RGB and YCbCr encode the image differently.
PC mode and Game mode are not mutually exclusive on these displays.
Having not really followers this thread for a while. What's the concensus now for the lg C9 of you still use that. Is it still HGIG and PC mode I've tried Dolby vision game mode and it seems to have abit more input lag noticeable on Far cry 6 and back 4 blood
I got mine pushed a few days ago, but I haven't checked settings to see if anything has changed. Thanks for the heads up, I'll have to check when I get home.
If budget is not a concern, a Ruipro fiber cable should work at that length.
So hgig PC mode and 800nit roll off is the way to go still
Zeskit has a 16ft thats works great for me for under $50 cdn on amazon. I have 4 of their cables in varying lengths and they all pass the test.
RGB and YCbCr encode the image differently.
RGB must use the full resolution for each channel (red, green, and blue) because anything less looks broken. This is equivalent to 4:4:4.
YCbCr splits the image into black & white (Luma, or Y) and color channels (Chroma difference, or CbCr).
By separating the two, it means that the resolution of the color signal can be reduced without having a significant impact on the image sharpness, since it overlays a sharp black and white image.
This saves bandwidth because our eyes do not have the same ability to see color detail as the do black and white detail.
- 4:4:4 uses full resolution Luma and Chroma channels.
- 4:2:2 uses full resolution Luma and half-resolution Chroma channels.
- 4:2:0 uses full resolution Luma and quarter-resolution Chroma channels.
Nearly all video files are encoded as 4:2:0 for example - even UHD Blu-rays.
Most televisions today work internally in YCC, and process the image in 4:2:2 by default - so even if you send them an RGB input, it is converted to YCC 422.
Some older TVs might even process the image in 4:2:0 (Pioneer Kuro Plasma TVs, for example).
Switching them to PC mode processes the image in 4:4:4, preserving the full resolution of an RGB or YCC 444 input; but it often disables many processing options that may be too taxing at that resolution, or reduces the precision of other processing.
Chroma resolution played a significant factor in image quality when gaming at lower resolutions.
When your image is 1080p, and the image is processed in 4:2:0, you only have 540p color resolution.
I remember games like Rez HD looking awful on the Xbox 360 at anything less than 4:4:4/RGB, since it was 720p.
But once you get to 4K, even 4:2:0 only lowers the chroma resolution to 1080p, so the impact is far less visible now.
Here's an old example from a Pioneer Kuro plasma in one of the Gran Turismo games on the PS3:
Note how fine details are blurred, and colors are dulled.
And with some 1px wide text:
Green is based on the Y channel (Luma) so it's sharper than red/blue in YCC signals - which matches how our vision works.
I believe LG's OLEDs process the image in 4:2:2 at all times, unless you switch them into PC mode.
If you're actually using the display with a computer, text should look much better in PC mode.
If you're using it for games, it may not make much difference most of the time.
I believe there was an issue where HDR (or was it 120Hz?) had more color banding outside of PC mode, but I think it was fixed in a recent update.
PC mode and Game mode are not mutually exclusive on these displays.
You can set the input label to "PC" and still switch to the Game Optimizer mode.
Hey mate watched your YouTube video about this thread...very informative lol. I have the c9 I've calibrated sdr with the xbox sdr calibration and for the black eye to disappear my brightness needs setting to 55. Would 55 then be whats needed in HDR too as there isn't the option to try see the brightness in HDR
I just watched the video and reading elsewhere I decided I reset all my inputs and the only thing I changed now is warm2 and that's if it wasn't already set to that.
That's the easiest thing to do, reset the inputs and copy all the settings from the cinema preset
Yeah I reset everything to the default settings then applied them to all inputs. Only things I've changed is warm2 for sdr and hdr game modes. Otherwise I'm keeping the out of the box settings.
You can use brightness contrast and colour too. Game mode bumps up saturation
Wait what else should I do? Thought the settings are perfectly fine without adjusting anything just using reset and not changing anything else.
I don't have the game, but try White Point 200 and HDR Brightness maxed out and see what happens.
Ok, that sounds to me as another bad HDR implementation as well...
In that case they could have just left it in SDR and let Auto HDR do its magic on Series X|S and PC now with Windows 11.
www.buydig.com
For what it's worth, a service remote is less than $10 on Amazon.
I would disable it again before making a warranty claim, if anything happens to the display.
I guess C8 needs to be the same as C9/CX/C1 in DV then.
You can use the "Apply Settings for All Inputs" button to speed up the config of that specific preset for all inputs (e.g. webOS, HDMI1, HDMI2, PC Mode etc.) but keep in mind that only the "General Settings" will be copied in all inputs, not the "Advanced" ones.
