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Yeah, it's the perfect spot on consoles for non-competitive games.
It's unfortunate very few games have it...
So I bit the bullet and ordered a LG C4 42". I'll be using it as my pc monitor mostly to game on. Anything I should know? I haven't owned an OLED before specifically, although I did own an old (circa 2012) Panny Plasma. Any set up tips? Things I should know concerning burn in, using it as a monitor, etc?
Everything you need is in the OP (which is always updated).
Do you intend to use it as a main monitor, or just media/games? You can consider hiding your taskbar and either using a black wallpaper (double check it's pure black with a color picker) or something that isn't static. You can also make use of the screen off feature, which can be quickly used with voice commands, which will turn off the screen but not the entire TV (for purposes of Windows not freaking out and changing monitor orientations etc.)
If you're sensitive to input latency and play competitive games, set up a game optimizer preset in addition to FMM, as you may notice the increased input latency in FMM.
If you have any weird issues, even things like headphone static, ensure you have a proper HDMI cable (Zeskit Maya is a good choice).
Fucking hell, that looks amazing 😅 Move the C1 downstairs, G4 for gaming room/office would be amazing. I don't dare look how much a UK G4 55" is though…
Yeah itll be my main monitor. I have a black desktop background already and i plan on hiding the icons. im not toooooo worried about burn in (im hearing OLEDs are pretty safe/resilient now, but still, dont wanna chance anything silly.
Thanks for the info!
Thanks, I'll check it out and dig in. Appreciate the info!
LG OLEDs only have 100 Mbit Ethernet ports but had WiFi 5 (average 200 Mbps) through the 2022 models and WiFi 6 (600-900 Mbps) on 2023 and later models so that's where the recommendation comes from. WiFi speeds are totally dependent on connection strength though, you can get lower speeds with poor connections and a bad enough connection can lead to packet loss that would result in buffering on streaming content. The actual best option for connecting an LG OLED is a USB to Gigabit Ethernet adapter.
Most streaming applications like Netflix, Disney+, Amazon Video, etc. don't really need faster than 100 Mbps connection speeds as their data rates are quite low for their content and would benefit more from the connection stability of Ethernet vs the throughput of WiFi. It's when you get into things like streaming a Plex library where the bitrates can get much higher and 100 Mbps may not be enough for the highest quality 4K content with lossless audio and that's where an adapter comes into play.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIef8iRZhLE&t=445s
the ethernet port is limited to 100mbps while wifi can support higher is what I imagine the reasoning is
it might matter if you stream very high quality plex rips, but you should have no issues with stream services on ethernet
Thanks guys, I think I'll stick with WiFi then. Disney+ Hotstar is the only one I've had trouble with and that's probably more to do with the app itself.
I've been using C3 for about a week with my PC and PS5 and so far I love the picture quality but there are some minor annoyances that, while not dealbreakers, would be pretty nice if they can be fixed. Most of these are from when using it as a PC monitor.
- Auto dimming: this is super minor since so far I only had this issue with 1-2 sites I rarely used though it would really suck if this affects more than that. This is mostly when I'm reading some web novels on a somewhat bright background. For some reason the dark mode of those sites made the background brown-ish instead of black (I don't have this problem with black or grey background) and even with constant scrolling, the screen would dim after a while. It would stop dimming when I move the mouse around or quickly scroll the page up and down. I think the only OLED panel care settings I still have on are the logo one at medium and screen shift and I turned off all power saving settings.
- Audio pass through: I have my soundbar (Samsung N850 with rear speakers) connected to the TV via HDMI ARC and set it to Bitstream and pass through. I don't have issues with video with Dolby Atmos, etc. so it actually does pass through stuff but I don't think games output surround sound properly. Windows only detected 2 channels and I'm not sure if the games just see that and decide to only output stereo or what. It's similar with PS5. I used to connect my PC and PS5 directly to sound bar (can't do that now because the soundbar doesn't support HDMI 2.1) and they had correct directional sound back then, now it feels more 200-ish degrees instead of the usual 360. For PS5, I only tried with FFVII Rebirth but I remember being pretty impressed with how the sounds are coming from the different directions back before I changed to my current setup but now it's more front loaded.
- Turning off (or turning on) the soundbar causes the screen to flicker (just turn off then on, not constant flickering). This is especially annoying because my soundbar has auto power off when there's no signal (apparently there's no option to turn this off in D.input and ARC mode from what I gathered) so it'd turn itself off while I read stuff or browsing sites with no sound and the screen would just turn off and on and it's super annoying. My previous Samsung TV doesn't do this so I'm wondering if there's anyway to prevent soundbar turning on or off to affect the TV.
- Auto dimming: this is super minor since so far I only had this issue with 1-2 sites I rarely used though it would really suck if this affects more than that. This is mostly when I'm reading some web novels on a somewhat bright background. For some reason the dark mode of those sites made the background brown-ish instead of black (I don't have this problem with black or grey background) and even with constant scrolling, the screen would dim after a while. It would stop dimming when I move the mouse around or quickly scroll the page up and down. I think the only OLED panel care settings I still have on are the logo one at medium and screen shift and I turned off all power saving settings.
- Audio pass through: I have my soundbar (Samsung N850 with rear speakers) connected to the TV via HDMI ARC and set it to Bitstream and pass through. I don't have issues with video with Dolby Atmos, etc. so it actually does pass through stuff but I don't think games output surround sound properly. Windows only detected 2 channels and I'm not sure if the games just see that and decide to only output stereo or what. It's similar with PS5. I used to connect my PC and PS5 directly to sound bar (can't do that now because the soundbar doesn't support HDMI 2.1) and they had correct directional sound back then, now it feels more 200-ish degrees instead of the usual 360. For PS5, I only tried with FFVII Rebirth but I remember being pretty impressed with how the sounds are coming from the different directions back before I changed to my current setup but now it's more front loaded.
- Turning off (or turning on) the soundbar causes the screen to flicker (just turn off then on, not constant flickering). This is especially annoying because my soundbar has auto power off when there's no signal (apparently there's no option to turn this off in D.input and ARC mode from what I gathered) so it'd turn itself off while I read stuff or browsing sites with no sound and the screen would just turn off and on and it's super annoying. My previous Samsung TV doesn't do this so I'm wondering if there's anyway to prevent soundbar turning on or off to affect the TV.
The settings menu on my C2 has gotten crazy laggy. Turning off the TV completely fixes the menu for a little bit but then it turns extremely laggy again. Started happening after the update a couple of weeks ago. I've also tried the memory wipe thing but that doesn't fix anything.
It does not lag in the home menu or the actual os, only in the settings and game optimizer menus.
It does not lag in the home menu or the actual os, only in the settings and game optimizer menus.
For the autodimming you can try to also turn off the Log Adjustment, but TPC/GSR now correctly work as they are intended so you the TV will notice you're staring to a static image/background/text it will start to progressively dim to avoid image retention/burn in. As soon as you move the mouse or just scroll the page a bit it will fully recover.
Also make sure to have everything as suggested in the OP both for the TV and PC.
For the audio/soundbar I can't help as I don't use that model so you should search on Google/Reddit on how to properly setup it in Windows.
I also noticed some settings' menu lag after a while, but honestly you shouldn't change them anymore once everything is setup for every input and SDR/HDR/DV (both for movies and games).
I just had my S90C delivered yesterday and it's connected to my gaming PC. I put it into game mode so that I could run GSYNC, but if I try and increase the refresh rate above 60hz the Desktop Resolution will stay at 4k, but the Active Signal Resolution will drop to 1080p and the TV info identifies the signal as 1080p. Does this TV only do 120hz at 1080p or am I doing something wrong?
I'd be fine if it recovers by scrolling the page a bit. I do scroll down constantly because I'm reading paragraphs of text but the TV probably still sees that as static so it'd dim and it would only recover when I repeatedly scroll up and down or move the mouse around, which is kinda annoying to do when I'm reading. I've googled about this a bit and saw some people even having this issue while watching something like Dune so I guess the TV has a pretty broad definition of what it considers static.
As for the audio setup, I did look around and, while I didn't find the result for this specific model, I saw a bunch of people having similar issue. Some can fix it with just setting the output to Bitstream+Pass Through (which is my current setting) while the others recommended using CRU to force the Windows to output 5.1, 7.1 audio to the TV, which I tried but it just makes things worse because now the audio that's supposed to play on the back speakers would just get cut off as if there's no channel for it to play on. My current setup do pass through properly (I guess?) as stuff like DTS and Dolby Atmos can be pass through to the soundbar and played correctly, just that some games (and windows) only recognize 2 channels.
Also, anything on my last issue about turning ARC device on/off causing the screen to flash (it's like it the screen turn off for 1-2 seconds)? I guess it flashes because it's switching the output so is there any setting that prevent it from switching the output automatically?
That's one issue I can't seem to find anyone talking about and I've been running into this issue everyday because I use this as a monitor and it's driving me crazy. It's half the fault of my soundbar not allowing disabling auto-power off and I saw a lot of complaints about that but I wouldn't mind it as much if the screen doesn't flash when the soundbar turn off by itself. My current work around is to just turn the soundbar off myself if I know I'm not playing any audio for a while but that's not ideal.
You will still get screen dimming even when playing games, I saw it happen frequently on Baldur's Gate 3 when there was a ton UI elements on screen during some late game fights. This is without logo dimming on.
Windows sound and surround sound is a real pain in the ass to deal with. Just a huge pile of crap. When I first got the TV and hooked up my laptop Windows found my surround sound and it worked fine. Got a desktop a few months ago and it also worked fine until one day it stopped. Went into Windows sound config and I was now only getting Stereo or Atmos. I don't want Atmos as it doesn't work well on Windows nor do most games use it. Had to do the CRU thing to get those options back after they randomly disappeared.
The ARC thing you see is 100% a LG issue as I have seen the same thing and I have no clue why LG is so bad at eARC/ARC support. Makes no sense why the TV needs to do this anytime a soundbar is turned on and off. Had to buy a new soundbar because my old Vizio soundbar would very randomly turn off, and on any other TV it's fine, you just turn the soundbar back on. On this thing it was far worse as you lost signal for a few seconds when it turned off and when it turned back on.
Never experienced this on my G3 and I regularly use it with my PC every day now.
The dimming happens but only on real static scenes, but as soon as something moves it goes back to normal as it should.
Are you sure you're on latest firmware version + followed all the suggestions in the OP?
I'll have to check the setting for TPC/GSR later but otherwise it should be pretty much as the suggestions in the OP.
Firmware should also be latest but I've seen people saying that sometimes they had to manually download and install the firmware from the website instead of using the built in updater so I'll check that later too.
With latest firmware there's no more need to access the Service Menu and change/disable TPC/GSR as LG fixed them from 2022 models and newer.
Randomly found out that I can use my C3's remote's pointer to control my phone instead of the touchscreen during screen mirroring. Feels like black magic lol.
This is perfect for my use case. I play a lot of mobile games and most of them have story section in visual novel format and I usually use screen mirroring to play those on my TV so being able to use the remote instead of having to reach for my phone and look away from the TV makes everything easier.
Too bad this doesn't work with my iPad. Haven't tested with my other phones but works perfectly with Samsung's Smart View.
This is perfect for my use case. I play a lot of mobile games and most of them have story section in visual novel format and I usually use screen mirroring to play those on my TV so being able to use the remote instead of having to reach for my phone and look away from the TV makes everything easier.
Too bad this doesn't work with my iPad. Haven't tested with my other phones but works perfectly with Samsung's Smart View.
Just checked and my C3's firmware is 03.30.73 which I assume is the latest version?
It could just work differently on the C3. Definitely no dimming in the same circumstances on my G3.