Miniature Gaming ERA - Modelling, Playing & Painting

sackboy97

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,653
Italy
Truth to be told, I haven't even really looked at how the regular game is played. I'm just not that interested. I believe they hold events and tournaments and the like at the Warhammer shop, so I may have a look at something there one day.

They also hold free painting lessons which is pretty cool. I may go there to get some more specific tips after I get some more practice.
 

affeinvasion

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,575
I'm probably not that rare in this, but I vastly prefer painting Games Workshop models to playing any of their games. I bought a bunch of Underworlds stuff assuming that would be my jam, but I still haven't even bothered with that.

That being said, I forgot to prime a bunch of my stuff before it got really cold outside, so I won't be painting anything for a while.
 

Griselbrand

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,486
I've primed when it's cold, it's humidity you should really avoid. Warm up your primer in a bowl of warm water prior to shaking it, and make sure you shake for two minutes. Test it out on spare plastic sprue to be sure.
 

CthulhuSars

Member
Oct 25, 2017
3,069
I'm probably not that rare in this, but I vastly prefer painting Games Workshop models to playing any of their games. I bought a bunch of Underworlds stuff assuming that would be my jam, but I still haven't even bothered with that.

That being said, I forgot to prime a bunch of my stuff before it got really cold outside, so I won't be painting anything for a while.
Honestly after playing Games Workshop games for over two decades, painting is all the real joy I get out of the stuff GW sells anymore.

Does anyone here paint the standalone GW games (the one box one game stuff)?
 

Boat Times

Member
Oct 25, 2017
555
I've played Underworlds, but that's it, and I haven't played it since it was Shadespire. I still buy the boxes because the minis are great and fun to paint. All the other GW stuff I've purchased I know I'll never use (at least, not for GW. I do use quite a lot of them for D&D).
 

Kharnete

Member
Oct 25, 2017
439
Underworlds is really, really good. It's only problem is the FFG-esque tactic of adding cards on each band that can (and want) be used by anyone, forcing you to buy them if you want to play competitive (or in places where proxies are a Nope). But the game itself is just fantastic.

Also, Blood Bowl. Blood Bowl is love, Blood Bowl is life.
 

Serule

Member
Oct 25, 2017
488
Honestly after playing Games Workshop games for over two decades, painting is all the real joy I get out of the stuff GW sells anymore.

Does anyone here paint the standalone GW games (the one box one game stuff)?
Unsure what you mean by standalone games? I painted up the Betrayal at Calth set as depicted on the box (Ultramarines vs Word Bearers).

I’ve convinced the wife to play Underworlds a few times but most of the stuff I paint is 40K minis I’ll never play with. Have most of an Eldar army painted up now; lots of Necrons and Orks too + a few Imperial Knights.
 

sackboy97

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,653
Italy
I got a Dreadnought for Christmas, so I started painting that before the T'au team. It's not really mini, at all; I'm painting it part by part pretty much. I'll probably have to get a Leadbelcher for some of the details, instead of leaving it black. I would also like to keep it with the "front armor" up, as there's a lot of neat details underneath, but I'm not sure how nice it would look overall, since it would leave some empty spaces visible.

Also, as a more general question, I was wondering how much does the undercoat influence the final result? For example, I painted the Ultramarines with black as base, and blue on top; if I were to use a white/light grey base, with blue on top, would the result be significantly different? Or just slightly different?
 

SillyEskimo

The Fallen
Oct 26, 2017
3,100
I just got buried in minis for xmas. It looks like Zombicide is finally getting pushed aside while 5 Necromunda gangs and a massive Genestealer Cult take center stage for the duration.
 

XShagrath

Member
Oct 25, 2017
627
No minis for me this Christmas, but I did get a lot of mini-related stuff.

Reaper paint caddy (I'm up to 4 now)
Airbrush quick connectors
Airbrush station filter
Masters brush cleaner
Vallejo airbrush flow improver
Vallejo white primer
Vallejo model wash (black)
Nitrile gloves
A set of synthetic brushes of various sizes
A mini vice-grip
 

Boat Times

Member
Oct 25, 2017
555
I got a Dreadnought for Christmas, so I started painting that before the T'au team. It's not really mini, at all; I'm painting it part by part pretty much. I'll probably have to get a Leadbelcher for some of the details, instead of leaving it black. I would also like to keep it with the "front armor" up, as there's a lot of neat details underneath, but I'm not sure how nice it would look overall, since it would leave some empty spaces visible.

Also, as a more general question, I was wondering how much does the undercoat influence the final result? For example, I painted the Ultramarines with black as base, and blue on top; if I were to use a white/light grey base, with blue on top, would the result be significantly different? Or just slightly different?
Damn, that's an intense project to take on after your first couple of minis! Definitely get the Leadbelcher. Also, undercoat definitely influences the final result, but it's much more noticeable if you are painting in thin layers. If you are painting black, of course the final result will be darker. White, the blue on top of the white will be a lighter shade. Though if you paint enough layers either effect won't be noticeable. I tend to prime either in grey for something a bit neutral, or in what is called "Zenithal Priming", which is where you prime the whole model in black, then you prime from an 70 degree angel with grey, then you prime from right above your mini in white. It gives the mini the effect of the Sun at noon shining down on it, and high lights and shadows appropriately. I don't think I'd try/worry about Zenithal priming where you are at yet, but if you want to look into it there's plenty of videos on youtube that can show you how, and the effects it can have.
 

sackboy97

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,653
Italy
Damn, that's an intense project to take on after your first couple of minis! Definitely get the Leadbelcher. Also, undercoat definitely influences the final result, but it's much more noticeable if you are painting in thin layers. If you are painting black, of course the final result will be darker. White, the blue on top of the white will be a lighter shade. Though if you paint enough layers either effect won't be noticeable. I tend to prime either in grey for something a bit neutral, or in what is called "Zenithal Priming", which is where you prime the whole model in black, then you prime from an 70 degree angel with grey, then you prime from right above your mini in white. It gives the mini the effect of the Sun at noon shining down on it, and high lights and shadows appropriately. I don't think I'd try/worry about Zenithal priming where you are at yet, but if you want to look into it there's plenty of videos on youtube that can show you how, and the effects it can have.
It is taking a while, but it's pretty nice that I already know exactly which colours to use and the right order (except for some extra details). I have been at it for a few hours and I'm just about finished with the base black.

I do my best to paint with thin layers; since the details are pretty visible after about 4 layers of paint (plus some touch-ups all throughout, which would add up to at least an extra layer), I'd hope it would be thin enough to have a visible result. I'll probably try it out on one of the T'au dudes.

I agree it's a bit early for that, especially taking into account that I'm not priming anything either as of yet. I still need to look up how to do highlights and the like. Is black lining the armor/edges done with a marker (like with Gunpla) or with a brush?
 

Kharnete

Member
Oct 25, 2017
439
Is black lining the armor/edges done with a marker (like with Gunpla) or with a brush?
Brush with regular paints, applying a wash with a black/darker colour, Gunpla/sharpie... there are as many ways as diferent results, so it all depends on what you want it to look, although depending on each case some techniques may be more favored than others.

For instance, I used to outline them with a brush on my White Scars as a wash would give me a lot of extra work cleaning the base white, but I recently moved to a 0.03 sharpie and I won't look back again. So much easy to apply and even results (just compare the legs of the first guy with the others, although those have some mistakes I didn't fix).
 
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sackboy97

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,653
Italy
Brush with regular paints, applying a wash with a black/darker colour, Gunpla/sharpie... there are as many ways as diferent results, so it all depends on what you want it to look, although depending on each case some techniques may be more favored than others.

For instance, I used to outline them with a brush on my White Scars as a wash would give me a lot of extra work cleaning the base white, but https://i.imgur.com/3b7N9QW.jpg]I recently moved to a 0.03 sharpie and I won't look back again. So much easy to apply and even results (just compare the legs of the first guy with the others, although those have some mistakes I didn't fix).
I guess I'll just have to try thing out. The marker I have is 1mm, so it would be too thick. I should get a thinner to make washes as well, as I only have the Agrax Earthshade for now.
 

XShagrath

Member
Oct 25, 2017
627
The one part of the painting process I don't really enjoy. Don't think I'll need to prime anything for a while. Next batch comes in February or so.

 

sackboy97

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,653
Italy
It's pretty neat how minis start to look quite cool even when there's only two colours. I'm nearly finished with the blue on the Dreadnought, then I'll focus on all the smaller colours (I still have to buy the Leadbelcher though, and maybe some yellow for some other details). It's not coming out as nicely as the other minis, since getting an even coat on such a large surface hasn't been easy, but I do like the end result.
 

Nazo

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,212
Got the Doom board game for Christmas, really excited to paint the demons but I'm not sure if I want to base them like they'e in hell or on mars.
 

sackboy97

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,653
Italy
I have finished my Dreadnought! I went a bit crazy with the details, after getting both the Leadbelcher and a nice yellow; there's some spots that aren't perfect, and it's not as smooth as I would have liked in parts, but I'm very satisfied with the result. It's unfortunate that all those cool details remain hidden in the middle.




That might be too many pictures. Sorry! Of course, any criticism/suggestion would be welcome.
 

Bombless

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,289
That is an amazingly smooth paintjob. Well done. The shading is great as well.

This is where you can see the work highlights do though, all these big flat colour surfaces look slightly off.
 

sackboy97

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,653
Italy
Thanks for the kind words! There are actually quite a lot of visible brush strokes, especially under a lamp/strong light, though it does look pretty clean with regular lights.
This is where you can see the work highlights do though, all these big flat colour surfaces look slightly off.
Yeah, I have to look up some tutorials/explanations on both highlighting and shading in general, which will be necessary eg for the cloth on the T'au dudes.
Part of the problem is also not using any water slide decal (which are called transfer for some reason), but I think it fits better with the three Ultramarines who are also without any "external" markings.
 

StaffyManasse

Member
Oct 28, 2017
924
If you are feeling brave, the Ultramarines symbol is not *that* difficult one to paint free hand. :)

And I am saying this because you seem to have the patience for that sort of thing.

Here is my version of the same model where you can see some simple edge highlighting and weathering.

 

sackboy97

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,653
Italy
If you are feeling brave, the Ultramarines symbol is not *that* difficult one to paint free hand. :)

And I am saying this because you seem to have the patience for that sort of thing.

Here is my version of the same model where you can see some simple edge highlighting and weathering.
That looks really nice. The edge highlighting most of all, I really like that effect.
My hands are not steady at all, so I don't think I would be able to make anything decent by free-handing it. I was considering making a small "stencil" using masking tape for the symbol on the helmet of the T'au soldiers, instead of using the stickers.
 

StaffyManasse

Member
Oct 28, 2017
924
That looks really nice. The edge highlighting most of all, I really like that effect.
My hands are not steady at all, so I don't think I would be able to make anything decent by free-handing it. I was considering making a small "stencil" using masking tape for the symbol on the helmet of the T'au soldiers, instead of using the stickers.
Thanks. I personally think that is one of my best work.

Regarding shaky hands, I got the same issue. Like really shaky. Sometimes when I really get the shakes I have to stop painting alltogether for a while. But it gets better I've found. It also helps that painting is calming (when it's not stressing lol).
 

Bombless

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,289
That looks really nice. The edge highlighting most of all, I really like that effect.
My hands are not steady at all, so I don't think I would be able to make anything decent by free-handing it. I was considering making a small "stencil" using masking tape for the symbol on the helmet of the T'au soldiers, instead of using the stickers.
Same here, but on things as big and edgy as the dread just drybrushing over the edges will yield amazing results.
 

Dbltap

Member
Oct 31, 2017
473
Woodinville, WA
I just purchased the Fire Mountain Gut Buster blood bowl team. I think it will be fun painting them. I'm tossing around the idea of painting them a NFL team color.

I also downloaded Instgram so it can share pics.
 

Repgnar

Member
Nov 4, 2017
93
Wife got me the Gwaka'moli Crater Gators for Christmas so going through the same ideas on which color scheme. I painted the Orc blood bowl team as the Dolphins. Thinking of going KC Chiefs or Raiders for these guys.

Anyone have some links/advice on taking pictures of minis? I'm thinking about posting pictures as a means to keep myself on a steady pace. Always fun to share progress/completion in addition to showing my wife.
 

Dbltap

Member
Oct 31, 2017
473
Woodinville, WA
Wife got me the Gwaka'moli Crater Gators for Christmas so going through the same ideas on which color scheme. I painted the Orc blood bowl team as the Dolphins. Thinking of going KC Chiefs or Raiders for these guys.

Anyone have some links/advice on taking pictures of minis? I'm thinking about posting pictures as a means to keep myself on a steady pace. Always fun to share progress/completion in addition to showing my wife.
I would love to see that Orc blood bowl team some time.
 
Dec 1, 2017
153
Any recommendations for somewhere to buy Vallejo paints online?

I ordered the Game Color Intro set from Amazon and they were counterfeit. I don't really have any stores near me, unless shithole Hobby Lobby counts, but do they even sell Vallejo paints?
 

Repgnar

Member
Nov 4, 2017
93
Hobby Lobby near me carries some basic Vallejo stuff. A few kits as well for military vehicles if I remember. No air products though.
 

Faiz

Member
Oct 26, 2017
2,003
New Year gaming time! first game of Warcry coming up today.


Pretty sure Hobby Lobby DOES carry Vallejo, so you're in luck.
They do but a lot (all?) Hobby Lobby’s raised their prices on Vallejo bottles to, get this, $5. Which coincidentally makes the price after their usual coupon the original $3, but of course you can only use the coupon on one item.
 

XShagrath

Member
Oct 25, 2017
627
Any recommendations for somewhere to buy Vallejo paints online?

I ordered the Game Color Intro set from Amazon and they were counterfeit. I don't really have any stores near me, unless shithole Hobby Lobby counts, but do they even sell Vallejo paints?
You might also see if there's a store in your area that sells RC cars or trains. A lot of them also sell model kits, and stock acrylic paints as well.
 

MrH

Member
Nov 3, 2017
3,416
Just finished my first model in 9 months, pretty happy with how he turned out.

 

Burny

Member
Oct 26, 2017
342
WIP of the Descent shadow dragons.



Didn't manage to finish painting the base game last year, unfortunately. Here's to getting it done this winter. 😝
 
Dec 1, 2017
153
Thanks for the tips Repgnar & XShagrath

I'm now realizing that I should have pinned the first 5 KDM minis (prologue survivors and white lion) instead of gluing/cementing. Can someone point me in the direction of the supplies and tools I need to start pinning to bases? Thanks!
 

Burny

Member
Oct 26, 2017
342
I'm now realizing that I should have pinned the first 5 KDM minis (prologue survivors and white lion) instead of gluing/cementing. Can someone point me in the direction of the supplies and tools I need to start pinning to bases? Thanks!
Are the KDM models plastic kits? A good way to pin plastic kits is drilling holes using is a small model drill (Tamya, GW Citadel or similar) and pieces of paper pins for the actual pin with a bit of superglue. For larger kits or pewter, you'd need pieces of a slightly more robust wire.
 
Dec 1, 2017
153
Are the KDM models plastic kits? A good way to pin plastic kits is drilling holes using is a small model drill (Tamya, GW Citadel or similar) and pieces of paper pins for the actual pin with a bit of superglue. For larger kits or pewter, you'd need pieces of a slightly more robust wire.
Yep they're plastic. So just get a super small drill bit and cut some paper clips to use? And what super glue should I use that won't melt the plastic? I have the citadel plastic glue now and it melts plastic so should I be worried using that?
 

Griselbrand

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,486
Citadel super glue won't melt plastic, but the bond is weaker then Citadel plastic glue which will melt plastic as intended to weld both pieces together. However since you're using a metal paper clip you'll want to use the super glue, just be careful you don't use too much.
 

toy_brain

Member
Nov 1, 2017
148
Painted a couple things over the holiday season.
This little Goblin.


And this delightful old Ork..... witch?


Neither took too long, although as you can clearly see by the Google Hub in the background, I was up quite late finishing the Ork off :D
 

toy_brain

Member
Nov 1, 2017
148
The skin looks great on both? What game are those for? I don't recognize the base size.
They aren't actually from a game, they are just figures I backed on Kickstarter a while ago. I wasn't sure if this thread was the best place to post them. The scale Model Gunpla etc thread didn't seem quite right either, so sorry if here is wrong too.
 

Griselbrand

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,486
No, this is the best place to post them, sorry. I was just wondering because I'm always collecting different rulesets and was wondering if this is for a game I hadn't heard of.

I'm in the same boat though, I've got plenty of things I've painted that aren't specifically tied to any particular game and are practice pieces.