I've been on a JRPG kick lately. FF7 and FF9 are my favorite Final Fantasies (and two of my favorite games of all time), and I also really like 6 and 10. As someone who has heard the entire range of opinions on 12, what's the best way to sell me on this game? Why do you think it's gotten a controversial reception where some people think it's either a masterpiece or can't stand it? I want to like it but I can also be a bit picky about Final Fantasy games.
The simplest assessment is this: do you enjoy Matsuno-style writing and world-building (e.g. FFT, Tactics Ogre, etc)?
FFXII is a game with good characters, like most FFs, but it focuses a bit less on them and their interactions than it does its Shakespearean political machinations.
More importantly to its divisiveness, its gambit combat system was well ahead of its time, and served to inspire the AI tactic customization used in subsequent BioWare games (chiefly Dragon Age). People will say "it plays itself," but it really doesn't most of the time; after the beginning, the player constantly has to manually input and control situations in ways their gambits couldn't anticipate.
The Zodiac Age remaster improved the game in a number of ways, too. It features 2/4x fast-forwarding, which is a major QoL boon and meshes perfectly with gambit combat, as well as a job system that ensures characters' uniqueness in a way that the original release's universal license board didn't.