The low res Xbox issued used to happen with my C1. Occured often enough with the full power down mode that I just did regular sleep mode.
I use the hybrid mode now. Where it sleeps during my usage hours and I haven't seen it happen for a long time now.
Any recommendations for cleaning the screen (C2). I got some kinda dust streak (thought it was scratch at first) as well as regular dust
Clean it the same way you'd clean any screen. Purchase some large microfiber cloths (I use a brand I picked up from my grocery store that's similar to these: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-CW190423-24-Pack-Microfiber-Cleaning/dp/B009FUF6DM/) and wipe left to right and right to left from one side of the screen to the other and move down the panel in rows as you swipe. Do one sweeping motion at a time, do not move the cloth back and forth in a single spot, always go from edge to edge as best you can. If you need to clean "hard spots" after you dust you can lightly moisten the cloth with distilled water before working those spots in a soft circular motion and then going back over them with a dry cloth. Just be sure to turn off the panel and allow it to cool for ~10-15 minutes to avoid streaking as the little bit of water that remains on the panel dries away. Never spray the screen directly with water and don't use other "glass cleaning" solvents as you can strip away protective layers on the panel.
This video goes over it too and shows the proper cleaning motions:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNlF7NLce7k
One you've got the technique down and know to just use plain distilled water and no other cleaners it won't feel as daunting. I definitely stressed about it when I got my first OLED in 2017 because I'd honestly never had a TV nice enough to bother maintaining before then lol. You'll do fine. 👍
Thanks..yeah before Id just let the dust build up. Not sure how I got some weird line of dust though.
I see thanks. What confused me also was that for SDR webOS you have 50 but for SDR game modes you have it at colour 55 in the table.
Difference between "non-Game" and "Game" presets for that Series also... ;)
Ah, swift response, lol.
Thanks for confirming, thought that might have been a typo.
Not sure if this is the best place to ask this but I have an LG C9 and looking to connect it to the Ethernet directly instead of WiFi. I understand the Ethernet port on the TV are capped at 100 mbps and I have a 300 mbps plan.
I bought a USB 3 to Ethernet adapter to connect to the TV to bypass this but the TV doesn't appear to recognize the Ethernet connection. It does recognize that an "unknown device is connected" and the internet does appear to work despite not recognizing in the settings but the speeds are worse than WiFi.
Any chance I could be doing something wrong?
I am using a gigabit Ethernet splitting and it's being used to connect to my PS5 as well with no issues and 300+ speeds.
I bought a USB 3 to Ethernet adapter to connect to the TV to bypass this but the TV doesn't appear to recognize the Ethernet connection. It does recognize that an "unknown device is connected" and the internet does appear to work despite not recognizing in the settings but the speeds are worse than WiFi.
Any chance I could be doing something wrong?
I am using a gigabit Ethernet splitting and it's being used to connect to my PS5 as well with no issues and 300+ speeds.
Still waiting on an answer for this, either from P40L0 or someone who's tried his MM settings on Remastered.
I don't have the game anymore, but if I recall correctly was HDR: On and Peak HDR Luminance up to 1.500 nits, so set it to 1.500 when using DTM or 800 nits with HGIG (1.000 for G2 or 1.500 for G3)
My TV finally arrived, but fuck FedEx. This required a signature, but not only did he not ring the bell, he just dropped the TV in the middle of the front yard. I wouldn't have even known it was here were it not for the loud thump and my dogs barking.
I also got sent the wrong TV. But it works in my favor, because they sent me a C3 instead of the C2 I ordered.
I also got sent the wrong TV. But it works in my favor, because they sent me a C3 instead of the C2 I ordered.
Costco has the 77 inch b3 on sale for 2k with 3 year warranty. Is the c3 worth the extra 600-700$? I've got a hdmi 2.1 reciever so the extra ports don't matter
v15 Changelog:
- TruMotion is recommended to "Cinematic Movement" (again): after latest firmware updates, "Cinematic Movement" is back to my top TruMotion recommendation for Movies as it provides the smoothest and clearest motion without introducing noticeable SoE (Soap Opera Effect);
- Sharpness is now recommended to 20 for Movies and 0 for Games: unless you mainly watch uncompressed 4K/HDR Blu-Ray Movies (where I still recommend Sharpness 0 for neutral value), Sharpness 20 will help in both upscaling and sharpening all other compressed/streaming contents without introducing haloing or shimmering. For Gaming, set it to 0 to further slightly improve input lag and avoid redundant overprocessing (as both Consoles and PC will already do the upscale + games already provide their native sharpening techniques);
- Super Resolution and Noise Reductions are now recommended to Low for Movies: as those provide tangible signal/picture improvement without any noticeable downside. Super Resolution is tied to the Sharpness value, so in the case of Sharpness 20 + Super Resolution: Low its effect is very minimal, but is nice to have for compressed/streaming contents. Turn it Off for Gaming in order to keep input lag low;
- Warm 50 is now the only recommended color temp: as starting from 2023 Series, LG really nailed the pre-calibrated temp out of the box and there's no need to use anything else;
- Xbox Refresh Rate is now recommended to 120hz for whom mostly play at 120fps and/or 40fps, while to 60hz for whom mostly play at 60fps and/or 30fps (both cases with VRR active): this mainly because
- @ 120hz + 60fps + VRR: many games have stuttering and/or flickering issues with VRR (Halo Infinite, Ghostwire Tokyo, Lies of P and many more). These are gone at 60hz + 60fps + VRR
- @ 120hz + 60fps + VRR: you would have more color banding in gradients. Those will be better at 60hz + 60fps + VRR
- @ 60hz + 60fps + VRR you would have very similar if not identical input lag compared to 120hz + 60fps + VRR
- Obviously, if you need/want to play at 120fps and/or using 40fps modes, you need to set the console to 120hz
- This doesn't affect PC, as for example G-Sync is always working better when Windows + NVCP are set to 120hz, along with all other PC Suggested Settings
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Thank you for your service 🫡
v15 Changelog:
- TruMotion is recommended to "Cinematic Movement" (again): after latest firmware updates, "Cinematic Movement" is back to my top TruMotion recommendation for Movies as it provides the smoothest and clearest motion without introducing noticeable SoE (Soap Opera Effect);
- Sharpness is now recommended to 20 for Movies and 0 for Games: unless you mainly watch uncompressed 4K/HDR Blu-Ray Movies (where I still recommend Sharpness 0 for neutral value), Sharpness 20 will help in both upscaling and sharpening all other compressed/streaming contents without introducing haloing or shimmering. For Gaming, set it to 0 to further slightly improve input lag and avoid redundant overprocessing (as both Consoles and PC will already do the upscale + games already provide their native sharpening techniques);
- Super Resolution and Noise Reductions are now recommended to Low for Movies: as those provide tangible signal/picture improvement without any noticeable downside. Super Resolution is tied to the Sharpness value, so in the case of Sharpness 20 + Super Resolution: Low its effect is very minimal, but is nice to have for compressed/streaming contents. Turn it down for Gaming in order to keep input lag low;
- Warm 50 is now the only recommended color temp: as starting from 2023 Series, LG really nailed the pre-calibrated temp out of the box and there's no need to use anything else;
- Xbox Refresh Rate is now recommended to 120hz for whom mostly play at 120fps and/or 40fps, while to 60hz for whom mostly play at 60fps and/or 30fps (both cases with VRR active): this mainly because
- @ 120hz + 60fps + VRR: many games have stuttering and/or flickering issues with VRR (Halo Infinite, Ghostwire Tokyo, Lies of P and many more). These are gone at 60hz + 60fps + VRR
- @ 120hz + 60fps + VRR: you would have more color banding in gradients. Those will be better at 60hz + 60fps + VRR
- @ 60hz + 60fps + VRR you would have very similar if not identical input lag compared to 120hz + 60fps + VRR
- Obviously, if you need/want to play at 120fps and/or using 40fps modes, you need to set the console to 120hz
- This doesn't affect PC, as for example G-Sync is always working better when Windows + NVCP are set to 120hz, along with all other PC Suggested Settings
Any updates to the pre-2023 models?
v15 Changelog:
- TruMotion is recommended to "Cinematic Movement" (again): after latest firmware updates, "Cinematic Movement" is back to my top TruMotion recommendation for Movies as it provides the smoothest and clearest motion without introducing noticeable SoE (Soap Opera Effect);
- Sharpness is now recommended to 20 for Movies and 0 for Games: unless you mainly watch uncompressed 4K/HDR Blu-Ray Movies (where I still recommend Sharpness 0 for neutral value), Sharpness 20 will help in both upscaling and sharpening all other compressed/streaming contents without introducing haloing or shimmering. For Gaming, set it to 0 to further slightly improve input lag and avoid redundant overprocessing (as both Consoles and PC will already do the upscale + games already provide their native sharpening techniques);
- Super Resolution and Noise Reductions are now recommended to Low for Movies: as those provide tangible signal/picture improvement without any noticeable downside. Super Resolution is tied to the Sharpness value, so in the case of Sharpness 20 + Super Resolution: Low its effect is very minimal, but is nice to have for compressed/streaming contents. Turn it Off for Gaming in order to keep input lag low;
- Warm 50 is now the only recommended color temp: as starting from 2023 Series, LG really nailed the pre-calibrated temp out of the box and there's no need to use anything else;
- Xbox Refresh Rate is now recommended to 120hz for whom mostly play at 120fps and/or 40fps, while to 60hz for whom mostly play at 60fps and/or 30fps (both cases with VRR active): this mainly because
- @ 120hz + 60fps + VRR: many games have stuttering and/or flickering issues with VRR (Halo Infinite, Ghostwire Tokyo, Lies of P and many more). These are gone at 60hz + 60fps + VRR
- @ 120hz + 60fps + VRR: you would have more color banding in gradients. Those will be better at 60hz + 60fps + VRR
- @ 60hz + 60fps + VRR you would have very similar if not identical input lag compared to 120hz + 60fps + VRR
- Obviously, if you need/want to play at 120fps and/or using 40fps modes, you need to set the console to 120hz
- This doesn't affect PC, as for example G-Sync is always working better when Windows + NVCP are set to 120hz, along with all other PC Suggested Settings
You can always write down the old values and change them back if you don't like them. Your eyes naturally adjust to color temperature changes pretty quickly.
Do you mean Color Temp? Are you using W40?
W50 on G3 is definitely an almost perfect match to reference D65 movie standard so you can give it a try and you should get accustomed very quickly to it coming from W40
I mean after using your previous settings.
Edit - also there is a new firmware out there (UK) 03.20.14. My TV just updated.
Edit 2 - I think I'm getting confused with colour depth. W50 has always been my setting so not sure why that has been flagged up as being a new change.
That's the only change I made to colors (removing the optional/preference suggestion of Warm 40, Warm 50 was the recommended one also before), so don't worry ;)
Man, I think my CX is already suffering from slight burn-in 2 and a half years after getting it. It's hardly noticeable, but once you notice a small line here and there it's hard not to think about it. Also, I noticed there are some dead pixels (?) by the right border, is that common? Can't really notice them during normal use, but they're there when the screen is completely white, for example.
Did you try a full Pixel Refresh ("after standby" option)?
Leave it doing its job for about 1 hour after you turn off the TV and see if things are improving.
How do you do that? 😮
Edit: Just found it, I've never done this on my TV lol, hope it helps a bit.
Good question, LG is keeping moving the option Series after Series for years.
I don't remember exactly on CX, but you should find it under OLED Care section -> Pixel Refresh or Pixel Cleaning -> click Start after standby or Start On Standby -> then Turn off the TV and wait 1 hour
It's on Picture > Screensaver for some reason lol, but I found it, it's running now. Thanks!
Christ, I'm pissed.
While watching a show on my C2, the sound suddenly stopped working. When I tried to restart the show, the screen went totally black. I could still open the menu and everything, but none of the HDMI inputs was working. They just showed a black screen and no sound.
So I unplugged the TV for a minute. Now I can see a picture again, but there's no sound coming out of my soundbar. It's working when switching to to TV speakers.
It's always defaulting to the built-in speakers when restarting it, as if it's not even recognizing the soundbar.
edit: Unplugging the soundbar did not fix it.
edit 2: Unplugging the HDMI cable did.
While watching a show on my C2, the sound suddenly stopped working. When I tried to restart the show, the screen went totally black. I could still open the menu and everything, but none of the HDMI inputs was working. They just showed a black screen and no sound.
So I unplugged the TV for a minute. Now I can see a picture again, but there's no sound coming out of my soundbar. It's working when switching to to TV speakers.
It's always defaulting to the built-in speakers when restarting it, as if it's not even recognizing the soundbar.
edit: Unplugging the soundbar did not fix it.
edit 2: Unplugging the HDMI cable did.
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Could owners of C9 and newer models (who know what they're doing) please verify if 480 signals scale correctly?
C8's overscans 480 signals by 2% on all sides. 'Just Scan' is set to off and greyed out, for only this signal type. This is irrespective of 4:3 or 16:9 content.
If you own one of the newer models and a known 480 device (PS3, base PS4, X360, etc), and have access to content or a pattern where you can definitely observe possible overscan, it would be great to see if this issue was resolved. You could also look to see what happens to the 'Just Scan' setting.
Thanks!
edit: I can't check rn, does anyone know if ColorControl app allows changing the locked out option for C8's as it does for other options..?
C8's overscans 480 signals by 2% on all sides. 'Just Scan' is set to off and greyed out, for only this signal type. This is irrespective of 4:3 or 16:9 content.
If you own one of the newer models and a known 480 device (PS3, base PS4, X360, etc), and have access to content or a pattern where you can definitely observe possible overscan, it would be great to see if this issue was resolved. You could also look to see what happens to the 'Just Scan' setting.
Thanks!
edit: I can't check rn, does anyone know if ColorControl app allows changing the locked out option for C8's as it does for other options..?
You sure it's undefeatable overscan and not just the pixel shift setting?
Yeah pixel shift is off. the fact it's 2% cleanly on all sides matching what just scan: off does, and that only for 480 will that setting grey out and be locked to off it's what's unusual. Wondering if the behaviour is the same on newer/other models
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Gonna do fidelity at 40 fps and not even switch to another mode until I'm done with the first playthrough lol. Definitely staying away from the 60 fps unlocked mode, the resolution drop DF noted is a bit more than I want to deal with.
Yeah I agree. I'll switch to performance VRR once I've completed the game and just wanna have fun swinging. Btw I normally turn off motion blur but for Fidelity VRR I think you need at least 4/10 motion blur for it to look smooth.
I played Miles in Performance RT and loved it. For SM2 I'll try the locked 40fps mode and if it feels weird I'll just unlock the framerate. Then, if framerate dips are too frequent I'll just go with locked 60fps.
This might be a bit of a niche question, but are the settings tied to the input or the device connected?
For example, if I was to swap out my XBox with a PS5 on the same HDMI port, does it keep the settings or do I have to go in and adjust everything? I'm guessing the only thing I would need to change is the flavour of VRR In the game optimiser menu?
For example, if I was to swap out my XBox with a PS5 on the same HDMI port, does it keep the settings or do I have to go in and adjust everything? I'm guessing the only thing I would need to change is the flavour of VRR In the game optimiser menu?
Should be input-based (not device based) but I would still dedicate a different port for each device.
I would also still double check settings after changing devices using the same port to be sure.
I'm gonna wait a day for Spider-Man and wait to play on the OLED haha