I'm sorry, but I can't count that as gunpla - can't be a Gundam plastic model without being from Gundam after all.
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Gundam perfect grade
- Thread starter BladeoftheImmortal
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I'm sorry, but I can't count that as gunpla - can't be a Gundam plastic model without being from Gundam after all.
Valerion's response was probably aimed at this post even though he quoted you.
So an actual Patlabor kit in a thread where people ended up talking about plamo besides gunpla regardless of the OP is something MrKlaw might be interested in.
Sure, and that's great. I'm not sure why you seem to think think I'd disagree with that at in any way.
But since Valkerion did specifically quote a specific part of my post I explained why I didn't include the Patlabor kits in it: because the post I was replying to was specifically asking about gundam. And I cleared up what I meant with gunpla in the part of my post that was quoted. I'm not sure why you seem upset by that - if my post came across as dismissive, that was really not my intent (because my definition of gunpla only really matters in regards to the specific statement that was quoted, and really doesn't matter in any other way).
Got home and just gave my Ultra Premium nippers a shot, and holy shit they really do make a world of difference.
I'm actually kinda salty I built those Megami Device kits with my old nippers now
I'm actually kinda salty I built those Megami Device kits with my old nippers now
I'd personally recommend the 1/100 NG IBO kits for a beginner. The quality and build complexity approaches that of an MG, but at a much lower price point.
The Barbatos Lupus Rex is just fantastic:
They really should be using another cutter for removing the part from the runner first. Godhand should only be used for the final cut.
Yeah, my 1/100 Grimgerde was all of like £13 and pretty awesome for that price I think:
I do prefer the highgrade though, the 1/100 looks so much more... I dunno thick? Clunky? In comparison, the HGs just feel so much more dynamic in comparison imo.
I really like the IBO designs, the Lupus was 100% solely responsible for getting me into modeling again since my teenage days of zoids.
Seeing this awesome design on sale for a mere 700 yen at some random shop, blew my fucking mind, amazing piece of kit for less than 5 quid.
It also made me get into painting and get some random chinese airbrushing kit off of ebay:
God I wish the clean up and setup wasn't such a pain in the ass tho.
Do they still make the 1/144 Gundam Wing kits? I used to have a bunch of them as a kid, would love to grab another for nostalgia.
For gunpla, not necessary at all. It's up to you how far you want to go.
I rarely fully paint my kits but the High Grade Ball comes with two units so I decided to leave one unpainted (only panel lines with a marker) and paint the other.
Nothing is necessary.
Hell I used to just twist parts out of sprues with my bare hands and just put it together and that was that.
It's just about what you want to do.
For 1/144 Wing kits you have three options:
- The old kits which I'm told are somewhat bad by today's standards but Bandai will still reprint them from time to time
- The High Grade kits. Only 3 of them that I know of: Wing Gundam TV version, Wing Gundam Zero TV version, Leo (to be released soon)
- The Real Grade kits. Again only 3 of them: Wing Gundam Endless Waltz, Wing Gundam Zero Endless Waltz, Tallgeese (to be released soon)
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Hohoho, very beautiful work. I love how creative people can get with the Grimgerde. It didn't do anything for me when I saw it on the anime, but when the kit came out I fell in love with the proportions. Mine is still in a box though together with the Bael, and I'm toying with the idea of kitbashing them together.
Not necessary, but fun. You get out as much as you put in. Out of box builds are already lookers on their own thanks the quality of the kits, but putting in the extra work elevates your kit to different heights.
HG Wing kits are mostly still in print, though Wing is really old, so the quality is really lacking compared to more recent HGs (starting with the 00 kits). If you only care about the scale, try the RG line. They're basically small MGs:
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Cheers.
I actually forgot it existed in the anime, it made zero impact on me whatsoever, it's only when I saw the kit on /r/gunpla or something that it hit me what a cool kit a was and now its the only one I've built two of.
The Bael was the opposite, loved it in the anime and couldn't wait for the kits, but I can't gel with the kit's proportions at all, those feet especially kill it for me.
The Lupus delivered in both mediums though.
It's reconfiguration as the Helmwige Reincar is quite forgettable in the anime but its role during the end of the first season is rather relevant. I fail to see how one could forget it. :)
It wasn't the main fight, and Galigali was inconsequential at that point, so the stronger impression was of Chocoman bullying a nobody. Didn't help that it only appeared once.
He was fighting the Gundam Kimaris ground-type. That was memorable at least because it had 4-legs and was shown twice, 4 times if you include the space-type. And it was pinkish purple, and looked like a fat seahorse. Yeah, it was memorable with how weird and out there it was.
On the topic of IBO, I still can't believe that Bandai hasn't announced any RG, MG, or PG of any IBO kit whatsoever. I don't know the sales data, but anecdotally, IBO kits are selling very well, so it boggles me that they haven't made any high-end version.
Kimaris Trooper is not as good looking as regular Kimaris but that would be a considerable feat since the latter is my favourite MS from IBO. Any MS that has chunky legs without looking fat has my seal of approval.
Vidar to me looks OK but I don't love it as much as most people.Can we at least agree that Vidar (both Gundam and pilot) was amazing?
From a story point of view, that it has a jobber incorporated in its sub-systems is a minus, not a plus.
Vidar looks awesome, a bit too busy around the waist tho, mostly due to those rapier binders.
I'd take out the frontal knee thruster too if I built one
I'd take out the frontal knee thruster too if I built one
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I know it's not a Gunpla perse, but until we have a general plastic model OT, this seems about the most appropriate place to post my completed Megami Device
Well, I say completed, but I really just mean put together. When I've got the time, I'll get the panel lining and some light shading and weathering done.
As my first Megami Device kit, I think the line is pretty neat. The mecha musume aesthetic isn't for everyone, but I'm a fan. I also like how the line is apparently made to be compatible with Kotobukiya's Frame Arts and Frame Arts Girl lines, which should allow for some fun customs if I ever go that route. What I don't like however is how fiddly she is. I get the feeling the design was entirely centered on aesthetics with no consideration of playability, since I can hardly pose her without bits and pieces falling off.
Particular weakpoints are the little yellow fins on her chest, the fins on her back wing things, her right shoulder and her wrists. Other bits and bops occasionally fall off, but those are the key risk areas. Ironically, the figure itself is incredibly posable and you can get really dynamic poses, so long as you have the dexterity of a surgeon to make sure she doesn't break into a billion pieces in the process.
She's also one of the bigger kits in the line, which might be contributing to how easily she comes apart. I've also got the much more modestly designed WISM Soldier kits to build, so hopefully their more simple designs will allow them to keep together better.
Well, I say completed, but I really just mean put together. When I've got the time, I'll get the panel lining and some light shading and weathering done.
As my first Megami Device kit, I think the line is pretty neat. The mecha musume aesthetic isn't for everyone, but I'm a fan. I also like how the line is apparently made to be compatible with Kotobukiya's Frame Arts and Frame Arts Girl lines, which should allow for some fun customs if I ever go that route. What I don't like however is how fiddly she is. I get the feeling the design was entirely centered on aesthetics with no consideration of playability, since I can hardly pose her without bits and pieces falling off.
Particular weakpoints are the little yellow fins on her chest, the fins on her back wing things, her right shoulder and her wrists. Other bits and bops occasionally fall off, but those are the key risk areas. Ironically, the figure itself is incredibly posable and you can get really dynamic poses, so long as you have the dexterity of a surgeon to make sure she doesn't break into a billion pieces in the process.
She's also one of the bigger kits in the line, which might be contributing to how easily she comes apart. I've also got the much more modestly designed WISM Soldier kits to build, so hopefully their more simple designs will allow them to keep together better.
I'm scared
Deathscythe Hell isn't too bad. Just don't cut yourself.
For a Master Grade, it could be worse and The-O isn't actually the worst you can find. You'll be fine. :)
I'm scared
You should!
As far as materialistic nerd hobbies go, it's one of the better ones since you get to imbue a little bit of yourself in the finished model
The short answer is that Tamiya paints are considered to be great, though I've never used them myself.
The longer answer is that the choice of paint depends on several things. The first thing to consider is the different types you can get. The most common are acrylic paints, which dry quickly and can be thinned with water, and enamel paints, which are oil-based, dry more slowly and need to be thinned with special thinners. Since acrylics are much easier to work with that's what I'd recommend (for starting out, at least), though some people do swear by enamels. Most of the bigger manufacturers make both types of paint.
The second thing that's kind-of important is if you'll be using an air-brush, or just painting it with a normal brush. For airbrushing, I've heard good things about Tamiya, so if you can get that easily/cheaply then go for it. Otherwise, all of the big manufacturers (Tamiya, Revell, Humbrol, Model Masters, ...) should be fine too, so if you can get something else more easily (i. e. in a local shop) just google that to see if it has any big issues. I don't think I've ever seen anyone complain too much over paints when it comes to airbrushing, though different people obviously prefer different paints.
For handbrushing, it's a bit trickier, since some paints supposedly work much better than others. I can't personally comment too much on that since I'm happy with with using Revell's acrylic paints, but people do seem to have quite strong opinions on which paint is the best for this (i. e. which paint leaves the least brush strokes). I've heard some really bad things about Tamiya paints, but I've also hears some great things, so I can't really help much here. If you are going this route, then just remember to buy a good brush and to thin your paint.
Hopefully someone with more experience, who's actually used more than one type of paint, can comment further. Sadly, everything I've said is mostly second-hand, but I hope it's at least somewhat helpful.
Tamiya TS spraycans are amazing from a beginner standpoint. They dry really quick, and spread more evenly compared to something like Mr. Hobby, though a bit more expensive. Hobby spraycans are generally a class above over-the-counter brands you can find at hardware stores. If you're not going to dive into airbrushing or handpainting, you can do the following workflow using spraycans: primer > base color > clear gloss > panel line + decal > final clear (gloss or matte). If you want to skimp on some steps, you can: base color > panel line + decal > final clear (gloss or matte).
Here's my Exia using only spray cans, using the (base color > panel line + decal > pearl clear) sequence:
Everything used is Tamiya spraycans:
White parts - Pearl White, Pearl Clear
Blue parts - Metallic Blue, Pearl Clear
Red parts - Metallic Red, Pearl Clear
Silver parts - Mica Silver, Clear
Gray parts - Flat Clear
I completely forgot spraycans are a thing lol. I just wish they weren't as expensive as they are. I'd love to try them out, but when a single can costs more than an entire model (the cheapest ones, but still) it's not the most inviting option.
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$5 a can ain't too bad, major colors can probably do 2~3 HGs or 1~2 MGs, while minor colors can last up to 6~8 kits. I've used Gold for over 10 kits and it still feels half full. And I usually paint only MGs any way, so the cost is worth it in my case. I'm currently transitioning to an airbrush, but spraycans was a good start when I had zero knowledge or experience.
It's 10,5€ a can at a local shop here (even more for the fancy metallic paints), and Amazon UK isn't much cheaper. I don't know if there's good online shop that would ship them to Europe cheaply enough (Amazon UK sure doesn't), though I haven't really looked much into it.
If Bandai could just make kits like these for everything that'd be great. Gotta get a Patlabor kit now. I'm still salty that the Halo SpruKits never took off, I would have loved to see 1/144, 1/100 and 1/72 models of Mammoths, Scarabs, and Broadswords.
I'm looking forward to LABO
Figure-rise LABO Fumina Hoshino!
Call me when they release Allenby.
If you live in Australia or New Zealand, the Hobbyco Ultra Premium nippers are really good for the price (50AUD)
I'm in the US, and could really use a nippers suggestion as well now plan to pop by hobby lobby tomorrow
Also I have joined the base club, I ordered the revive 30th(I think) HG classic Gundam model, should be here in a week or two, thus why I need nippers!... and maybe the exacto knife/sandpaper too
Also I have joined the base club, I ordered the revive 30th(I think) HG classic Gundam model, should be here in a week or two, thus why I need nippers!... and maybe the exacto knife/sandpaper too
If you are starting out, any nipper that has a flush edge will be fine.
I myself use a cheap $5 pair of side nippers from Michael's and sharpen them on a whetstone when they start to get dull.
The more expensive $40-50 nippers like Godhands are for clean plastic nub removal that cuts down on the time it takes to get rid of them.
Also this is a good starter set for all of you getting into the hobby.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D1JYXK...dv&pd_rd_r=16AM7E8S5H55SY806C03&pd_rd_w=H5W3k
comes with Nippers, sanding sponges, metal files, an exato blade, and a parts separator for under $20.
I have the exact set that SGJin just linked to as it had been years since my last build and I needed a quick and easy set to start with. That kit seems just fine to me so far, though I did go out and buy a buffing stick (for fingernails) to get some of the sanding marks off as the finest sanding in that set still left some.
Unsure if I'll be doing much besides some weathering and panel lines on this, but started it over the weekend.
Unsure if I'll be doing much besides some weathering and panel lines on this, but started it over the weekend.
Well, this thread made me order a Gunpla model, and buy a lot of extra stuff to do it. But the two evenings i spent on the model were quite fun ! So i ordered 6 more high grade models from amiami together with Color markers :D After these 6 models, i will probably step up to a higher grade.
This thread actually reminded me how in my childhood i used to make a few Jet fighter carriers, the glueing part was awfull, but this is quite nice, and i prefer it much more to lego !
All i did was some panel lining, but the cutting part i still have to get down a bit, because although i did not get cheap pliers, the results in some cuts could be better, and the files i got are quite coarse, so hopefully the markers will be able to cover some of the scratching after filling off the snubs in future models.
This thread actually reminded me how in my childhood i used to make a few Jet fighter carriers, the glueing part was awfull, but this is quite nice, and i prefer it much more to lego !
All i did was some panel lining, but the cutting part i still have to get down a bit, because although i did not get cheap pliers, the results in some cuts could be better, and the files i got are quite coarse, so hopefully the markers will be able to cover some of the scratching after filling off the snubs in future models.
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I need to get more kits, but I got burnt out going from Sandrock ver. ka to Wing Zero ver. ka. I got to Wing Zero's legs, remembered how long Sandrock's took, then remembered I had to put on the 90,000 decals it comes with, and stopped making it.
Is there a good/newer God Gundam MG?
Is there a good/newer God Gundam MG?
Oh shit I've been waiting for a new Methuss. All I need after this is a new Rick Dias and Nemo and I can complete my Zeta/Argama hangarCross-posting from the Gundam OT, a couple of pictures of the HGUC Methuss.
Shipping spray paint here is stupidly expensive.
That's why I went to airbrushing initially.
I don't know how good/bad they are but the only G Gundam Master Grades are the old ones.
The MG Nemo is decent enough (built it) even if it is from 2006, and the HG (haven't built it) is from 2012 (Unicorn color, Zeta color is a 2013 rereleae). Rick Dias is indeed old (although I have only built the Schuzrum Dias).
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