Not for a good while, I just know what it was like, but if that is indeed possible to get it accurate without pro calibration, then that's good.
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Not for a good while, I just know what it was like, but if that is indeed possible to get it accurate without pro calibration, then that's good.
In Option 1 this will basically let X1X to just "pass" the native contents' Chroma + Color Depth to the TV, without middle recoversions, so SDR will output 8-bit, HDR 10-bit and DV 12-bit (and the TV will then handle the signal for its 10-bit panel).
On Option 1 input lag is higher that way, so in Option 2: enabling 10-bit offloads all TV processing of the signal, and X1X will upconvert/reconvert or downconvert everything to 10-bit before passing the final signal to the TV. This seems to fix the higher input lag in PC Mode + HDR Standard.
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Option 2 is more accurate in SDR, and more bright, but slightly more clipped in HDR (but people claim higher input lag on PS4 Pro and on PC, while on X1X this can be fixed with the correct video settings as suggested)
Option 1 is less accurate both in SDR and HDR, but with less highlights clipping (input lag is always consistently low on both tho)
This is basically why two preset alternatives exist based on devices and preference.
Personally, I currently prefer Option 2 on X1X. ;)
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I'm quite skeptical that it's really changed since you last looked at it. How would it had to have changed to make it accurate?
Don't know, but you can just apply both calibrated settings for HDR Technicolor Expert (with Active HDR) and HDR Standard, and swapping between the two while watching a 4K/HDR movie, and accuracy is the same.
HDR Standard is only even brighter, and tends to clip higher nits highlights more.
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Quite a lot lol, but I'll have a look at the C8 later and see how good I can get that, it'll be very similar I'm sure, in terms of whites/colour/gamma etc.
Thanks. I'll give option 2 a spin.
When you say 'highlights clipping', what do you mean? Fidelity at high brightness?
Yeah, if and how fine details are preserved on peak HDR brightness (e.g. clouds in the sky in a sunny daytime).
Thanks would be much appreciated. After playing around with option 1 and injected meta data, and then option 2 without any injection the picture seems some what comparable by eye. With all the subtle tweaks it is not as easy as flicking between presets so it might placebo.
I think option 2 is definitely a viable option especially for those not using any injection methods.
As always will look out for your posts and thoughts. Good looking out..
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In option 1 with injection RDR2 can go above 2000 nits before clipping, however option 2 clipping starts at a 1000 nits which is in line with what P40L0 is saying.
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I tried option 2 in hdr last night and it's unplayable. The latency is way too high. Anyone who thinks it's fine needs to boot up shadow of the tomb raider and try it out. It feels awful. Other games felt a little bit better but it's not as responsive as hdr game.
Shadow Of The Tomb Raider already has a ton of input lag, so it doesn't take too much to make it unplayable...
So it would be better for me to check "10 bits" instead of 8 if I play in HDR option 1 (game mode) on Xbox One X?
The opposite.
Select 8-bit for Option 1
Select 10-bit for Option 2
It's also written in the docs
Had a good go at it on my C8 and DTM off, obviously it's really hard for me to say how much brighter it is on a B7, as the C8 tracks a lot brighter without DTM vs B7, but anyhow PC Standard with a colour temp tweak to W40 and colour 55 does look decent and comparable to HDR game.......BUT that lag :/
Did you try setting X1X Color Depth to 10-bit?
Seems pretty identical to HDR Game response time after that to me (or difference may be so subtle to go unnoticed).
I would force close the game, change the setting and launch the game again to be sure.
Doesn't feel bad in game mode though,that's the point.
Obviously preference but I just don't see the tradeoff being worth it. Some don't care as much about lag I guess.
That's perfectly fine and that's why you have alternatives to pick ;)
Isn't the dimness problem in the 2017 OLEDs solved with dynamic tone mapping in the 2018 & newer OLEDs? I've got a B8 and I'm trying to figure out how applicable these settings are for me.
Apply webOS HDR suggested settings to HDR Game, then disable Dynamic Contrast and enable Dynamic Tone Mapping and you're good to go also on B8.
Thank you.. So as I see it... :
Option 1: Great PQ for those sensitive to lag, and even better with injected metadata.
Option 2: the brightest HDR you can get with minimum (highlight peaks clip) visual compromise, however lag can be an issue for those more susceptible.
Looks like this thread caters to all tastes. Going with option 1 and injected metadata of a 1000nits myself but option 2 is the best alternative I have seen.
This is an outstanding thread. Thank you!!
Option 1: Great PQ for those sensitive to lag, and even better with injected metadata.
Option 2: the brightest HDR you can get with minimum (highlight peaks clip) visual compromise, however lag can be an issue for those more susceptible.
Looks like this thread caters to all tastes. Going with option 1 and injected metadata of a 1000nits myself but option 2 is the best alternative I have seen.
This is an outstanding thread. Thank you!!
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Because Wide is forced when using PC Mode + HDR Standard, but adjusting Color and Temperature values can get VERY close to Auto results.
Enjoy ;)
Does any else have an issue loading the page now? I'm on iPhone if that matters. Have tried chrome and safari, and resetting cache and cookies.
Yeah, I'm already on it since pre-release, but it should be relevant for EU/PAL TVs and devices only.
All the OP settings are still compatible with it.
Use DV Game profile (with same general settings as DV Cinema) and you will bring Luminance back while keeping accuracy.
Or use Netflix app from HDMI (X1X, Apple TV etc.)
Usually games titles provide in-game instruction picture for adjusting black level, contrast, peak HDR luminance etc. (I wish The Division 2 provides it, too).
Are you suggesting to ignore it and adjust sliders based on numbers ?
I ask because for example, in Forza Horizon 4, according to onscreen setting picture, peak white starts to clip around 1, 500 nits of HDR luminance settings. Still recommended to raise it to 4,000 nits ?
I understand that there's a possibility of in-game onscreen picture/reference being wrong & misguided.
You can find them in the OP, both for Option 1 and Option 2 general calibrations.
If you're using Option 1 suggested general calibration you won't hide the FH4 logo with only 1.500 nits, as you can still see it (or part of it) up to 3.500 nits.
In the OP you can find different in-game HDR values depending if you have applied Option 1 or Option 2 calibration on TV/Console. Be sure to not mix the two.
Understood. Perhaps, I didn't recall the nit number.
So, the suggestion is 4,000 nits for FH4 but the reference picture logo disappears around 3,5000 nits as you say.
My question was should one ignore in-game reference picture?
You should never ignore it, as if you get very close to the screen you will still see parts of the logo still there at 3.500 nits, while 4.000 nits make it vanish completely.
This is saying that most of the time in-game HDR calibrations' results and general suggestion are matching ;)
2.2 is "Medium" and should be what most use. If you're in a very dark room, you can go BT.1886. Warm2 is usually the most accurate temperature. If it seems too cold/warm you usually just need to give your eyes time to adjust to it.
OLED which can do perfect black, BT.1886 is exactly the same curve as gamma 2.4.
LCD which can't do perfect black, BT.1886 is a slightly different curve, but more or less the same as gamma 2.4.
These are both for "dark room" viewing. You should think of BT.1886 as equivalent to gamma 2.4 in what it aims to get out of the display and how quickly it "comes out of black".
Gamma 2.2 on the other hand is used for "bright room" viewing - lower number of gamma curve means it "comes out of black" more rapidly so that you can see the very dark shadow details in the bright room conditions. Some people prefer the look of 2.2 even if they can see everything with it set to 2.4.
TL:DR - Use Gamma 2.2 and Warm 2, your eyes will adjust to it pretty quickly on every room condition ;)
