I haven't bought many PGs but the Unicorn is the newest of them and it does not come with waterslides, just stickers.
Of the Ver.Ka I have, the following come with waterslides:
The PG Exia only has stickers, yes.
I'll try to hold off and wait a little bit before I start removing the ink. I found this morning that I was still cleaning the panel lines too quick and making everything too runny, sometimes removing them completely to where they need to be redone. When it gets runny I have to burn through a lot of cotton swabs too. I need to find better cotton swabs I think because they are holding and releasing way too much alcohol, even after wiping them against a paper towel to dry them a bit. I use some cheap standard cotton swabs, and then some very tiny pointed Tamiya detail swabs. Those barely hold any alcohol but it also seems like they don't remove much panel liner.Just my opinion but normally I clean panel lines after 30 seconds to a minute after applying. I use that time to cut the next piece from the runner alternating the two tasks in consecutive pieces. Usually I'll just use my fingers or an eraser because the ink hasn't dried in such a short time. Alcohol I only use if I left something to dry for too long. I feel that applying it early removes too much ink and makes everything runny.
Seams are to be avoided by any panel lining action unless you want to specifically accentuate them. Ink on spots that were cut or scratched can be solved by these methods depending on your goals:
- Cut or scratch some of the plastic. Bad if the plastic is already at the level you wanted, so a last resort solution that sometimes works and sometimes makes it worse hence the following solution
- Panel line before you do the final nub cleaning. Any dirtied plastic on the nub is removed when you clean nubs after panel lining. Not always possible but it gets nice results so it's my preferred choice even if it's a bit lengthy.
- If you paint your gunpla, simply paint over it. Depending on the situation this means redoing some work which can be exhausting. Most of the time I don't even paint my gunpla except detailing so I hardly ever use this.
Two suits I'd love to get my hands on. I think that the RG Nu is going to be my next purchase, but I need to see what the availability of the P-Bandai Fin Funnel set is like and if they are getting scarce. I may buy the RG Astray Red Frame before Nu but I need a Nu to go with this Sazabi I'm working on.
I'm not going to criticize a backlog when mine is bigger than it should be but what made me curious is that I think I only remember seeing you post in this thread the RG Zeta which you seemed to hate. Do you build but don't post photos, simply enjoying the plamo conversation, or do you just grow the backlog while not actually building much? :P
I build but dont post photos mostly. But my main problem is that i build infrequently, while still buying everything i want like an idiotI'm not going to criticize a backlog when mine is bigger than it should be but what made me curious is that I think I only remember seeing you post in this thread the RG Zeta which you seemed to hate. Do you build but don't post photos, simply enjoying the plamo conversation, or do you just grow the backlog while not actually building much? :P
Yes somehow it looks like it combined ugly parts of other similar gunpla into one. The chest and face looks odd.Of all the reinterpretations of RX-78-2 I've seen over the years, Bandai chose one ugly motherfucker for this HG G40 Industrial Design Ver. or whatever it's called.
Not getting this ever even if it got an insane discount. I'm really not sure what they are going for because it seems a bit expensive for an HG even if I were to like the design.
It does seem to have some advanced articulation. Here's hoping the technological advancements are used in something with a look that doesn't make you want to toss it in the trash.
Once you see the goofy face made by its chest you cannot unsee it.
Once you see the goofy face made by its chest you cannot unsee it.
The more I look at the articulation the more impressed I am and the more disappointed I am that it was used on something that I dislike so much. And this is coming from someone who is perfectly fine with the design of G-Self and Turn-A (as examples of somewhat unconventional Gundams).
Just decals and panel lining. The gray lines might be a bit thick, my marker tip started fraying mid-way through. Had to use a cotton swab and Gundam Marker eraser to clean up a few areas.
Aren't you in Singapore? I saw a lot of it being sold at the week-long sale at Singpost center this week.
If by "the ones in the inner legs" you are talking about the slightly raised parts in the ankles that have no groove at their edge, a way to give them a panel line is to create your own groove.
To add on to this, a scribing tool or chisel would work much better to make or deepen panel lines. Also some fine sandpaper or sanding sponge may be needed to clean any plastic burr that forms when scribing lines.If by "the ones in the inner legs" you are talking about the slightly raised parts in the ankles that have no groove at their edge, a way to give them a panel line is to create your own groove.
You have to be very careful but the result is good. Go with your hobby knife tracing the contour of the raised shape. Don't apply too much pressure, what you want is precision. Once you've created those lines around the shape, just panel line them like normal and clean with your thumb or an eraser.
Pros: very thin panel lines where before there were none that accentuate an already present shape. Cons: if you aren't careful you can create crooked lines that don't follow the actual shape.
I'm building the HiRS Astray Noir and it had chrome swords. I did my best with six nubs trying different methods but in the end it always left a mark.
Unless they are under-gated, yeah they are pretty bad since the nub mark will stick out compared to the finished surface. you will need some paint to try and make them less noticeable.
PG Perfect Strike just went up for pre-order on our site HLJ:Wubby hope you don't mind me asking you a question, since you're at the show. I know the Perfect Strike expansion set for the old PG Strike is a P-Bandai item, but I'm seeing some people saying that the entire Perfect Strike package (PG Strike + the add-ons) will be a retail release in February. 25,000 yen I believe. Is there any kind of information at the display to show that's true or is the entire thing P-Bandai?
Got it, thanks guys. Went ahead and ordered it, I'll try to be extra careful with nubs.
Awesome, thanks for the info!PG Perfect Strike just went up for pre-order on our site HLJ:
(Item page itself isn't working yet but can be added to the cart from the search page)
There was no tag next to the kit when I was there so it was a bit confusing. Only the add on set if you want to buy that separate is P-Bandai. The full kit is regular release.
Don't forget the FAZZ!