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Plastic Scale Modelling |OT| Gunpla and Everything Else
- Thread starter erd
- Start date
Thanks, I'll keep them for later than.
It's taking a while to build but it does look really good. Unlike some other kits, they put a lot of effort in placing the sprues/nubs in places you won't see afterwards.
It depends on which kit you want. I've heard Astray is solid and pretty much perfect. This Wing was pretty solid and barely any parts fell off. The only ones to really avoid are Barbatos and Wing Zero.
Is HiRM kit considered more detailed than MG? like a scaled down PG the same way RG is like a scaled down MG kind of thing?
The frames are solid as a rock. As for the parts, I had a few loose ones on my Hi Rez Wing Zero Custom, but nothing that cant be fixed.
Posing was more of a problem because of how huge the wings were and how they get in the way when posing other parts. It is more of a problem of the design rather than the quality of the kit. The astray should not have these problems since it does not have to deal with wings with like 50 points of articulation.
The hands also kind of had trouble holding the twin buster rifle since it is pretty heavy which causes the fingers to pop out, but that will most likely be fixed when I eventually paint it.
I would say they are about the same or slightly above MG details, dosent really reach PG levels imo. The advantage of the Hi res line is having much more articulation and moving gimmicks since it uses screws and metal parts on the frame.
My issue with HiRM kits is that it feels like a half-measure to appeal both to people who want to build a gunpla and also people who prefer out of the box stuff detailed stuff like Fix Figurations. But it ends up feeling neither here nor there. End result is high quality and nice looking, but if I wanted to spend money on a display model I don't have to build, I generally don't want to put in effort to also cut and build parts for the outer armor. And if I wanted to spend time building a kit, it's simply not satisfying for me to be just sticking armor pieces onto a complete premade skeleton.
The thing with the HiRM is that the style is slightly more exaggerated, so some people might prefer them to the generally more anime-accurate depiction of models in the MG line.
The God Gundam looks comparatively roided.
Time for the next build with the HGUC PMX-001 Pallas Athene. The official romanization is unfortunate trash, Palace doesn't make sense in any way whatsoever.
As I said earlier in this thread, I don't particularly like that the HG includes very prominent weaponry in the form of the eight large missiles that never appear in the animated series.
I ended up using the beam saber effect parts on the beam gun. They went in with almost no effort, I just had to clip the peg a little bit because it was slightly too long but the width was compatible without modifications.
On a semi-related note, I don't hate Reccoa as much as most of the Gundam fandom, I like that she is a woman with the will to do as she pleases. On the negative side, her rationality is severely lacking and in the end she falls for Paptimus pimping newtype powers, which is unfortunate and goes to undo a good chunk of her previous characterization
The God Gundam looks comparatively roided.
Time for the next build with the HGUC PMX-001 Pallas Athene. The official romanization is unfortunate trash, Palace doesn't make sense in any way whatsoever.
As I said earlier in this thread, I don't particularly like that the HG includes very prominent weaponry in the form of the eight large missiles that never appear in the animated series.
I ended up using the beam saber effect parts on the beam gun. They went in with almost no effort, I just had to clip the peg a little bit because it was slightly too long but the width was compatible without modifications.
On a semi-related note, I don't hate Reccoa as much as most of the Gundam fandom, I like that she is a woman with the will to do as she pleases. On the negative side, her rationality is severely lacking and in the end she falls for Paptimus pimping newtype powers, which is unfortunate and goes to undo a good chunk of her previous characterization
If you want a 1/100 scale, there's three good MG options: The 2.0 if you want an anime accurate look, the 3.0 if you want a more stylized look, and the ORIGIN version if, well, you just like that one more.
1/144, I would say the HGUC Revive kit.
I do like the color variation on the MG 3.0
That's gotta be what, 400 pieces? I'm gonna be building this thing for months.
The thing about gunpla is that
- You don't need to glue parts.
- You don't need to test fit anything or remove flash because the quality of the molding is great, specially on something like the 3.0 which represents the latest technology Bandai uses.
- Even if you want to paint it using the original color scheme, the plastic being in the intended color probably helps, if anything, to organize which pieces to paint the same color.
Those are all great things, but they're also true for all the other model kits I've done. I don't really have the skills or patience to do kits that require glue or rely heavily on paint to look good.
I probably will do some light painting for shading and panel lines though. The build will just be much more complex than the various Bandai and Kotobukiya kits I've put together in the past.
By any chance, does anyone know which kit is this piece from? It fell off earlier while I was changing some poses, but I'm not sure who it belongs to. The kits I have are the RG Red Astray, Gold Astray, Exia and Sazabi, and the HG Moon, Psycho Zaku, Carta's Graze, RX-78-2.
It looks like L 10 from the RG Astray Gold Frame Amatsu Mina?By any chance, does anyone know which kit is this piece from? It fell off earlier while I was changing some poses, but I'm not sure who it belongs to. The kits I have are the RG Red Astray, Gold Astray, Exia and Sazabi, and the HG Moon, Psycho Zaku, Carta's Graze, RX-78-2.
https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10444022/40/1
I'd say they are from the lance as shown here.
https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10444022/30/3
https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10444022/30/10
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Can confirm this is it, it's one of the parts on the tip of the Okitsu no Kagami weapon
EDIT: Beaten.
Thanks! I should have guessed that it was from there, that part of the lance kept falling off.
In other news, I finished the Sazabi. Seeing it complete, I'm kinda rethinking the idea of topcoating. It looks so good like it is, I'm afraid I'll just ruin it.
In other news, I finished the Sazabi. Seeing it complete, I'm kinda rethinking the idea of topcoating. It looks so good like it is, I'm afraid I'll just ruin it.
I know the feeling. That's why I tried topcoating on a simple HG before doing it to my better kits. Panel lines and topcoats make a lot of a difference in the end though.
Yeah, I'll probably do that too. Great job on the Moon, by the way.
Panel lining the psycho plate must have taken forever. I like the extra detail the markings give to the kit, specially on the white parts.
I just finished the Moon Gundam!
I added spare waterslides and stickers from kits I have already finished.
The nitpicker in me cannot unsee the Char Aznable Custom one, though. ;) /Insert ackchyually gif here/
It's not that bad with the tamiya panel line wash, it goes pretty quickly.
Good eye! It says Aznable Squad on that sticker, and it's from the RG Char's Z'Gok. I think it's funny since the Moon Gundam is supposed to be a Sazabi prototype to begin with.
The markings are an amalgam of waterslides and normal stickers from different kits. Mostly RG Unicorn ones since I had a lot of spare ones there. There's some RG Astray ones on the front skirt.
After posts like this, I'm a bit wary of said panel line wash, even if it's supposed to only be bad if it seeps between pieces.
I was a bit concerned about this before I bought panel line wash, but it just hasn't been my experience at all.
I always* panel line wash while the parts are on the runner. No risk of it seeping between the pieces, and it's easy to both put on and clean up.
The only time anything has ever broken for me due to panel lining was some tiny shoulder parts on my RG Exia that I panel lined after assembly, which out of 13+ kits panel lined is pretty good, I'd say.
*all kits made since after I bought the panel lines wash, of course.
I just finished the Moon Gundam!
I added spare waterslides and stickers from kits I have already finished.
This makes me want to make a second Moon Gundam and redo the panel lines all over again. Really like the kit XD
The first one I did was my 2nd or 3rd HG kit so I decided to use a mechanical pencil. I liked the results but a panel wash one would be great too.
Do you still do a laqueur top coat gloss first before panel lining if you are doing on the runner?
It's a really nice kit for sure.
Nah I just put it on the bare plastic, I don't do anything with the runners before panel lining. I just let them dry for a bit afterwards before I start to clean them up with enamel thinner.
Finally about to start making Gunpla after so many years. Backlog is pretty hefty right now but mostly HGs at least. I do need to rebuy/reacquire tools and I ended up getting this off of Amazon but pretty much have nothing else. What else do I need to get? I do have tons of sandpaper from housework, but I don't remember how fine they are.
I do eventually want to try paint some but I don't really know where to start with that. I do have an unused base set of Gundam Markers, but that's about it.
I do eventually want to try paint some but I don't really know where to start with that. I do have an unused base set of Gundam Markers, but that's about it.
I don't think you really *need* anything else to begin with. I don't even use sandpaper since I have a pair of good nippers.
I'd say nippers + hobby knife + tweezers for stickers/decals is enough but sandpaper can be cool if you want to use them to fix nub marks.
Maybe I'll do that with a kit next time. I did it for my RG Unicorn but I did a layer of gloss Mr Hobby Clear first.
Had some cracks in a HG RX-78-2 I built a while ago but I was panel lining after snapping everything together and went too liberal with the brush.
Neat, Kotobikiya reissued their Death Stinger.
I have to assume you bit the bullet and got the 3.0?
Enjoy the build, there's something about the best Master Grades where everything just works and it's hassle-free compared to other kits (in my case those would be High Grades).
Enjoy the build, there's something about the best Master Grades where everything just works and it's hassle-free compared to other kits (in my case those would be High Grades).
That's the one. I'm probably gonna have to pick up an LED Unit at some point as well.
RG Crossbone is pretty awesome.
Quick static pose before I had to go to work, but I'll definitely being doing some poses with those lovely beam effect parts.
Quick static pose before I had to go to work, but I'll definitely being doing some poses with those lovely beam effect parts.
Question for those who airbrush varnish: do you keep a separate brush for shooting varnish? I'd kinda like to buy a cheap brush and not spray varnish through my Eclipse or Sotar, but don't want to buy a complete piece of junk not even worth varnishing with.
That looks quite awesome. Requesting pictures taken in a darker environment.
I'm happy with the Banshee Norn lighting model. The pulsating light looks very nice
Here you go. Just took some on my balcony with my phone.
Banshee Norn in the dark https://imgur.com/a/H24Mjif
It's great. A bit of a shame that it's exclusive and import prices are insane.
The PG LED kit it's looking more tempting than it ever did, though.
I was planning on taking a break after the Crossbone but my Barnes & Noble knows how to get me.
But after this, nothing for a few weeks until I can get the RG Nu.
But after this, nothing for a few weeks until I can get the RG Nu.
Narrator's voice: So keeps telling himself, but reality has different plans.
OP
OP
I only have 1 airbrush so I don't really have a choice. I do remember watching a youtube video where someone switched to a cheaper airbrush for varnishing/basecoating though. It makes sense seeing as those two things are simple enough that they shouldn't really benefit from more expensive airbrushes. I think I remember the airbrush being labeled as a "cheap Iwata clone" in the video, so probably something like a Master G22 but I think those can be hit-or-miss when it comes to quality control.
I know people also use separate brushes for metallic colors, which also makes sense since it can be a pain to fully clean the airbrush after using those.
I can already see the RE/100 Zaku Kai tempting you from the shelf of the hobby shop so the Alex can have some company.
It has come! Shining fingeeeeerrrrrrr!!!!!
Cept looking at the kit it's begging for panel lining at the least and maybe some further detailing on the boosters for charge mode...
Ok guys this is what I have for detailing:
Any good guides or advice on how i should do this? While still on the frame is recommended right?
Cept looking at the kit it's begging for panel lining at the least and maybe some further detailing on the boosters for charge mode...
Ok guys this is what I have for detailing:
Any good guides or advice on how i should do this? While still on the frame is recommended right?