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Is the 70 for OLED light in SDR just personal preference? Like 100 would be too bright in a dark room?
calibration is a board term, mate... you and the other poster don't get to decide what's what
Yes, you can safely modify SDR OLED Light to your taste and/or based on your light condition in the room, without altering accuracy.
I started like anyone started (Rtings, AVSForums, HDTVTest etc.) then hired a professional calibrator here in Italy that did his work with my B7 (both in SDR and HDR).
Then I cross-checked further test by myself using disk-based patterns and continued to apply refiniments over years of TV/Console firmware upgrades with changes to the video chain final results.
Like I stated a couple of pages earlier: don't take my charts and any other "professional" charts as the holy grail, but you can at least safely start from there, and do some cross-checks if there's something not adding up also for you.
In any case, you should have a much much better starting point compared to the TV preset's defaults, especially in SDR/HDR Game modes.
Got it. So you're basing everything in this thread on an LG B7 that someone else calibrated and you subsequently modified since 2017.
Just to be clear, 2017 OLEDs behave very differently from 2018, and even have different sub pixel structures. 2018 as well has issues with forcing Wide in Game mode. 2019 and 2020 have these issues resolved and allow for HGIG in Game mode. Not to mention the B series having a more limited LUT compared to the C series.
I'm sorry but this should be the B7 settings thread. Everything else you're doing is simply inferred from your own limited experience. You don't have a meter or calibration software, and the TV you are using to compare just won't function the same as newer models. We can tell this from your "Wide in SDR" recommendations.
I'm fine with you creating settings for 2017, since tone mapping back then was very broken, but for 2019 and 2020 these sets work pretty much out of the box.
Sorry if you read my post and got confused, I forgot to mention HDR contrast should be 100, 85 is for SDR
Yeah it's just preference, but cranking it up to 100 in SDR might increase the likelihood of burn-in, so I wouldn't do that unless you you're in a really bright room or something.
Professional calibration which is what is claimed in the OP isn't really a broad term.
I'm not saying the settings suggested here aren't good, I have no experience in calibration, but after reading the concerns raised by the other guys, I think the info in this topic should be taken with a grain of salt.
Okay so because of all of the confusion, here are my recommendations for anyone with a C9/CX. This pretty much sticks to the most accurate out-of-the box settings these TVs come with and doesn't rely on a calibration with a meter, which varies between TVs of the same model anyway and shouldn't be copied
Anything not mentioned below should be turned off/left at default value
SDR Game Mode
Oled Light: Your preference and doesn't affect accuracy. For reference I have mine at 30 for a dark room.
Contrast: 85
Brightness: 50
Color: 50
Sharpness: 0
Color Gamut: Auto
Gamma: 2.2
White Balance: Warm 2
Black Level: Low (make sure your console/PC is set accordingly)
HDR Game Mode
OLED Light: 100 (needs to be 100 for HDR)
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 50
Color: 50
Sharpness: 0
Dynamic Tone Mapping: HGIG (set games to 800 nits, or follow on-screen calibration. If a game doesn't support this, you might get some highlight clipping so you can use DTM off if you want. For people who prefer a brighter "punchy" image, you can use DTM on but know you are getting a less accurate HDR image that can crush highlights and dark details)
Color Gamut: Auto
Gamma: 2.2
White Balance: Warm 2
Black Level: Low (make sure your console/PC is set accordingly)
That's basically it. You can change your input icon to PC to get proper 4:4:4 support (just a bit of extra clarity). This doesn't seem to have any downsides on HDMI 2.1 devices, but I haven't tested on older devices myself. If you see extra banding or anything weird, just change it back.
Let me know if anyone has any questions and feel free to copy and paste these wherever you want, I'd like to clear up confusion and misinformation that goes around.
Anything not mentioned below should be turned off/left at default value
SDR Game Mode
Oled Light: Your preference and doesn't affect accuracy. For reference I have mine at 30 for a dark room.
Contrast: 85
Brightness: 50
Color: 50
Sharpness: 0
Color Gamut: Auto
Gamma: 2.2
White Balance: Warm 2
Black Level: Low (make sure your console/PC is set accordingly)
HDR Game Mode
OLED Light: 100 (needs to be 100 for HDR)
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 50
Color: 50
Sharpness: 0
Dynamic Tone Mapping: HGIG (set games to 800 nits, or follow on-screen calibration. If a game doesn't support this, you might get some highlight clipping so you can use DTM off if you want. For people who prefer a brighter "punchy" image, you can use DTM on but know you are getting a less accurate HDR image that can crush highlights and dark details)
Color Gamut: Auto
Gamma: 2.2
White Balance: Warm 2
Black Level: Low (make sure your console/PC is set accordingly)
That's basically it. You can change your input icon to PC to get proper 4:4:4 support (just a bit of extra clarity). This doesn't seem to have any downsides on HDMI 2.1 devices, but I haven't tested on older devices myself. If you see extra banding or anything weird, just change it back.
Let me know if anyone has any questions and feel free to copy and paste these wherever you want, I'd like to clear up confusion and misinformation that goes around.
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That's absolutely false. Calibration is based on objective measurements, personal preference has nothing to do with it. You like particular settings on you TV and you want to share it with the world? Great, do so! But if you claim to have the ultimate calibrated settings that can be magically applied across all LG OLED from 2016 to 2010 (even the ones you don't have and have never seen in person), then you are willingly spreading misinformation.
Just read through this entire thread from the beginning and you will see the settings on both TV and consoles are constantly changing back and forth multiple times. One day something is "accurate" when it's on, next week, the new version of the settings will have you turn the same setting off for even more accuracy, then next month it will be on again. I'm not making shit up, it's all here (unless posts got edited afterward). I started following this thread since the beginning, when I got my B7. For the most part the settings were ok at first, not sure if they were that much better than other places like AVS or RTings. But then they kept on changing erratically with false claim of even better accuracy at every revision. That's when I realized this is just snake oil and stuck to basic RTings settings which provide an accurate enough picture and I don't have to change them every week.
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One thing to note is that his settings were originally 1:1 with Sonoftumble a AVS Poster who did the calibration on their personal meaning Sonoftumble's B7. OP Copied those settings and started tweaking them. That's where charts are from etc. That poster is in Thousand Oaks...pretty far from Italy...
He even admited early in thread that the settings were his...but now he hired a professional for his B7...yeah. Very unlikely someone who isn't willing to buy a 200 dollar meter and use free software like HCFR yet is this invested into "calibration" and I use that term loosely for this thread hired a professional.
He even admited early in thread that the settings were his...but now he hired a professional for his B7...yeah. Very unlikely someone who isn't willing to buy a 200 dollar meter and use free software like HCFR yet is this invested into "calibration" and I use that term loosely for this thread hired a professional.
I've changed the settings and XSX looks great. But I've connected my Switch via the same HDMI port and I have the feeling the Switch menu looks very bright, very white now? Should I use a different port for Switch and are there recommended settings to be found somewhere?
Yeah, I don't want to dogpile on the OP, this thread was actually useful for the B7 when I had one. The B7 had limitations in game mode that made it really inaccurate compared to anything outside of game mode, so it kind of required you tweaking beyond the defaults to get it look similar. However this is no longer the case with the C9/CX and all the modes can be set up identically.
I noticed this too. The Switch is extremely bright. I had to move it to its own input.
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I'm pretty sure default Color setting in HDR is 55 on my CX. Are you sure 50 is "correct"?
What's the difference between default Sharpness of 10 and 0. I assume 10 should be okay if you're using let's say 1440p on PC.
Other than this, my settings are the same as yours.
HDR color defaults to 50 in the other accurate modes like Cinema and Filmmaker Mode, so assuming the settings all behave the same way between modes (which they should), 50 should be more accurate.
As for sharpness, 0 should give you no edge enhancement and avoid any extra artefacts. Although I admit setting it to 10 appears to do very little to a 4K image, so much so that I struggle to tell the difference between 10 and 0 at 4K. It does appear to affect lower resolutions more though. Either way, it won't affect your picture very much and you can leave it at 10 if you want to add extra sharpness to lower resolutions.
The transport company delivered my new B8 to another address to god knows who...
Fun times, they'll call me tomorrow or on monday to deliver it to me. Of course I'm calling tomorrow morning, and of course I'm gonna check it's not a used TV.
Fun times, they'll call me tomorrow or on monday to deliver it to me. Of course I'm calling tomorrow morning, and of course I'm gonna check it's not a used TV.
This topic actually started for 2017 OLEDs only (which share the same identical panel from B7 to W7 by the way) and it stayed this way for about 3 years.
Only recently I expanded it also for 2018-2020 using a mixture of Rtings/AVSForum/HDTVTest delta recommendation for C9/CX and my personal findings during the years, including in-game HDR settings and signal analysis from Xbox and Playstation.
Users' feedback received until now is overwhelmingly positive and a noticeably improvemenet compared to stock presets you mentioned (including default presets on C9/CX) also for them.
You can continue to spin in it around with all the notions you want, but I think there's not much of useful to add to this discussion anymore, at least for me.
Did you set Switch to RGB Limited (4:4:4 at Limited/Standard Color Space) at 8-bit Color Depth?
You can also assigns separate HDMI for it, and changing its icon to PC (since it's an only SDR device).
If it is too bright for you try lowering OLED Light to a more comfortable level for you.
Anything else, accuracy wise, will remain intact.
Just remove the 'Wide' recommendation from your original post and we're peachy keen.
I won't, as my AVS .709 Blu-ray and USB drive patterns don't lie, plus now SDR results I'm seeing on the big screen are finally on par of what I'm seeing on my Samsung Galaxy, Surface Laptop and Surface Studio pre-calibrated displays. Sorry ;)
Hey guys,
I'm trying to follow few topics these last days about OLED TV, especially the LG CX 48"
Trying to understand what is happening with the VRR issues, and if LG can fix it with software or it's harwdware issue without (I read both).
As I will probably keep this TV for few years, and I will get an XSX maybe later (PS5 is coming and already checking for RTX 3080), what is your advice now ?
Is it better to wait for the next year upgrade or all issues are fixed now ?
Thanks!
I'm trying to follow few topics these last days about OLED TV, especially the LG CX 48"
Trying to understand what is happening with the VRR issues, and if LG can fix it with software or it's harwdware issue without (I read both).
As I will probably keep this TV for few years, and I will get an XSX maybe later (PS5 is coming and already checking for RTX 3080), what is your advice now ?
Is it better to wait for the next year upgrade or all issues are fixed now ?
Thanks!
Your not alone it seems to be a thing when 120hz is selected I sometimes get a white flicker as do a lot of people on avforums it doesn't happen with 60hz and it only seems to happen as you say between the dash and games etc for a split second
It's a hardware issue. Basically the OLED panels were designed to run at 120hz all the time, so when VRR kicks in pixels may get "over charged" because of the difference in timing, leading to them being brighter than they should be. It should only really be noticeable in dark near-black areas, but yeah. They might be able to make it less noticeable by manipulating gamma in software, but they won't be able to eliminate it. The problem with waiting is that there is no guarantee that they'll be able to fix it in next year's models either.
Oooooof
This thread was somewhat fine i think when it was just for 2017 sets( though i can't vouch for that since i don't have these tv's ), i see that it was recently "upgraded" to 2017-2020 range and i can't stay quiet here.
Settings listed in OP at least for C9/CX are bollocks... sorry if i contributed to dogpile
These below are actually correct basics for 19-20 models( though i personally use 2.4 gamma in SDR and in HDR section there should be WIDE color gamut selected, i am not sure if AUTO behaves correctly in this case and chooses WIDE(REC2020) indirectly ):
This thread was somewhat fine i think when it was just for 2017 sets( though i can't vouch for that since i don't have these tv's ), i see that it was recently "upgraded" to 2017-2020 range and i can't stay quiet here.
Settings listed in OP at least for C9/CX are bollocks... sorry if i contributed to dogpile
These below are actually correct basics for 19-20 models( though i personally use 2.4 gamma in SDR and in HDR section there should be WIDE color gamut selected, i am not sure if AUTO behaves correctly in this case and chooses WIDE(REC2020) indirectly ):
WTF? WIDE is NOT correct at least for C9/CX SDR modes, neither you should touch brightness setting.
You all in here giving OP shit for his settings, but truthfully he made my TV look fucking amazing. It didn't look great out of the box. I don't know what some of you are on really. DTM looks hella better than HGIG too for my eyes 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks for the explanation.
Well, now I'm a bit more confused :D don't know if it's still better to wait for 2021 model's or to put my order for the CX.
CX is incredible, and any initial problem with 4K/120/VRR will be fixed by Microsoft/LG except for the Gamma variations which will happen and be noticeable in very few situation only.
It's still the best TV your money can buy right now for Series X and PS5, and you have no guarantee that next year model will fix the 4K/120hz/VRR Gamma fluctuations, so you're risking of waiting 1 year for a much more expensive TV compared to current CX deals and with just minor improvements on top of it, with the same VRR issues.
If I was you, I would grab a CX at the best price you can find right now and be totally happy about it as the first OLED ;)
Gotcha, ok! Not a huge issue and I get it if the panel is switching modes. Obviously as 4K 120hz is still new I wouldn't be surprised if it's ironed out with an update from either MS or Lg.
Yeah, I did. I toned down brightness slightly, that seemed to help. Bit I'll tinker around a bit more.
Edit: I'm an idiot, it was not set to limited but rather full spectrum. I've changed it and now Switch looks great as well! :)
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So OP what are you opinions on the HGIG for series X? HDTVTest was reccomending setting that to on and calibrating from there
I still recommend DTM as it works/adjust HDR nicely with all games and movies, while HGIG will only work slightly better for some games while it has no effects at all on others.
If you still find HGIG providing more pleasant results to you, that's perfectly fine: just remember to set in-game HDR peak luminance sliders to 800 nits when using it.
So you are "calibrating" by eye, comparing a color pattern displayed on your phone, laptop and the B7. That's says it all. You do realize that Samsung phones are well known to intentionally have oversaturated colors to make the screen "pop" more and that's not necessarily desirable on a TV. Again even if that was the case you are still trying to match different devices, designed for different purposes by simply looking at them with your naked eye.
Exactly that.
You are missing the point completely. Nobody is faulting OP for sharing his TV settings and if you and others like it that's totally peachy. As mentioned by few here, the original settings (that he copied from someone on AVS) were actually ok for the B7, but those overtime changed multiple times back and forth and now because the new C9/CX OLEDs are so popular he decided to arbitrarily add them without knowing what those same settings look like on them.
What me and others are disputing are his claims that these are calibrated settings when he himself admits he does not own a meter or any other TV other than the B7. Some of these settings are objectively wrong, like the Wide Gamut on C9/CX (which again he does not own). The calibration chart in the first page is total bollocks and it's not the result of the settings he recommends, yet he leaves it there to intentionally mislead.
Supposedly it might not be able to be LG have said as much we shall see but it's not affecting the games as such so I'm not too fussed
P40L0
Your settings have been right on point for my C9. It's much appreciated! I hope you don't let some of these cranky posts get to you.
Your settings have been right on point for my C9. It's much appreciated! I hope you don't let some of these cranky posts get to you.
Also Evilboris has confirmed via his Twitter page this page isn't really helpful for accurate pictures I don't know why he didn't just keep this thread for pre 9 series TVs rather than change it so you now have people with a different model with entirely different HDR settings within the TV been told wrong information
Don't worry, it's been 3 years of constant improving and great feedback.
I think I have big enough shoulders to handle those at this point.
But thank you anyway, appreciated :)
Looking forward to version 10.0 of your setting to include the C1 models for 2021! ;P
Hello Everyone, first time poster here and i have a question regarding Dynamic Tone Mapping and HGIG. I have a 55 In. LG CX OLED, which is amazing by the way, but one thing im trying to figure out is that certain games don't have HDR settings that tell you what brightness, in nits that you want to set it to. Games like God of War 2018, which has a simple brightness and contrast slider but doesnt tell you how many nits you can set the slider to. It's either 0 ( Pitch black), or 100 ( Brightest). A lot of people here are saying to set the in-game slider to 800 nits and activate HGIG but how do i know what part of the slider is exactly 800 nits?..It doesn't tell you.So my question is should i set my tone mapping to Dynamic Tone Mapping or HGIG on games that don't tell you what nits you can set the slider to? Any help would be greatly appreciated as im still trying to figure this HDR stuff out. I'm still quite new to it.
Does this look good with 4K movies as well as games? Gonna get it set up for my PS5Alright, here it goes ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Your test patterns might not lie but you do. How can you say your test patterns aren't lying when you aren't even testing them on the TV models you are giving advice for.
Yeah sorry can't jive with this. You don't even own a display that supports HGIG or DTM in game mode so how can you be recommending what looks better to people?