Miniature Gaming ERA - Modelling, Playing & Painting

Jest · Jan 7, 2020

toy_brain said:
They aren't actually from a game, they are just figures I backed on Kickstarter a while ago. I wasn't sure if this thread was the best place to post them. The scale Model Gunpla etc thread didn't seem quite right either, so sorry if here is wrong too.

Mini Painting tends to encompass larger scale and sculpts, not just game figures, so this is a perfectly fine place to post those. The look great by the way. Did you use GW's Contrasts at all on those or did you use more traditional techniques like glazing?

toy_brain · Jan 7, 2020

Jest said:
Mini Painting tends to encompass larger scale and sculpts, not just game figures, so this is a perfectly fine place to post those. The look great by the way. Did you use GW's Contrasts at all on those or did you use more traditional techniques like glazing?

The Ork is almost entirely contrast paints, and I think they worked amazingly well on the skin and rags. It's pretty much what they were designed for. I was going to inkwash and dry brush them, but in the end I decided it just wasn't needed as the paint had done all the work for me.
The blue thing she is casting had some dry rushing done, and it didn't work as well as I'd hoped. Trying to paint ghostly shades is still a bit of a challenge.

The goblin is a mix. Contrast for the skin and bandages, but the armour is regular Citadel base paint.

Both figures took about 4 hours to paint, and that includes painting the bases, so the contrast paints really do help speed the process up, so long as the figure suits it. Anything with large, flat areas contrast paints tend to make a mess of, but as long as everything is rough/detailed/organic looking, they are amazing.

Jest · Jan 7, 2020

toy_brain said:
The Ork is almost entirely contrast paints, and I think they worked amazingly well on the skin and rags. It's pretty much what they were designed for. I was going to inkwash and dry brush them, but in the end I decided it just wasn't needed as the paint had done all the work for me.
The blue thing she is casting had some dry rushing done, and it didn't work as well as I'd hoped. Trying to paint ghostly shades is still a bit of a challenge.

The goblin is a mix. Contrast for the skin and bandages, but the armour is regular Citadel base paint.

Both figures took about 4 hours to paint, and that includes painting the bases, so the contrast paints really do help speed the process up, so long as the figure suits it. Anything with large, flat areas contrast paints tend to make a mess of, but as long as everything is rough/detailed/organic looking, they are amazing.

Thanks for the answer. I agree that the Contrast paints came out really well. The Orc's spell may not have come out exactly the way you were hoping but it still looks really good. I've been a bit on the fence about picking up Contrast paints but I think I'm going to have to the next time I get a chance. I'm not even that concerned about saving time per say but the look that they accomplish is really cool.

MyQuarters · Jan 7, 2020

Yep, this thread is definitely the place for them!
Great job, by the way :)

Dbltap · Jan 7, 2020

Is it bad that I prefer priming miniatures while on the sprue? I feel like I do a better job. I never get runs or over paint but I can't say the same if I prime a completed figure. Oh. I got my Fire Mountain gut buster team today. I've decided on either the NY Giants or Denver Broncos for the color scheme. Contrast paint or Regular?

Anno · Jan 7, 2020

I'm getting back into painting after awhile away with the new Slaves to Darkness box, and holy crap I don't remember everything being this tiny before lol. I'm sure it was, but it's somehow striking to see just how small these figures are for the crazy detail they have.

Griselbrand · Jan 7, 2020

Dbltap said:
Is it bad that I prefer priming miniatures while on the sprue? I feel like I do a better job. I never get runs or over paint but I can't say the same if I prime a completed figure. Oh. I got my Fire Mountain gut buster team today. I've decided on either the NY Giants or Denver Broncos for the color scheme. Contrast paint or Regular?

I did this for my Warlord Titan on Duncan's advice. Too many bits of armor plating with trim and I wanted to do the inside of the armor panels in one go with Leadbelcher spray.

toy_brain · Jan 7, 2020

*Sigh*, well, after 2 decent pieces, this one was a bit of a screw-up.
The robo-dog was easy enough, but the lady wasn't supposed to end up wearing thick black tights. It was all going well until I put an inkwash on her skin then tried to do highlights. The highlights looked completely wrong on one leg. When I painted over the leg the paint ended up going on lumpy and the inkwash didn't look right when it was applied. After 2 attempts I gave up and now she is wearing thick black tights with holes in them (where the previous layer of paint wasn't too lumpy) to cover my mistakes.
Also, a figure like that is hard to handle while painting. I didn't have a good base for it, so paint kept coming off where I was holding it.
I still have a tiny bit of touching up to do, but If I ever run out of things to paint, I'm tempted to order another of these figures and give it another shot from scratch.

sackboy97 · Jan 8, 2020

Is there any alternative to shade paints? As in, way to make them out of regular "base" paints? Maybe using a specific thinner, but I'm not sure which kind would be best.
Also, is there anything specific that distinguishes Layer paints? Is it just branding to let you know what they're meant for, or do they actually differ from base paints?

I have to say, the Citadel tutorial videos are brief but really well done. I feel like I learned a lot in a short time just by watching a few of them yesterday.

MrH · Jan 8, 2020

I'm batch painting for the first time and it's really not for me, I much prefer focusing one unit. Thought I'd give it a go as I picked up some ETB Cadians. Luckily I paint for fun not to wargame so I won't need to do it again.

StaffyManasse · Jan 8, 2020

sackboy97 said:
Is there any alternative to shade paints? As in, way to make them out of regular "base" paints? Maybe using a specific thinner, but I'm not sure which kind would be best.
Also, is there anything specific that distinguishes Layer paints? Is it just branding to let you know what they're meant for, or do they actually differ from base paints?

I have to say, the Citadel tutorial videos are brief but really well done. I feel like I learned a lot in a short time just by watching a few of them yesterday.

There are ways to make your own washes. Youtube has some tutorials on the matter, for example this guy. Mind you, I haven't personally tried. I just like my Nuln Oil.

GW paint system base paints and layer paints and their difference is that the base paints are bit more opaque and the layer variety is bit more translucent. But yeah, mostly branding.

sackboy97 · Jan 8, 2020

StaffyManasse said:
There are ways to make your own washes. Youtube has some tutorials on the matter, for example this guy. Mind you, I haven't personally tried. I just like my Nuln Oil.

GW paint system base paints and layer paints and their difference is that the base paints are bit more opaque and the layer variety is bit more translucent. But yeah, mostly branding.

Thanks for the link. It doesn't look too complex, but I'll probably pass on it for now. I only have Agrax Earthshade at the moment, I should get Nuln Oil since it's apparently as important to have as Leadbelcher.
Good to know on the Layer paints; I actually just realised I did buy one, so I'll be able to see how much difference there is between that one and a base paint.

Griselbrand · Jan 8, 2020

What we now know as base paints used to be called foundation paints. When they first came out years and years ago they were advertised as basecoats that applied really easily over a black primer and were as such formulated differently. I remember first using what I think is now Khorne Red back then and being blown away by how easily it went on compared to using Blood Angels Red or Red Gore.

The GW manager at my local shop basecoated an entire 56mm Eisenhorn model using some of the colors to show us how effective they were. Before then all we had were what are essentially now layer paints, a couple of washes, and I think just gloss varnish. Even an empty paint pot.

I found this article on the GW community website that expands a little more on it. That Mechrite Red was a big help to me back then.

Boat Times · Jan 8, 2020

Here is an attempt at OSL. I haven't really done it much before, and when I have it was very subtle. I think maybe I did it a bit too harshly at the front of the model(mostly the face, doesn't look right to me), but I really like how it came out when viewing from the sides.

MrH · Jan 9, 2020

I just ordered another batch of Reaper minis, you can't argue with their value. All these for £13 delivered.

Boat Times · Jan 9, 2020

Yeah, Reaper are my go to mini line. Plus if you order off their website it's free shipping at $35 and if you spend $5 more you get a free mini. They also usually sneak in a sample paint or two, and sometimes other goodies. Most of my D&D mini collection at this point is Reaper.

MrH · Jan 9, 2020

I got mine from an eBay seller, multibuy saved me 75p which is OK I guess. It works out at £3 per mini and that's delivered, it's perfect for someone like me who doesn't wargame, I just like painting cool shit, it really keeps the cost down. That being said.... I am soooo close to pulling the trigger on my most expensive model yet, nothing compared to you guys but going from £3 - £25 is a big leap.

He's just so sexy, I want him! It's my birthday on the 26th so maybe it can be my present to myself :D

Kharnete · Jan 9, 2020

I've just went all in on a late pledge for the last Battletech Kickstarter as a late self-Christmas gift.

I don't even know if I'll actually manage to play it, I'll try to organize some games on my club, but I've always wanted 'Mech miniatures to paint. For a long time I've been tempted to 3D print some Mechwarrior Online models, but these are quite good (and with similar style to the MWO/MW5 ones) compared with the old silly ones.

MrH · Jan 12, 2020

Just bought this from Etsy, it'll be my biggest mini so far. Hyde is 65mm, Jekyll is 40mm.

toy_brain · Jan 12, 2020

Etsy is one heck of a hole to fall down. I recently ordered a whole load of Artisan Guild minis from a couple sellers. Just waiting for them to arrive.
Not that I need to keep adding to my backlog. I don't have much interesting to show right now in terms of finished pieces, so I thought I'd share a pic of my current painting-area setup.

Right now, I'm trying to get through my Yedharo Miniatures Ork Warband figures. Those are the large pieces in the centre.

sackboy97 · Jan 12, 2020

That's a lot of paints.

toy_brain · Jan 12, 2020

sackboy97 said:
That's a lot of paints.

On the left is a full set of contrast paints, and some shade washes. In the middle is dry and layer paints, and on the right are base paints.
Mostly though, I just hate mixing paints, so I buy every colour I need.

Dbltap · Jan 13, 2020

MrH said:
Just bought this from Etsy, it'll be my biggest mini so far. Hyde is 65mm, Jekyll is 40mm.

They have some really nice miniatures. I picked up a Wendigo. The wife is taking me paint shopping this weekend.

sackboy97 · Jan 14, 2020

I have finally gotten around to start assembling my T'au dudes, but there are too many options and I'm conflicted.

Kharnete · Jan 14, 2020

In these cases, magnets may be your friends :P

sackboy97 · Jan 14, 2020

Kharnete said:
In these cases, magnets may be your friends :P

That looks like a cool option for weapons, maybe not that great for heads and tiny pouches.
It took about half an hour to make one. He does look pretty cool. He also may or may not be pretty much a carbon copy of one of the units on the package. I left one arm and a couple of small bits unglued, as I'm pretty sure I wouldn't be able to paint the properly otherwise.

MrH · Jan 15, 2020

I'm trying to convince myself I don't need a 3D printer, the Photon resin printer is £300 and fantastic, the quality is just insane. After the initial cost it's actually super cheap to paint minis, like 10p or less.

sackboy97 · Jan 15, 2020

How should I go about painting the arms I'm not gluing right away? Should I stick it to some kind of base? I guess I could put in on double-sided tape, like I'm doing with the minis themselves.

Griselbrand · Jan 15, 2020

MrH said:
I'm trying to convince myself I don't need a 3D printer, the Photon resin printer is £300 and fantastic, the quality is just insane. After the initial cost it's actually super cheap to paint minis, like 10p or less.

I've thought about buying the same exact printer so I can print Epic or Warmaster armies. I almost bought one for myself over the holidays but it went to travel expenses instead.

sackboy97 said:
How should I go about painting the arms I'm not gluing right away? Should I stick it to some kind of base? I guess I could put in on double-sided tape, like I'm doing with the minis themselves.

I prefer double sided tape usually but blue tac works as well. Eventually you'll learn what pieces of sprue can stay on each particular bit so you can hold onto that while you paint instead of using tape.

Those Tau have very specific arm pairings, try not to lose track of those pairs or just dry fit carefully before gluing them in place.

sackboy97 · Jan 15, 2020

Griselbrand said:
I prefer double sided tape usually but blue tac works as well. Eventually you'll learn what pieces of sprue can stay on each particular bit so you can hold onto that while you paint instead of using tape.

Those Tau have very specific arm pairings, try not to lose track of those pairs or just dry fit carefully before gluing them in place.

Yeah, I noticed there's a lot of specific options. I'm keeping the arms and various other small bits separated already (like the receiver looking thing that goes on the side of the head).

Griselbrand · Jan 15, 2020

So much trim, damn. It's been a fun model to work on but I'm going to need a long break before getting started on the other Warlord.

Anno · Jan 15, 2020

Kinda cool KS out there that's doing some wild numbers.

Gareth · Jan 16, 2020

sackboy97 said:
I have finally gotten around to start assembling my T'au dudes, but there are too many options and I'm conflicted.

One of the reasons why I like Necrons, lol.

sackboy97 · Jan 17, 2020

Would a 2/0 brush be small enough for edge highlighting? Besides the fact that I still have to paint a bunch of other layers first.

Foofaraw · Jan 17, 2020

sackboy97 said:
Would a 2/0 brush be small enough for edge highlighting? Besides the fact that I still have to paint a bunch of other layers first.

You may want a larger, nicer brush to edge highlight. Bigger brush with a better point will do you better as it won't dry out. I have one of those insane detail brushes from army painter, and I can hardly get the paint from the pallet to the model before all the paint has dried. With a bigger brush, you can also use the edge of the brush to highlight, which is pretty nice.

Edit: Also, there is no standard for brush sizes, so giving a size of a brush isn't going to be terribly helpful as they very so much between brands.

sackboy97 · Jan 17, 2020

Foofaraw said:
You may want a larger, nicer brush to edge highlight. Bigger brush with a better point will do you better as it won't dry out. I have one of those insane detail brushes from army painter, and I can hardly get the paint from the pallet to the model before all the paint has dried. With a bigger brush, you can also use the edge of the brush to highlight, which is pretty nice.

Edit: Also, there is no standard for brush sizes, so giving a size of a brush isn't going to be terribly helpful as they very so much between brands.

I was thinking of edges like the cloth on the leg of this mini, for example:

I feel like a larger brush would lead to a different kind of final look.

I thought that would be standardised, but at least it's helpful to give a rough idea of the sizes we're talking about.

Griselbrand · Jan 17, 2020

One tip that I got from a YouTube video was that rather than have brushes in all sorts of sizes you should try one large brush with a very sharp point. I've been using a pretty big brush with that in mind and it's been working quite nicely so I'm going to stick with that for the time being.

For edge highlighting like that, if you want to stick to a smaller fine detail brush, try for one with long bristles because that will hold more paint as well as facilitate edge highlighting by dragging the flat side of the brush against edges like the barrel of the rifle there.

StaffyManasse · Jan 17, 2020

sackboy97 they key to edge highlighting is using the edge of the brush, not the tip. So a bit "longer" but thin brush is better.

Ohnonono · Jan 17, 2020

HERESY in progress!

sackboy97 · Jan 17, 2020

StaffyManasse said:
sackboy97 they key to edge highlighting is using the edge of the brush, not the tip. So a bit "longer" but thin brush is better.

That was what I had in mind; I don't really have a brush that fits that description, I'll have to look around for something better.

Ohnonono it looks so good I thought it was finished already ;)

Tymerend · Jan 17, 2020

Just some recent Rum and Bones stuff.

Ohnonono · Jan 17, 2020

sackboy97 said:
That was what I had in mind; I don't really have a brush that fits that description, I'll have to look around for something better.

Ohnonono it looks so good I thought it was finished already ;)

Thanks! Miles to go! Also for brushes. I will not poo poo on nice brushes, but 99.9% of the time I use crappy brushes from Michaels or wherever. They are super cheap and unless you really take care of your stuff you will run through brushes nice or not!

MrH · Jan 18, 2020

I just ordered a Windsor and Newton Series 7 size 1, let's see what all the fuss is about, at £13 per brush I expect it to base coat my minis while I sleep.

sackboy97 · Jan 19, 2020

Ohnonono said:
Thanks! Miles to go! Also for brushes. I will not poo poo on nice brushes, but 99.9% of the time I use crappy brushes from Michaels or wherever. They are super cheap and unless you really take care of your stuff you will run through brushes nice or not!

I have been buying them at a local art store, though I'm getting the regular/base brushes, nothing too fancy.

Does anyone know what colours I should mix to get something like The Fang? It looks to me like slate with some more blue in it. But I'm awful at picking up colours (I'm also colourblind, which doesn't help).
I'm slowly but surely making progress on the three T'au minis I have been working on. The skin, as you might have guessed, is the main "big" part I'm missing, then I'll have to paint some details and then I'll finally try my hand at edge highlighting and the like.

STech · Jan 19, 2020

I recommend to use cheap brushes until you have enough confidence in your painting skills.
You are going to tear apart your brushes while trying new thing, but a Windsor costs 16€...

Once you are sure to now how to take care of your brushes, I highly recommend to invest in good brus but not before!

Fright Zone · Jan 20, 2020

Been almost a year since I started my army(s) and I still haven't finished painting a single model!
I've been agonising over paint schemes, watching tutorials, building/converting/priming, buying more and more models, paints and equipment... but something is holding me back from painting!
I think I'm mostly just scared of making irreversible choices - like painting up 15 models then deciding no actually I want to go with a different scheme. I guess I should practice my paint scheme on a model and see if it works first?

I also need basing advice, I bought a Nurgle army from eBay and they were built and glued to the bases but not painted.
Is it easy to remove the bases if I have to? I feel like some (GUO, Slimux) have a large surface area glued down and would be hard to remove without damage.

Griselbrand · Jan 20, 2020

Fright Zone I've painted ten Plague Marines in a color scheme I decided I wanted to completely change and have basecoated ten other Sons of Horus Marines that I decided to try a different shade of green on. I totally get the fear of repainting stuff but hey, it's just paint. Can always paint over it or strip it down to start over.

You can buy bases individually from GW or a local retailer. If you had to make a choice you could always just trim the more stubborn bases with clippers and trim the rest with a hobby knife.

Fright Zone · Jan 20, 2020

Wouldn't painting over or attempting to strip them result in a slight loss of detail?
I'm already stressing that my primer might be too thick or the wrong colour.
Ugh, I know I'm not going to get things perfect on my first attempt but I have paint anxiety.

Doober · Jan 20, 2020

MrH said:
I just ordered a Windsor and Newton Series 7 size 1, let's see what all the fuss is about, at £13 per brush I expect it to base coat my minis while I sleep.

They're amazing. They hold a point perfectly as long as you clean them well and shape them after every use.

And yeah, Hobby Painter's ultra fine brushes aren't as helpful as you'd think as paint dries instantly on them.

MyQuarters · Jan 21, 2020

I hadn't painted anything in AGES, but my buddy is 3d printing a bunch of scenery for our Gloomhaven campaign and asked me paint it for him (in exchange, he's gonna 3d print me some stuff! :D)

So I've done the chests and the rocky bits - next up will be any trees etc - I'm going to slowly pepper in the miniatures as I go

Anyway, that got me back in the swing of things, so I also decided to make a start on Scythe, finally!

Miniature Gaming ERA - Modelling, Playing & Painting

Made the Grade

Made the Grade

Has Hecht’s Number

Has Hecht’s Number