Lightroom Classic got a new slider.
https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/help/whats-new/2019-3.html#texture
In my limited testing today, the result is much more pleasing them the clarity slider, but really need to limit it to no more than +30
In my limited testing today, the result is much more pleasing them the clarity slider, but really need to limit it to no more than +30
Goodness, thanks for all this.If you are willing to invest in a scanner, the RZ67 Pro II would be a very nice camera for landscape work if you can be bothered to lug it around. You didn't mention what finder the camera has. The waist-level finder has no metering, so if you want metering in-camera you'd need the AE prism finder or more rare chimney finder. You could get a handheld meter, use a phone app, or use your digital camera to meter instead.
Film-wise, the costs of purchasing film and getting it developed depends on where you are. It is cheaper to develop at home, and developing black and white film is quite easy. Colour and Black & White negative films are easier to shoot as they can tolerate overexposure, while Slide requires precise exposures.
On a 6x7 camera, you are getting 10 exposures from a roll of 120 format film.
If you end up shooting a bunch of film, I'd recommend getting a used or refurbished Epson V700, V750 or V800 scanner, as the cost of having the lab scan your film adds up.
For post-processing your scans, a Lightroom plugin called Negative Lab Pro is quite useful for automatic colour correction.
Some film prices from B&H for reference:
For 120 format Kodak films are only sold in 5-packs, while Ilford films and Fujichromes are sold individually as well.
Colour Negative:
Kodak Ektar 100 - 5-pack $27.99 which is about $5.60 per roll
Kodak Portra 400 - 5-pack $35.95 which is about $7.20 per roll
Fujicolor PRO 400H - 5-pack $38.94 which is about $7.79 per roll
Black & White:
Kodak T-Max 100 - 5-pack $32.95 which is about $6.60 per roll
Kodak T-Max 400 - 5-pack $32.45 which is about $6.50 per roll
Kodak Tri-X 400 - 5-pack $30.95 which is about $6.19 per roll
Ilford Delta 100 - $5.99
Ilford Delta 400 - $6.19
Ilford Delta 3200 - $6.49
Ilford HP5+ - $5.69
Ilford FP4+ - $5.49
Ilford Pan F - $6.09
Slide:
Fujichrome Velvia 50 - $9.59 or 5-pack $46.95
Fujichrome Velvia 100 - $9.29 or 5-pack $44.95
Fujichrome Provia 100F - $8.99 or 5-pack $43.95
I finally upgraded to a full-frame Nikon! Now I just need some Nikon AF lenses...
Been shooting with my Z7 and the Z 50mm lens. What a fucking stellar combo. 100% crops are unreal.
Absolutely fucking this.Once you go 40+ megapixels, you can't go back. Developing them is so fun!
Glad you enjoy it. I almost got a Z camera, but I don't mind the change.Been shooting art with my Z7 and the Z 50mm lens today. What a fucking stellar combo. 100% crops are unreal.
If you want a sneak peek into my life and talking to my wife about my purchases, the first 10 seconds of Manny's 85 RF video is spot on.
"Does it, like, edit the photos for you?"
"no..."
You have a dog, just give it to him as a toy.I had a quiet morning around the house and finally had some good weather and good light to really play with my Rokkor 135/2.8 and that lens just ain't for me. Probably gonna be kind of tough to sell it, but it was cheap. Hopefully I can find it a good home.
220 film is not made anymore. It was only ever used by professional photographers, as 220 film wasn't any cheaper than 120. 220 film is functionally the same as 120 film, there's just twice as much of it per roll. I don't know the specifics of the RZ67 backs, but according to the manual (PDF warning) there is a locking mechanism on the film back to ensure correct frame spacing. You should be able to shoot 120 film just fine in your 220 back, but when you have shot your 10 exposures and wish to unload the film you would need to perform the process outlined on page 6, step 3 in the manual in order to completely wind up the film onto the takeup spool.Goodness, thanks for all this.
For what it's worth, he said he thinks it has a 220 back on it. Not sure if that changes much of anything, or if that's harder to come by vs 120. No clue on the viewfinder, but I'm making an assumption that if I get an analog MF camera, I'll meter it myself (or with my MILC).
Awesome, thanks. I looked it up, it's definitely the pop up viewfinder by the way. He mentioned that the image is upside down as you're composing, sounds trippy.220 film is not made anymore. It was only ever used by professional photographers, as 220 film wasn't any cheaper than 120. 220 film is functionally the same as 120 film, there's just twice as much of it per roll. I don't know the specifics of the RZ67 backs, but according to the manual (PDF warning) there is a locking mechanism on the film back to ensure correct frame spacing. You should be able to shoot 120 film just fine in your 220 back, but when you have shot your 10 exposures and wish to unload the film you would need to perform the process outlined on page 6, step 3 in the manual in order to completely wind up the film onto the takeup spool.
Cool, waist-level finders are fun! The viewfinder image shouldn't be upside down, but the left and right directions are reversed.Awesome, thanks. I looked it up, it's definitely the pop up viewfinder by the way. He mentioned that the image is upside down as you're composing, sounds trippy.
If you want a sneak peek into my life and talking to my wife about my purchases, the first 10 seconds of Manny's 85 RF video is spot on.
"Does it, like, edit the photos for you?"
"no..."
I'm not expecting any type of body discount on something like the 85 1.2. I even checked on Amazon since they tend to offer a bundle with the 24-70GM and that's not a bundle or a discount, they just slap an additional $2200 on the deal. Bundles usually are just a kit lens only option unless it's Fuji being aggressive with the GFX stuff or the F2 lenses for X mount.The 85 f/1.2 is a luxury item though, he's right on that. Even the EF version is $1849 now, that lens was always somewhat exotic. I agree it's a bit too much for the RF, but I'd expect instant rebates eventually plus body/kit discounts down the line. It's still pretty exotic glass.
Menelaus while he tries to explain that to his wife:Guy: take my free camera!
Me: /looks on ebay at $5000 digital backs
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Phase-One-...cuiOr:sc:UPSGround!75244!US!-1&frcectupt=true
I mean....at that point might as well get into Fuji GF. The lenses are amazing...Guy: take my free camera!
Me: /looks on ebay at $5000 digital backs
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Phase-One-...cuiOr:sc:UPSGround!75244!US!-1&frcectupt=true
I would honestly contemplate trading in my X mount system for this if I thought it would knock the price down enough.I mean....at that point might as well get into Fuji GF. The lenses are amazing...
I'm just kidding about the digital back, I would much rather get the Fuji system insteadI mean....at that point might as well get into Fuji GF. The lenses are amazing...
We all would. To be honest full frame E mount and GFX is probably cream of the crop of image quality for landscape and portraits. I wouldn't touch medium format film personally, but I'm probably the only person on here that wants nothing to do with film.I'm just kidding about the digital back, I would much rather get the Fuji system instead
Yeah issue is, if you wanna use the GF for events, it probably won't be a good fit, at least not with the current gen bodies. I would say these are fit for just landscape for now, but gen 2, gen 3 with better AF and faster processing in general, more general use for sure.I would honestly contemplate trading in my X mount system for this if I thought it would knock the price down enough.
Yeah I'm usually full frame for events mostly though unless it's outside and I wouldn't mind. Though my X-T3 is my grab and go video light weight bag. Granted the Sony could replace it, but honestly I'm probably not trading it. Now my Nikons? Who knows. Something tells me I'd try to trade them plus the glass and just weep at what I'd still have to spend. The GFX stuff isn't cheap not to mention in case I ever need the stuff I don't have it. I guess I'm just rather picky with what I opt to trade in. I keep viable stuff for the most part. I still have my X-T2 as a back up camera, which I used when my X-T3 was at Fujifilm in Jersey.Yeah issue is, if you wanna use the GF for events, it probably won't be a good fit, at least not with the current gen bodies. I would say these are fit for just landscape for now, but gen 2, gen 3 with better AF and faster processing in general, more general use for sure.
In general, there's very, very, VERY little reason to consider the GFX over the A7R3 right now in terms of total value to IQ.Yeah issue is, if you wanna use the GF for events, it probably won't be a good fit, at least not with the current gen bodies. I would say these are fit for just landscape for now, but gen 2, gen 3 with better AF and faster processing in general, more general use for sure.
A7R3 is pretty much the closest I'm getting to a Nikon D4 speed wise with D810 image quality. I want something new to come out to drop that price already. I'm either getting that and trading in my R2 for an A7III or just keep both, but I can't see myself shooting an event on two 42mp cameras.In general, there's very, very, VERY little reason to consider the GFX over the A7R3 right now in terms of total value to IQ.
The Fuji GFX 50R doesnt have a MAPS dial so there's that.In general, there's very, very, VERY little reason to consider the GFX over the A7R3 right now in terms of total value to IQ.
I'd honestly just get the 50S. The grip on the R is sort of a no no to me.
Yeah, I think newbs (with money) make that mistake and expect a night and day difference (using the same skillset) and then get disappointed and be like "why MF sucks bro?". I almost laughed out loud at that one dude's disappointment in the 100 - 200mm lens at FM, which had horizontal curvature at 200mm (fixed in software) but he was like "I expect better optics". Reminded me why I typically avoid FM. It's full of gear junkies with no clue.In general, there's very, very, VERY little reason to consider the GFX over the A7R3 right now in terms of total value to IQ.
Medium Format is definitely something more deliberate. I'm pretty sure I like FM more than I'd like DPR at the very least. I'm mostly fine on FM minus that one thread where Fuji users act like Sony is a system that's not worth shooting.Yeah, I think newbs (with money) make that mistake and expect a night and day difference (using the same skillset) and then get disappointed and be like "why MF sucks bro?". I almost laughed out loud at that one dude's disappointment in the 100 - 200mm lens at FM, which had horizontal curvature at 200mm (fixed in software) but he was like "I expect better optics". Reminded me why I typically avoid FM. It's full of gear junkies with no clue.
I'd definitely recommend Sony over Fuji GFX to all if that's the primary system you're gonna shoot. GFX can be your secondary camera, and also you need to be pretty patient and savvy on learning a new skill set.
Yeah the whole fanboy thing makes no sense to me at this point. I might have started as a Nikon fanboy and got conned a bit into being a Fuji fanboy, but I think at this point it's just up to the photographer to make his shit work for him. There are things I have no urge to buy mainly because I don't see the benefit of doing so. It really just turns into a discussion of "What do I gain from this?" since this stuff isn't cheap.Yeah DPR is pure fanboy drivel, I mean it's good when I search specific issues on google and DPR topics come up in search results with solutions. FM users just rub me the wrong way in a different way. I stay away from the fanboy stuff/topics and stick to thing I am interested in like lens reviews.
Elitism and cult mentality. Drop enough dough on a specific brand and you'll go crazy. Not to mention for some odd reason photographers are really snobby. Granted I probably fall into that as well around my coworkers whom aren't as photo centric as I am.DPR is honestly one of the worst forums I've ever seen in terms of hobbyist specific sites. I don't know why people get so crazy about cameras, it's 900 times worse than console wars for some reason.
I've decided to say fuck it and buy a mirrorless. I have to enjoy the freedom of being single while it lasts :)
Why I'm doing this:
- I really want an EVF;
- I really want more area to put the focus point while doing portraits since I don't like to focus and recompose.
- Those RF lenses are a thing of beauty;
- Eye AF is a nice bonus, even if it's far from perfect on the Canon side.
I still don't know if I'll get the EOS R or the EOS RP. As far as image quality goes, the 6D MKII is more than enough for me so the RP seems like a good choice. The R has far greater dynamic range but that's not something that I actually use a lot. The noise at high ISO without recovering shadows is not that different, and that is what I care the most.
Fake edit: After reading what I wrote there isn't much reason to get the R over the RP. Any thoughts? I have already decided not to change systems.
Don't touch the RP. I'd honestly also say don't touch the R either since it's the only new release lacking even an AF joystick, but don't listen to me. If you can rent one and see how you like the interface. I honestly think Canon released the worst cameras. Great lenses mediocre bodies.I've decided to say fuck it and buy a mirrorless. I have to enjoy the freedom of being single while it lasts :)
Why I'm doing this:
- I really want an EVF;
- I really want more area to put the focus point while doing portraits since I don't like to focus and recompose.
- Those RF lenses are a thing of beauty;
- Eye AF is a nice bonus, even if it's far from perfect on the Canon side.
I still don't know if I'll get the EOS R or the EOS RP. As far as image quality goes, the 6D MKII is more than enough for me so the RP seems like a good choice. The R has far greater dynamic range but that's not something that I actually use a lot. The noise at high ISO without recovering shadows is not that different, and that is what I care the most.
Fake edit: After reading what I wrote there isn't much reason to get the R over the RP. Any thoughts? I have already decided not to change systems.
I actually disagree here.Don't touch the RP. I'd honestly also say don't touch the R either since it's the only new release lacking even an AF joystick, but don't listen to me. If you can rent one and see how you like the interface. I honestly think Canon released the worst cameras. Great lenses mediocre bodies.
I'm just kidding about the digital back, I would much rather get the Fuji system instead
Canon Has never excited me but they make competent cameras. I'm not blowing wads of cash on "competent" though.I actually disagree here.
1) Both the RP and R are just temporary bodies, you'll end up with another R-type body at some point anyways, so get the RP because it has a sensor you're already happy with and is considerably cheaper.
2) The RP has the mode wheel which is MUCH faster to use than the software interface on the R
3) The RP is still coming with a free EF adapter for your existing lenses
4) RP has focus stacking, R doesn't
5) RP has intervalometer, R doesn't
Frankly, I'd just keep the 6D2 until R gen 2. Set the money aside now if you absolutely must.
Good since they really needed to drop the price on that stuff. They're essentially over charging for a perfected A7II (This is not to be confused with the A7III).Nikon Z6 with the 24-70 f4 now goes for $2100 here in Switzerland, that's a very good price.
Good since they really needed to drop the price on that stuff. They're essentially over charging for a perfected A7II (This is not to be confused with the A7III).
I'd love to see someone do a price comparison for Sony's first gen A7 vs the newer stuff inflation adjusted. It really does sound like early adopters are getting fleeced. The S1 series seem like a great camera, just the DFD wobble makes me go, "you guys trying to give me a migraine?" Not the mention everything S1 related is expensive. The S1 costs more than a used A7R3, the lens prices actually aren't that bad minus the 50 1.4, the SL lenses are a no go though.Yeah it was definitely priced too high. Even worse is the Panasonic S1, at least here. The set with the 24-105 costs $4200 here. Wtf. Body is $3000. The 1R is even worse. I don't think they will sell a lot at these prices.
"All I want is the perfect camera, all I want is the perfect camuraa..."Take Z body/mount size, RF lenses, Sony AF and battery life, Fuji dials and dual UHS-II ports, Panny build quality and baby, you got the perfect camera.
Adjusted for inflation the A7 released at $1860, A7R at $2520.I'd love to see someone do a price comparison for Sony's first gen A7 vs the newer stuff inflation adjusted
Well. I'd add Fuji and Kodak film sims as well. Why not.Take Z body/mount size, RF lenses, Sony AF and battery life, Fuji dials and dual UHS-II ports, Panny build quality and baby, you got the perfect camera.
Wow the A7R series got a huge jump after that.Adjusted for inflation the A7 released at $1860, A7R at $2520.
These would be great too.
I'd argue the A9/A7R3 MSRPs were a bit on the Panny side of absurdity, but the current prices are world beaters.
Yeah launch day prices are absurd, what you're getting now is a much better value. Yet still I want them cheaper.I'd argue the A9/A7R3 MSRPs were a bit on the Panny side of absurdity, but the current prices are world beaters.