GPT PP on an SSD usually means that the SSD has failed.
You could try deleting it with diskpart and creating a new partition instead.
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You could try deleting it with diskpart and creating a new partition instead.
So work sent me a Lenovo Thinkstation p620+ I have to use. Whatever it's pretty good computer and I get to install games on it..but the problem is.. The audio quality sucks real bad. The bass sucks and barely uses my subwoofer. I have my home PC next to my work PC where the audio sounds pretty good and uses my subs and gets punchy..but Lenovo Desktop..not so much. Tried different cables same thing. The only difference I can think of.. Is my home PC uses Realtek HD Audio and this work PC has "Realtek USB Rear". I don't know if that is the same thing or matters or not but the only lead I can think of (of course other than having different MOBOs and Video Cards) Any leads what I can do to get decent sound on this? Searching for Realtek drivers for some reason is really hard? Maybe I'm just a blind dumb dumb. :(
Hey all! Getting a new laptop tomorrow, a Dell G16, and have a couple of questions...
It comes with a 1TB SSD and I have purchased an additional 4TB SSD to add to this, Is it ok to add the additional drive before I boot up the laptop for the first time or should I set the laptop up and then add it?
Also, it comes with 32GB RAM (2 x 16GB DDR5 4800). I would like to upgrade the RAM to 64 GB, I assume getting 64GB of DDR4 RAM wouldn't make sense? Should I just stick to DDR5 and pay the extra premium?
Thanks!
It comes with a 1TB SSD and I have purchased an additional 4TB SSD to add to this, Is it ok to add the additional drive before I boot up the laptop for the first time or should I set the laptop up and then add it?
Also, it comes with 32GB RAM (2 x 16GB DDR5 4800). I would like to upgrade the RAM to 64 GB, I assume getting 64GB of DDR4 RAM wouldn't make sense? Should I just stick to DDR5 and pay the extra premium?
Thanks!
That part should be fine. Without a partition, or anything on the new drive, the OS should just ignore it, and you can set it up later at your leisure.
Not really sure about the RAM, but I'd say that if it's built on DDR5, it's probably best to stick with it.
Irrelevant with a new Dell. As Windows is already installed and ready to boot.
it's when you personally would be wiping and installing Windows, that this would be a question.
DDR4 won't physically fit into a DDR5 system.
Hello, I'll be moving house later this month and have been thinking about my PC. I have a dual fan 4070 and a Phantom Spirit cooled 5800x3D in a Fractal Design R5 case. Would I be fine putting bubble wrap in the case or should I remove fan and GPU ?
I'd remove the GPU for sure. It's just not worth the risk. Then I'd pack around the CPU fan. Replacing a motherboard's a lot cheaper than replacing a GPU.
I'm still trying to figure out why I'm getting constant signal drops from my 3070 hooked up to my TV, and my only theory is that it has something to do with my pushing a 4K 120Hz HDR VRR signal over a 15ft HDMI cable (which I'm running through a wall). This has happened with multiple HDMI cables across two TVs and doesn't occur with any other device.
Yeah, too long for a standard cable. And going through a wall often means tou need an extra thick guage with shielding, for a standard cable.
Either try a club 3D cable, or try a fiber optical HDMI cable.
Club 3D brand fiber hdmi at that length, would be super expensive. So, I would try a monoprice fiber cable.
***I had had good professional experience with this brand, for high bandwidth USB-C situations. Although the price seems a bit too low I would be willing to try their fiber HDMI. Customer reviews look solid, too.
Worst case, it doesn't work, and you waste a little time returning to Amazon.
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If I were to buy a prebuilt PC, is it more challenging to upgrade components down the line? For example, if I wanted to install a new graphics card 2 years later.
It is more challenging because usually prebuilt PCs come with proprietary power supplies that are built around the existing GPU and rarely work with higher end graphic cards. In addition, the case and motherboard could be proprietary too, making it even more difficult to replace the power supply if necessary. There are prebuilt PCs that actually use regular power supplies / motherboards / cases, so it would be much easier to upgrade if you go with those. But places like HP and Dell/Alienware always use proprietary components that may be difficult to upgrade. Plus, you don't want Alienware in general because their cases have horrible air flow / cooling.
Most pre-builts tend to use sub-par power supplies and if you are going with a higher end GPU, that could be stressed during brief power spikes. So you would likely need to be looking at upgrading both the power supply and GPU, which as I said might be impossible if everything is proprietary. Some pre-built providers let you customize all the components (places like HP and Dell don't), so going with a nicer name brand ATX 3.0 power supply around 850 watts would be best for future proofing higher end GPU upgrades down the road (like a RTX 5080 or eventually the RTX 6080 in 2.5-3? years).
Np, it is mostly the big OEM companies like Dell, HP, Lenovo who use proprietary parts on their prebuilts. But whatever company you select, you may want to message them to make sure nothing is proprietary and that a decent power supply is used. Allot of prebuilt companies will cut costs by using cheaper motherboards / power supplies. Another way they might cut costs is using crappier RAM, I am not sure if you are going Intel or AMD for the CPU, but make sure it is decent DDR5, which means it needs to be at least 6000 Mhz speed and at least 32GB, preferably with CL30 timings although 36 can be okay too. If AMD Ryzen, there is no benefit to going above 6000 speeds on the RAM for the most part.
I do recommend Xbox Elite 2 controller for PC, but I have a problem I cannot solve. I have rubberbanding in Elden Ring and, looking into that problem, I found out that each time I connect the Elite 2 to the bluetooth a keyboard device appears with error ten in it. Every time I uninstall said device, and it seems to mitigate the rubberbanding, but it is very annoying having to uninstall the device every time. Do any of you know why this controller install a keyboard called "low energy bluetooth device" or something like that.
Are you using the controller over bluetooth or RF via an adapter? or wired I guess?
What happens if you just disable the device in Device Manager instead of uninstalling it?
I use the controller over buetooth. If I just disable the device I get a BSoD every time I connect the controller. When I uninstall the device it works just fine, but the device appears every time, with error 10.
Thanks for replying, by the by.
That sounds like what OLED and Plasma TVs do on bright scenes. Make sure if your monitor has any kind of eco mode to turn it off as it may be dimming the panel in bright scenes to save power. I can't imagine why RTX HDR would do this but if so that's weird.
It's not my monitor, I'm pretty sure. I've checked for those kinds of settings before. It's a crummy LCD monitor.
This only happens with RTX HDR, games in SDR that have the screen go completely white don't do this. Same with HDR applications like Windows's calibration tool.
I've been trying to transfer pictures/videos from my PC to my Pixel 8 but the process is taking forever because the copying stops every 20-30 minutes.
Its taken me a week to transfer approx 10k files over with another 7k to go.
I'll try and describe the issue.
I plug my Pixel into my PC, I open the folder that im dumping the files in, which takes forever to LOAD the entire folder of 10k (even when it was smaller it'd take forever). So i have to wait like 5 minutes for my PC to load the folder before I can start copying files because it just wont otherwise. I select anywhere between 100-500 files to copy at a time (because if i do more it'll just "time-out"), it'll slowly copying them across. Copying finishes. I select another batch to copy over and it might copy like 20%, maybe less, maybe more, and then it'll just stop actually copying the files across (The # of files in the pixel folder stops going up, though the windows dialog box still shows it "copying" over, but it isn't because the files aren't showing in the pixel folder).
Is this a normal thing?
Like a cache build-up issue or something?
And because it times out, i have to unplug my pixel, reconnect it, let it load the 10k file folder again and repeat the process again and again
Its taken me a week to transfer approx 10k files over with another 7k to go.
I'll try and describe the issue.
I plug my Pixel into my PC, I open the folder that im dumping the files in, which takes forever to LOAD the entire folder of 10k (even when it was smaller it'd take forever). So i have to wait like 5 minutes for my PC to load the folder before I can start copying files because it just wont otherwise. I select anywhere between 100-500 files to copy at a time (because if i do more it'll just "time-out"), it'll slowly copying them across. Copying finishes. I select another batch to copy over and it might copy like 20%, maybe less, maybe more, and then it'll just stop actually copying the files across (The # of files in the pixel folder stops going up, though the windows dialog box still shows it "copying" over, but it isn't because the files aren't showing in the pixel folder).
Is this a normal thing?
Like a cache build-up issue or something?
And because it times out, i have to unplug my pixel, reconnect it, let it load the 10k file folder again and repeat the process again and again
I haven't looked into it because I don't have an Elite controller, but I remember reading posts on Reddit about their being issues with Elite controllers. I forgot what the solutions were if there they actually got to one, but I do recall a lot of people just giving up and getting the RF adapter.
That´s not aceeptable. I hope Microsoft fixes that via patch.
So I upgraded my Ryzen 3900x to a 5800x3D and holy crap, I did not realize how much that older CPU was holding back my 3090.
I've run into a new issue now because of it and that is that now during gaming my 3090 is sucking up 400-450w on average while gaming.
So I guess the next thing is to undervolt the 3090.
Has anyone here done that? I've watched a few videos, all detailing different methods to do it, some more time consuming than others.
Is there a "best" method?
I've run into a new issue now because of it and that is that now during gaming my 3090 is sucking up 400-450w on average while gaming.
So I guess the next thing is to undervolt the 3090.
Has anyone here done that? I've watched a few videos, all detailing different methods to do it, some more time consuming than others.
Is there a "best" method?
"Time consuming" is generally better, for stability.
You can also simply lower the power limit in Afterburner. Its not undervolting. You'll lose a few percent off the top end of performance. But, its a very quick thing to do, to manage power and heat.
Unfortunately it's been this way for years now; the Windows Bluetooth stack in general just has a lot of issue, with both elite and regular controllers (and lots of other devices). The adapter is really the only reliable solution (and I can vouch for having had no issues with it for going on several years).
If I use a USB Hub then I can load it up to capacity and they work fine, its only if they are plugged directly into the Motherboard or front panel that they act up. Its a strange one
Make sure your bios and all your mobo drivers are up to date. As well as Windows.
Otherwise, you probably have a device which doesn't play well with others.
Hi, I recently got a second monitor and have some questions regarding the dual monitor setup with a Win11 OS.
How can I make the taskbar vertical on my second (vertical) monitor?
And Also is there a way to pin different apps to different taskbars? I prefer the settings in which the apps are only shown on the taskbar of the display where the app is opened, but when that behavior is activated, the second taskbar does not show any of the pinned apps.
How can I make the taskbar vertical on my second (vertical) monitor?
And Also is there a way to pin different apps to different taskbars? I prefer the settings in which the apps are only shown on the taskbar of the display where the app is opened, but when that behavior is activated, the second taskbar does not show any of the pinned apps.
I'm having an issue where a game isn't abiding by me forcing adaptive half-refresh vsync. I have it set in the nvidia control panel, but this one game still runs at 60 fps. Half refresh works in any other game I try, just not this one. This is the first time I've ever had a game do this.
Are there some other methods I could use to try to force the game to abide by the adaptive half refresh I have set in the nvidia control panel?
(I can force 30 fps through RTSS and the game actually stays at 30 fps, but it is extremely stuttery and has terrible frame times so that isn't an option)
Are there some other methods I could use to try to force the game to abide by the adaptive half refresh I have set in the nvidia control panel?
(I can force 30 fps through RTSS and the game actually stays at 30 fps, but it is extremely stuttery and has terrible frame times so that isn't an option)
About +25%. Considering that they both have 8GBs of memory getting a 3070 above 2070S for more than these +25% isn't a good idea.
MTP feels fragile everytime I use it, so some things you could try are:
- Zip up the contents of the folder, transfer it over, then extract within Android
- Set up an FTP server on Android then use an FTP client on your PC to transfer files (this would only be over Wi-Fi)
- If you're comfortable with the command line, you can use ADB (via USB or Wi-Fi) to push or pull files to Android
Thank you. I've already done it (took sooo long), but I'll keep in mind zipping it next time. Was such a major pain lol
According to computerbase at time of release of the 3070, the performance difference was either around +35% or -25%, depending on your reference point. Though the general point still stands.
Thank you both. I will go for the 2070S then.