Plastic Scale Modelling |OT| Gunpla and Everything Else

EYEL1NER

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,214
I've hit a bit of a brick wall with my RG 00 build. The portions of my left leg with gaps that I spoke of in a recent post on the last page are bumming me out and making me not want to progress without fixing it or finding a way to take care of it. One of the sections could probably be fixed with putty filling in the gap between pieces but another one is not fitting on the frame and connecting to another piece correctly and has a very bad gap (and it not fully fitting on may be what is causing the gap in the other piece).

Here's a pic of where I am currently stuck at:

I've given him a bit more chest armor and some arm pieces since my last pics.

And a side-view:


On the left leg in the front view, under the blue knee piece, are two white pieceswhich make up the calf armor that fits over the sides. They are D14 and D15. Under those serving as the shin armor is A5, the white piece that fits over the front and connects to the off-white piece (don't know the part number of that) that runs up the back of the lower leg.

That gap on A5 in the shin-area is huge and seriously annoying me. I've tried forcing it on further and it won't budge, certainly not any amount that would allow me to glue it to the piece it connects to. I took it off and there are no nubs that are getting in the way, nor are there any bent connects that are causing it to not mate up with that back piece. On the previous page I posted pics of the legs before adding armor and it is noticeable on the leg frame that there is a curved piece running up the front of the frame and it is meant to slide a bit as the leg moves. It almost seems like that piece is somehow in the way, but I can't get it in any position that makes fitting A5 on any easier. As I said before, I think it not being fully on is what is causing the gap between D14 and D15 above it (and those pieces were a big pain in the ass to get on there; they don't want to close up any more than that either).

I removed the ankle skirt and foot which allows me to remove A5, D14, D15, and that off-white back-of-the-leg piece that A5 snaps into. I checked them for damage or anything else that could be causing bad fitment or alignment but saw nothing. They align perfectly when not on the frame; A5 completely mates with that rear piece. But once I get that rear-piece on, ensuring that it is all the way on the frame as well, then A5 doesn't want to snap on.

Here are closeups from the manual that show how they all attach to the frame:




And here is the pic I mentioned from the last page of the leg armor. It feels like that curved piece going up the front, almost serving as a shin-bone that slides up-and-down a bit, is getting in the way:


So right now I'm at a bit of a loss for what my next course of action. The leg as it is looks ugly with A5 sticking out so far and it's making me not want to touch the kit until I can fix it. I posted in the Bi-Weekly Q&A Thread on r/gunpla yesterday morning, a lengthy but detailed accounting of the trouble I am having with this A5 piece (here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/bymfcx/help_me_biweekly_qa_thread_ask_your_questions_here/er1m92q/), but it got ignored.
 
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Eridani

Eridani

Member
Oct 25, 2017
666
I've hit a bit of a brick wall with my RG 00 build. The portions of my left leg with gaps that I spoke of in a recent post on the last page are bumming me out and making me not want to progress without fixing it or finding a way to take care of it. One of the sections could probably be fixed with putty filling in the gap between pieces but another one is not fitting on the frame and connecting to another piece correctly and has a very bad gap (and it not fully fitting on may be what is causing the gap in the other piece).

Here's a pic of where I am currently stuck at:

I've given him a bit more chest armor and some arm pieces since my last pics.

And a side-view:


On the left leg in the front view, under the blue knee piece, are two white pieceswhich make up the calf armor that fits over the sides. They are D14 and D15. Under those serving as the shin armor is A5, the white piece that fits over the front and connects to the off-white piece (don't know the part number of that) that runs up the back of the lower leg.

That gap on A5 in the shin-area is huge and seriously annoying me. I've tried forcing it on further and it won't budge, certainly not any amount that would allow me to glue it to the piece it connects to. I took it off and there are no nubs that are getting in the way, nor are there any bent connects that are causing it to not mate up with that back piece. On the previous page I posted pics of the legs before adding armor and it is noticeable on the leg frame that there is a curved piece running up the front of the frame and it is meant to slide a bit as the leg moves. It almost seems like that piece is somehow in the way, but I can't get it in any position that makes fitting A5 on any easier. As I said before, I think it not being fully on is what is causing the gap between D14 and D15 above it (and those pieces were a big pain in the ass to get on there; they don't want to close up any more than that either).

I removed the ankle skirt and foot which allows me to remove A5, D14, D15, and that off-white back-of-the-leg piece that A5 snaps into. I checked them for damage or anything else that could be causing bad fitment or alignment but saw nothing. They align perfectly when not on the frame; A5 completely mates with that rear piece. But once I get that rear-piece on, ensuring that it is all the way on the frame as well, then A5 doesn't want to snap on.

Here are closeups from the manual that show how they all attach to the frame:




And here is the pic I mentioned from the last page of the leg armor. It feels like that curved piece going up the front, almost serving as a shin-bone that slides up-and-down a bit, is getting in the way:


So right now I'm at a bit of a loss for what my next course of action. The leg as it is looks ugly with A5 sticking out so far and it's making me not want to touch the kit until I can fix it. I posted in the Bi-Weekly Q&A Thread on r/gunpla yesterday morning, a lengthy but detailed accounting of the trouble I am having with this A5 piece (here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/bymfcx/help_me_biweekly_qa_thread_ask_your_questions_here/er1m92q/), but it got ignored.
I haven't built the kit myself so I sadly can't really help much. looking at the manual and various build videos, there doesn't seem to be anything special required to get those parts to fit and I can't really see that you'd be doing anything wrong from the pictures. RG pieces can be quite fiddly at times but it sounds like you've tried to attach them in multiple ways and none of them worked, so some extra plastic getting in the way would also be my first thought for what the problem is.

Have you tried taking off the pieces from the other leg (that seem to fit fine) and comparing them with the pieces that don't fit (or maybe swapping them around). Assuming they are the same pieces, of course. That might help you find where the problem is, though I really can't say for sure. Hopefully you manage to get it fixed.
 

The Sum of Zero

The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
2,079
AL, USA
That sounds like extra plastic somewhere, or either C42 or A5 aren't lined up correctly or properly slotted into the leg. I've got the RG Qan[T] and A5 is flush against C42 on both legs.

Make sure there's no extra plastic anywhere on the parts or on the leg frame, then check how your parts are attaching to the leg compared to the manual. I know that's probably simple advice but all I can really say is to just fiddle with it.


Off topic, me and my mad lad self just ordered this puppy. Cause it's my birthday and I can fly to Iscander if I want to:
 

arit

Member
Oct 29, 2017
43
That sounds like extra plastic somewhere, or either C42 or A5 aren't lined up correctly or properly slotted into the leg. I've got the RG Qan[T] and A5 is flush against C42 on both legs.

Make sure there's no extra plastic anywhere on the parts or on the leg frame, then check how your parts are attaching to the leg compared to the manual. I know that's probably simple advice but all I can really say is to just fiddle with it.


Off topic, me and my mad lad self just ordered this puppy. Cause it's my birthday and I can fly to Iscander if I want to:
1/500 scale should be something like... 80cm in length (extrapolating from my 1/1000 kit).
I had it preordered/backordered once in an attempt to complete the family, but canceled the order, now I am tempted again.
At this scale I guess it is a lot less prone to having 1mm parts than at 1/1000, which are lost once gravity shifts during assembly.
 

EYEL1NER

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,214
The most probable cause is some extra plastic in one of the pegs of the frame or in one of the holes of the armor.
I haven't built the kit myself so I sadly can't really help much. looking at the manual and various build videos, there doesn't seem to be anything special required to get those parts to fit and I can't really see that you'd be doing anything wrong from the pictures. RG pieces can be quite fiddly at times but it sounds like you've tried to attach them in multiple ways and none of them worked, so some extra plastic getting in the way would also be my first thought for what the problem is.

Have you tried taking off the pieces from the other leg (that seem to fit fine) and comparing them with the pieces that don't fit (or maybe swapping them around). Assuming they are the same pieces, of course. That might help you find where the problem is, though I really can't say for sure. Hopefully you manage to get it fixed.
That sounds like extra plastic somewhere, or either C42 or A5 aren't lined up correctly or properly slotted into the leg. I've got the RG Qan[T] and A5 is flush against C42 on both legs.

Make sure there's no extra plastic anywhere on the parts or on the leg frame, then check how your parts are attaching to the leg compared to the manual. I know that's probably simple advice but all I can really say is to just fiddle with it.
Thanks, all. I'll keep looking at the pieces. They meet up correctly when not on the frame, so I don't think there is any excess plastic but I could be missing something major, so I'll reinspect them. I will probably go ahead and take off the pieces from the other "good" leg and look at those, and maybe swap them to see how those look. I'll keep plugging away and hopefully have it figured out and fixed at some point. Worst comes to worst, I'll add some glue to the gap and then get a vice or clamp to hold the pieces together, but I hope it won't come to that. I am going to devote a lot of time to it this week though because I need to finish it (and want to finish it as well; I'm enjoying assembling it and don't want it to sound like I'm treating it like a chore). My Wing Zero Seraphim Feather base showed up and it is gorgeous, so I really want to work on suit and base soon. And then after I go on vacation for two weeks next month, assuming I'm done with all of what I've got and haven't ordered anything new, I want to lock in an order for the RG Sazabi and the upcoming RG Nu Gundam.
 

EYEL1NER

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,214
Update time. So I made some progress! But also something bad happened.

I took my toolkit and the model to work last night with the intention of trying to figure out what was wrong. I started by taking A5 and the back-of-the-leg piece (and I can't believe I still haven't looked up that part number; I was even working on the suit today and had the manual opened! The Sum of Zero above called it C42 though and I've got no reason to doubt that he knows his stuff, so I'll assume he's correct and I'll begin calling it that from now on) off and test-fitting them together again. I put them back on the frame and tried pushing down in various spots to see how close I could get them to mate up if I did want to glue them together. And then I showed it to my coworker who took some looks at it. I removed the pieces again and test-fit them together while off the frame again and showed him that they matched up perfectly while not on the frame.

It was then that I made a mistake.
My toolkit came with a yellow piece of plastic with a wedge on it for splitting pieces back up along the seam, and I've used it a lot. I used it to get D14 and D15 off early this morning even. But when I was test-fitting A5 and C42 together, I was just pulling them apart by hand. I must have put too much stress on A5 too many times because A5 snapped in half. I was pretty shocked and dismayed when it happened. Luckily the broken pieces fit back together really well and should glue together. When pressed together the line they broke along is barely noticeable.

I set those pieces aside, made a mental note to check into getting a replacement piece from Bluefin later when I got home, and began looking at C42. I then noticed something I never paid much attention to before. There is a circle at the top of C42 that snaps around a peg on the back of the frame-leg, visible in the pic of the instructions I posted further up the page. When placing C42 on the back of the leg, it didn't look like it was on there. So I applied some pressure and it snapped into place. I thought 'no way that was the problem' and then added D14, D15, and the two halves of A5 on. Sure enough, they fit on perfectly with no gap anymore. So that was the problem the whole time. I may take the other leg's pieces off because D14 and D15 were really hard to put on over on the right leg, and while there is no huge gap in any of those pieces, I'm wondering if I may not have snapped C42 on fully on that side either.

Here's a pic from a bit ago of how A5 broke:



And here's one (not a very good one, since my iPad camera isn't that great) of the barely noticeable line it broke along. You pretty much need to zoom really close in to barely see it, and the poor image quality doesn't help, but it is there:



So right now A5 is just being held together by the pegs on C42 going into A5's side holes. Does anyone have any suggestions for how I should fix the piece? I may see if Bluefin can hook me up with an replacement part but for now I'm fine with fixing this piece (because I believe Bluefin takes months to send out replacements anyway, and I don't want to wait that long to finish it). I ordered some Tamiya cement, the bottle with the orange/yellow cap, and it will be here in two days. Is that what I want or should I go with the green-capped Tamiya Extra-Thin? Or is extra thin used more for filling panel gaps rather than repairs? Any recommendations that I should just use plain old super glue? It looks like from some quick research that Tamiya cement is what I need to use, holding it together for a minute and then not touching it for 24 hours, but maybe someone has had better experience with something else?


Here's some pics I took of some work I just did this morning when I got home from work. I got the arm and shoulder armor on. Next step in a few days will be the head. I'm glad I'm taking so many pics though. Looking at them later helps me identify areas that need a little more work with a file or hobby knife, pieces that need a Gundam marker to cover up some whitening, or other issues. Just a bit ago while laying in bed looking at the pics before uploading them to imgur to link to here, I noticed on the rear-view image that the yellow piece on the left shoulder near the neck was not fully-snapped on and attached. So I ran back into the kitchen and fixed it real quick. Anyway, I should have some new pics in a few days of the head, maybe on Thursday morning after I get home from work, since I get that Tamiya cement in the mail on Wednesday.









And in this one you can see that yellow piece on the shoulder that wasn't fully-attached. I fixed it already though.



EDIT: In addition to my cement question, I have another quick one: Are my pics too big? I can't seem to figure out how to link pics correctly from imgur easily, so I go through a few steps to get linked pics into my posts since a lot of the ways to do it turn up errors for me or don't show any picture. I'm on mobile too and they look a little bit large to me but not way big. I can start quoting them in my own posts if you guys want though so that way they at least are partially hidden unless someone selects the quote to view the whole thing.
 
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Neo0mj

Member
Oct 26, 2017
2,610
EDIT: In addition to my cement question, I have another quick one: Are my pics too big? I can't seem to figure out how to link pics correctly from imgur easily, so I go through a few steps to get linked pics into my posts since a lot of the ways to do it turn up errors for me or don't show any picture. I'm on mobile too and they look a little bit large to me but not way big. I can start quoting them in my own posts if you guys want though so that way they at least are partially hidden unless someone selects the quote to view the whole thing.
Plastic cement is what you want, do not use super glue. What kind depends on how it's broken. I have a cement pen that's meant to mostly be used for connecting seam lines and then sanding them and another that comes in a small tube for parts that actually broke. I don't think the extra thin is what you're looking for.

And you can put your pictures inside quotes to better hide them. Not sure how to minimize size with imgur.
 
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Eridani

Eridani

Member
Oct 25, 2017
666
So right now A5 is just being held together by the pegs on C42 going into A5's side holes. Does anyone have any suggestions for how I should fix the piece? I may see if Bluefin can hook me up with an replacement part but for now I'm fine with fixing this piece (because I believe Bluefin takes months to send out replacements anyway, and I don't want to wait that long to finish it). I ordered some Tamiya cement, the bottle with the orange/yellow cap, and it will be here in two days. Is that what I want or should I go with the green-capped Tamiya Extra-Thin? Or is extra thin used more for filling panel gaps rather than repairs? Any recommendations that I should just use plain old super glue? It looks like from some quick research that Tamiya cement is what I need to use, holding it together for a minute and then not touching it for 24 hours, but maybe someone has had better experience with something else?
Non-thin cement should be fine. I've never used the Tamiya one specifically but I assume it works like most other brands. People mostly prefer extra-thin since it's easier to use (it's thin enough that you can just apply it over something you want glued and it will seep into the crack and do its thing). With the non-thin one, you'll want to apply it on the sides of the two split pieces before joining them together. One thing to be aware of is that plastic cement works by melting the plastic, which means that if you accidentally apply too much or get it somewhere you don't want it you'll end up with melted plastic in that spot. I'd recommend being pretty conservative when applying the cement as you only really need a tiny amount of it to work. Also, be careful of getting cement on your fingertips when holding the piece together because that will also lead to you melting stuff you don't want.

Also be aware that the crack probably won't completely disappear without some additional sanding with some really fine-grit sandpaper or a polishing pad/sponge. Looking at some seam-line removal video guides should let you know what to expect since that's essentially the same thing you're dealing with here (something like this, for example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t516rMvguwk, though there's probably better videos out there). Ignore any that use putty unless you're planning on painting the kit though (though if you can get white putty that might work in your case).

EDIT: In addition to my cement question, I have another quick one: Are my pics too big? I can't seem to figure out how to link pics correctly from imgur easily, so I go through a few steps to get linked pics into my posts since a lot of the ways to do it turn up errors for me or don't show any picture. I'm on mobile too and they look a little bit large to me but not way big. I can start quoting them in my own posts if you guys want though so that way they at least are partially hidden unless someone selects the quote to view the whole thing.
For imgur, you can append a letter to the end of the url (before the .jpg) to specify the size. The options are:
h - huge: http://i.imgur.com/nfPvAA8h.jpg

l - large: http://i.imgur.com/nfPvAA8l.jpg

m - medium:

t - tiny?:

And also b and s for big/small square, but those crop the image and therefore aren't much use:


I usually use either h or l when posting stuff here, though I'm personally not bothered by anyone using large pictures.
 

xEik

The Fallen
Nov 17, 2017
3,035
The Catalan Republic
I'm not bothered by big pictures but I try to limit myself to 3 or 4 per post in most cases to avoid excessive scrolling unless the text content of the post somehow justifies the extra images.
My last post with images had 5 of them, though, contradicting what I just said.
 

EYEL1NER

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,214
Excellent stuff. I'll watch some videos of gunpla part repair and seam line removal tonight at work to prep myself for Thursday. I felt like the way the extra thin works, by running into the seam lines almost like a wash when painting, was not what I wanted. So I'm glad I didn't buy that instead. I'll search for some videos though because I want to see what the before and after look like in cases where someone used too much or got it on the wrong area and melted a lot of visible plastic. I'm not too bothered by the crack being visible after the repair, since it isn't super-visible now. I may take my white Gundam pen to a section of that sprue that A5 came off of and try blending it with my finger to see if going over the crack with it would be anything worthwhile.

Neo0mj, do you know the name or brand of that cement pen you described? That sounds like it might be something nice to pick up if I ever want to start deleting my seams or come across a stubborn seam thafnwont close completely.

And I'll start adding some letters to my pics like Eridani recommended (and maybe go back and edit my previous posts with them too) so they can be a bit smaller. They have all been linked images, so if anyone did want to see a bigger picture for any reason they have the option of clicking on it to view it on imgur.

Thanks!
 

williamsan

Member
Oct 27, 2017
123
I saw a poster at my closest HobbytownUSA that advertised a gunpla competition for HG size kits. Nothing specific, no categories or anything like that...buuut I'm thinking about entering something. I saw the poster before we went inside so that kinda influenced my purchase hehe, picked up that Build Divers Altron, with the animal pauldrons. I think I can do something snazzy with paint, and possible some battle damage. I haven't tried any scarring on my kits since my very first but here is a good excuse to bang up a gunpla and try it again lol.

I like your QUANT, EYEL1NER, looking good. I loved the cockpit hatch, it has like 3 separate moving parts and I love shit like that haha. Also, out of all the kits I've made (not many) it had the most memorable ankles, the inversion and eversion motions I guess you could say are sick, you can pose it in really wide stances. Gonna go mess with mine now hehe
 

Mandos

Member
Nov 27, 2017
5,875
Hmmm I think I’m going to try sketching out my custom build later, I’m not great but I do ok with a reference. I’m not sure what I’ll use for the core other than it being a hg but I plan to use my spare Zeong with shipping damage for parts for a cool idea along with some other parts I should be getting. I will probably order something fresh for the core, I may wind up with a different direction but I am leaning Gundam or GM
 

The Sum of Zero

The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
2,079
AL, USA
Progress pic on the Yamato. Had some time on my overnight shift to work on it.



It's not a hard build, it's the panel lining that is such a huge chore. But it's worth it.

Also I recently started 2202 and got smitten by the Andromeda so I looked up to see if it had a kit. And wtf the 1/1000 Andromeda costs more than this 1/500 Yamato did. I guess due to the lights and sfx thing it comes with.
 

xEik

The Fallen
Nov 17, 2017
3,035
The Catalan Republic
Not entirely sure if this belongs here or not but I don't have to much interest in posting on the action figure thread and even though this comes out of the box mostly assembled and with details painted, there's still a few pieces like beam sabers that have to be cut from their runners.

HCM PRO GN-003 Gundam Kyrios

I only bought this because it was extremely cheap on an inventory clearance sale and the novelty of mobile suits in scale 1/200. It would definitely not have been worth it if I had paid the recommended retail price.
After transforming it into flight mode just once, the hip articulations have become loose and posing it is a chore. Therefore, it will stay forever in the last pose I put it, otherwise it falls on its face like it's nobody's business.







 

The Sum of Zero

The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
2,079
AL, USA
This big girl is finished.



Haven't done the waterslide decals yet, I'll get to those sometime in the next few weeks.

It's beautiful but this thing is almost too big (it's about 2 feet and 2 inches long). I think if I get any more Yamato kits I'll stick to the 1/1000 scale.

Well, there is one more Yamato kit that I'm definitely getting sometime in the future, that sexy Andromeda.
 
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xEik

The Fallen
Nov 17, 2017
3,035
The Catalan Republic
I never know what to make of the whole "naval spaceship" theme regarding Yamato. Should I love it because it's so anime or not take it seriously because it's too anime?
In any case, big kits always look great in person but the shelf commitment required can be problematic.
On the one hand, one wants them because they are the ones anyone's eyes inevitably gravitate to. On the other hand, the temptation to put them behind other kits because it will still be visible anyways is too great once the display area becomes crowded.
 

Cymbal Head

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,488
For my first fully painted kit, I decided to do a Leo in desert colors:



I think the results are decent, but the most important part was it helped me figure out the process and identify things to look out for next time.

The step I was least happy with was priming. I used Vallejo's standard surface primer, and I found it's not very durable at all. I'm working on a spray booth ventilation setup, so soon I'll be able to use solvent-based acrylics and lacquers if I want. For those of you who paint, what's your preferred primer?
 
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Eridani

Eridani

Member
Oct 25, 2017
666
For my first fully painted kit, I decided to do a Leo in desert colors:



I think the results are decent, but the most important part was it helped me figure out the process and identify things to look out for next time.

The step I was least happy with was priming. I used Vallejo's standard surface primer, and I found it's not very durable at all. I'm working on a spray booth ventilation setup, so soon I'll be able to use solvent-based acrylics and lacquers if I want. For those of you who paint, what's your preferred primer?
I'm also using Vallejo's primer due to a lack of a spray booth and it definitely scratches off quite easily. For an acrylic primer, Badger Stynylrez (also sold by Ammo Mig as One Shot Primer and by UMP as Ultimate Primer) is supposed to be much better, becoming super strong after setting for 24 hours. For lacquer primers I know people love Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 since it's super smooth and durable, though the smoothness also means it doesn't really hide scratches on the plastic as much as other primers do.

Good job on the model. From the picture, it looks great.
 

Cymbal Head

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,488
Thanks. Stynylrez wasn't even on my radar. Maybe I'll pick up a bottle and give it a try. Vallejo's Mecha line has been giving me good results, so I'm planning to give that primer a shot as well.
 

EnronERA

Member
Oct 25, 2017
3,054
i liked Mr Surfacer and Testor's Modelmaster as far as primers go, but i was never real picky. Tamiya's primer seems ok as well. These are all rattlecans btw.
 

Cymbal Head

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,488
Mr. Surfacer is the lacquer line I'm looking at. I guess if I ever decide to move to lacquer-based paint, I'll need to switch primers as well, so maybe I should just go for it.

Hmm.
 

Voror

Member
Oct 25, 2017
897
So been doing a lot of Gunpla building lately as my family got me a number of kits as a late birthday present (HG Moon, MG Turn A, and MG Nu Ver. Ka).

Done with the first two but been wondering if I should maybe see about upgrading my tools a bit. Namely my knife and nippers.

Been using a Tamiya Basic Tool Kit for the last 5 years. Looks like this one:


Any specific recommedations on better cutters or knives to use?

Also thinking I'll finally try panel lining on these and my older kits with those Gundam Markers since they seem to be the basic set.
 

Euler

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,222
So been doing a lot of Gunpla building lately as my family got me a number of kits as a late birthday present (HG Moon, MG Turn A, and MG Nu Ver. Ka).

Done with the first two but been wondering if I should maybe see about upgrading my tools a bit. Namely my knife and nippers.

Been using a Tamiya Basic Tool Kit for the last 5 years. Looks like this one:


Any specific recommedations on better cutters or knives to use?

Also thinking I'll finally try panel lining on these and my older kits with those Gundam Markers since they seem to be the basic set.
You can't go wrong with the God hand nippers, they are the best.

They are expensive but worth it if you are doing a lot of gunpla builds.

 

EnronERA

Member
Oct 25, 2017
3,054
You can't go wrong with the God hand nippers, they are the best.

They are expensive but worth it if you are doing a lot of gunpla builds.

I will repeat what i said earlier in this thread - When you buy the fine God Hand nippers, you do not use them to make the primary cut from the sprue. You use them to cut the remnants down flush.

God Hands also offers a very good, very affordable pair of nippers meant for regular cuts that are nowhere near as expensive as their well-known fine cutters. My local Hobbytown started carrying these (PN-125) and the staff who i am acquainted with all told me they found that they were just as good or better than the more mainstream tamiya or xuron nippers. The price for these affordable general use nippers from God Hands? 30 bucks? 20 bucks? At least 20 bucks, right? I mean, you pay upwards of 40 for their fine nippers...

Nope. 9.99. I shit you not. 10 bucks for these things. I bought a pair and used them on HG Mazinger this past weekend, they are every bit as good as my xurons.

Edit: Sorry, i don't mean for this to sound like a lecture, lol.
 
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Voror

Member
Oct 25, 2017
897
Again, I will repeat what i said earlier in this thread. When you buy the fine God Hand nippers, you do not use them to make the primary cut from the sprue. You use them to cut the remnants down flush.

God Hands also offers a very good, very affordable pair of nippers meant for regular cuts that are nowhere near as expensive as their well-known fine cutters. My local Hobbytown started carrying these (PN-125) and the staff who i am acquainted with all told me they found that they were just as good or better than the more mainstream tamiya or xuron nippers. The price for these affordable general use nippers from God Hands? 30 bucks? 20 bucks? At least 20 bucks, right? I mean, you pay upwards of 40 for their fine nippers...

Nope. 9.99. I shit you not. 10 bucks for these things. I bought a pair and used them on HG Mazinger this past weekend, they are every bit as good as my xurons.
These? :

 
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EnronERA

Member
Oct 25, 2017
3,054
These? :


Yep, those. If you've got a local hobbytown that shit is 9.99! worth 15 dollars, too. I like them more than my more expensive xurons and tamiyas.
 

Mandos

Member
Nov 27, 2017
5,875
So double good news, I just got a new job so kit money again! Definitely putting in some orders with my next paycheck(decided to wait to build my 00 mg)
The other news is my grandma’s old exactoknife kit so I can actually cut things properly(she used to do a lot of arts and crafts but she moved out of her old house and didn’t need it anymore so she let me have it)

So a little worn but full of love
 

The Sum of Zero

The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
2,079
AL, USA