Yeeeeessssss
One of us. One of us
Digital Split Prism is what made me switch to Fuji, and it is sooooo good.
-
Ever wanted an RSS feed of all your favorite gaming news sites? Go check out our new Gaming Headlines feed! Read more about it here.
One of us. One of us
Digital Split Prism is what made me switch to Fuji, and it is sooooo good.
Fuji has the best manual focus aids.
I only have this shot because of manual focusing:
DSCF5884 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
Hello everyone!
So I just got my Fuji x-t20 and I am going to be doing street photography and portraits. I was wondering what's the best mode to use for these, aperture priority, shutter priority, or manual. This is isn't mainly a hobby, I want to take this to a professional route and just want to make sure that I am doing the best with my craft.
So I just got my Fuji x-t20 and I am going to be doing street photography and portraits. I was wondering what's the best mode to use for these, aperture priority, shutter priority, or manual. This is isn't mainly a hobby, I want to take this to a professional route and just want to make sure that I am doing the best with my craft.
If you have aspirations of professional photography, you'd do well to take a beginner class or start reading some good books like Understanding Exposure. There is no easy answer to you question, but having some baseline knowledge about what exposure is would enable you to answer that question appropriately per situation.
nope
Go out and find user impressions. With cameras in particular, a lot of dedicated sites are all about the most extreeeeeeme of details, and, IMO, "miss the forest for the trees". If you're a working photographer professional, those sites will be of use, but those sites won't even look at the majority of lenses that I buy to begin with.
Best thing to do is figure out 'what kind' of lens you want, figure out what lenses fit that criteria, and then search for the impressions of people using them. Some small IQ flaw on a lens might be poised as a HUGE flaw in DxO or DPReview, but hey, maybe it actually gives the lens some character that looks really nice, even if it's not 'accurate', and people online will talk about that.
yea i did photography and film years ago, im just now getting back into it, but yea ill take some small classes. but like others, i do feel like i will be able to pick it up on my own.
I shoot manual more or less for everything. Hit up YouTube for the basics and yeah I guess pick up the understanding exposure book and then start hitting the streets to apply what you've learned as well as learning your compositional eye. Reading helps, but doing, putting it into practice, fucking up and learning from that helps a lot as well.
DXO Mark is more or less bullshit that may or may not have been paying Tony Northrup to plug their site. I pretty much look at a lot of reviews, shift through the various opinions, figure out which one is truly nit picky bullshit, compare it to what I care about, look to see if there are any secondhand deals and go from there.
Pretty much this, FredMiranda doesn't seem too bad either because a lot them seem to actually be working photographers.
Got a source on this? I've been given the impression that they conduct the most thorough testing of just about anyone out there. Where the controversy comes in is in their weighted system where they value certain aspects of image quality more so than others. They use this to come up with their final "score". The main example I like to use of this (where I'd disagree with them) is them rating the D610 sensor slightly over the D750, due to them valuing color bit depth over dynamic range (apparently). That, and if a manufacturer uses their testing software/methods, they could, hypothetically, "game" the system in a way so that they develop a sensor that performs better in their tests rather than "better overall". I think this is actually bullshit and would require the tests/measurements of their software to be invalid. Like, could you make a sensor that hit very high marks where DxO looks for performance the most and have it actually end up being a poor performer? I'm guessing not.
edit: And to answer the relevant question, I wouldn't use DxOMark as the sole source on image quality or whether to buy a lens or camera, but it very well may factor in. The Camera Store, DP Review, and others give some valuable information.
I honestly just said that just due to how often he used to plug that site, it always just seemed fishy to me
They can be the standard, but I haven't checked that site for years.
Ahhh. Yeah, it's foolish to recommend a camera (or a smartphone) based on their score alone. The former doesn't take into consideration a few areas of usage (including handling/design/etc.), and the latter case fails to be a review on, well, everything else about the PHONE. But for straightforward sensor numbers, they do a very thorough job. The lenses are a little confusing sometimes, because you can't always compare resolution from a lens on a particular body to another - there is no "control" camera body. But, say, you can compare 3rd party lenses to native lenses of the same mount/body quite nicely. Again, cannot test every dimension of a lens, but for what they do/can test, it's quite good.
I see on DP Review that of the mirrorless bodies, the two top scoring models seem to be Nikon and Sony
Is that the consensus in mirrorless lately? I see many like Fuji too
Me, the guy who made the smartphone thread, once wanted a Sony mirrorless camera and I'd like to get back into researching it though don't have a need for one yet
Is that the consensus in mirrorless lately? I see many like Fuji too
Me, the guy who made the smartphone thread, once wanted a Sony mirrorless camera and I'd like to get back into researching it though don't have a need for one yet
I went from Sony to Fuji for every reason other than sensor quality, and I could not be happier.
Take that as you will.
I would never, never, NEVER EVER pick a current Nikon mirrorless camera over a Fuji one. Hell, Nikon's dud ass camera is what made me buy an X-T3.
Yeah a camera isn't just a sensor, there's a lot more that goes into it and a lens isn't just sharpness. Once I had Sigma lenses just get weird AF wise I stopped really looking at them, but everybody still sings the praises of them. Sony's are great, but I don't exactly "love" the handling of them. I can live with it, but yeesh.
Shot with the 56 1.2, haven't used it enough since I got it.
DSCF5908 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
DSCF5964 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
DSCF5974 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
DSCF6110 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
DSCF6160 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
DSCF6096 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
DSCF6010 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
DSCF5915 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
DSCF6090 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
Last edited:
But without IBIS, meh. Video is probably great but requiring a gimbal is a no-go for a lot of folks.
I think that's almost double the price of the a6300 so I wouldn't consider it a competing model
I don't think the a6300 has that either
My job is littered with tripods so usually if I need to do video for work I can just grab one. I'd rather do video on my Fuji then a T4I or an FS700 or EX3. Also the A6300 if I'm not mistaken has digital stabilization.
The X-T2 and X-T20 are also no slouches for video.
I mean Panasonic took the IBIS out of the GH5s, so it really just depends on who you ask. I'd still get something like an X-H1 for run and gun stuff personally, but it really depends on how invested you are into Fuji.
Hey, what's the easiest to use and cheapest editing software out now? I hate doing this shit....basically resize, fade correction, boost things here and there...the simpler, the better.
Also went to Adorama and checked out the Sonys and the Fujis. I know on paper the Sonys are better and all that, but the Fuji was magic on hand, every control is so intuitive and just there, you need that. The Sony I had to deep dive into menus and shit. The 18 - 55 f/2.8 - 4 also seems to be a very capable walkabout lens...and had no idea that the 18mm f/2 existed!! It is tiny!!! And it's a great focal length for the travelling I do!!
Also went to Adorama and checked out the Sonys and the Fujis. I know on paper the Sonys are better and all that, but the Fuji was magic on hand, every control is so intuitive and just there, you need that. The Sony I had to deep dive into menus and shit. The 18 - 55 f/2.8 - 4 also seems to be a very capable walkabout lens...and had no idea that the 18mm f/2 existed!! It is tiny!!! And it's a great focal length for the travelling I do!!
This past weekend we went to celebrate a family member's birthday with some of his friends in a remote village out district. The family that was hosting us did some real old school pork cooking; slaughtering the pig themselves, cooking it, and leaving it to marinate underground for 24hrs. Took a few pictures of the men digging:
IMG_8419 by Kelston Jacobs, on Flickr
IMG_8420 by Kelston Jacobs, on Flickr
IMG_8425 by Kelston Jacobs, on Flickr
Then I thought the older woman stirring the pot, explaining to my sis-in-law how the whole process works made for some cool shots:
IMG_8426 by Kelston Jacobs, on Flickr
IMG_8429 by Kelston Jacobs, on Flickr
IMG_8443 by Kelston Jacobs, on Flickr
Last picture is just one I took of the large river that borders us and Mexico. Couldn't find a good vantage point, but I still liked this one:
IMG_8536 by Kelston Jacobs, on Flickr
IMG_8419 by Kelston Jacobs, on Flickr
IMG_8420 by Kelston Jacobs, on Flickr
IMG_8425 by Kelston Jacobs, on FlickrThen I thought the older woman stirring the pot, explaining to my sis-in-law how the whole process works made for some cool shots:
IMG_8426 by Kelston Jacobs, on Flickr
IMG_8429 by Kelston Jacobs, on Flickr
IMG_8443 by Kelston Jacobs, on FlickrLast picture is just one I took of the large river that borders us and Mexico. Couldn't find a good vantage point, but I still liked this one:
IMG_8536 by Kelston Jacobs, on Flickr
Fuji lacks nothing, it lacks some bells and whistles yes, but at the same time if you don't need the bells and whistles then just get the Fuji. I actually enjoy shooting on my Fuji camera so that makes a lot of difference. Just hot key the most important stuff and then never touch that menu again. Also Fuji makes some great lenses. They have hands down the best crop sensor ecosystem.
Are you shooting that constantly moving older woman in the AF mode meant for buildings? She's out in every picture and your shutter speed is too long.This past weekend we went to celebrate a family member's birthday with some of his friends in a remote village out district. The family that was hosting us did some real old school pork cooking; slaughtering the pig themselves, cooking it, and leaving it to marinate underground for 24hrs. Took a few pictures of the men digging:
Then I thought the older woman stirring the pot, explaining to my sis-in-law how the whole process works made for some cool shots:
Last picture is just one I took of the large river that borders us and Mexico. Couldn't find a good vantage point, but I still liked this one:
Nah it's just my lens at f1.8 is a bit soft. I can clearly see movement in her hands, but I thought her face was passable at least.
A bit is putting it lightly. Please take no offense it's just that I think that lens is worse than the Nikon 50 1.8.
None taken no worries. Oh yeah, Canon's 50mm 1.8 definitely is softer than the Nikon's. I think either my lens or my camera's autofocus system is kinda botched too though. Unfortunately, we don't have any camera stores here in my country that I would be able to do any kind of calibration.
I think her face is fine, especially if you're not zooming in. Good colors as usual :). The Canon Nifty Fifty is a bit slow to focus, but it's hard to argue with the price. Are you using AI Servo or One Shot?
So do I with my own photos. Slightly out of focus eyes are definitely getting thrown in the bin if I have any alternatives in which they are sharp, but sometimes the shot is worth keeping even if the eyes aren't tack sharp or there is a bit of motion blur.
Yeah I'm like this as well. If the moment is right I keep it these days.
Any thoughts on the 18 - 55 lens? Also easy to use photo editing software?
It's good for a kit lens, but it's not something I would use for work. I tried it for portraits once and it was not for me, it's not junk though, I just like the 16-55 and the primes a lot more. Pretty much get the kit lens, see how much you like it and see if there are any primes you like, the primes overall and the constant aperture zooms beat it out depending on what you're doing with it. It's a good street street and landscape lens. Regarding software LightRoom is functional, you just have to get good at tweaking those RAF files. Everything I tweaked above was done in LightRoom.
I've found it really impressive. Much much much better than standard 18-55 kit lenses. It's well built, has good quality through the whole range, and is very versatile. Definitely a keeper for me, which would of course be replaced by primes for specific uses.
I swear I must be the only person not in love with the kit lens. I guess I had way too high expectations and had to compare it to a ridiculous set up that I was using like the week before, which was a D810 with the 2.8 24-70. The kit lens wasn't reaching that and I really would not use that for indoor events to be honest, just me though.
Yeah that's not comparable gear to me. Fixed aperture zooms are usually some higher end stuff.
It won't beat more expensive lenses that's for sure, but for its price/versatility, I think it's a terrific lens. I "might" be biased since I got with my X-E1 for 300 the lot, but heh :)
It's a good price bargain, but it all depends on what you're comparing it to. I didn't love my X-T2 till I popped the 35F2 on there, that's when I learned what that camera is actually capable of...also helped that the further along I got the better I became at editing the files. RAF's are tricky when you first start dealing with them.
The thing with not having IBIS for video is that your lens needs to have it for the most part. Whenever I try to take videos with my primes it looks way too shaky a lot of the time. But the 18-55 kit lens is amazing for video if you can work around the variable aperture.
Yeah, as usual, it's a zoom, with its perks & drawbacks. But it's a really great one, with IS also, that offers very satisfying results for a various range of situations.
If I have my 50mm f/1.4 right next to it and wait to do some portrait, I'd use it for sure, but as a take it and leave the house lens, it's a damn good one.
Yeah it's not a run and gun set up. For video for my job I'm always using a tripod any way so the IBIS thing just stopped being a thing that factored into my decisions. The 90F2 on a tripod is great for video for example, but that's not a run and gun set up. If you have to run and gun and you're on Fuji the X-H1 is your primary camera
My take it and leave the house/office lens switches, it's usually either my 23 1.4 or the 90F2, really depends on what look I'm going for. To be honest the 16-55 isn't even my most use lens because I'm not running around these days with a zoom that much, though for work, that shit's great for events and video (on a tripod). Pretty much helping my office shoot a scholarship video cemented my camera and lens purchases. I pretty much just hyprid shot and when I wanted to do still I just took it off the tripod and did stills, minus quickly setting up the dials for stills it's a pretty easy transition.
Ok two days ago I was happy with my smartphone but now I want the Sony a6300 w/ 18-135mm lens https://smile.amazon.com/Sony-Mirro...TF8&qid=1539785557&sr=1-3&keywords=A6300&th=1
I'm a mess
I'm a mess
Do research on their crop sensor lens line up, most of the good stuff is Sigma. I'm hoping on mirrorless the AF is more accurate for the Sigma stuff. Also we tried to tell you how limited the phone camera is.Ok two days ago I was happy with my smartphone but now I want the Sony a6300 w/ 18-135mm lens https://smile.amazon.com/Sony-Mirro...TF8&qid=1539785557&sr=1-3&keywords=A6300&th=1
I'm a mess
Thanks. In these pictures I was using AI Focus. It's supposed to be like one shot, but also switches to Servo automatically once it picks up a moving subject. Should have been using Servo though, since it takes too long to switch over.
I don't trust auto anything on my cameras. I'm finish with auto iso if I need it, but that's about it.