Below average compared to what, past TR titles or the games I've listed above? Remember, average can mean a lot of different things to a lot of different people. When we're talking averages pertaining to a gaming outlet, the assumption is that they're playing a much greater diversity of titles, including much of the lower quality stuff that doesn't get as much coverage or nearly as many sales, hence changes the perception of what constitutes as average.
Also, I feel like you selectively chose which elements of my post to focus on and which to ignore. Notice I included gameplay, progression and level design in my list. I'm not saying production values supercede gameplay, just that they are another piece of the puzzle that can improve the overall quality of a game, or ones enjoyment of it.
And yes, personally I absolutely do feel that production values, sound design, graphics, polish, animations, scope, physics etc are things that can draw extra appreciation or commendation for the overall package. They're certainly things that impact my overall enjoyment of a game, hence I would include factor that into any review. They're certainly not things I take for granted, as ultimately entire teams of people have worked tirelessly to get things looking as beautiful, rich, expansive, refined or polished as they are.