It should also be both the sharpest lens and the one with the creammist bokeh that I'll have, what I'm looking forward to see for myself.
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It should also be both the sharpest lens and the one with the creammist bokeh that I'll have, what I'm looking forward to see for myself.
Sharp really only starts at 2.8, just FYI. f/2 is definitely usable, just know it's a softer look.
Certainly haven't seen any glitchiness in the real-time Eye AF. The new subject tracking tech isn't 100% perfect, but it's pretty incredible, too.
Looks like the third-gen A7 bodies will also be getting animal eye AF with this update! Looking forward to seeing impressions on that. The A9 won't get it for a couple more months.
Any thoughts on the Pixma Pro 100? I know you can get it for as low as $50 sometimes, but the fact that it comes with a $50 pack of big paper is a big draw for me.
I've heard people will straight up buy a new printer when their ink runs out because these deals are cheaper than replacing the full ink bay.
https://www.canonwatch.com/hot-deal-canon-pixma-pro-100-professional-photo-printer-79-99-reg-399/
I've heard people will straight up buy a new printer when their ink runs out because these deals are cheaper than replacing the full ink bay.
https://www.canonwatch.com/hot-deal-canon-pixma-pro-100-professional-photo-printer-79-99-reg-399/
I own the Pixma Pro 10-S, print quality is real good, as is the official Canon paper. The ink costs are the only downside, costs me over £100 to replace the 10 cartridges. (they are cheaper if bought in a bundle), and it can chew through the Canon chroma optimizer very quickly.
Pixma Pro is awesome once you get it calibrated.
I honestly find it easier to open up the photos on my phone and print from there for brightness that matches what I expect; for some reason Lightroom and Photoshop print too dark, by about a stop.
Ink isn't too bad for 100, I think if you buy the whole set it's around $50.
Yeah, worth doing some small prints to test the brightness. Default settings tend to be overly dark.
I've used it for a few hundred prints of various sizes since getting it last year and it's fantastic. Best prints I've ever made or had made. Definitely look professional grade to me.
How hard is it to do this rebate? My only hurdle is figuring out where the fuck I'm putting this thing. I'd have to make room on my work desk or something. Or sleep on it.
Rebate was easy. Took like 6 weeks to arrive for me, but my sister who also purchased one got hers in around 2 weeks.
If it's a rebate make sure you quadruple read the fine print... For me they wanted basically the entire panel that the barcode was on... And I couldn't provide that by the time I came around to fill out the rebate paperwork.
what do people use for raw processing? I'm not entirely happy with Lightroom's results for Fuji's RAW files vs what I get out of the camera's processor. Though this could just be user error on my end.
I edit off of Lightroom. People also say to use Capture One, but I honestly hate the interface for it.
LR sucks ass for Fuji RAF files, Capture One is much, much better. Most of the problem with LR is letting it do ANY sharpening for you. Don't let it. Do your sharpening outside of Lightroom. If you have the LR/PS bundle, do your edits in LR, make sure sharpening slider is at 0, edit in PS, run an unsharp mask, and then export to JPEG from PS.
That being said, I hate Capture One so much that a plus in my column for moving from Fuji to Sony was the ability to use Lightroom in my workflow.
So pretty much I never have a problem editing RAF's in LR because I never touch the sharpening slider? Just checked and LR seems to default at 40 I think, it's never really bothered me.
No, 40 is WAYYYYYY too much. Max 15 before you start to see really nasty effects from the Adobe demosaicing engine. I also shoot a lot more foliage than you do which is where it rears its head the hardest.
I fucked around and stuff starts to look like dog shit at 150. Also yeah I don't do that much foliage work on my Fuji's. I guess this just means that the A7RII will be my hiking camera then since it has definitely been my favorite Central Park camera to date.
yeah this explains a lot since I was shooting cherry blossoms in Japan.
I may mess with C1 some tonight to see if I can figure out that flow.
Yeah I never touch sharpening, and if I ever did, I could probably just run it through that AI engine thing.
I tested that feature and it's woefully slow compared to a simple unsharp mask.
For daytime exposures I let Fuji film sims do their thing, for night shots and low light shots I use CaptureOne. I haven't had any issues with CaptureOne interface, typically I only boost exposure and play around with levels and clarity, preset sharpening settings typically look great to me, and I don't do much noise reduction...in fact C1's noise reduction is the only thing I don't like.
stuck on linux this month but here it is: https://support.d-imaging.sony.co.jp/support/ilc/account/ilce7m3/en/win.html
I'm curious if it works on birds at all. I'd be highly suspect that they only added cats and dogs to the machine learning for this first iteration.
This is a very good question. Some bird eyes get very hard to see because they match the bird color. Stuff like owls might be possible because their eyes are huge, but swans and geese might be difficult.
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Youtube/Birds doesn't work.
This guy tested on several animals:
https://www.dpreview.com/members/7269532923/galleries
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Fuji dropped a timetable of "3 years" in their latest interview for machine learning AF. fuuuuuuuuuuuu
I have a ton of geese and cormorants around to test on, looking forward to it.
What even could the X-T4 add to make it worth getting over an X-T3 at this point?
Full time Eye AF would drive me crazy and I would definitely turn that off.
Bind a button to turn off face detect priority in AF. Not sure why you would ever want face detection but not eye detection, and that's all this update did: it made the AF automatically try to go for the eye when face detect AF is enabled.
I guess let me be more specific. I typically use back button AF via AF-ON, and have the center "ok" button (inside the rotating wheel) as my EyeAF button. That way I can use "backbutton" EyeAF when I want to, and normal backbutton AF with the AF-ON button when I don't.
Not sure I'd even want to change that mapping based on this update.
Like I see it, but I can more than survive with three batteries in the grip. I'd need something monumental get me to trade up from the X-T3.
Ahh, OK. Yeah, luckily you can turn Face Priority in AF off and still have Eye AF bound to a specific key to trigger it just when you want to.
Got it. Sounds like all I really stand to gain from this FW is the animal version of EyeAF. It's a bummer that you have to select Human or Animal in the menu instead of it being auto-sensing, guessing that's a limitation of the cpu.
Yeah, I figured that would be the limitation. Is it possible to bind the selection to the Function menu or a custom key?
I like the discreteness of it and most of my photos in general are snapshots. That lens is amazing, Ricoh files are easier to process since they come out as DNGs. For Fuji RAF's I need to do the extra step of putting them through Iradient X-Transformer. Only thing holding me back is no built in OVF like the old film GRs has. It's personal reasons entirely. Both are amazing cameras.