-
Ever wanted an RSS feed of all your favorite gaming news sites? Go check out our new Gaming Headlines feed! Read more about it here.
-
We have made minor adjustments to how the search bar works on ResetEra. You can read about the changes here.
As said before, Netflix webOS app is currently bugged/dimmed in DV Cinema after latest 5.80.xx firmware.
The best workaround to obtain the brightness again is to switch to DV Home Cinema profile instead (leaving this profile values to its default, except for Noise Reductions to disable and TruMotion to set to User 0,0), or using Netflix app with calibrated DV Cinema profile but from an HDMI source as Xbox One X or Apple TV (Dolby Vision luminance is the same as before there).
So I finally tried hooking up a game console to my TV for the first time (a Switch) and used the SDR settings in this thread. However, even with Dynamic Contrast and other settings set to off (I double checked), I'm experiencing gradual changes in overall contrast that seems reactive to what is displayed on screen; you can visibly see overall contrast bright and darken as message boxes appear and disappear, or when moving from a brightly lit scene to a dark one. It was pretty intensely noticeable and I'm not sure if it's the TV doing it somehow or something inherent to the Switch itself. Any assistance is appreciated!
If you dialed in correctly all the SDR Game settings there are no dynamic contrast or dynamic adjustments at all, TV wise (except maybe the Automatic Brightness Limiter that could trigger more often if you pumped up the OLED Light value over 80, to avoid burn in)
I would double check the Switch video option for some fancy software video post processing setting, and I would disable it once found.
As far as I can tell there's no configurable option on the Switch that has this effect. I do think the picture is very, very bright. If I wanted to turn the OLED Light setting down (to 50-60ish perhaps) how would that affect the other values?
ABL is a TV "feature" that applies to all picture modes and inputs.
It will automatically decrease brightness/luminance when a "too much bright" content is detected (as a total white background), and this happens especially increasing OLED Light value to max (in SDR).
It's the only remaining automatic PQ behaviour if you're using my suggested settings for SDR Game profiles, as there no other dynamic features enabled for that profile.
If you try decreasing OLED Light to 50-60, you won't see the ABL working as often, or maybe you won't see it at all.
My question was more, if I lower the OLED Light setting then how should the other values change to maintain a somewhat accurate calibration?
You can freely change "OLED Light" value based on your room light condition and on your preference, as it will only alter the "luminance" of the display (not the brightness of the picture).
PQ accuracy will be the same.
Metro Exodus has an new update patch 1.04 which supposedly solves the dark gamma issues for X1X.
I can finaly see the third tringle in the video options and you can now choose from 3 color space settings, SRGB, Rec. 709 and SRGB limited!
I have a 65B7V running V5.5 and tried messing around with the new video options but nothing realy fixed the crushed blacks.
Has anyone tried messing around and figured something out?
P4OLO will you get a chance to try the new options?
I can finaly see the third tringle in the video options and you can now choose from 3 color space settings, SRGB, Rec. 709 and SRGB limited!
I have a 65B7V running V5.5 and tried messing around with the new video options but nothing realy fixed the crushed blacks.
Has anyone tried messing around and figured something out?
P4OLO will you get a chance to try the new options?
I will get and test Exodus for sure...after beating two backlog "monsters" as AC: Odyssey and RDR2. They're so BIG and I have so much less time to play recently, but I will.
From the 3 profiles you mentioned I would certainly pick Rec. 709 for SDR.
HDR should automatically switch to Rec. 2020 as the HDR standards require anyway.
If you're using my latest HDR Game profile settings (based on Medium DC), the only in-game HDR Settings you could tweak are generally HDR Brightness (to leave at it's default most of the time) and HDR Luminance (to increase to 4.000 note if possible).
All the other Brightness in-game settings should only matter for SDR, and should be left alone.
Last edited:
haha yes they are massive, I couldn't go on playing RDR2 for that reason. Metro is more approachable size-wise.
I'm playing metro in HDR
After I applied the patch the game settings had SRGB as default.
So do you think SRGB = Rec. 2020 ?
Checking this on google is a bit confusing because I found SRGB and Rec .709 cover the same color space on the triangle. One would assume they are different since in Metro you have the option to choose one or the other.
Also another article mentions SRGB is not meant for HDR games.
And what on earth is SRGB limited ? Don't understand why game developers dont explain what the settings are for, we're not all professional calibrators.
Yes I am using your latest HDR settings with Medium DC (they are awesome by the way thanks).
Unfortunately Metro does not have a HDR luminance setting, just a gamma setting, and now the 3 color space options after the patch.
Yeah, SRGB and Rec.709 refer to SDR only, and Rec.709 is the standard reference for Blu-Rays, most games and LG OLEDs SDR Game profile.
The gamma in-game setting you see most probably refer to SDR only.
If there are no other in-game HDR controls, I wouldn't touch SDR settings to alter HDR or you could create artefacts or loose HDR accuracy.
The slight black crush you see it may even be a game design decision in the end.
DV Home cinéma don't look right at all. I'd rather use the dimmed DV cinema than cinema Home.
I installed Netflix on my X as a work around, but it's not perfect neither as I have to unplug the X from the HD fury Linker and still have to use internal Netflix app for SDR content...
Is there any discussion about the bug somewhere? I wonder if LG will ever fix this bug...
Yeah, this was widely discussed on AVSForums, and yes, as LG kept 2016 models updated with major changes even after 2 years since launch, hopefully they could actually fix it by the end of the year.
Just a quick update/tip for games that have in-game HDR Controls, for LG 2017 OLEDs:
- Set HDR Luminance to 4.000 nits (this was already suggested)
- Set Paper White to 250 nits (this is a new suggestion, and it's the most accurate value I tested in most games that have this option)
When using calibrated HDR Game Mode and X1X, I found consistency in all games that specifically let you adjust "Luminance" in "nits" value of 4.000 (e.g. AC Odyssey, AC Origins, Forza Horizon 4, which have among the best game HDR implementation as of today), where "logos in white boxes" were fully hidden by the highlight, while still preserving detail on dark areas.
In other AAA games that can only reach 2.000 nits max (as BFV, RE7, Forza Horizon 3, Forza 7 and more), you can clearly see that logos cannot be fully hidden, this because HDR Game is optimized for higher nits contents as Blu-Rays.
Paper White is also consistent for the very few games that let you customize this setting (e.g. AC Odyssey, AC Origin), and setting it to 250 will make in-game menus and night scenes less dim, and with proper luminance both for a dark and dim room.
Finally, there are a lot of other games that won't specifically offer HDR settings in "nits", but generally the best results will be raising HDR Luminance slider to max, and leaving alone regular Brightness (meant for SDR).
If this won't work, a bit of custom manual in-game calibration has to be made for that specific game.
Is there any recommended settings for the Sekiro in-game brightness options for the HDR Game mode on the LG 2017 OLED?
EvilBoris ? It seems most games you can't just blanket pick like this.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, it entirely depends on the game and what the developers have targeted as paper white.
For some it is 100, for others it will be 200.
As time goes on that value will increase as displays get brighter.
The 7 series are underbrught for game's, so going above the normal by 20-50nits isn't a bad idea.
The annoying thing with OLEDs, games and brightness is that if you have something on screen that is meant to be paper white (taking up a large on screen area) then the APL will never go above 150nits anyway. This is the argument for keeping the paperwhite lower, to allow for the overhead for values above that.
A bunch of those games listed are actually hitting 10knits (ForzaH3 and 7) so some of that information there isn't quite correct.
Yeah, it entirely depends on the game and what the developers have targeted as paper white.
For some it is 100, for others it will be 200.
As time goes on that value will increase as displays get brighter.
The 7 series are underbrught for game's, so going above the normal by 20-50nits isn't a bad idea.
The annoying thing with OLEDs, games and brightness is that if you have something on screen that is meant to be paper white (taking up a large on screen area) then the APL will never go above 150nits anyway. This is the argument for keeping the paperwhite lower, to allow for the overhead for values above that.
A bunch of those games listed are actually hitting 10knits (ForzaH3 and 7) so some of that information there isn't quite correct.
Do you have a source for this, or a link where I could read about it? I tested it out yesterday watching the highwaymen on the webos app and my x and it looked the same to me.
Strange, it's very obvious. I'm kind abummed that I already saw Roma two times with the dimmed DV mode. The full brightness of the HDMI input makes some scenes really stand out.
Exactly.
Simply switching the same TV Show or Movie from webOS to X1X Netflix app will make DV Cinema luminance difference evident.
I did that with the highwaymen and couldn't tell the difference. I'll try it with sabrina tonight. Is the webos vudu app affected?
Very small update:
HDR Game profile updated to v5.5.1:
EDIT/UPDATE: On AVSForums, professional calibrators have just put up completely revamped settings both for SDR/HDR/DV + a new Custom DV Calibration file after LG 5.80.xx firmwares. I'm going to spend next days to test them, and let you know if they're worth an upgrade to the OP settings or not. Have a good easter ;)
HDR Game profile updated to v5.5.1:
- Brightness raised from default 50 to 52 in order to offset very minor black crush (caused by Dynamic Contrast: MEDIUM) on some 4K/HDR BluRays (e.g. Avengers: Infinity War), while preserving OLED True Black. Now the HDR Game profile is basically identical to calibrated HDR Technicolor Expert (with Active HDR) 99% of the time, while reproducing all kinds of contents.
EDIT/UPDATE: On AVSForums, professional calibrators have just put up completely revamped settings both for SDR/HDR/DV + a new Custom DV Calibration file after LG 5.80.xx firmwares. I'm going to spend next days to test them, and let you know if they're worth an upgrade to the OP settings or not. Have a good easter ;)
Last edited:
Thanks for the settings P40L0, I really enjoy using them. I can't find your settings for AC Odyssey, did you play it ?
Should the settings work well enough with a LG B6?
Also about a year ago I read that I should not update my firmware anymore a sit causes latency issues on the B6. Was this solved and am I able to update to the latest firmware an use the settings here? LG B6 55" EU model in my case.
This does make it sounds like I should be fine?
https://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1531211906
Also about a year ago I read that I should not update my firmware anymore a sit causes latency issues on the B6. Was this solved and am I able to update to the latest firmware an use the settings here? LG B6 55" EU model in my case.
This does make it sounds like I should be fine?
https://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1531211906
ULTIMATE EDIT:
Please not that this re-calibration goes in-depth also for all White Balance + CMS values, so do not forget to also update those sections when possible (and do not forget to also update the entire DV profile using the new USB Patch!)
Then give those completely fresh settings a try and let me know what you think... ;)
- ALL PROFILES UPDATED TO V7 ULTIMATE
- Firmware 5.80.xx or above is required
- Completely new re-calibration of all SDR/HDR/DV picture modes with new tools and after 4.000+ hours usage
- New Dolby Vision Custom Calibration file to apply via USB patch (updated on April 2019)
- HDR Game mode back to a new custom profile based on HIGH Dynamic Contrast to match the new improvements
- Added new in-game HDR suggested settings
Please not that this re-calibration goes in-depth also for all White Balance + CMS values, so do not forget to also update those sections when possible (and do not forget to also update the entire DV profile using the new USB Patch!)
Then give those completely fresh settings a try and let me know what you think... ;)
Last edited:
I just added completely new picture modes' settings and also AC Odyssey settings to the OP ;)
2016 models just got a "roll-back" HDR Game patch that restored the old "HDR Standard-like" tone mapping (that goes up to 1.000 nits, and then just clips everything that goes above that luminance).
Therefore I think the 2017 settings are not so compatible anymore (but you can just give them a try, except the White Balance/CMS sections, and adjust from there)...
So to update is fine but I should rather stick with my settings based on Digital Foundry?
Well. I know what I will do this evening. xD
Great that you are using the Technicolor mode so I dont have to touch my old settings for isf dark and bright and can switch between them for comparison.
Last edited:
So why go back to DC high again? Back and forth, did something change? Software update?
How come in 12 hours you go from "HDR Brightness raised from default 50 to 52" to changing pretty much everything again. Doesn't make sense.
Edit: Did you make all these changes because the picture quality/colors are more acurate or because you prefer the brighter image in DC high? If that's the case i'll stick with a more dim picture with DC medium
Thanks
How come in 12 hours you go from "HDR Brightness raised from default 50 to 52" to changing pretty much everything again. Doesn't make sense.
Edit: Did you make all these changes because the picture quality/colors are more acurate or because you prefer the brighter image in DC high? If that's the case i'll stick with a more dim picture with DC medium
Thanks
Last edited:
I'm thinking of getting one of these sets once the 2019 sets come out with HDMI 2.1. Any one dealing with burn in?
I made these overhauls because the super reliable AVSFroums' user "sonoftumble" (which provided the baseline of my settings in the past) re-did all 2017 OLEDs calibrations using most recent tools and software and with 2017 panels that surpassed 4.000 hours of usage.
HDR Game was therefore updated to match the new (noticeably improved) results.
As long as you won't keep it always powered on watching CNN (or things with static logos) for an average of 8 hours a day (every day, for months) then, no, you won't experience any permanent burn in.
Yes, you can update if you want to use an HDR Tone Mapping similar to what 2016 models had on launch (and similar to HDR Standard mode), but then you can't use the suggested HDR Game settings for 2017 models.
For old (and now rolled back) 2016 HDR Game and HDR Standard I would try:
OLED Light 100
Contrast 100
Brightness 49
Color 44
Color Temperature W40
Dynamic Contrast OFF
Color Gamut WIDE
Gamma MEDIUM
Noise Reductions OFF
Black Level LOW
Real Cinema, TruMotion, Motion EyeCare OFF
No, don't apply the 2017 White Balance and CMS values to 2018 models, nor the DV USB patch (that won't work).
Also for 2018 HDR Game, don't use Dynamic Contrast but use Dynamic Tone Mapping instead.
You can try to apply the general SDR/HDR Technicolor and DV Cinema settings tho.
Because after re-calibration of SDR Technicolor with newer and more accurate external equipment and software, the 53 value gave better results (without raising true blacks).
SDR Game is based on ISF Dark Room preset, which is also the base of SDR Technicolor, therefore the accuracy improvement can be extended also there.
Sure, here you can find the sonftumble's re-calibration post.
Keep in mind that I used his refresh as a new baseline, but after personal testing I further changed some bits.
Also consider he is not covering SDR/HDR Game mode.
Some "image retention" can happen if you leave the TV on with static HUD for 30 minutes or more, but it goes away very quickly just watching different things after that.
No "permanent burn-in" after 2 years tho (LG 55B7V)