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Plastic Scale Modelling |OT| Gunpla and Everything Else

Nov 3, 2017
1,781
Hey guys, any opinions on using coloured pencils for shading? I’m building some Figure Rise Dragon Ball kits and I won’t be able to weather the clothing folds with the paints I generally use. Thinking of trying some shading with coloured pencils instead, but I’m not sure how well they’ll hold to the model
 
Dec 6, 2017
415
Hey guys, any opinions on using coloured pencils for shading? I’m building some Figure Rise Dragon Ball kits and I won’t be able to weather the clothing folds with the paints I generally use. Thinking of trying some shading with coloured pencils instead, but I’m not sure how well they’ll hold to the model
I think if you top coat afterwards it's should be fine.
 
OP
OP
Eridani
Oct 25, 2017
596
Can anyone recommend a brush size for weathering? The brush I have is a little too big, what do most people use, brush size number? If that's a thing lol.
I'm not really an expert in weathering, but for most detail work, sizes like 000 (aka 3/0), 5/0, or even 20/0 are commonly used (with more zeroes indicating a smaller size). The smallest I have is a 3/0 and I often feel like that's too big so I'd recommend something smaller. I can't really think of a situation where a brush would be too small for painting/weathering details.
Hey guys, any opinions on using coloured pencils for shading? I’m building some Figure Rise Dragon Ball kits and I won’t be able to weather the clothing folds with the paints I generally use. Thinking of trying some shading with coloured pencils instead, but I’m not sure how well they’ll hold to the model
The first thing that comes to mind is this video that shows off one way of shading with pencils (though admittedly on something completely different):

So it looks possible, but getting an effect that isn't way too strong might be problematic.
 
Dec 6, 2017
415
I'm not really an expert in weathering, but for most detail work, sizes like 000 (aka 3/0), 5/0, or even 20/0 are commonly used (with more zeroes indicating a smaller size). The smallest I have is a 3/0 and I often feel like that's too big so I'd recommend something smaller. I can't really think of a situation where a brush would be too small for painting/weathering details.

The first thing that comes to mind is this video that shows off one way of shading with pencils (though admittedly on something completely different):

So it looks possible, but getting an effect that isn't way too strong might be problematic.
Thanks for the info.

Regarding shading, I've seen videos of people using the Tamiya Weathering kits, I think it's kit B with the soot color, to add contrast/shading. I use those kits for weathering and it's easy enough to blend, lighten, even remove if you're not happy with the intensity.

Picked this up on my lunch break, and the baby version to work on with my kid.


Will try to resist damaging this kit, maybe take a shot at some shading.
 
Feb 23, 2018
86
How many of you guys paint your gunpla? I tried one time with a HGUC zaku 2. I never finished. Didn't use air brush.
I dont have an airbrush, but I always hand paint my kits when I have the time.
I mostly do custom builds so painting is a necessity to cover up all the pla plate, putty, and different colored parts.
 
Oct 25, 2017
1,404
I have one build finished and waiting for pictures and another one nearly finished, but my workspace is in a cold part of the house and this weather has made it really hard to find motivation.

How many of you guys paint your gunpla? I tried one time with a HGUC zaku 2. I never finished. Didn't use air brush.
I do at least a little bit of detail painting on most of my builds now, but if I can work out a way to do the proper ventilation, I'd like to get an airbrush. If nothing else, it would at least allow me to topcoat during the cold and/or humid parts of the year.
 

xEik

Member
Nov 17, 2017
2,590
The Catalan Republic
HGBF MS-09R-35 Dom R35
Not much to comment on this. There's almost too much blue only broken by the occasional white and grey but it's a Ramba Ral (or rather Mr. Ral) unit so what are you gonna do?
For an HG, the eye mechanism is exceptionally nice. Instead of your typical round pink sticker on a black surface that imposes a fixed position, you get a movable piece (where you place the sticker) behind a clear part so you can reposition it whenever you want.
Last, I've said it before but I'm a strong proponent of trimming the little flags in the HG antennae and this kit illustrates it nicely. Without the flags the antenna looks sharp and pointy (as it should).







 
OP
OP
Eridani
Oct 25, 2017
596
After some light chipping and a lot of decals, I feel like I'm almost done now. All that's left is some weathering, some decals on the guns and detail painting for the shiny parts. I'm happy with how this is turning out:

The paint-job has turned out better than my previous builds, with shading that's actually visible even in low light. It's still quite sloppy in a lot of places, but that only really shows in close-up photos like these.
 
Oct 26, 2017
198
USA
trying to get into gunpla more seriously and i’m having a major problem with stress marks. don’t know if my knife isn’t sharp enough or it’s the blade, but most of the time i can’t cut the plastic without using the nippers
 
Oct 26, 2017
2,270
After some light chipping and a lot of decals, I feel like I'm almost done now. All that's left is some weathering, some decals on the guns and detail painting for the shiny parts. I'm happy with how this is turning out:

The paint-job has turned out better than my previous builds, with shading that's actually visible even in low light. It's still quite sloppy in a lot of places, but that only really shows in close-up photos like these.
That's some really solid work.

trying to get into gunpla more seriously and i’m having a major problem with stress marks. don’t know if my knife isn’t sharp enough or it’s the blade, but most of the time i can’t cut the plastic without using the nippers
What nippers are you using? Are you removing the part with the sprues from the runner before removing the sprues?
 
Oct 25, 2017
1,931
After some light chipping and a lot of decals, I feel like I'm almost done now. All that's left is some weathering, some decals on the guns and detail painting for the shiny parts. I'm happy with how this is turning out:

The paint-job has turned out better than my previous builds, with shading that's actually visible even in low light. It's still quite sloppy in a lot of places, but that only really shows in close-up photos like these.
Holy shit, that looks awesome!
 

xEik

Member
Nov 17, 2017
2,590
The Catalan Republic
Typically use nippers twice. First, to cut from the runner cutting away from the piece to avoid stress marks. Second, close to the part to remove that little extra plastic.
To finish you can then use a hobby knife or sandpaper.
You are at step one in that photo. Don't skip step two trying to use a hobby knife in that state.
 

xEik

Member
Nov 17, 2017
2,590
The Catalan Republic
Probably a matter of opinion but for step two I tend to leave less than half a millimetre. Just enough that using a hobby knife works on it comfortably. I'm certainly not using the nippers to try to cut absolutely as close as possible to the surface since this is likely to leave stress marks.
The key is that the hobby knife works better but only as long as it is shaving thin layers of plastic. Using a hobby knife on a big nub risks breaking it instead of shaving it.
 
Oct 25, 2017
2,494
Can you 3D print model kits?

I googled it and while I get some results, most of the stuff I see is not very high quality. They look kind of waxy. Maybe I'm not searching properly.
 
Feb 23, 2018
86
Can you 3D print model kits?

I googled it and while I get some results, most of the stuff I see is not very high quality. They look kind of waxy. Maybe I'm not searching properly.
You can 3d print parts for gunpla, but they will need a lot of work to smooth out and finish it if you are using a normal 3D printer. If you are using a UV resin printer, they come out much cleaner. However, it is an entirely different skill set when working with resin.

Here is an example conversion kit for MG Tallgeese. (uses a commercial printer)
https://www.shapeways.com/product/NDUPNRCAS/head-shoulders-and-knees-2-0?optionId=64110172
 

xEik

Member
Nov 17, 2017
2,590
The Catalan Republic
If anything, I found it weird that the RG Full Armor Unicorn wasn't P-Bandai as it has been happening with other units like Strike Rouge or Astray Blue Frame that have regular Master Grades but don't seem to justify a regular release in RG form.

The schadenfreude provided by Riddhe haters when Bandai prioritizes his Banshee for the PG and RG to Marida's Banshee (that was prioritized for the MG) is an entirely different matter.
 
Oct 25, 2017
3,515
I dig it, even I don't like the frame Arm girls.
I am pretty indifferent towards Frame Arms Girls, but I dig Megami Devices. Much interesting designs overall.

This is from the MSG line though, so it is not necessary to use on FAG. It is compatible with Hexa Gears, usual Frame Arms and other stuff.
 
Oct 26, 2017
2,270
This caught my eye.



They're milking the hell out of that Mazikaiser mold.

I am pretty indifferent towards Frame Arms Girls, but I dig Megami Devices. Much interesting designs overall.

This is from the MSG line though, so it is not necessary to use on FAG. It is compatible with Hexa Gears, usual Frame Arms and other stuff.
Nice.