If everything is setup as the config Profiles in the OP and the blackouts still happen then, yes, it should be a bandwidth cap issue and unfortunately is highly possible it's a cable fault...
I'm having the same issues with my C7 after getting a new Huawei Q22 set-top-box. Some times there are drop outs/flickers/grey ''snow'' effects once per day, other times it can happen after several days. What solves it is unticking/ticking ULTRA HDMI Deep Color to make it handshake again. After that it stays stable the rest of the day.
They did actually update DV to latest version with latest 5.80.xx firmware, but without the USB adjustments DV Cinema was still overly dark by default, so it's still recommended to calibrate it.
No, if you want to do the WB calibration you necessarily need to also apply the USB configuration file, otherwise the calibration would be partial.
He did, and the projector had the same results of the 8-bit selection but, trust me, results are different, at least in SDR.
Ok firstly 4:2:2 chroma doesn't even work in SDR on an Xbox One, it will ALWAYS output RGB, regardless of whether the 4:2:2 box is ticked or not, it only has any meaning in HDR games:
Leaving it like this will mean you get RGB encoding, with an auto switch to 10bit 4:2:0 encoding for HDR.
If you choose 10 or 12bit depth for SDR, you will only have 4:2:0 chroma no matter what.
This is the Xbox auto switching to HDR with 8bit enabled.
4:2:2 chroma only enabled in HDR, but I personally don't recommend it, as you got way more colour banding in gradients, these games are set up for 4:2:0.
The purer white was only meant to have an impact in HDR anyway with 12bit, but if you go down that route you'll literally have to change your settings every time you switch from HDR to an SDR game, and you are very unlikely to see any difference from 10-12 honestly.
LG OLED 2017. Will double check again later to confirm it's still the same.
Yeah, 8-bit remains the recommended value.
Unfortunately that is the "jail bar" panel defect most these TVs have on 5% Grey backgrounds.
Yeah, the reality is that Full RGB and 4:4:4 are signals that belong to real PC/Monitor usage only, as all consumer console/receiver/set-top-box/player and all TV/Movie/Console Game contents are created with Standard Color Space in mind.
You shouldn't worry as those are not "jail bars" or other panel defects.
Will try different Win10 settings later. Switching between my monitor and the TV is annoying.
I think you're looking in the wrong place; this is for LG 2017 OLEDs (not a PC monitor) and Xbox One X (not a PC).
Nope. I play on LG B7 via Steam big picture. :)
4.000 nits in-game setting is recommended only for regular HDR Game Mode.
8 months ago all HDR Modes of PC Input were totally bugged, with corrupt color gamuts and banding everywhere.
Probably yes, but I'm not 100% sure for 2018 models.
Using PC HDR (any mode) coupled with 422 still results in massive banding today.
Yeah, sorry, I was recommending to not use PC Input in general for everyone, not answering to you specifically. My bad ^^
Full RGB / 4:4:4 should only be achieveable in PC Mode?
For SDR the Full RGB + 8-bit (and selecting High Black Level on the TV) will work properly and will be better.
No, I changed nothing with the cabling and it worked fine before.
