to just trust it won't record warm. Any advice appreciated. Otherwise I hate waiting to return things so I'll probably ship it out tomorrow.
Would love recommendations to replacement my HD60 that aren't $700. I thought it would benefit my camera setup but really I just liked the idea of recording gameplay with it. It just seems to run too hot though for long sessions. I don't know. I don't trust it. Any advice still welcome. I just want to see exactly what I'm seeing through my camera and from my games. Both the gameplay and camera footage looked really red/yellow/orangey
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I got the 28-75 Tamron this week along with some new Peak Design accessories and a Lowepro lens case.
Hopefully my GAS is abated for a little while, but I'm already looking at the 17-28 or a wide prime.
Hopefully my GAS is abated for a little while, but I'm already looking at the 17-28 or a wide prime.
A7RIII seems to have kept up pretty well with wheelchair basketball. A7RII was probably not responsive too well for the wide shots though. I'll know more later when I look at the files on a monitor.
Edit:
Ok so if the screen on the A7III is worse than what's on the A7RII then I don't want it, it's hard enough knowing what's in focus on the RII, but if the resolution is worse than the A7III must be a disaster unless it's all of a sudden less of a problem with 24mp images.
Edit:
Ok so if the screen on the A7III is worse than what's on the A7RII then I don't want it, it's hard enough knowing what's in focus on the RII, but if the resolution is worse than the A7III must be a disaster unless it's all of a sudden less of a problem with 24mp images.
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Okay found 4 good deals on Fuji XT30 that I want to go for:
Fujifilm X-T30 Mirrorless Camera with XC15-45mm and 50-230mm Lenses - £709.10
Fujifilm X-T30 Mirrorless Camera with XF18-55mm Lens - £889.10
Fujifilm X-T30 Mirrorless Camera with XC15-45mm Lens & 35mm f/2 - £951.20
Fujifilm X-T30 Mirrorless Camera with XC15-45mm &50-230mm & 5mm f/2 Lenses - £1041.20
I wish to get the 18-55 and the 35mm but the dilemma is my budget is £1000 max, I could sell some of the other lenses to get some money back but these 4 options look really tempting, which one should I go for first?
My gut says go with 18-55 as that will be the more expensive lens to purchase down the line, what do you think?
Fujifilm X-T30 Mirrorless Camera with XC15-45mm and 50-230mm Lenses - £709.10
Fujifilm X-T30 Mirrorless Camera with XF18-55mm Lens - £889.10
Fujifilm X-T30 Mirrorless Camera with XC15-45mm Lens & 35mm f/2 - £951.20
Fujifilm X-T30 Mirrorless Camera with XC15-45mm &50-230mm & 5mm f/2 Lenses - £1041.20
I wish to get the 18-55 and the 35mm but the dilemma is my budget is £1000 max, I could sell some of the other lenses to get some money back but these 4 options look really tempting, which one should I go for first?
My gut says go with 18-55 as that will be the more expensive lens to purchase down the line, what do you think?
Your gut's right imo. The XC will not satisfy you in the long run. The XF is a very capable zoom for a lot of purposes and bright enough.
You can add good primes for your most needed focal lengths later if you want anyway.
Get an X-T2 and some good glass. I don't even consider the 18-55 to be good glass, just useable.
Wait so hold up.
I just found out that the Fuji 23mm 1.4 straight up has a manual focus ring, to include focus scale and... hard stops?
Is it just a fancier fly by wire, or does it actually apply a clutch and essentially turn it into a native manual focus lens?
If the 56mm did this I'd buy it in a heartbeat!
I just found out that the Fuji 23mm 1.4 straight up has a manual focus ring, to include focus scale and... hard stops?
Is it just a fancier fly by wire, or does it actually apply a clutch and essentially turn it into a native manual focus lens?
If the 56mm did this I'd buy it in a heartbeat!
I believe the 23mm f/1.4 and the 16mm f/1.4 both use a clutch, but they are still focus by wire. Also Viltrox is bringing a 23mm f/1.4, 33mm f/1.4 and a 56mm f/1.4 for Fuji X...those might be of note:
Those are some fantastically shitty looking lenses... Hopefully those are really early in production.
I already have the 90F2 so there's most likely no selling me on that lens.
Yeah I am not really interested in any of these, but hopefully Fuji will refresh the 1.4 lenses and will price them cheaper if they get this competition. I really want the 56 1.2, and aside from that I want the 50-140 w/ the 1.4x converter and I will be set.
Also look at the 90. We do two very different types of street photography, but the 90 is god tier.
Yes, that's something I have to figure out. Definitely interested in that lens.
I posted the photos over in the photo thread, but basically the 7Artisans 60mm macro is some *kick ass* value, with some very workable compromises. Great quality, but requires a slight bit more of being aware of the lens.
I cannot believe how much more responsive and snappy Lightroom is since the last update that added more robust GPU support. It's night and day for my machine and it finally feels like a decent piece of software again.
I've cleaned a DSLR sensor with a swab in the past. It wasn't hard, just be gentle and follow the instructions.
That said, I've only had to do that one time in over a decade, the rest of the time I'd just use a rocket blower. Or with my newer cameras the self cleaning ultrasonic process the camera does seems to take care of most things.
Actually, the most annoying cleaning I've done recently was when I had my lens off to switch and my 5 year old stuck a dirty finger in and touched the mirror. Ugh.
That said, I've only had to do that one time in over a decade, the rest of the time I'd just use a rocket blower. Or with my newer cameras the self cleaning ultrasonic process the camera does seems to take care of most things.
Actually, the most annoying cleaning I've done recently was when I had my lens off to switch and my 5 year old stuck a dirty finger in and touched the mirror. Ugh.
They came out with these and they work wonders.
I can vouch for these.
Yup, I've had to swab a few sensors in my time. Pretty easy, just blow everything out first, then lightly brush, then swab.