No problem, glad to help! :) All i did was just google what sharpness settings to use and stumbled on that thread. They're much smarter than I am with this stuff haha.
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I must thank you for bringing this to our attention. As I said earlier I was always side-eyeing that setting of 10, but I didn't have the knowledge to dispute it so I was a good boy and did what I was told. I'm so glad to finally have this answered once and for all without a shadow of a doubt, especially when someone in the TV thread said that none other than Vincent Teoh also calibrated to Sharpness 0. I really wish I knew this before, so again thank you for finding this and posting it.
Your very welcome Kyle! :) I was always curious about the 10 sharpness too. It also put it to bed for me knowing that Vincent does the same. Glad we got this one figured out. Happy viewings!
I just found something else. According to RTINGs Sharpness 0 should be used outside PC mode, but Sharpness 20 should be used in PC mode.
https://www.rtings.com/tv/discussio...s-be-set-to-20-for-a-neutral-image-in-pc-mode
https://www.rtings.com/tv/discussio...s-be-set-to-20-for-a-neutral-image-in-pc-mode
They updated that in another comment and now it should be set to 0 regardless of whether it's pc mode or non pc mode :) edit: at least for the c8- https://www.rtings.com/tv/discussio...en-pc-and-non-pc-mode-using-spears-and-munsil
They should really update their calibration settings page as it still recommends 20 sharpness for pc mode which is now incorrect.
Oh, good looking out again! Man, I wish PC mode didn't have the more noticeable banding issue.
Just got a C9. Calibrated it as best as I could but it still feels like the picture is a big cold. Any suggestions on how to warm it up?
Another thing I found over on RTINGs:
Setting OLED LIGHT to 35 greatly reduces the chance of ABL dimming the picture. That was only 5 notches below where I kept it (40).
Setting OLED LIGHT to 35 greatly reduces the chance of ABL dimming the picture. That was only 5 notches below where I kept it (40).
Move color temp maybe, didn't even know the C9 was out.....doesn't that have a ton of new features like variable refresh and the meta dynamic contrast or whatever it's called
They're largely the same, just P40L0 has adapted them for use in game mode as well.
Yes it does. I used RTING's suggested settings and then used a calibration disc from one of pixar's titles and the xbox one. Everything looks right but it feels like whites are a little cold. Not quite sure how to warm them up. This is my first LG tv, I'm used to samsung tvs and their settings. lol
I'll try the OPs settings, but again, as I'm new to LG in general, do I just use the settings here under each of the profiles my TV has, such as Cinema, vivid, etc? Can I rename the profiles that LG has listed?
i noticed in sonoftumble post that the OLED light is drastically lower than the settings here for SDR, is this just a personal preference thing?
even his highest OLED light value for brightly lit room of 49 is drastically lower than the suggested 70 here.
even his highest OLED light value for brightly lit room of 49 is drastically lower than the suggested 70 here.
Yes, I found that the correct HDR Luminance in-game value for the HDR Game profile is to set it to 4.000 nits when possible, but not all games can reach that, that's why the HDR Luminance is often set to Max (as generally only peaks at 2.000 nits for most games).
This is only valid for LG 2017 and newer OLEDs using HDR Game mode.
Yes, the DV USB File is totally re-done, as the calibration for most profiles.
I started with sonoftumble's new re-calibration as a basaline, but I noticed different things for each profiles that can be further improved (as SDR luminance, TruMotion set to 0,0 to fix motion stutters, fixing a possible blue tint in HDR Technicolor, fixing Dolby Vision dimness in webOS and re-creating calibrated SDR/HDR Game profiles based on new SDR/HDR Technicolor results).
thanks for the response, quick question, did you purposely remove the white balance values from the updated/ Web-OS HDR settings?
also with the new DV text file, do we need to do any form of factory reset?, as from my understanding/ previously, once a DV profile has been loaded, the TV wouldn't prompt you for an update again.
Yes, as the new sonoftumble HDR Technicolor White Balance values have a noticeable blue tint, while the old ones have a yellow one. Best to leave default values for HDR, while new values look perfect for SDR and DV.
The new DV USB profile will be immediately recognized as a new one to install instead of the old or default one, no need to reset the old first.
Hey P40L0, any chance you'll be able to do something similar for the 2019 TVs? The input names are a bit different and the gamma settings have some different names but I'm assuming the info is similar or the same for the most part.
Great thread, btw.
Any Dolby Vision mode do not need any Dynamic Contrast, as all have dynamic metadata by default, therefore DC should be disabled.
W40 is also the correct value to match new re-calibrations, and other profiles' temperature.
I would love to do something similar for 2019 models (as I would love having one), but it'is not possible at the moment (really satisfied with my B7, and 2019 series is too much pricey right now).
You can still apply all the general suggested settings for 2017 models for a very good baseline, avoiding touching White Balance/CMS settings and without installing the DV USB profile (that won't work there anyway).
Also remember to disable Dynamic Contrast in HDR Game mode and use Dynamic Tone Mapping instead.
Hey P40L0, been testing out your HDR game settings. I was playing Ghost Recon Wildlands and was flipping between your HDR game settings and technicolor expert and noticed that the current HDR game settings with Dynamic Contrast set to High is often quite a bit brighter than technicolor expert with dynamic tone mapping enabled. Having the game mode Dynamic Contrast set to medium seemed to be a much better mach to technicolor expert (which I'm assuming is more accurate). Thoughts?
It depends by the game/movie and the single scene in general.
DC set to Medium can be very similar to calibrated HDR Technicolor with Activer HDR, but very often can be much dimmer (especially in 2.000 or 4.000 nits games, and most movies, so 4.000 nits and higher).
With DC set to High (and the rest of the settings) is mostly the same, but more consistent with contents mastered at higher nits, and even if sometime brighter, the eventual clipping is nothing compared to what HDR Standard tone mapping does with it's extreme clipping, but it's still pretty accurate instead.
Oh really? I was always under the impression I should jack up dynamic contrast for HDR games. Why one over the other?
On the 2018 and 19 OLED's, you have the best possible antidote to dim HDR, dynamic tone mapping! True luminance boosting.
I see, can you please post the previous HDR White Balance values so I can adjust my settings back to what you initially recommend?
I have used sonoftumble updated settings with the blue tinge.
thanks for the responses. On SDR content on the xbox (my son plays a lot of Project Spark), what should I use for color temp? I have cool, medium, warm1, 2 or 3.
Thanks!
Thanks!
thanks for the responses. On SDR content on the xbox (my son plays a lot of Project Spark), what should I use for color temp? I have cool, medium, warm1, 2 or 3.
Should I turn this on for HDR movies? I'm trying to figure out the best settings for something that uses dolby vision or hdr for movies. I play all my 4k blurays through the xbox one X.
All 2017 models and newer should have it, along with DV Home Cinema, Cinema etc.
Be sure to play a DV content, then find and switch to DV Game.
If you are not seeing it, something's wrong, and probably you need to factory restore your panel.
The previous HDR White Balance are a bit yellow tinted, so the best for you is to Restore all the defaults for HDR Technicolor profile only, and then re-apply the new suggested general settings only, without touching WB.
Right, on 2019 models you can have low input lag also on regular profiles, therefore select Warm2.
Always leave Dynamic Tone Mapping ON on 2018 and newer sets.
My advice since the TV is pretty new is just copy the similar settings from default technicolor settings from your tv into Game mode and call it a day. Technicolor is pretty optimal out of the box.
If you don't care about input lag at all, just use the webOS SDR/HDR profiles also for X1X and gaming.
DV profiles are the same, and currently only for movies.
Personally, after experiencing 21ms input lag with these big, top tier, TVs, it's basically impossible for me to go back to something lagggier. The superior responsiveness feels so great coupled with big and great image quality!
I was finalllllyyyy able to downgrade my lg c7 to stock factory firmware. Can use the HDR game mode without the horrible dim brightness now. Wow forgot how much brighter it used to be before "the dimmening"
I do so much solo gaming that it just doesn't bother me and my online games aren't twitch shooters, I'm playing Halo Wars 2 and back compat games like E4 and might and magic. Even when I drop into my racing games I choose graphics over perf.
Are the firmware updates something I should disable, or is there a way to do so in case there's some bad shit out there?
That's probably placebo, as 2017 models always had the "dim" HDR Game profile to begin with.
Only on 2016 models they "dimmed" the stock HDR Game (based on HDR Standard) to the 2017 models (based on HDR Cinema, but without Active HDR), but LG already rolled back to 2016 stock one after criticism, so no need to downgrade also there.
I have to say the last "dim" games I played were RDR2 and Spider-Man. Games like Days Gone and FC5 are pretty bright and fine. Also tried Spider-Man a while back and I don't know if it is in my head, but that one seems brighter too. Was there an update I don't know about?
On 2017 models you can almost eliminate PC Mode color banding by disabling 422 from X1X settings, and then using ISF Expert (Dark Room) for SDR and HDR Standard for HDR.
The only real drawback of PC Mode is the slightly higher input lag in HDR compared to "Game" (something around 40ms vs 21ms, but still better than any "non-PC" and "non-Game" profiles).