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Adder7806

Member
Dec 16, 2018
4,120
Like DBT85 said, it's going to be just sanded and finished. It looks pretty nice. Most of the work has already been done really, I'll try to have some pictures on Saturday. My girlfriend is an artist and we have everything in her studio/workshop, so is kind of a weekends project. (Mostly because I work at our department and don't have time in weekdays). We used a miter saw for most cuts, already made the holes (we already tested some birch wood plugs we saw at the hardware store, and they do the work of hiding the screws).

I've been handling the sanding of everything, which is the only thing left right now before assembly. And I've been worrying about the weight because so far no furniture we have made have had to deal with weight, the closes one was the kitchen table. But most of the time there isn't anything on top, and at most is just food and tableware.

My girlfriend does have more experience working with wood, she loves making her own crates for shipping her art pieces. But making furniture for our apartment has been something new. And she is not too worried because her father has always told her to just use 3/4 plywood. I'm just the one that has been worrying about the weight. I'm aware enough about load capacity, stress, and physics stuff to be worried about it. But I don't know enough to be adequate sure it will hold.

Btw, this is how we hid the screws for the legs for our table. The only difference would be that the plug will actually be birch wood, and not some random piece of wood that happened to fit hehe.
TfPF6cZ.png
That's awesome. Woodworking is such a rewarding activity, especially since you're doing it with your partner. (Although you got stuck with the worst part - sanding, lol). Looking forward to seeing the results.
 

captive

Member
Oct 25, 2017
16,988
Houston
That's awesome. Woodworking is such a rewarding activity, especially since you're doing it with your partner. (Although you got stuck with the worst part - sanding, lol). Looking forward to seeing the results.
LOL people always says they hate sanding. I must be weird, I love it. It means I'm on the home stretch of the project. And feeling a piece of wood going from raw to smooth as glass is awesome
 
OP
OP
DBT85

DBT85

Resident Thread Mechanic
Member
Oct 26, 2017
16,245
I'm indifferent to sanding. On one hand it's defenders and mask on, put on some music or a background show and just get on with it, on the other it can be a lot of work for what can appear little gain.

I think for a lot of people the bit they enjoy most is the initial design and actual crafting of the pieces.
 

Adder7806

Member
Dec 16, 2018
4,120
I'm indifferent to sanding. On one hand it's defenders and mask on, put on some music or a background show and just get on with it, on the other it can be a lot of work for what can appear little gain.

I think for a lot of people the bit they enjoy most is the initial design and actual crafting of the pieces.
It's just so tedious despite being so necessary. Cutting a mortise and tenon - hot damn that's a good time. 60, 120, 22 grit just goes on forever.
 

captive

Member
Oct 25, 2017
16,988
Houston
It's just so tedious despite being so necessary. Cutting a mortise and tenon - hot damn that's a good time. 60, 120, 22 grit just goes on forever.
i just sanded some walnut shelves for my movie theater from 80 grit to 4000 with danish oil applied at 220, 800 and 4000. loved it. its relaxing to me. I listen to music or books and just go.
 

Adder7806

Member
Dec 16, 2018
4,120
i just sanded some walnut shelves for my movie theater from 80 grit to 4000 with danish oil applied at 220, 800 and 4000. loved it. its relaxing to me. I listen to music or books and just go.
I fell asleep just reading that, lol. I bet it came out beautiful though. Walnut is just a gorgeous wood.
 

captive

Member
Oct 25, 2017
16,988
Houston
Looks really great. That epoxy stuff looks so difficult to get right but comes out awesome when it does. You must have access to a wide belt sander? Very jealous.
thanks.

i wish on the sander. Ive looked all over and the only two places i know of in Houston with industrial woodworking equipment are one place i get wood at occasionally but they wont touch any wood you didnt buy from them. And then for this project I found a guy way up north from me, but he charges 75/hr to use his 20" planer with a 2 hour minimum. And he has a wood wiz that would have cost about 250 bucks to get this table planed on both sides. My only problem was it doesnt fit in my van. His prices are really reasonable and i might be bringing up some pieces to him when i have more, that can actually fit.

sooo i did it with my cross cut sled, router and 3" planer bit. Then hit it with 40 grit sanding on the rotex setting on my sander. Up to 100 grit then switch to orbital and sand to 220.

the epoxy top process isn't hard, its just a process. You need to do seal coats to get the wood from sucking in all the epoxy so that your flood coat is flat. The more difficult is keeping people from opening and closing doors. I did an epoxy top on a butcher block and a fucking fly landed in the final coat. So i had to sand it out and redo the top.
 

Adder7806

Member
Dec 16, 2018
4,120
thanks.

i wish on the sander. Ive looked all over and the only two places i know of in Houston with industrial woodworking equipment are one place i get wood at occasionally but they wont touch any wood you didnt buy from them. And then for this project I found a guy way up north from me, but he charges 75/hr to use his 20" planer with a 2 hour minimum. And he has a wood wiz that would have cost about 250 bucks to get this table planed on both sides. My only problem was it doesnt fit in my van. His prices are really reasonable and i might be bringing up some pieces to him when i have more, that can actually fit.

sooo i did it with my cross cut sled, router and 3" planer bit. Then hit it with 40 grit sanding on the rotex setting on my sander. Up to 100 grit then switch to orbital and sand to 220.

the epoxy top process isn't hard, its just a process. You need to do seal coats to get the wood from sucking in all the epoxy so that your flood coat is flat. The more difficult is keeping people from opening and closing doors. I did an epoxy top on a butcher block and a fucking fly landed in the final coat. So i had to sand it out and redo the top.
Damn That is dedication. How long did it take to route the top like that? Here in SoCal I know of at least 2 shops with wide belt sanders and there are probably a dozen more.
 

captive

Member
Oct 25, 2017
16,988
Houston
Damn That is dedication. How long did it take to route the top like that? Here in SoCal I know of at least 2 shops with wide belt sanders and there are probably a dozen more.
not sure, i have it all on video, going to post this video of building this table to the interwebs


But it doesnt actually take that long. The thing for me is i haaate doing it. Its dangerous, the epoxy feels like needles hitting your skin, makes a huge mess and is extremely loud. I wear noise cancelling over the ear headphones and still can't hear shit. When i do it, it *feels* like it takes forever, but it doesn take that long. This one was tricky cause its a corner and that makes planning a straight line with the sled difficult. So i have on video my moving the table around with the sled over the corner.
 

scurker

Member
Oct 25, 2017
652
Just completed a game table build! Took me about ~3 months from start to completion. Probably at least about 80+ hours work of work over evenings and the occasional weekend. I'm exhausted, but glad to have it finished now. We've gotten a couple of plays in and its been great, but we're planning on hosting game nights every couple of weeks with friends so this will be a nice addition to our game room.

Completed table build with cherry leaning ledges and 6 individual player shelves folded up
Player shelves folded down with cup holder drawers pulled out
All 6 individual player shelves folded down, cup holders not yet installed
 

Adder7806

Member
Dec 16, 2018
4,120
Looks really great . I like the clever fold down shelves. Doing that after work is tough. Come home tired knowing you have to sand something - tough to find the motivation. Nice job.
 

captive

Member
Oct 25, 2017
16,988
Houston
Just completed a game table build! Took me about ~3 months from start to completion. Probably at least about 80+ hours work of work over evenings and the occasional weekend. I'm exhausted, but glad to have it finished now. We've gotten a couple of plays in and its been great, but we're planning on hosting game nights every couple of weeks with friends so this will be a nice addition to our game room.

Completed table build with cherry leaning ledges and 6 individual player shelves folded up
Player shelves folded down with cup holder drawers pulled out
All 6 individual player shelves folded down, cup holders not yet installed
That looks great
Nice work.
 

scurker

Member
Oct 25, 2017
652
Sanding is definitely a pain, thankfully I was able to knock most of the sanding out in one weekend.

Working evenings to complete this wasn't too bad. I made sure the kids were in bed, and plenty of podcasts loaded up on my phone so it was relatively relaxing (aside from when I made mistakes in measuring/cutting).
 

Sr Kitsune

Prophet of Truth
Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,951
Baja California, Mexico
Hey, I finally got an update on the tv stand I have been working with my SO. It's been a while since the last update. We just didn't have any time to continue working on it until the last weekend when I was able to finish the sanding of it.

We just assembled it, so it's finally taking shape. A few things are pending, like the center leg we removed to screw the middle wall. And I will have to sand again the top to make sure the bits of wood we used to hide the screws are level with the rest of it. And also applying the beeswax to protect the wood.

But that should be about everything that is left to be done.

Sadly we weren't able to finish this before today's Grand Prix. But it's almost done now.


A photo of the assembled tv stand.
IMG-20220409-150636.jpg
 

DarthWoo

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,658
I'm building a PVC fence for my garden this year. Last year I'd just placed some T-posts and zip tied chicken wire around the perimeter, but I guess up to 13 feet between posts was more than could keep the chicken wire tight. This time I'll make rectangles out of 1/2" pipe with elbow joints, zip tying the wire all around the edges. Then I'll use reusable zip ties to secure the pipe assemblies to the T-posts. I'm also using 3/4" pipe to make a separate section for a hinged door. Two questions:

If the longest run between posts is around 13', would one additional vertical support in the middle of the pipe assembly (meaning about 6.5' horizontal space between verticals) provide sufficient structural integrity, or might I need to increase to two or three?

What is an easy way to secure a flat door hinge 1" wide to a round pipe (approx 1" wide exterior diameter)? I bought some machine screws and nuts so I can screw the thing on through both sides of the pipe, rather than just have one dinky screw holding it into one side of the pipe, which I assume would gradually grind the PVC down over time. However, I feel like even if I get the screw through properly, the empty space between the edges of the latches and the pipe would be bad for it. I considered taking a square piece of wood around 1/2" thick and drilling a hole through it to slide around the pipe, but there aren't any 1.05" spade bits, only 1", which is too small, or too large ones. I guess I could just cut the square in half and sand the edge of the hole with a rotary tool until it's about the right size.
 

Adder7806

Member
Dec 16, 2018
4,120
I'm building a PVC fence for my garden this year. Last year I'd just placed some T-posts and zip tied chicken wire around the perimeter, but I guess up to 13 feet between posts was more than could keep the chicken wire tight. This time I'll make rectangles out of 1/2" pipe with elbow joints, zip tying the wire all around the edges. Then I'll use reusable zip ties to secure the pipe assemblies to the T-posts. I'm also using 3/4" pipe to make a separate section for a hinged door. Two questions:

If the longest run between posts is around 13', would one additional vertical support in the middle of the pipe assembly (meaning about 6.5' horizontal space between verticals) provide sufficient structural integrity, or might I need to increase to two or three?

What is an easy way to secure a flat door hinge 1" wide to a round pipe (approx 1" wide exterior diameter)? I bought some machine screws and nuts so I can screw the thing on through both sides of the pipe, rather than just have one dinky screw holding it into one side of the pipe, which I assume would gradually grind the PVC down over time. However, I feel like even if I get the screw through properly, the empty space between the edges of the latches and the pipe would be bad for it. I considered taking a square piece of wood around 1/2" thick and drilling a hole through it to slide around the pipe, but there aren't any 1.05" spade bits, only 1", which is too small, or too large ones. I guess I could just cut the square in half and sand the edge of the hole with a rotary tool until it's about the right size.
You might be able to slide a dowel into the pipe to create better bite for your screws?

6.5 feet between spaces sounds ok to me but you've got a unique situation going on.
 

captive

Member
Oct 25, 2017
16,988
Houston
You might be able to slide a dowel into the pipe to create better bite for your screws?

6.5 feet between spaces sounds ok to me but you've got a unique situation going on.
yea chicken wire is famously flimsy and finnicky.


for the 6.5ft run you could do a T out of the PVC and have a pipe run horizontally to help with stability.

for your door hinge have you seen something like this https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Sna...ocphy=9027840&hvtargid=pla-469353100724&psc=1

wood -> PVC might still be your best bet though.
 
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tsmoreau

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,433
I made a crane to help me assemble a retaining wall.

View: https://i.imgur.com/Duleem0.jpg
I had done a different version that sat in the bed of my truck for another wall, but this one was in a backyard where I couldn't get the truck, so I made a more portable version to assemble this 50' of concrete sleeper wall.

Poured and textured the concrete sleepers myself too (you can actually see the assembly line for them in the background). The posts are I beams, which the sleepers are slid between after pouring the posts in place. That's what the crane is for, to drop in the sleepers from above.

Runs on a 12v winch, and works great. Couldn't help myself imagining a roman era version with a bunch of wood peg gears and a person walking in a giant hamster wheel.

Then I remembered they had tons of human power available, and only a few pulleys/snatch blocks would have been needed, with 4-6 folks pulling on a line. Different times.
 

maped

Member
Mar 7, 2018
237
Oh wow, that's cool stuff. Those are what, 200-250kg a piece? I've worked with some heavy natural stepping stones and curb stones and its kind of wild what you can move and lift with just a couple of a-frames, a chain pulley, some rollers and a couple of pinch bars. Also definately gives new appreciation for the work done back in the day when that was all you had to work with.
 

tsmoreau

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,433
Oh wow, that's cool stuff. Those are what, 200-250kg a piece? I've worked with some heavy natural stepping stones and curb stones and its kind of wild what you can move and lift with just a couple of a-frames, a chain pulley, some rollers and a couple of pinch bars. Also definately gives new appreciation for the work done back in the day when that was all you had to work with.
A little bit less, say 150kg or so? I've been making them, so the size has changed over time as I've thinned them out a few centimeters to get the best strength to weight ratio.

They've got some fiber reinforcement in them as well, similar to how concrete countertops are done.

It's, it's sooooo empowering just how much you can move with basic leverage and simple engineering tools. Hell I rolled the first version of those on pipes uphill a hundred feet or so with the same winch you see in the pic there and they weighed nearly 200kgs apiece. My in laws were amazed, but like, this is same stuff we been doing for thousands of years.

Real deep power in teaching simple engineering and mechanical principles.
 

DarthWoo

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,658
I need to make a makeshift cover for my heat pump before the winter, as rainwater tends to get into it and freeze when it's cold enough, leading to loud and potentially damaging scraping by the blades. My plan is to basically make a frame of PVC pipe that will rest on top of the heat pump, with pipe insulation on the parts in direct contact, and corrugated PVC roofing panels as a cover. Some questions arise, however.

-Pipe insulation is basically the same as pool noodles, right? These things will only be exposed to weather for the winter, so I'm hoping snow/ice won't dissolve them or something.

-(Stupid question) I've never really paid attention to the heat pump in the winter, but is it blowing air upward as strongly as it is in the summer? One complication is that with the plastic roof panels, this thing will basically be a big sail, so it will probably blow away if I don't anchor it somehow. I had originally wanted to make this huge and over-engineered cage that extended to the ground, but it was seeming more and more impractical.
 

Fuzzy

Completely non-threatening
The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
18,127
Toronto
I need to make a makeshift cover for my heat pump before the winter, as rainwater tends to get into it and freeze when it's cold enough, leading to loud and potentially damaging scraping by the blades. My plan is to basically make a frame of PVC pipe that will rest on top of the heat pump, with pipe insulation on the parts in direct contact, and corrugated PVC roofing panels as a cover. Some questions arise, however.

-Pipe insulation is basically the same as pool noodles, right? These things will only be exposed to weather for the winter, so I'm hoping snow/ice won't dissolve them or something.

-(Stupid question) I've never really paid attention to the heat pump in the winter, but is it blowing air upward as strongly as it is in the summer? One complication is that with the plastic roof panels, this thing will basically be a big sail, so it will probably blow away if I don't anchor it somehow. I had originally wanted to make this huge and over-engineered cage that extended to the ground, but it was seeming more and more impractical.
You should probably ask in this thread also.

www.resetera.com

Homeowner Thread |OT| A Thread for Homeowners

This thread can be a general repository for questions/concerns/advice regarding owning a home. Anything from questions about the home buying process to refinancing, to lawn care, appliance recommendations, or projects you're working on. Use it as a sounding board to complain about those...
 

tsmoreau

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,433
I need to make a makeshift cover for my heat pump before the winter, as rainwater tends to get into it and freeze when it's cold enough, leading to loud and potentially damaging scraping by the blades. My plan is to basically make a frame of PVC pipe that will rest on top of the heat pump, with pipe insulation on the parts in direct contact, and corrugated PVC roofing panels as a cover. Some questions arise, however.

-Pipe insulation is basically the same as pool noodles, right? These things will only be exposed to weather for the winter, so I'm hoping snow/ice won't dissolve them or something.

-(Stupid question) I've never really paid attention to the heat pump in the winter, but is it blowing air upward as strongly as it is in the summer? One complication is that with the plastic roof panels, this thing will basically be a big sail, so it will probably blow away if I don't anchor it somehow. I had originally wanted to make this huge and over-engineered cage that extended to the ground, but it was seeming more and more impractical.
So this is actually quite a solid approach, broadly speaking! The pipe insulation will degrade a bit, but should be okay for years at a time.

Only issue I see is the same one you raised yourself: the air flow through a heat pump compressor is maaaaassssive.

I'd recommend not having anything solid in the front or the back of the unit. Most mini split compressor covers (Google it!) have either a grille style front and back or massively perforated material for same to facilitate the air flow.

Definitely do not block the front or back of the unit, as the units efficiency will be hugely impacted!
 

captive

Member
Oct 25, 2017
16,988
Houston
this threads been a little quiet.
wanted to share this anyway

Made this on my CNC machine for the studio we go to.
XfFTcgKh.jpg