PC questions that don't really deserve their own thread.

thenexus6 · Dec 5, 2019

So I discovered am I for some reason now unable to change where new apps are installed

I had it on D: (my big drive) but had to change it to C to install the Nvidia control panel, now I can't go back.

I've searched the error code, but I have no problems with virus, windows updater, admin. I ran a scan on cmd prompt and it said "Windows Resource Protection found corrupt files and successfully repaired them."

But I just don't get it.

Feep · Dec 5, 2019

Oof. Having a really serious problem now, at a *very* bad time.

My computer was being weird so I restarted...and Windows just hung while in the loading screen. Okay. Turned it off, now Windows tried to start Automatic Recovery.

It then went onto a black screen...with a working low res mouse pointer, I might add, but nothing there. Repeated attempts were the same.

I then popped in a Windows boot USB drive that I often use to install windows, and here a *blue* screen came up, not black, but it's the same thing...working mouse pointer but nothing on the screen to click on.

What the heck? I thought it might be my monitor giving it weird resolutions but I tried another different monitor and got the exact same thing. What in the world could be causing this? Off a USB boot drive? What?

Edit: USB boot drive is confirmed working on another machine, too.

flyinj · Dec 5, 2019

I asked this before, but never got an answer... hoping someone new sees it and knows the answer:

On a wireless Logitech keyboard, there is a hotkey combination you can press which will make it so the function keys act like function keys instead of hot keys (which is their default behavior). Does anyone know what this hotkey combo is? There used to be an article with the hotkey combo in it on the logitech support forums, but they wiped it. I kept meaning to mail the combo to myself, but I was always able to just google search it before and it was like the first result.

(I can't use any logitech software to do this, as none of the many different software packages I've used from Logitech recognizes my keyboard)

Skyfireblaze · Dec 5, 2019

Feep said:
Oof. Having a really serious problem now, at a *very* bad time.

My computer was being weird so I restarted...and Windows just hung while in the loading screen. Okay. Turned it off, now Windows tried to start Automatic Recovery.

It then went onto a black screen...with a working low res mouse pointer, I might add, but nothing there. Repeated attempts were the same.

I then popped in a Windows boot USB drive that I often use to install windows, and here a *blue* screen came up, not black, but it's the same thing...working mouse pointer but nothing on the screen to click on.

What the heck? I thought it might be my monitor giving it weird resolutions but I tried another different monitor and got the exact same thing. What in the world could be causing this? Off a USB boot drive? What?

Edit: USB boot drive is confirmed working on another machine, too.

Honestly that sounds like some hardware fault, my immediate thoughts are it might be a bad GPU, PSU so the GPU doesn't have enough power to jump to its proper full-power mode or who knows maybe even the RAM. Although that leads more to BSODs than anything else :/

Feep · Dec 5, 2019

Skyfireblaze said:
Honestly that sounds like some hardware fault, my immediate thoughts are it might be a bad GPU, PSU so the GPU doesn't have enough power to jump to its proper full-power mode or who knows maybe even the RAM. Although that leads more to BSODs than anything else :/

I literally have a deadline VERY soon, so I'm in the process of moving my drives over (tested with SMART in Ubuntu, they seem to be okay) to a completely separate tower, LOL. I'll experiment with individual pieces later. Ughughughugh.

Skyfireblaze · Dec 5, 2019

Feep said:
I literally have a deadline VERY soon, so I'm in the process of moving my drives over (tested with SMART in Ubuntu, they seem to be okay) to a completely separate tower, LOL. I'll experiment with individual pieces later. Ughughughugh.

My condolences, I know how annoying these things can be. Yeah these aren't typical symptoms of HDD failure, like said I would start with testing another GPU first, possibly the OnBoard if the system has one.

Lashley · Dec 7, 2019

Why does my power button LED and RAM RGB (smh) stay on when I turn the PC off? They only turn off when I flick the switch off.

Checked the BIOS and put LGBs to stealth mode when off, and disabled USB power delivery in soft state but it didn't help.

The motherboard is Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard
The case is Phanteks Eclipse P400 ATX Mid Tower Case
RAM is G.Skill Trident Z Neo DDR4 3600MHz PC4-28800 CL18 RGB

xyla · Dec 8, 2019

XR. said:
For future reference, you should also check out the PC build thread for any PC-related issues since it sees considerably more traffic than this one. ;)

As for your issue, are you on the latest BIOS?

Dec said:
This might simply be a quirk of your BIOS, handful of folks still experiencing issues like this on b450 motherboards with Zen 2 CPUs.

There should be a new BIOS since the one your motherboard shipped with. However consider just leaving it if the issue is not bothering you much.

Which BIOS version are you on?

Skyfireblaze said:
Just an idea but check if your NVMe also has a new firmware available. Maybe your NVMe needs a reboot currently to correctly "wake up".

So the weirdest thing seems to have fixed the issue - I want to sell my old PC atm, got an offer and wanted to start cleaning the SSDs - turns out something went bad and I can't get the old PC to boot anymore. Oh well. BUT

I took out the SSD and put it in my new PC to clean it and check if it still runs fine. Turns out, having this in the PC solves the boot issue. It boots just fine as long as there's an SSD connected aside from the NVME that's already in there.

Skyfireblaze · Dec 8, 2019

xyla said:
So the weirdest thing seems to have fixed the issue - I want to sell my old PC atm, got an offer and wanted to start cleaning the SSDs - turns out something went bad and I can't get the old PC to boot anymore. Oh well. BUT

I took out the SSD and put it in my new PC to clean it and check if it still runs fine. Turns out, having this in the PC solves the boot issue. It boots just fine as long as there's an SSD connected aside from the NVME that's already in there.

Okay that's a weird one o.o But then again I saw PCs acting even stranger before so yeah...

xyla · Dec 8, 2019

Skyfireblaze said:
Okay that's a weird one o.o But then again I saw PCs acting even stranger before so yeah...

Well, now I feel stupid - it didn't work at all after all :P
Seems like it only works if I completely cut off power and after that I get a normal boot. Shutting down or going to standby won't work again.

Deleted member 9183 · Dec 8, 2019

Lashley said:
Why does my power button LED and RAM RGB (smh) stay on when I turn the PC off? They only turn off when I flick the switch off.

Checked the BIOS and put LGBs to stealth mode when off, and disabled USB power delivery in soft state but it didn't help.

The motherboard is Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard
The case is Phanteks Eclipse P400 ATX Mid Tower Case
RAM is G.Skill Trident Z Neo DDR4 3600MHz PC4-28800 CL18 RGB

Try looking for the APM Configuration settings and change ErP Ready to S5.

Lashley · Dec 8, 2019

UltimateIke said:
Try looking for the APM Configuration settings and change ErP Ready to S5.

I did :( Power LED and one of the case LEDs remained on

Deleted member 9183 · Dec 8, 2019

Lashley said:
I did :( Power LED and one of the case LEDs remained on

If the case is connected and drawing power directly from the PSU, it might not matter what you change the BIOS settings to. I'm not exactly sure how everything is connected or what kind of LED Controllers it might be using. Those aren't really something I have any experience using.

They talk about controlling LEDs on their website, but I don't know if this is applicable to your situation or not.

http://www.phanteks.com/FAQ.html#DRGB

The answer I found from some Googling was just "Press the LED button on the case and hold it down until the controller turns off."

Edit 1: This looks like a SATA Power connector to me, so if that is connected to the PSU, that's maybe what is powering the LEDs even when the motherboard is off? I've never used a case with anything like it.

Edit 2: Found this video about controlling the LEDs too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vJAdljVGhg

Skyfireblaze · Dec 8, 2019

xyla said:
Well, now I feel stupid - it didn't work at all after all :P
Seems like it only works if I completely cut off power and after that I get a normal boot. Shutting down or going to standby won't work again.

Hmm what happens when you bring your PC in a situation where it wouldn't boot and then go to your UEFI's Boot Menu, is "Windows Boot Manager" or your NVMe listed at all?

xyla · Dec 8, 2019

Skyfireblaze said:
Hmm what happens when you bring your PC in a situation where it wouldn't boot and then go to your UEFI's Boot Menu, is "Windows Boot Manager" or your NVMe listed at all?

Yip, it shows up like it should.

Skyfireblaze · Dec 8, 2019

xyla said:
Yip, it shows up like it should.

And if you manually select it then?

Megasoum · Dec 8, 2019

Are they any good cheap NAS solutions available? I really don't need anything fancy... It's mainly to store my Plex server data..

Right now I use the USB port on my router which is working ok but, for some weird reason, Linksys only supports SMB 1.0... Which is not only unsecure, but super slow.

At first I thought of using the Rasberry Pi 3b+ I have laying around since I'm not using it for anything but then I remembered that the 3b+ only has USB2.0 ports (that's really stupid btw...)

RandomExpletive · Dec 8, 2019

Megasoum said:
Are they any good cheap NAS solutions available? I really don't need anything fancy... It's mainly to store my Plex server data..

Right now I use the USB port on my router which is working ok but, for some weird reason, Linksys only supports SMB 1.0... Which is not only unsecure, but super slow.

At first I thought of using the Rasberry Pi 3b+ I have laying around since I'm not using it for anything but then I remembered that the 3b+ only has USB2.0 ports (that's really stupid btw...)

If you've already got a HDD you can slap it into one of these and get it setup pretty quick

https://www.hardkernel.com/shop/odroid-hc2-home-cloud-two/

RJeddy · Dec 8, 2019

Very not-smart question with refresh rates and FPS:

I have a pretty decent computer that I built about a year ago along with a 144hz monitor w/ GSync. While I've been able to play a lot of games without dropping FPS, with some of these announced titles coming there's no way I'm going to maintain a consistent~144fps+ in them. For these games, should I be lowering my refresh rate to somewhere around the most stable fps, or just keep it where it is?
Ex. Say I'm playing Cyberpunk next year and I get around ~100-110 fps consistently. Should my refresh rate be lowered to a smaller setting - say 120hz, or lower? Or, no matter what, should I just keep the refresh rate at 144?

XR. · Dec 8, 2019

loltna said:
Very not-smart question with refresh rates and FPS:

I have a pretty decent computer that I built about a year ago along with a 144hz monitor w/ GSync. While I've been able to play a lot of games without dropping FPS, with some of these announced titles coming there's no way I'm going to maintain a consistent~144fps+ in them. For these games, should I be lowering my refresh rate to somewhere around the most stable fps, or just keep it where it is?
Ex. Say I'm playing Cyberpunk next year and I get around ~100-110 fps consistently. Should my refresh rate be lowered to a smaller setting - say 120hz, or lower? Or, no matter what, should I just keep the refresh rate at 144?

There's really no point in changing refresh rate, especially if you're using G-Sync. G-Sync will adapt the refresh rate automatically so no need to lower it even if you're playing in 30fps.

I would only recommend changing refresh rate if you'd want perfect frame pacing in video (say 23.976fps movies in 24Hz, 120Hz or 144Hz and 25fps movies in 50Hz or 100Hz etc.).

sredgrin · Dec 8, 2019

loltna said:
Very not-smart question with refresh rates and FPS:

I have a pretty decent computer that I built about a year ago along with a 144hz monitor w/ GSync. While I've been able to play a lot of games without dropping FPS, with some of these announced titles coming there's no way I'm going to maintain a consistent~144fps+ in them. For these games, should I be lowering my refresh rate to somewhere around the most stable fps, or just keep it where it is?
Ex. Say I'm playing Cyberpunk next year and I get around ~100-110 fps consistently. Should my refresh rate be lowered to a smaller setting - say 120hz, or lower? Or, no matter what, should I just keep the refresh rate at 144?

It doesn't matter. Gsync monitors are variable refresh rate monitors. They change with your content already.

Though I personally just use 120 on my gsync monitor because it's kind of a universal catch all for stuff that doesn't benefit from gsync (low frame rate games, videos, etc, all multiply into 120 more often than they do 144).

Premium Ghoul · Dec 9, 2019

Summer has started here in Australia and I've noticed that my GPU is about 5-7 degrees cooler if I remove my PC's side panel. I've already got three fans (one intake, two exhaust) and I'm unsure if adding more would make a difference or not.

My case is a Fractal Design Meshify C and the fans are laid out like this:

I could fit another in the front and another on top.

Serious Sam · Dec 9, 2019

Premium Ghoul said:
Summer has started here in Australia and I've noticed that my GPU is about 5-7 degrees cooler if I remove my PC's side panel. I've already got three fans (one intake, two exhaust) and I'm unsure if adding more would make a difference or not.

My case is a Fractal Design Meshify C and the fans are laid out like this:

I could fit another in the front and another on top.

Fractal cases aren't known for the best airflow (even Meshify ones), but you could try repositioning top fan to be used as another front intake. More fans won't help. 2-3 fans is ideal, anything above that and you are hit hard with diminishing returns.

Also, if you remove dust foam/filter thing behind the front panel it will increase airflow tremendously (as confirmed by Gamer's Nexus).

Deleted member 49611 · Dec 9, 2019

Premium Ghoul said:
Summer has started here in Australia and I've noticed that my GPU is about 5-7 degrees cooler if I remove my PC's side panel. I've already got three fans (one intake, two exhaust) and I'm unsure if adding more would make a difference or not.

My case is a Fractal Design Meshify C and the fans are laid out like this:

I could fit another in the front and another on top.

take one of the top exhaust and uses it as a front intake. move the other top exhaust over above the CPU heatsink. if you can fit a 3rd front intake then do that. just take the second top exhaust and use that. warm air naturally rises so you don't need a fan doing that. it helps if you can but it's not needed.

it should improve airflow and since you won't be sucking dust and all sorts of other crappy particles (hair/fluff/junk) it will keep your system cleaner and therefore keep temperatures down over the long term.

Premium Ghoul · Dec 9, 2019

Alright, thank you both. I'll rearrange the fans so there's more intake on the front and hopefully I'll see a difference.

ThreepQuest64 · Dec 11, 2019

I bought an Inno3D RTX 2070 Super Twin X2 OC and first noticed significantly lower performance. LuxMark 3.1 should give around 6300 points, Shadow of the Tomb Raider should achieve 78 fps, while my card only achieved 67 fps in TR and only 5600 points in LuxMark. However: After I installed Windows 10 completely new (I didn't after Mainboard and CPU switch...) and I did everything fresh (format c), I get better values now: 6000 points in LuxMark (still 5% off though) and indeed 78fps in TR (another website claimed 72fps) with the exact same settings the benchmark websites say.

However: UserBenchmark says that my card performs "way below expectations (4th percentile)" whatever 4th percentile means. with 90,1% while the majority seems to bench at 114%. Does the majority of the RTX 2070 Super overclock their cards or is something wrong?

Using Windows 10, Ryzen 5 3600, MSI b450-a pro max mainboard with a 600W PU from Cooler Master.

Skyfireblaze · Dec 11, 2019

ThreepQuest64 said:
I bought an Inno3D RTX 2070 Super Twin X2 OC and first noticed significantly lower performance. LuxMark 3.1 should give around 6300 points, Shadow of the Tomb Raider should achieve 78 fps, while my card only achieved 67 fps in TR and only 5600 points in LuxMark. However: After I installed Windows 10 completely new (I didn't after Mainboard and CPU switch...) and I did everything fresh (format c), I get better values now: 6000 points in LuxMark (still 5% off though) and indeed 78fps in TR (another website claimed 72fps) with the exact same settings the benchmark websites say.

However: UserBenchmark says that my card performs "way below expectations (4th percentile)" whatever 4th percentile means. with 90,1% while the majority seems to bench at 114%. Does the majority of the RTX 2070 Super overclock their cards or is something wrong?

Using Windows 10, Ryzen 5 3600, MSI b450-a pro max mainboard with a 600W PU from Cooler Master.

All I can say is that sites like UserBenchmark are in no way accurate from my last stand of knowledge and shouldn't be used for reference at all.

ThreepQuest64 · Dec 11, 2019

Skyfireblaze said:
All I can say is that sites like UserBenchmark are in no way accurate from my last stand of knowledge and shouldn't be used for reference at all.

Alright, thank you! As long as GAMES run well and perform very similar to benchmarks (Guru, PCGamesHardware, etc.) I think I'm good.

Skyfireblaze · Dec 11, 2019

ThreepQuest64 said:
Alright, thank you! As long as GAMES run well and perform very similar to benchmarks (Guru, PCGamesHardware, etc.) I think I'm good.

Yeah that's a good way to go about that :)

RedSwirl · Dec 11, 2019

Anybody remember what graphics settings in Infinite Warfare are the costliest? I haven't found a single tweak guide for that game.

Dinjoralo · Dec 12, 2019

For some reason, my PC keeps losing focus of games that I'm playing. It doesn't alt-tab to something else or go to the desktop, if the game's a borderless window, the game will still be on top, it will just be uncontrollable until I alt-tab back to it.

I've tried scouring Windows' Event Viewer, but I can't find anything. I suspect it might be the most recent update to GOG Galaxy that's doing it, but I can't be sure since it happens so randomly and irregularly.

NotLocke · Dec 13, 2019

Found this on my Corsair H115i when dusting out my PC. I plan to remove the fans and get a better look at the other side tomorrow, but could find nothing like this in a Google search. It is about 4 years old and I got it at a Microcenter. I'm afraid to turn my PC on again if this could eventually cause a leak. Any recommendations?

criesofthepast · Dec 13, 2019

Anyone know why a laptop fan would ONLY run at full speed? The left fan on my acer laptop when it kicks on, only runs at full speed. Whereas my right fan is fine.

I have downloaded fan control software and even if I set the left fan to 10%, it only runs at 100%. I have opened it up and cleaned and etc (thermal paste re-apply) but I can't say whats causing this. What would cause that? Faulty sensor/ fan cable or something?

Dec · Dec 13, 2019

criesofthepast said:
Anyone know why a laptop fan would ONLY run at full speed? The left fan on my acer laptop when it kicks on, only runs at full speed. Whereas my right fan is fine.

I have downloaded fan control software and even if I set the left fan to 10%, it only runs at 100%. I have opened it up and cleaned and etc (thermal paste re-apply) but I can't say whats causing this. What would cause that? Faulty sensor/ fan cable or something?

hard to say, but probably cable/connector. It may be a 4 pin fan without one working for some reason, causing PWM not to work.

criesofthepast · Dec 13, 2019

Dec said:
hard to say, but probably cable/connector. It may be a 4 pin fan without one working for some reason, causing PWM not to work.

So weird but i turned on my laptop after posting and tested the fan and it seemed to be working normal. But i think for sure there is a faulty connector/cable there. I will keep an eye on it but thanks for the response.

Skyfireblaze · Dec 15, 2019

I'm facing a very bizarre problem with my PC right now. Back when I still ran a 120gb SSD as my OS drive I disabled Windows 10 Hibernate Feature to save some disk-space which means I also lost Hybrid Fast Boot but that was okay. Now that I have a 512gb SSD I re-enabled it and it works as expected but it affects something I can't explain.

With the hibernation feature off my Razer Goliathus Chroma RGB mousepad stayed solid-lit after I turned my PC off which I actually liked since it acted as a sort of night-light before I turned the power fully off.

With the hibernation feature on the mousepad blinks on and off very faintly when I turn my PC off until I completely cut the power which is very annoying and also not healthy for the LEDs I assume. Can someone tell me what's going on here? o.o

Tribes of Trusty · Dec 18, 2019

Hi there

I have both a wired internet connection through my ISP and I have a 4G phone with an unlimited plan.

Is there an easy way on Windows 10 to use the wired connection for certain applications/software and use the WiFi to the 4G Phone (acting as a tethered device via WiFi) for other applications ?
Like use the Wired internet for downloading stuff on steam and using the 4G connection for browsing the web ?

Thanks !

flyinj · Dec 18, 2019

I have a Pinnacle Game Profiler question. Unfortunately their forums have been down for like a year, so I don't really know where else I could ask this.

Is it possible to set up a hotkey to enable/disable a profile entirely?

Basically, with Mechwarrior 5, there is no controller support for the menus. I want to set up a hotkey that enables the a profile when I am between missions in the menus so that my controller stick moves the mouse cursor and buttons emulate right and left mouse. However, I need to disable this when an actual mission starts.

xGrizzly · Dec 18, 2019

Two questions:

1. Are there any reliable programs to check system specs? I know of Speccy but also heard that it's iffy.

2. I get constant screen-tearing on my TV. My PC outputs to both my monitor and TV and I use Steam's Big Picture Mode as a way to leisurely play games here and there. The only issue is the consistent screen-tearing. In the Nvidia Control Panel I have V-Sync set to Adaptive but it doesn't seem to work for the TV display. Anyone else have this issue?

Dec · Dec 18, 2019

xGrizzly said:
Two questions:

1. Are there any reliable programs to check system specs? I know of Speccy but also heard that it's iffy.

2. I get constant screen-tearing on my TV. My PC outputs to both my monitor and TV and I use Steam's Big Picture Mode as a way to leisurely play games here and there. The only issue is the consistent screen-tearing. In the Nvidia Control Panel I have V-Sync set to Adaptive but it doesn't seem to work for the TV display. Anyone else have this issue?

HWiNFO

xGrizzly · Dec 19, 2019

Dec said:
HWiNFO

Will look into, thanks! :)

Lashley · Dec 19, 2019

Will this be stable? Testing it now

Not sure if those clock speeds are any good

EDIT: Ok yeah, time to dial it back lol

"21:07:18 Test completed, confidence level is 26%"

パンダさん · Dec 22, 2019

I've got my PC hooked up to my 4k TV. I set the desktop res to 2560x1440 so that I can utilize 120hz.
When I try to play games in fullscreen mode at 4k res I'm getting the following artifacts.
This happens in Doom and Halo:MCC. Sekiro worked fine. Any ideas?
It worked already so I've got the suspision that it's a problem with some nvidia control panel setting,
although I haven't fiddled around with them recently.

ChristianM · Dec 22, 2019

febLey said:
When I try to play games in fullscreen mode at 4k res I'm getting the following artifacts.

My guess is that the games still try to run in 120hz in 4K which your TV can't handle. Sekiro does not go beyond 60 so it's probably the reason it works. I had the same issue with Control on my LG C9.

パンダさん · Dec 22, 2019

ChristianM said:
My guess is that the games still try to run in 120hz in 4K which your TV can't handle. Sekiro does not go beyond 60 so it's probably the reason it works. I had the same issue with Control on my LG C9.

Ah, makes sense. I've also got the LG C9.

sleepnaught · Dec 22, 2019

I have a Gigabit connection with an ISP provided wifi router in my living room. It works great for the majority of the house, except to the master bedroom at the other end of the house. Is there a repeater or some kind of device that can extend the wifi range without much added latency?

Deleted member 56306 · Dec 22, 2019

What can I use to clean dust that stays inside the case in harder to reach locations?

Skyfireblaze · Dec 22, 2019

sleepnaught said:
I have a Gigabit connection with an ISP provided wifi router in my living room. It works great for the majority of the house, except to the master bedroom at the other end of the house. Is there a repeater or some kind of device that can extend the wifi range without much added latency?

You could try PowerlIne adapters, they are basically establishing a LAN-Network over your electrical grid and can work anywhere from terrible to amazing based on your houses electrical-wiring so if you want to test them make sure that the place you buy them from has a good return policy.

MazeHaze · Dec 22, 2019

febLey said:
Ah, makes sense. I've also got the LG C9.

Change your NCP to upscale on the GPU maybe?

.exe · Dec 22, 2019

Been having some problems with my PC. First my keyboard was acting a little weird. Random disconnects. As part of the troubleshooting process I uninstalled a number of USB ports, trying to figure out if it had anything to do with their drivers. So, I turned off my PC and wanted to start it up again to get it to reinitialize those USB ports.

Except I couldn't get my PC to boot up anymore. That's the first time I noticed this behavior. It didn't even post. I hear a click, my GPU's logo flashes briefly, the fans begin spinning (only on my CPU though), and then everything turns off. Light on the motherboard's power button is on. The error display is off though, so no idea what's happening there. The light on my case's power button is on as if the PC itself is also on. Holding down the power button until it turns off and then trying again sometimes works. But usually only power cycling does the trick. Even then, it's not guaranteed.

Strangely, it only does this from a cold boot or when trying to wake from sleep. If I restart my PC, it will just restart properly every time. I'm getting the feeling it might be my PSU? I don't know.

I checked my motherboard and it seems clean. No leaky capacitors or whatever. Memory is properly seated. Doubled checked the power cable from my PSU to my motherboard. Seems fine?

If anyone's got ideas on how to diagnose this, I'd be super thankful.

PC questions that don't really deserve their own thread.

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