Is the battery for the standard 3DS vs. Regular n3DS different?Nice, now if they would only stock for the N3DS non XL model. :( (I'm in Canada, so ifixit wont ship them to me)
Is the battery for the standard 3DS vs. Regular n3DS different?
Righto, thanks. Someone did mention a supposedly good aftermarket battery a while back, probably in this thread, but I've forgotten the name.Yes. The n3DS uses KTR-003. Supposedly you could use another systems battery and add padding into the compartment to make it work but I would rather just have a proper battery instead. There are a few aftermarket batteries out there as well but the quality might be questionable.
but can't find much on the ambassador/kanji face plates that had to be purchased from Club Nintendo.
I have these still sealed. Wonder what that goes for 👀Wait, you own those?!
Yeah, I don't remember off the top of my head, but I'm fairly certain they sell for a large sum of money these days.
Edit: yeah, I'm seeing $215 on eBay for used Ambassador plates.
I can't find a better thread to post this in, has anyone experienced the 3ds blue light/black screen issue before? I got a purple n3ds xl that I've had since 2018 and has had this problem for atleast 2-3 years and I finally got around to fixing it last night and i couldn't get it to boot after removing the camera cable from one end. Wondering if I should take the top portion apart as well and remove it completely and see if it's that or is there another common fault that I've missed?
I only unplugged the camera one and the back panel connectors to the motherboard to get access to everything and put those back on fine. I only detached the camera cable on the motherboard side, the hinge was working as it should, and was wondering if I go through taking the top portion apart and remove the cable completely and seeing if that fixes it?I know this issue all too well.
Essentially, if the 3DS detects anything wrong with the wiring, whatsoever, it will refuse to boot.
It can be as simple as a loose ribbon cable somewhere on the board - or as bad as having to entirely replace the ZIF connector.
I'm a little unclear as to what specific repair you made to the 3DS here.
Did you just remove the camera cable, not the camera itself?
And did the ZIF connector (the connector where the ribbon cable plugs into) have a hinge? Or didn't it really move at all?
Also important: did you unplug any other ribbon cables at all during the repair?
I only unplugged the camera one and the back panel connectors to the motherboard to get access to everything and put those back on fine. I only detached the camera cable on the motherboard side, the hinge was working as it should, and was wondering if I go through taking the top portion apart and remove the cable completely and seeing if that fixes it?
I basically came to the same conclusion for better or worse lol. I bought a 2ds xl and am just gonna do my best to avoid any issues with that one.Taking apart the top is something I haven't even dared to do - it looks like a very difficult procedure and the likelihood of messing up a ZIF connector is high - and then you have an even worse repair.
If you don't think you'd want a professional repair, I guess you could try it. But at this point, if you want to salvage the 3DS and all it's save data/profile, I'd honestly just find a professional to fix it.
This is a bit odd as I wouldn't suspect the camera connector could stop it from booting - a broken ribbon cable in circuit could, though.
I might go through again and double check every ribbon cable on the back part of the motherboard, if you are able.
Check that ALL the ribbon cables are well seated in the connectors, not upside down, creased, etc. The display connectors have a tendency to come loose, too.
And make sure everything gets nicely put back into place on that back panel when reassembling.
If that fails, again, I'd strongly advise to find a professional who can repair it, but it will not be cheap - probably about the cost of another 3DS.