Here's a link with more details:
thats useful information thanksSorry. Should have been more descriptive.
The fat PS3 used a chip capacitor that is labeled as NEC TOKIN, and they look like this.
It has been discovered that they have a very high failure rate, and the yellow light of death on fat PS3's was caused by them going bad. However, for many years people thought the fix for the YLOD was to try to reflow the solder balls under the CPU and GPU, or for repair companies to completely remove the CPU/GPU and resolder them. It appeared to work, because when heated the token caps temporarily regain proper functions, but it was never a permanent solution, not to mention it was far more risky.
The current fix is to replace the Tokin capacitors with more reliable capacitors. So you'd end up with something like this.
The reason I mention them is because last I checked there were still many places claiming to do PS3 repair that don't replace those capacitors, and instead use outdated information and do the much more difficult job of resoldering the CPU/GPU.
Basically it's a good test to see if the repair place you choose has kept up to date on their info. It sounds like you might just need a good cleaning and new thermal paste, but better to go with a place that knows their stuff rather than one using years old info.
Sorry. Should have been more descriptive.
The fat PS3 used a chip capacitor that is labeled as NEC TOKIN, and they look like this.
It has been discovered that they have a very high failure rate, and the yellow light of death on fat PS3's was caused by them going bad. However, for many years people thought the fix for the YLOD was to try to reflow the solder balls under the CPU and GPU, or for repair companies to completely remove the CPU/GPU and resolder them. It appeared to work, because when heated the token caps temporarily regain proper functions, but it was never a permanent solution, not to mention it was far more risky.
The current fix is to replace the Tokin capacitors with more reliable capacitors. So you'd end up with something like this.
The reason I mention them is because last I checked there were still many places claiming to do PS3 repair that don't replace those capacitors, and instead use outdated information and do the much more difficult job of resoldering the CPU/GPU.
Basically it's a good test to see if the repair place you choose has kept up to date on their info. It sounds like you might just need a good cleaning and new thermal paste, but better to go with a place that knows their stuff rather than one using years old info.
holy shit what!
This is good to know, thanks for posting! I'll have to keep this in my back pocket.Sorry. Should have been more descriptive.
The fat PS3 used a chip capacitor that is labeled as NEC TOKIN, and they look like this.
It has been discovered that they have a very high failure rate, and the yellow light of death on fat PS3's was caused by them going bad. However, for many years people thought the fix for the YLOD was to try to reflow the solder balls under the CPU and GPU, or for repair companies to completely remove the CPU/GPU and resolder them. It appeared to work, because when heated the token caps temporarily regain proper functions, but it was never a permanent solution, not to mention it was far more risky.
The current fix is to replace the Tokin capacitors with more reliable capacitors. So you'd end up with something like this.
The reason I mention them is because last I checked there were still many places claiming to do PS3 repair that don't replace those capacitors, and instead use outdated information and do the much more difficult job of resoldering the CPU/GPU.
Basically it's a good test to see if the repair place you choose has kept up to date on their info. It sounds like you might just need a good cleaning and new thermal paste, but better to go with a place that knows their stuff rather than one using years old info.
Oh man, that sucks! So far I've only completely killed one PS3. It was upsetting, to say the least.
I have a PS2 and a RetroTink, so back compat is actually not that meaningful for me. If it's gonna be cheaper in the long run to get a newer PS3, I'll just go with that. Do you know if any particular models have better reliability, or can you not really go wrong?
Very interesting. My original slim is a champ that just keeps on going, I've never had any issues with it whatsoever. Thinking my new(to me) fat PS3 will just be a display piece, it just looks so cool still!
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