Love your work! Would be great if you could save multiple settings for the same input for easy comparison.
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Love your work! Would be great if you could save multiple settings for the same input for easy comparison.
New to this thread and there is a looot to take in. That said, I have a B7 and a PS4 Pro. Would anyone mind sharing what the current "ideal" settings are for it? And I guess I just follow what's on the OP for the webOS settings? Where do I get this USB calibration file, and how do I install that? Thanks for any help you can offer!
Supposedly it was dim, I couldn't tell the difference though when comparing it to the xbox's netflix dv.
With the new Dolby Vision preset now Cinema mode looks brighter (good!) but also has a blue tint all over the image that's not there on Cinema Home. Is that right?
Also, do I have to update the Dolby Vision preset both in webOS and HDMI inputs? I could do it on my Apple TV HDMI port but now the profile update pop-up doesn't appear again on webOS.
Also, do I have to update the Dolby Vision preset both in webOS and HDMI inputs? I could do it on my Apple TV HDMI port but now the profile update pop-up doesn't appear again on webOS.
sonftuble on AVSForum specifically states that his OLED panel had seen blue fall off, so I wonder if his calibration settings (which P40L0's settings are based on) is overcompensating for blue as a result. P40L0 thoughts?
I would do that, but those links are so spread right now (AVSForums, Reddit, Era and more) that most people saved to their favorites as a reference, and use them also to check progression and improvement along the line. It would be distruptive to fragment files for each update.
Yes, you can also apply the settings for PS4 Pro (use the suggested SDR/HDR Game settings for mixed usage with gaming and movies).
Just set PS4 Pro video settings to RGB Limited, and all the rest to Auto.
Yes!
I can confirm that the new webOS Netflix update fixed the dimming, and now the app is back as good and as bright as it was before, and on par to the HDMI versions (e.g. X1X, AppleTV ones). Great!
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The "blue tint" you see it's just temporary as your eyes are probably adjusting to the new calibration which has a slightly colder temperature compared to previous one (that's why SDR/HDR Game modes have now W40 as a suggestion), this because the previous one suffered of a real "yellow tint" on default Warm2/W50 temperature.
As soon as your eyes will adapt (30 minutes average), you won't see blue anymore and you will enjoy the best PQ ever achieved with these TVs ;)
The DV USB patch must be applied only once (no matter what input you're using that time) and it will work/load for all inputs from there on, no need to patch every input.
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I actually meant on the TV itself, all good cheers :) Updated to the latest settings, hopefully no game graphics glitches from the high DC gaming setting...I did see some occasion strange things when it used high DC in prior updates.
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WebOS app is still super dim. Just checked and it is not fixed.
Thanks for the update P40L0, don't know if I will try the new settings yet. My panel has less than 1000 hours and I'm happy with my current setup.
It's definitely not as dim as before now, and very comparable to the X1X app.
Maybe it's your new DV profile, but it's exactly the same as before the Netflix update on my set.
Try Cinema Home instead of just Cinema. Much brighter and looks better overall to me.
Wide Color Gamut in HDR Game mode fixes the High Dynamic Contrast color washing issues with Auto gamut.
Color at 48 fixes the Wide Gamut oversaturation.
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Ah okay, thanks. I prefer my picture less warm than your settings so does adjusting that mean other settings would need to be tweaked ?
No accuracy issues in altering the Color Temperature for your liking.
Just keep in mind that standard/cinema reference is Warm2/W40-50, this mainly for dark rooms viewing, avoiding blue light and eye strain for prolonged periods of time.
Making the picture "colder" could look better to you, but could increase the fatigue for your eyes on the long term, plus you could see jarring differences in color temperature with other devices you use (Laptop, Smartphone) with a reference/warm display temperature by default (e.g. those could look totally yellow to you for around 30 minutes, if you're eyes were trained for the colder temperature before).
If you are still experiencing a dim Dolby Vision on webOS, give a try to "Dolby Vision (Game)" profile as a workaround.
I know it seems wrong, but if you set the DV Game profile the same as calibrated DV Cinema (except OLED Light to leave at 50 instead of 55), you will get a very bright image with an almost identical accuracy.
I was switching inputs between my X and the webos app yesterday for about 10 minutes and there's no difference at all between them. Maybe the last netflix update broke something with the custom profile that you guys were using before but the default dv profile never looked dimmer than the xbox version of netflix. That probably also explains why there wasn't an uproar over the update. Seriously, googling dim netflix oled b7 leads you nowhere.
Try DV Game profile instead of DV Cinema (just copy its settings, except OLED Light to bring back to 50).
Just made some improvements on top of new V7 profiles (which are now based on new "sonoftumble" re-calibration), bringing them to V7.1:
Changelog:
Changelog:
- SDR Technicolor and SDR Game brightness lowered a bit from 53 to 51 (after noticing very slightly raised black in some patterns);
- X1X Only: DV Cinema was switched with DV Game profile by default (with mostly same settings and basically identical PQ and Luminance to calibrated DV Cinema, but with 21ms input lag and same good motion): this was done to "future-proof" in case someday Microsoft will allow Dolby Vision gaming on X1X or Next-Gen Xbox One to be released next year, while still providing great PQ for Streaming TV/Movies;
- HDR Technicolor White Balance was reset to its default as I noticed a blue tint with new sonoftumble's values, and a yellow tint with older ones;
- webOS only: if you notice a dimmer Dolby Vision compared to X1X (or Apple TV) Dolby Vision luminance, I added the suggestion to switch to DV Game profile also there
- HDR Game Color value was slightly raised from 44 to 48 to align to the HDR Technicolor improvement above
Thanks for these. Quick question on sharpness. I've read that 10 actually equals 0/no sharpening and there's some sort of bypass function with these TVs?
Set sharpness to 10 and make sure edge enhancer is on. If you have ee set to off it's going to ignore whatever value you set sharpness to.
Thanks for the update! No change on the DV white balance to avoid the bluer tint with the last update?
That's not true in SDR/HDR Game Modes, where Edge Enhancer setting is not available but altering Sharpness will still be effective, therefore Sharpness 10 is the recommended value also there even without EE.
I found an actual blue tint after using the new WB values in HDR Technicolor profile only.
SDR Technicolor and DV Cinema are accurate and better then ever instead.
Surprisingly, I also found that DV Game mode is actually a really great alternative to new calibrated/patched DV Cinema as it is as bright and accurate (just with a tiny bit more of color using the same general settings), but with 21ms low input lag and great motion.
If you experience extra tints, dimness or strangeness of any sort with new DV Cinema, just settle with DV Game.
It's actually great!
So Sharpness 10 is correct and setting it at 0 is actually softening the image a bit?
This is what I've heard as well for years, but frankly I've kinda grown skeptical. I've gotten right up to my screen and switched between Sharpness 0 and Sharpness 10 (yes, I know how EE works so that isn't the reason) and cannot notice any difference. I really do wonder if Sharpness 0-10 does nothing and is neutral and only once you start going above 10 does it start to artificially sharpen.
Thanks. What about for modes where there is a V and H Sharpness setting? What should those be set at?
Set both V and H the same way, so at 10 value, then double check that Edge Enhancer is also ON.
Any recommended settings for someone who prefers Dynamic Contrast off in HDR game mode? Been playing with your settings, and Dynamic Contrast on high often looks overly bright and contrasty in a lot of scenes. While it's a bit dimmer and the highlights a little less spectacular, I prefer the more "natural" look that Dynamic Contrast off has.
Right now I've lowered Brightness to 51 (I'm assuming it was raised to 53 to help combat possible black crush from the high dynamic contrast). Just wondering if there were any other recommendations.
Right now I've lowered Brightness to 51 (I'm assuming it was raised to 53 to help combat possible black crush from the high dynamic contrast). Just wondering if there were any other recommendations.
I have a friend who's planning to buy a C8 or B8, do anyone have the same kind of topic as this one for the 2018 models ? Thanks
I have the B8. Settings generally work fine. Just don't turn on Dynamic Contrast.
When I follow the guide and set my color temp to w40 it looks so yellow. Is it just me? Just looks wrong
Also it says to use 8 bit but the Xbox detects that my panel can do 10 bits?
Also it says to use 8 bit but the Xbox detects that my panel can do 10 bits?
I think many m TVs expect 8bit 4:4:4 rec709 in PC mode, which is why the colours are borked. That is certainly the case with my old Samsung
Dunno if it's the same for c7 as for c8 but I think for no added sharpening it should be set to 0. At least that's what Rtings settings has it set as for both c7 and c8.
Someone also did a test to show what adding 10 points of sharpening did to their c8's image. Unless I'm missing something. 0 Is the way to go.
Yeah, I always found the whole "Sharpness 10 is off" thing odd. Especially on picture modes that contain Edge Enhancer. They would recommend setting Edge Enhancer to "ON" as a form of "bypass" and setting Sharpness to 10. But I discovered turning Edge Enhancer to off disables all artificial sharpening, making the Sharpness slider not do anything at any value. So there's this belief that Sharpness 0/Edge Enhancer "OFF" is softening the picture. I never could counteract it because I could never tell a difference between Sharpness 0 and 10. But seeing that gif, I'm definitely setting Edge Enhancer to "OFF" and Sharpness to 0 from now on.Dunno if it's the same for c7 as for c8 but I think for no added sharpening it should be set to 0. At least that's what Rtings settings has it set as for both c7 and c8.
Someone also did a test to show what adding 10 points of sharpening did to their c8's image. Unless I'm missing something. 0 Is the way to go.
Dunno if it's the same for c7 as for c8 but I think for no added sharpening it should be set to 0. At least that's what Rtings settings has it set as for both c7 and c8.
Someone also did a test to show what adding 10 points of sharpening did to their c8's image. Unless I'm missing something. 0 Is the way to go.
Wow, very interesting. So what exactly is going on in the image here?
I'm not very technical haha but I think it's trying to build artifacts around the corners and edges of the arrow to make it pop and stand out more, but all it does is make it blurry and lose fine detail. But that's just me guessing.
I'd recommend just following post 5531 and onwards, they're the ones that did the great test. You can see other posters also chime in and say 0 is best for an accurate image. But that sharpness can help with older low quality content. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-o...lg-c8-e8-owners-thread-no-price-talk-185.html
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That's very surprising after 2 years, guess I will update my profles a bit again.
Thanks ;)