Hey, thanks for the inspiration. Was wondering on how i should edit this pic
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Hey, thanks for the inspiration. Was wondering on how i should edit this pic
Vintage Zeiss 50mm 1.4 that I borrowed from my brother:
DSCF8431_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8434_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8476_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8431_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8434_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8476_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
Continuing adventures with the Zeiss 50mm 1.4:
DSCF8533_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8567_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8588 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8615_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8533_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8567_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8588 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8615_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8687_1
XT031922 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
XT031925 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
XT031950 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
XT031855 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
XT031910 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
XT031880 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
Just trying out my new 35 lens at very close distance. I liked it a lot! Used a LED in one site and the cell phone lantern from the other site.
2A1A7788 by Renato Custódio Pereira, no Flickr
2A1A7799 by Renato Custódio Pereira, no Flickr
2A1A7788 by Renato Custódio Pereira, no Flickr
2A1A7799 by Renato Custódio Pereira, no Flickr
P1010098
P1010094
P1010034
P1010014
P1010142
AR202995 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
AR202978 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
AR202979 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
AR203062 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
AR203025 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
AR203024 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
AR203074 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
Got some film developed.
Flower Portrait by Tyler Jacobs, on Flickr
Pillar Portrait by Tyler Jacobs, on Flickr
Port Huron BW by Tyler Jacobs, on Flickr
Chicago Portra by Tyler Jacobs, on Flickr
More at my flickr account!
Flower Portrait by Tyler Jacobs, on Flickr
Pillar Portrait by Tyler Jacobs, on Flickr
Port Huron BW by Tyler Jacobs, on Flickr
Chicago Portra by Tyler Jacobs, on Flickr
More at my flickr account!
You only have 565 pics in your Flickr? God damn I must over shoot. I left in the pics I liked.Got some film developed.
Flower Portrait by Tyler Jacobs, on Flickr
Port Huron BW by Tyler Jacobs, on Flickr
Chicago Portra by Tyler Jacobs, on Flickr
More at my flickr account!
I upload sparingly to Flickr. If I want to share it on Instagram, I'll upload it to Flickr. It's my preferred method of moving edited photos from my PC to my phone.
That's exactly what I do, though I guess I use it a bit as a dumping ground.
DSCF8856_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8886_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8913_1_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8928 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF8959_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
Some phone videos again. I also have some photos but gotta edit them first
Niagara by Carl Sim, on Flickr
Flight Over Water by Carl Sim, on Flickr
Niagara Falls Fireworks by Carl Sim, on Flickr
Niagara by Carl Sim, on Flickr
Flight Over Water by Carl Sim, on Flickr
Niagara Falls Fireworks by Carl Sim, on Flickr
This is beautiful, well done.
Never tried selective colour before. I initially edited this to be all monochrome but then I decided to give selective a go - it was one or the other as the background is a distractingly fake green. I know some don't like selective colour but i think it works alright on this one... not happy with the crop so I might remove some of that distance on the right, and I can see a spot or two that needs more work but Lightroom is being a pill at the moment so I am done for the day.
Any critique would be very welcome as always.
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I wouldn't lose any space at the right, if anything I would add some at the bottom so the tail isn't cut off. Other than that I like the colour separation. Would you mind explaining how you did that in Lightroom/how long it took you)?
I don't think I have anything left on the bottom sadly, but thanks for letting me know what you think about the crop.
As it turns out, it's a very simple process, I spent maybe half an hour to an hour on it. There are apparently different ways of doing it, but I followed a guide on YouTube that said to go to the HSL window, select saturation and turn down all the colours but for the object you wish to keep in colour. Then it's a matter of using the brush tool with saturation all the way down to get to all the areas that still have colour. There was a large green plasticky background thing in my image so there was a lot of green to get rid of. The only real time-consuming work was in using smaller brushes to get more of the green out around the chameleon.
Just look up a guide on YouTube and follow along, it's extremely simple. This is the one I watched earlier and I had no problems at all in doing it.
First of all, thanks :)This is beautiful, well done.
Never tried selective colour before. I initially edited this to be all monochrome but then I decided to give selective a go - it was one or the other as the background is a distractingly fake green. I know some don't like selective colour but i think it works alright on this one... not happy with the crop so I might remove some of that distance on the right, and I can see a spot or two that needs more work but Lightroom is being a pill at the moment so I am done for the day.
Any critique would be very welcome as always.
I'm perfectly OK with selective coloring. I do it myself to tone down distracting fliers/posters in the background or something, specifically if I can do it in one step with a slider. Or I turn portraits into B/W. I will keep only the reds in, etc. If it involves layering and all that complex stuff, that's just not my thing and that goes beyond photography for me, that could be more photographic design. I think you're fine here. I would not crop it tighter, as you'd lose breathing room...but that's just me though. The lizard is staring off into the distance (at least that's what we think), and that's fine. You could tone down the highlights but otherwise I think it's good.
I got the Sigma 30mm 1.4f lens for my Sony a6500 and I love it. Went on a trip to Calgary/Banff/Kanaskas and used it quite a bit.
I think I was needlessly worrying about the crop because the chameleon is twisted and it looks awkward as a result, but you're right, there's no need to touch it. Good advice on the highlights, you're absolutely right. Thanks!
A friend and I bought that recently for our Nikons (3300 and 5600) mostly for astrophotography, as we got a good deal on it. It's not the most suitable, being not particularly wide, but we still expect to get good results out of it. I've given it a very quick go with snaps of the family and I actually think the 18-55mm kit lens gets better results for your every day snapping of people. Really excited to try some astrophotography though, when we get a chance to head down to a dark sky area.
I've been considering moving up to a full-frame camera. I've got some money to burn on the hobby and I'm getting excited to see what the Sony a7s iii turns out like. I've already invested into a few lenses into my a6500. Is going up to full-frame going to give me quality you just can't get on a crop sensor?
I'm using it as my "Nifty Fifty" prime lens, since it is equivalent to 45mm on a full frame. It's my first lens that has a massive aperture and it has made getting fast shots really easy.
What is your budget also what do you have on the A6500? I honestly just lump crop sensor Sony as a waste of money depending on what you're doing. The A7SIII whenever that comes out will be probably what the A7RIII originally came out for so it'll be a $3000 plus camera. There are supposed to be some announcements on the 17th and if it's the A7SIII and it's not what you need IE you don't care about the video features then get the A7RIII or the A7III, if you want to save some cash get the A7RII, I have that, it's still more camera than what a lot of people need. Regarding the benefits the high iso on the Sony cameras is pretty good
I could talk myself into dropping $3k. It's not something I'd immediately buy. I'd also sell my 6500 + lenses to offset the cost.
On the a6500, I have the 16-50 kit lens, 55-210 telephoto, and the Sigma 30mm 1.4 prime lens. I really do like this camera. I got it because the compact size is pretty important to me. I am more encouraged to take my camera with me on those trips where I feel I may not even use it. I was actually tempted to swap out my lenses on my a6500 and get the SELP18-200 lens. But it's $1200 and I'm considering if I should invest in full-frame before investing in expensive glass.
The only lens from that set that I'd even say is worth anything is the Sigma and you can't even put that on what full frame Sony you'd get, I really don't even like all in one zooms so I'd even be against the 18-200. If you want small but still good get a Fuji or keep the A6500, drop the kit lenses and see if you can find an affordable A7 or just trade all of it and get something and the 24-105F4. I just really can't go to bat for crop sensor Sony for my personal needs since the glass doesn't exist on that system.
Well I'm not doing this for professional work or anything. I've just been getting into the hobby. I am trying to learn more. I essentially made my current set as something to dive into. That's why I really wanted the a6500 because its size really helps motivate me early on to use it more often. I've been transitioning to using the camera more and more manual over time. I plan to stick with the a6500 for a while. My thinking is that I should switch to a full frame before it loses too much value though.
Why do you want to switch to full frame? I go back and forth depending on my moods and what I'll be shooting. If you're not doing portrait work or low light event work you might not even benefit from it. At the very least you get access to a lot more lens choices.
Well the choice is to either invest into this camera for more high quality lenses or wait to invest in lenses on a full frame. From what I've been reading and watching, full frame sensors allow for better quality, especially in low-light.
And honestly, I'm open to it because I'm willing to burn money on it. I was thinking of renting a full frame camera to see if I like it a lot more too when I'm considering switching.
I like the A7 bodies a lot more than the A6xxx bodies since that body was one of the reasons why I bought an X-T2 over whatever A6xxx camera was out two years ago. Fuji stomps the Sony A6xxx series when you look at lens ecosystem. You get a much better image in low light on full frame, I don't even think any of the A6xxx cameras is as good as my Nikon D4 from 2012. If you're going to go into full frame research the lenses, costs and what you'd actually need. I love my A7RII, minus the buffer, FPS and the occasional scatter shot AF, but it really did take over as one of my main event cameras. But yeah give one a rent with a good lens and that should answer your questions.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2gwy1fT]
Balance Rock Arches NP by https://www.flickr.com/photos/147004771[/url.
This is a 15 second exposure of Balance Rock in Arches National Park. It was shot with a Fuji X-T3 with a Rokinon 12mm lens at f2.8 at an ISO of 3200.
Balance Rock Arches NP by https://www.flickr.com/photos/147004771[/url.This is a 15 second exposure of Balance Rock in Arches National Park. It was shot with a Fuji X-T3 with a Rokinon 12mm lens at f2.8 at an ISO of 3200.
IMG_3415
I shot some portraits today testing my EOS R out for the first time. It was a backlit scenario and I really struggled with focus issues.
2A1A7952-Editar by Renato Custódio Pereira, no Flickr
2A1A7952-Editar by Renato Custódio Pereira, no Flickr
The AF is why that thing is not a sports or events camera. If it's worse than the A7RII in that area then yikes.I shot some portraits today testing my EOS R out for the first time. It was a backlit scenario and I really struggled with focus issues.
I don't think it will have many problems in events. The problems I had was just when the sun was right there behind the model. In most other cases the focus was accurate and fast.
By the way, I was also trying out putting the speedlite off-camera on an umbrella.
This one was with natural light only:
2A1A7913-Editar by Renato Custódio Pereira, no FlickrFor these two I used the speedlite and went for some more dramatic:
2A1A7921-Editar by Renato Custódio Pereira, no Flickr
2A1A7918-Editar by Renato Custódio Pereira, no Flickr
The harsh backlighting was completely washing her skin tone out. Regarding the umbrella usage it's not bad at all for a first try. Just need her I guess facing the sun more or to use the sun as either a key our fill light to help fill in her other side better. Worst comes to worst double up on the lighting and use the sun as a hair light and you should be good to go.I don't think it will have many problems in events. The problems I had was just when the sun was right there behind the model. In most other cases the focus was accurate and fast.
By the way, I was also trying out putting the speedlite off-camera on an umbrella.
This one was with natural light only:
For these two I used the speedlite and went for some more dramatic:
Yeah, I've read a lot of articles and watched a lot of youtube videos about this, but when I was there I forgot everything and I didn't pay attention about the position of the sun related to the model and the umbrella lol. What I wanted before the shoot was indeed the sun as a hair light. Either way I really liked it and had a nice wow factor when looking at the back of the camera there. I'm looking forward to trying it again soon and fixing my mistakes.
The more you do it the better you'll get at it. You can watch all the vids you want, but none of it seems to stick till you put it to practice yourself.
After some research, a lot of people say that lens struggles to focus in backlit scenes, so there it is.
A lot of lenses I think seem too, or at least what I have. At that point I just set the camera to AF-S and wait till the camera beeps.
Hello, I just bought a mzuiko 7-14mm because I'm traveling to europe soon. I want to buy a filter but can't decide between a cpl or a ND 10 stop filter. I've never used a ND filter so I'm curious to try it out. It is worth a try?. Since the filters for this lens are very expensive, and I still have to buy the adapter. What do you people suggest? Should I get something else?. Thank you!
A Few con pictures.
Supercon 2019 by samsh!t, on Flickr
Supercon 2019 by samsh!t, on Flickr
Supercon 2019 by samsh!t, on Flickr
Supercon 2019 by samsh!t, on Flickr
Supercon 2019 by samsh!t, on Flickr
Supercon 2019 by samsh!t, on Flickr
I need to go to a con one day.A Few con pictures.
ND filters are good for daytime long exposures, or wide open portraits. Since that's a wide angle lens, it won't make sense for the portrait scenario. Do you see yourself taking daytime long exposures with that lens in Europe? For reference here are a few of my daytime long exposures:
DSCF7470_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF7427_2 by TIKI, on Flickr
DSCF5106_1 by TIKI, on Flickr
Those are some really nice photos!. I'm only going to two cities (still deciding) for two weeks so I think I'll have time to take this kind of pictures.
I do enjoy taking long exposure photos in night time. For some reason ND filters flew over my head and I learned about them until recently.
About a specific reason I think I just enjoy using my gear more than editing photos in my PC and I want to experiment with something new. I still do some editing in my pc but I rather spend my time doing something else. I'll look for some used filters on ebay your photos really make me want to try them out!. Thank you for yor reply!.
XT032162 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
XT032133 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
XT032064 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
XT032076 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
XT032149 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
XT032019 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
XT032047 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
XT032180 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr