Not seeing anything noticeably wow with the PS4 on a 4k TV but that was probably to be expected. Will try the PS3 and figure out how to hook up my PS2 and DC at some point.
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Mcable "Classic" dongle
- Thread starter T002 Tyrant
- Start date
yeah, DQ11 was worth the purchase alone. It was straight up uncomfortable to look at and play before, especially in motion, and especially having played the PS4 version. It's a bandaid, but a really effective one.
Just got this today and I've been messing around with it with the Switch. No matter what resolution or game I try, the info bar on my Sony X900e says the output is 1080p. I'm not particularly impressed with the image but it might be because I'm doing something wrong?
Edit : browsing through this thread and it seems it might be the TV doesn't accept it? Oh...
Edit : browsing through this thread and it seems it might be the TV doesn't accept it? Oh...
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Your TV probably doesn't support 1440P (most TVs don't), but regardless of that you should still see some clear improvements going by other user impressions. I haven't received mine yet. Have you tried setting the output of the Switch to 1080P?
That's awesome to hear, it is right now the main reason I bought my mClassic (for DQ XI S). Mine just came in today, I just need to go pick it up.
Can you use the HDMI cord that came with the Switch? That is what I use in hooking up to my receiver, but wasn't sure if you needed to use a higher end (?) cord with the mClassic than the one that came with the Switch.
Switch comes with a High Speed HDMI cable as default which is has the 18Gbps throughput for 4K@60 content. The statements circulating that the Switch has a standard non-high speed HDMI cable are false.
In fact it's the same cable that was packed in with the Wii U, even
In fact it's the same cable that was packed in with the Wii U, even
It's not that I heard the Switch has a "lesser" HDMI cable, I just wasn't sure. But it sounds like it is very sufficient for what is needed.
Thank you.
Edit: Ok, hooked up my mClassic. Haven't had the chance yet to play anything yet, but I will tonight.
However, for everyone that has used their mClassic for their Switch (which I think most here have), did you power the mClassic through the USB slot on your Switch? Or use another device? Nothing is really close enough besides my Switch.
Also, do you normally turn off the mClassic when not in use? Or do you always leave it on (leave the blue light on)?
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Used some Amazon credit to order everything I needed to route all of my non-4k-capable consoles through the mClassic via an HDMI splitter.
This will make the product much more useful to me.
On another note, I've had it plugged into my Switch all week long, and I'm starting to adjust to its processing. It softens the image slightly in almost all instances, but for games with clean art styles it does lend everything a smooth, anti-aliased look. Smash, Mario Odyssey, and Mario Kart all look noticeably cleaner and sport nicely boosted contrast with the mClassic enabled.
I just wish it did a better job with PS2/PS3 games. The processing on those is a bit ugly to me.
This will make the product much more useful to me.
On another note, I've had it plugged into my Switch all week long, and I'm starting to adjust to its processing. It softens the image slightly in almost all instances, but for games with clean art styles it does lend everything a smooth, anti-aliased look. Smash, Mario Odyssey, and Mario Kart all look noticeably cleaner and sport nicely boosted contrast with the mClassic enabled.
I just wish it did a better job with PS2/PS3 games. The processing on those is a bit ugly to me.
My PC tower is next to my Switch so I can power the mClassic through either the Switch extra USB port inside the Dock next to the HDMI port to sorta hide the USB power cable, or just plug it into PC's own USB port. I typically keep it plugged in.
There is three settings, Off, Upscale (Green), and Retro (Blue)
Keep in mind for the upscaling effect to work the mClassic should be toggled on it's Green setting, not Blue.
The Blue Mode is the Retro Setting which forces the image to 4:3 and mainly used for Retro consoles like the SNES or Genesis which only have a 4:3 aspect ratio output. If you are using the Blue / 4:3 mode on your Switch the image will be squished.
Yes, figured that out on which color to use. It defaulted to blue, but switched it over to green.
I have the USB plugged into my Switch as that is just the closest USB port I can use. I think maybe my PS4 Pro may be close enough, but the Switch works (unless someone says something differently).
Awesome. Well have fun. I am probably going to go back a revisit a couple of games, notably Fire Emblem: Three Houses and Xenoblade 2.
Probably will check out some older stuff to see how it works in terms of anti-aliasing. This might not be the best thing to use on 2D games though as it might produce a undesirable smoothing effect on sprites notably Neo-Geo / SNK stuff.
But I'd say any 3D game or open world game with shimmering or aliasing on grass or edged surfaces this has a great effect on for producing a better quality image.
Got the mClassic today. Very impressed with how it improves the image quality of Link's Awakening and Dragon Quest XI. Very noticable.
But I have the same problem as you with my Sony 55XF9005 - which in fact does support 1440p at 60Hz. But the output with the mClassic still just remains at 1080p.
Weird.
I've got the same TV and it is not natively compatible with 1440p 60hz. Unfortunate but it is what it is.
EDIT:https://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/televisions/xf9005-series/specifications You can look it up here if you want proofs
Does anyone switch off their dongles after each play session? Was straightening up today and noticed that the green light was on even though the switch wasnt.
Is it okay to leave it on and in processing mode 24/7?
Is it okay to leave it on and in processing mode 24/7?
Thanks. But why did rtings.com list 1440p 60hz as a supported resolution in their review?
[https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/x900f]
They even measured the input lag with a 1440p60 signal.
That's quite misleading if the tv isn't actually compatible with this resolution.
It is not misleading, they're forcing the resolution, you can easily do that on PC, that doesn't mean that it's natively supporting the resolution
OP
OP
That's very interesting, I'm kinda lazy when it comes to stuff like that. I presume unplugging it for 30 seconds and plugging it back in doesn't fix the glitch?
Got mine set up, incorporating a HDMI Switch. So far great results, especially for FE :Three Houses and Astral Chain. I also tried some Cube Games (with a Scart to HDMI converter put in front). Also great results. Most reasonable way to hook up retro consoles with analogue out onto a big ass 4k tv now.
It's really astounding, everytime i go near the screen and look at some background stuff i think to myself "Well that's way too smooth, even blurry now, i bet some detailing/ sharpness is now lost". But then i switch the mClassic mode several times and compare them: Without processing there are no more details, just more jaggies. Incredible really, such smoothing without smearing. Makes the average viewieng distance such a pleasant experience now.
It's really astounding, everytime i go near the screen and look at some background stuff i think to myself "Well that's way too smooth, even blurry now, i bet some detailing/ sharpness is now lost". But then i switch the mClassic mode several times and compare them: Without processing there are no more details, just more jaggies. Incredible really, such smoothing without smearing. Makes the average viewieng distance such a pleasant experience now.
Well, I'm not familiar with forcing resolutions on a PC. Don't really understand why it makes a difference compared to the mClassic outputting a 1440p60 signal either.
But what matters is that I don't need to look into it any further. 1080p output it is then - and I'm still very pleased with the results the mClassic delivers on my XF9005.
So thanks for clearing that up!
Basically it's the graphic's card that is doing the work to force a resolution that's not natively supported by the TV, while the mClassic just detects the highest resolution possible on that screen (max 1440p 60hz) and does its work is my guess. Happy to know you're pleased with it, can't wait to get mine to give it a try!
I wrote marseille support about this because my tv was detecting the switch Randomnly even when not in use it's because the dock provide a constant usb power. I somehow knew that because my charging joycon dock is always »on » hence why joycon charge when switch sleep.
They told me if I can to connect like the mcable. Straight from the tv to the mclassic. Now I don't have issue anymore
Uhm, i received mine today and either i am doing something wrong or this is not compatible with my setup.
I plug the hdmi extension in my switch, then the mclassic dongle and then switch's HDMI cable to receiver.
It detects the image as 480p...
w-t-f
I plug the hdmi extension in my switch, then the mclassic dongle and then switch's HDMI cable to receiver.
It detects the image as 480p...
w-t-f
Are you sure that you've set it to Upscale Mode? You should see a green light on the dongle if you've set it to Upscale Mode. Blue light indicates that it is in Retro Mode.
Yup its green.
Is there an hdmi limitation? I have a receiver that is dating a bit but i mean, not too bad. 1080p tv and receiver.
Witcher 3 on PS4 Pro:
Off:
On:
It does a pretty decent job on the foliage and the castle in the background. It comes close to overdoing it, but I think they really found a sweet spot without introducing a ton of sharpening artifacts or smearing detail. In general I've found its effect on PS4 games limited, at least the ones I tried that all mostly seem to have their own AA solutions.
Off:
On:
It does a pretty decent job on the foliage and the castle in the background. It comes close to overdoing it, but I think they really found a sweet spot without introducing a ton of sharpening artifacts or smearing detail. In general I've found its effect on PS4 games limited, at least the ones I tried that all mostly seem to have their own AA solutions.
There is some A class misinformation in this thread. :)
Let me clear that up, and add some more usefull stuff.
rtings isn't 'forcing 1440p' via input settings. How it works is as follows. TVs have something called EDID information in them (think text file), that tells devices plugged into them via HDMI what they are capable of. If that EDID file contains 1440p as a supported resolution, the mClassic will switch to outputing it and not just 1080p.
The issue is, that EDID info can not be relied on to be filled out by the manufacturer of the TV correctly all the time (its the most optional of features, usually nothing relies on it.. ;) ), especially not with 'strange' resolutions such as 1440p. So even if your TV is compatible, with that resolution, but it doesnt advertise it via EDID, the mClassic wont switch over to the higher output resolution.
Normally stuff like this is better solved with an on screen menu, or a resolution switch on the device (because that way you could force output resolution manually), but Marseille didnt go that route.
Also - they have already confirmed in the Indigogo comments, that according to them firmware on the mClassic is not user upgradeable. So we will have not way in the future to force it.
-
My TV (LG OLED B6) should support 1440p if it receives it, but doesnt send out that it is compatible with that resolution over EDID, so I am stuck with 1080p as well.
Because of that, and because I'm an AV nerd, I played around with a few other devices I own, such as the HDFury Linker, in chain with the mClassic and have a few things to report. :)
First of is, that if I use the HDFury Linker to scale the 1080p output of the mClassic to 4k (instead of my TVs internal scaler - which is poor (sub medium standard for 2016)), the image turns out far better, than if I use the internal scaler of the TV. For others this mostly means, that the scaler in your TV still alters the resulting image quite a bit (or at least can do so), when upscaling mClassics 1080p to 4k. The HDFury linker doest do any fancy stuff while scaling - it just uses a (apparently better) scaler chip also from around 2016. ;)
So most peoples results on image quality will differ. :)
The second finding is, that when using the mClassic and the HDFury linker chained, imput lag is reduced over the B6 nativ input lag (in a non gaming mode) - this has to do with this specific TVs signal handling, and probably is nothing you should expect in your case. For me this means I can use this combo to game on a standard input profile (none gaming mode), which on this TV allows a calibration profile to be active. Gaming mode on those TVs cant be calibrated (basically). So that a nice find. :)
Output signal is YCbCr 4:4:4 at 8bit, color range is the same as the source device.
(If I use the HDFury Linker to convert the 8bit signal to 12 bit, input lag increases. Just FYI.)
This now has me made curious about other after market scalers, so I ordered a DVDO iScan HD Mini to play around with as well - but still havent received it.
The reason why was, because on some 720p and most 1080p signals mClassic will produce ringing (oversharpening) artefacts.
See:
Ringing is whats happening to the womens ear in the image (brighter lines get added in as 'edge enhancement').
Wikipedia has more info on it, if you are curious. :) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ringing_artifacts
(The color difference is actually a result of my capture device, which has the mClassic crush black by a few steps, so dont judge that - colors mostly dont stay similar. When outputting to my TV interestingly mClassic doesnt crush near black colors. Just fyi.)
The DVDO iScan (in addition to be a scaler as well) has an option to reduce ringing, which is why I ordered one to play around with it - no information on input lag yet. I'll pot it in here, once I've played with it.
--
I also recorded a short Video with the mClassic scaling a PSClassic running Retroarch and several generations of games - if you are interested:
Default in the video is always mClassic on. You should catch the cuts in the video to when its turned off rather easily. Output resolution always was 720p (PSClassic) internal render resolution on N64, PSP and Final Fantasy VIII specifically was 2x, in all the other cases it was 1x or non integer scale in case of the 2D games. In all cases with bilinear filtering disabled. (And no additional Retroarch filters on top. ;) )
--
So there you've got it. mClassic is an external scaler. With no added input lag. Oversharpening in many cases is very apparent still. You get less of it, if you use a 720p input resolution. You get more of it, if you use it with a 1080p input resolution. ;)
If you are only scaling to 1080p with the mClassic the resulting image quality will still be impacted by your TVs internal scaler rather heavily (if its a 4k TV).
With Switch games - there is a tradeoff in texture quality if you switch games that support 900p to 720p only - so 'just set it to 720p' is not something I would recommend.
If you have additional questions, ask away. :) Im still enjoying playing around with my second external scaler, and have my third (DVD0) on its way - because diving into 'subjective image quality is quite fun.. ;)
Oh, and benefits on some movie content are impressive as well (on good 720p sources mostly), the mClassic supports 24p/25p as well as 50Hz and 60Hz images. If the source has film grain on it - it kind of defeats what the mClassic does, so there are diminishing returns in that case.
And yes - there also are visible ringing artifacts on movie content. :)
edit: Oh and if you have the HDFury Linker pose as a 1440p capable device (EDID emulation), In my case on a B6 I only get a black screen as a result (HDFury Linker probably not compatible with 1440p signals.. ;) ), but the mClassic apparently does switch to that resolution. ;)
Let me clear that up, and add some more usefull stuff.
rtings isn't 'forcing 1440p' via input settings. How it works is as follows. TVs have something called EDID information in them (think text file), that tells devices plugged into them via HDMI what they are capable of. If that EDID file contains 1440p as a supported resolution, the mClassic will switch to outputing it and not just 1080p.
The issue is, that EDID info can not be relied on to be filled out by the manufacturer of the TV correctly all the time (its the most optional of features, usually nothing relies on it.. ;) ), especially not with 'strange' resolutions such as 1440p. So even if your TV is compatible, with that resolution, but it doesnt advertise it via EDID, the mClassic wont switch over to the higher output resolution.
Normally stuff like this is better solved with an on screen menu, or a resolution switch on the device (because that way you could force output resolution manually), but Marseille didnt go that route.
Also - they have already confirmed in the Indigogo comments, that according to them firmware on the mClassic is not user upgradeable. So we will have not way in the future to force it.
-
My TV (LG OLED B6) should support 1440p if it receives it, but doesnt send out that it is compatible with that resolution over EDID, so I am stuck with 1080p as well.
Because of that, and because I'm an AV nerd, I played around with a few other devices I own, such as the HDFury Linker, in chain with the mClassic and have a few things to report. :)
First of is, that if I use the HDFury Linker to scale the 1080p output of the mClassic to 4k (instead of my TVs internal scaler - which is poor (sub medium standard for 2016)), the image turns out far better, than if I use the internal scaler of the TV. For others this mostly means, that the scaler in your TV still alters the resulting image quite a bit (or at least can do so), when upscaling mClassics 1080p to 4k. The HDFury linker doest do any fancy stuff while scaling - it just uses a (apparently better) scaler chip also from around 2016. ;)
So most peoples results on image quality will differ. :)
The second finding is, that when using the mClassic and the HDFury linker chained, imput lag is reduced over the B6 nativ input lag (in a non gaming mode) - this has to do with this specific TVs signal handling, and probably is nothing you should expect in your case. For me this means I can use this combo to game on a standard input profile (none gaming mode), which on this TV allows a calibration profile to be active. Gaming mode on those TVs cant be calibrated (basically). So that a nice find. :)
Output signal is YCbCr 4:4:4 at 8bit, color range is the same as the source device.
(If I use the HDFury Linker to convert the 8bit signal to 12 bit, input lag increases. Just FYI.)
This now has me made curious about other after market scalers, so I ordered a DVDO iScan HD Mini to play around with as well - but still havent received it.
The reason why was, because on some 720p and most 1080p signals mClassic will produce ringing (oversharpening) artefacts.
See:
Ringing is whats happening to the womens ear in the image (brighter lines get added in as 'edge enhancement').
Wikipedia has more info on it, if you are curious. :) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ringing_artifacts
(The color difference is actually a result of my capture device, which has the mClassic crush black by a few steps, so dont judge that - colors mostly dont stay similar. When outputting to my TV interestingly mClassic doesnt crush near black colors. Just fyi.)
The DVDO iScan (in addition to be a scaler as well) has an option to reduce ringing, which is why I ordered one to play around with it - no information on input lag yet. I'll pot it in here, once I've played with it.
--
I also recorded a short Video with the mClassic scaling a PSClassic running Retroarch and several generations of games - if you are interested:
Default in the video is always mClassic on. You should catch the cuts in the video to when its turned off rather easily. Output resolution always was 720p (PSClassic) internal render resolution on N64, PSP and Final Fantasy VIII specifically was 2x, in all the other cases it was 1x or non integer scale in case of the 2D games. In all cases with bilinear filtering disabled. (And no additional Retroarch filters on top. ;) )
--
So there you've got it. mClassic is an external scaler. With no added input lag. Oversharpening in many cases is very apparent still. You get less of it, if you use a 720p input resolution. You get more of it, if you use it with a 1080p input resolution. ;)
If you are only scaling to 1080p with the mClassic the resulting image quality will still be impacted by your TVs internal scaler rather heavily (if its a 4k TV).
With Switch games - there is a tradeoff in texture quality if you switch games that support 900p to 720p only - so 'just set it to 720p' is not something I would recommend.
If you have additional questions, ask away. :) Im still enjoying playing around with my second external scaler, and have my third (DVD0) on its way - because diving into 'subjective image quality is quite fun.. ;)
Oh, and benefits on some movie content are impressive as well (on good 720p sources mostly), the mClassic supports 24p/25p as well as 50Hz and 60Hz images. If the source has film grain on it - it kind of defeats what the mClassic does, so there are diminishing returns in that case.
And yes - there also are visible ringing artifacts on movie content. :)
edit: Oh and if you have the HDFury Linker pose as a 1440p capable device (EDID emulation), In my case on a B6 I only get a black screen as a result (HDFury Linker probably not compatible with 1440p signals.. ;) ), but the mClassic apparently does switch to that resolution. ;)
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Tested some more games. The best results seem to be reserved for Switch and some retro stuff.
Good results with: MvU 3, Hyrule Warriors, Fire Emblem TH, Dragon Quest XI S, Astral Chain.
Hyrule Warriors and MvU 3 look great! Really good stuff. The effect on Deus Ex HR on Wii U were sadly not as severe as hoped. :(
Good results with: MvU 3, Hyrule Warriors, Fire Emblem TH, Dragon Quest XI S, Astral Chain.
Hyrule Warriors and MvU 3 look great! Really good stuff. The effect on Deus Ex HR on Wii U were sadly not as severe as hoped. :(
Jesus lmao, thanks for all that info, and saying the real reason behind how it works LOL
Wait a second...the mClassic is supposed to turn off when you turn the Switch off? My green light has been on since I received the thing. Is this bad?
Where did you read that ? Mines been on since i got it. So i assumed it was supposed to be on :D
If it's plugged into a powered USB port then it will be on all the time. I can't imagine it will be much of an issue.
Neh. Silicon chip at low voltage and a LED. Should be fine left plugged in for decades. ;)
Thanks, everyone -- people in this thread were talking about it, so I was curious. I use a cord cover for all the wires coming out of my Switch, so it'd be a pain to turn it off and on (checked it for heat a bunch, and it doesn't seem to be producing any).
Finally just got mine! Here's a comparison for Dragon Quest XI
Here's one for Link's Awakening
Very pleased with the results on DQXI, probably gonna do FE:TH next, if you want me to post more comparisons for other (Switch)games tell me, I'll do it if I have it
Here's one for Link's Awakening
Very pleased with the results on DQXI, probably gonna do FE:TH next, if you want me to post more comparisons for other (Switch)games tell me, I'll do it if I have it
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After spending a few weeks with this, I think I actually prefer leaving it off for my Switch. It tends to soften the image on the whole, and switching back and forth I tend to prefer the "unmolested", sharper look of the native output upscaled by my TV. It also produces ringing artifacts around certain elements at times, which bothers me.
Where this device does come in handy, however, is upscaling 480p content like Wii/PS2 games. If fed a true 480p signal, it tends to do a decent job smoothing edges for low-resolution sources.
Where this device does come in handy, however, is upscaling 480p content like Wii/PS2 games. If fed a true 480p signal, it tends to do a decent job smoothing edges for low-resolution sources.
Yeah there's definitely a sweet spot for it, depending on your preferences. I also like the way it looks with some of the native Vita games I've tried on a PSTV set to 720p.
Mine stopped working today out of the blue. Light is still lit on the dongle, but it's refusing to output a signal. Using HDMI direct to my switch works instantly, so it's not the other hardware.
Anyone else with this issue?
Anyone else with this issue?
OP
OP
This is so awesome with using linker as a scaler.
I have a HDFury Vertex lying around. Can I use it with my LG C7?
My current setup is:
Wii U (set to output 480p) > mClassic > HDMI Switch > Denon AVR (3500H) > LG C7
Should I place HDFury Vertex as:
Wii U > HDMI Switch > mClassic > Vertex > AVR > C7
And what configurations do I need to on the Vertex for mClassic to see it as a 1080p screen?
My order finally turned up unannounced, and I have mixed feelings about the device.
The anti-aliasing seems to work as advertised - and looks great in Luigi's Mansion 3 for example.
Bypass:
mClassic:
It's not as obvious here as it is in person, since those are quick photos taken with my phone, but the anti-aliasing is doing a good job at 1080p.
I had hope to be using direct captures for comparison, but have run into several compatibility issues with the mClassic which seem to be EDID-related.
No matter what I do, I cannot seem to get the mClassic to upscale the picture to 1440p. 1080p in gives me a 1080p output on my 1440p monitor. This is with a cable that can do 4K60, and the monitor does accept 1440p over HDMI (tested using that cable).
When trying to use my capture device (Elgato CamLink 4K), which supports up to 1440p60/4K30, and works to capture 1080p60 from the Switch, the output is forced to 720x480 with no audio when the mClassic is conneted.
I've tried many different cables and nothing seems to work.
So for now, all it's doing is adding anti-aliasing without any upscaling. It does work to scale from 720p to 1080p, but that doesn't really help.
My "end goal" is to use the mClassic with an HDMI matrix switcher, so I can easily use it with multiple devices and toggle it on/off by switching the output via a remote, but the main thing I intended to use it for right now was upscaling the Switch output to 1440p for better quality captures (the CamLink 4K is limited to 4:2:2).
The frustrating thing is that I don't really want to spend a lot on HDMI EDID/switching gear when 2.1 is right around the corner.
The anti-aliasing seems to work as advertised - and looks great in Luigi's Mansion 3 for example.
Bypass:
mClassic:
It's not as obvious here as it is in person, since those are quick photos taken with my phone, but the anti-aliasing is doing a good job at 1080p.
I had hope to be using direct captures for comparison, but have run into several compatibility issues with the mClassic which seem to be EDID-related.
No matter what I do, I cannot seem to get the mClassic to upscale the picture to 1440p. 1080p in gives me a 1080p output on my 1440p monitor. This is with a cable that can do 4K60, and the monitor does accept 1440p over HDMI (tested using that cable).
When trying to use my capture device (Elgato CamLink 4K), which supports up to 1440p60/4K30, and works to capture 1080p60 from the Switch, the output is forced to 720x480 with no audio when the mClassic is conneted.
I've tried many different cables and nothing seems to work.
So for now, all it's doing is adding anti-aliasing without any upscaling. It does work to scale from 720p to 1080p, but that doesn't really help.
My "end goal" is to use the mClassic with an HDMI matrix switcher, so I can easily use it with multiple devices and toggle it on/off by switching the output via a remote, but the main thing I intended to use it for right now was upscaling the Switch output to 1440p for better quality captures (the CamLink 4K is limited to 4:2:2).
The frustrating thing is that I don't really want to spend a lot on HDMI EDID/switching gear when 2.1 is right around the corner.
Regarding the 1440p issue, have a read: #529My order finally turned up unannounced, and I have mixed feelings about the device.
The anti-aliasing seems to work as advertised - and looks great in Luigi's Mansion 3 for example.
Bypass:
mClassic:
It's not as obvious here as it is in person, since those are quick photos taken with my phone, but the anti-aliasing is doing a good job at 1080p.
I had hope to be using direct captures for comparison, but have run into several compatibility issues with the mClassic which seem to be EDID-related.
No matter what I do, I cannot seem to get the mClassic to upscale the picture to 1440p. 1080p in gives me a 1080p output on my 1440p monitor. This is with a cable that can do 4K60, and the monitor does accept 1440p over HDMI (tested using that cable).
When trying to use my capture device (Elgato CamLink 4K), which supports up to 1440p60/4K30, and works to capture 1080p60 from the Switch, the output is forced to 720x480 with no audio when the mClassic is conneted.
I've tried many different cables and nothing seems to work.
So for now, all it's doing is adding anti-aliasing without any upscaling. It does work to scale from 720p to 1080p, but that doesn't really help.
My "end goal" is to use the mClassic with an HDMI matrix switcher, so I can easily use it with multiple devices and toggle it on/off by switching the output via a remote, but the main thing I intended to use it for right now was upscaling the Switch output to 1440p for better quality captures (the CamLink 4K is limited to 4:2:2).
The frustrating thing is that I don't really want to spend a lot on HDMI EDID/switching gear when 2.1 is right around the corner.
It sounds like you never found a solution to this either.
With a 4K TV, I could see them overlooking 1440p as a supported resolution in the EDID. But it would be far more unusual if my 1440p monitor is missing it.
And it's weird that I'm only getting a 720x480 image when connected to a capture device. The Switch auto-detects 1080p without the mClassic.
I don't think there are any inexpensive EDID devices that support 1440p though, so I might be stuck with 1080p for now - at least until HDMI 2.1 equipment is available.
EDIT: Some advice if anyone else runs into problems getting a picture, and/or issues with HDMI-CEC not working correctly; e.g. selecting the wrong input.
The HDMI pigtail they ship with the device is garbage.
I spent a long time troubleshooting why I wasn't getting a picture on my main TV (even at 480p), and why turning on the Switch would select input 1 when it was connected to input 3.
Turned out that removing the supplied pigtail and using two short high-quality HDMIs with a coupler fixed it immediately. And that's an HDMI coupler I had set aside because it wasn't suitable for the connection it was purchased for.
I should check to see if this also fixes the other display issues I mentioned before, but I suspect those are EDID rather than the connection.
Then again, I'd never have thought CEC would break in a way that it selects the wrong input.
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Cool stuff! Are you part of the November shipment est on Indiegogo? Still waiting on mine.My order finally turned up unannounced, and I have mixed feelings about the device.
The anti-aliasing seems to work as advertised - and looks great in Luigi's Mansion 3 for example.
Bypass:
mClassic:
It's not as obvious here as it is in person, since those are quick photos taken with my phone, but the anti-aliasing is doing a good job at 1080p.
I had hope to be using direct captures for comparison, but have run into several compatibility issues with the mClassic which seem to be EDID-related.
No matter what I do, I cannot seem to get the mClassic to upscale the picture to 1440p. 1080p in gives me a 1080p output on my 1440p monitor. This is with a cable that can do 4K60, and the monitor does accept 1440p over HDMI (tested using that cable).
When trying to use my capture device (Elgato CamLink 4K), which supports up to 1440p60/4K30, and works to capture 1080p60 from the Switch, the output is forced to 720x480 with no audio when the mClassic is conneted.
I've tried many different cables and nothing seems to work.
So for now, all it's doing is adding anti-aliasing without any upscaling. It does work to scale from 720p to 1080p, but that doesn't really help.
My "end goal" is to use the mClassic with an HDMI matrix switcher, so I can easily use it with multiple devices and toggle it on/off by switching the output via a remote, but the main thing I intended to use it for right now was upscaling the Switch output to 1440p for better quality captures (the CamLink 4K is limited to 4:2:2).
The frustrating thing is that I don't really want to spend a lot on HDMI EDID/switching gear when 2.1 is right around the corner.