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Rahvar

Weight Loss Champion 2018: Most Lost
Member
Oct 25, 2017
2,151
Sweden
It has come! Shining fingeeeeerrrrrrr!!!!!
Kuonwtv.jpg

Cept looking at the kit it's begging for panel lining at the least and maybe some further detailing on the boosters for charge mode...

Ok guys this is what I have for detailing:
AShiUvh.jpg

Any good guides or advice on how i should do this? While still on the frame is recommended right?

Those are the thick gundam markers? As far as I know they are not used for panel lining. I use mine to cover surfaces that I have sanded nubs.

For panel lining I use either the thin-tippped ones or the liquid ones.
 

Mandos

Member
Nov 27, 2017
30,837
Those are the thick gundam markers? As far as I know they are not used for panel lining. I use mine to cover surfaces that I have sanded nubs.

For panel lining I use either the thin-tippped ones or the liquid ones.
The right one is for panel lining and is smaller I believe, the rest are for detailing i think. On the flip side there's quite a few spots in this guy that need detailing
 

xEik

The Fallen
Nov 17, 2017
4,422
Principality of Catalonia
Not gonna lie, I'd already been thinking about getting it for two reasons. I've yet to build a RE/100 kit, and I've never built a Zaku before.
I was gonna add to my previous comment that your builds seem to have a higher percentage of Gundams than Zeon suits but I seem to recall either a Sazabi or a Sinanju.
I found interesting what Okawara says in the recent Gundam documentary, that Zakus are where he had creative freedom because all Tomino wanted from them was that they had a monoeye while for the Federation suits he was constrained by what the toy makers and the animation staff wanted.
 

Deleted member 5745

Account closed at user request
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Oct 25, 2017
5,429
You remember correctly. There's only 4 non-Gundam Gunpla kits I've built.

HG Grahams Union Flag Custom
RG Sinanju
HGAC Leo
RG Sazabi

I really should branch out into grunt suits.
 

Deleted member 17952

User requested account closure
Banned
Oct 27, 2017
1,980
I was planning on taking a break after the Crossbone but my Barnes & Noble knows how to get me.

zytKOjw.jpg


But after this, nothing for a few weeks until I can get the RG Nu.
Very nice. I've already picked one up as well but haven't gone around to building it as I'm still working on the MG Char Zaku II. One thing to watch out for is the very tight wrist, as I've read a lot that some have broken theirs just from twisting.

On-topic of Zeon/enemy suits, I myself have only bought the MG Char Zaku II 2.0 and the HG Origin Char Zaku II due to just having finished watching Gundam The Origin and being hyped as fuck. After the excitement died down and now actually building the MG Zaku, I'm left feeling kinda meh about Zeon suits. The only Zeon suits that I actually like are the Kampfer, Sinanju, Sazabi, Kshatrya, and Hyaku Shiki (if you count AEUG as kinda Zeon). I'm probably done buying any other Zeon suit and have no interest getting the likes of Marasai, Gelgoog, Gyan, etc.

I don't like Feddie grunt suits either, but the MG GM Command Colony Type has left me very impressed, and I'm still looking for the MG GM Sniper II. Jesta is awesome as well.
 
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Mandos

Member
Nov 27, 2017
30,837
Hmmm a brown bagged box with a Japanese shipping label, I wonder what it could be
DJ4vnMI.jpg

Tada! It's nice to have a backlog again
CmbGCsN.jpg

Kinda interesting to see how things have changed, the MG box is only slightly bigger...
I definitely think I want to use my Shining Gundam for my first panel lining practice but I still need advice and tips

Again this is what I have, only the right most one is for panel lining, the others are for detail painting like the Vulcans on the RX-78-2 HG that are just white.
AShiUvh_d.jpg

I am wondering if I can get away for using the yellow paint marker for the charge mode leg boosters on the shining though
 

xEik

The Fallen
Nov 17, 2017
4,422
Principality of Catalonia
Again this is what I have, only the right most one is for panel lining, the others are for detail painting like the Vulcans on the RX-78-2 HG that are just white.
That panel lining pen has a soft tip. It's good for hard to reach places but if you go too hard on it by applying too much pressure you'll eventually destroy the tip.
The ink on that one IIRC is grey which is good for white plastic but it would be barely visible in anything darker like red and totally unnoticeable on blue where black ink is recommended.

The metallic on the left is nice for doing some detailing in stuff like hydraulic cylinders.
 

Deleted member 5745

Account closed at user request
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Oct 25, 2017
5,429
So, the Alex. I always hated the chobham armor, both in the show and on my old MSiA. But here it just works. Maybe it's the face mask they added, but I was seriously tempted to just leave it armored up.

The build was actually pretty easy. Felt like an older MG but that's fine, I found it fun and relaxing.

Tried not to do anything too crazy with the wrists because they're tight as hell. Wish I'd seen that warning before I build the arms. And there may be a few stress marks, my nippers need to be replaced.

20190815-011113.jpg


20190815-013344.jpg


Few more pics here: https://ibb.co/album/b9uQ1F
 

entrydenied

The Fallen
Oct 26, 2017
7,555
So, the Alex. I always hated the chobham armor, both in the show and on my old MSiA. But here it just works. Maybe it's the face mask they added, but I was seriously tempted to just leave it armored up.

The build was actually pretty easy. Felt like an older MG but that's fine, I found it fun and relaxing.

Tried not to do anything too crazy with the wrists because they're tight as hell. Wish I'd seen that warning before I build the arms. And there may be a few stress marks, my nippers need to be replaced.

20190815-011113.jpg


20190815-013344.jpg


Few more pics here: https://ibb.co/album/b9uQ1F

There's something cute about that face that seems to work with the chunky armour lol.
 

Mandos

Member
Nov 27, 2017
30,837
Say xEik do you think I could use that gunmetallic Gundam marker to color the super mode pieces that are just grey and lack stickers on the Shining Gundam? Wouldn't nessecarily be the perfect exact color but it's what I have to work with. Any tips would be welcome

Also considering using the proper markers on my fuunsaiki since a lot of it's red and yellow detail spots it's lacking
 

xEik

The Fallen
Nov 17, 2017
4,422
Principality of Catalonia
I wouldn't expect a super shiny finish by using the gunmetallicence pen, specially on large flat surfaces.
The colour definitely looks metallic but the finish is more on the dull side.
Just try to use it on the spare plastic of the runners and let it dry to see for yourself what appearance you get with it.
There is one pen (not included in that set) that is specifically gold colour but I haven't tried it so I don't know how it looks.
For Fuunsaiki, I'd say go for it. Pens are OK for small details. Alternatively, you can use a small brush, if you have one, to help you better distribute the paint applied by the pen.
 

Yukari

Member
Mar 28, 2018
11,681
Thailand
7 Years After Build My First RG Freedom (which it's broken now and I already order used for replacement)
Now, I build MY Second RG, RX 78 2. The Tiny Part is still a nightmare.
 

Deleted member 5745

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Oct 25, 2017
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So I picked up the blu rays of Zeta and now I'm really considering getting the MG Zeta 2.0. Anyone have experience with that kit? The only Zeta I've built was the RG and that thing was a total grenade.

I blame building the Alex 2.0 and the MG Barbatos announcement but I'm seriously considering getting an MG of each main Gundam from each series (MG G-Self when?) as I work on building up my blu ray collection.
 

xEik

The Fallen
Nov 17, 2017
4,422
Principality of Catalonia
So I picked up the blu rays of Zeta and now I'm really considering getting the MG Zeta 2.0. Anyone have experience with that kit? The only Zeta I've built was the RG and that thing was a total grenade.
The build I found is fine. It won't explode on you but I never transformed it because its a bit of a chore.
My biggest grip with it is that the legs are barely posable if you put it on the ground because both the knees and the ankles have its range of motion restricted by the transformation mechanisms. It's also a bit back-heavy because of the wings.
On the other hand, it comes with an enormous stand in the shape of Argama's linear catapult so doing an air pose is relatively easy.
My OOB build plus panel lining is here to get an idea of what it looks like.
I blame building the Alex 2.0 and the MG Barbatos announcement but I'm seriously considering getting an MG of each main Gundam from each series (MG G-Self when?) as I work on building up my blu ray collection.
Regarding main Gundams, I'm planning to build a MG GP01 soon (although not immediately) and looking at the manual, that kit, by virtue of being from 1996, looks quite terrible from an engineering point of view. No wonder people are asking for a 2.0
 
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Deleted member 5745

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Thanks for the images. I think I'll jump on it, but probably after I do some shopping tomorrow. Just in case I find something while I'm out.

And yeah, I'm saving the GP-01 for close to last, even though I've already got 0083 bought. Maybe by the time I get through everything else they'll announce a 2.0.
 

Mandos

Member
Nov 27, 2017
30,837
Well finally broke out the Gundam markers for testing and well it still needs to finish drying and I'll have to fix the runover with red Gundam marker but boy are these better than using the stickers for color correction
kWha4br.jpg


xEik you we're right though the gun metallic is too dark a shade for those pieces I'll have to see if I can get a set with the right color.
Edit: I think either the advance set or the metallic set have the color I need, which do you recommend?
But yeah these are great but it'll take me practice before I can do delicate parts well.
I was thinking about grabbing one or two of the other color sets and doing a custom detail build of a base kit.

What's the most fun GM HG or similar recommendation like the Leo? Something with a white or light color scheme that I can just mess around on and get a handle on these with?
 
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xEik

The Fallen
Nov 17, 2017
4,422
Principality of Catalonia
To fix this runover you are probably going to get better results removing paint (with alcohol if needed) than painting with red over it. Specially thanks to such a well defined edge.

In case you are looking for a gold marker, it's sold individually, I don't think I've ever seen it sold inside a pack.
As for a cheap HG GM, I always vouch for the RGM-79C GM Kai.
The main color is light but not white. More like a sand color.
It's the one in the middle bottom in this GM group photo. The one in the right bottom is a very similar kit, the Powered GM.
 

Mandos

Member
Nov 27, 2017
30,837
In case you are looking for a gold marker, it's sold individually, I don't think I've ever seen it sold inside a pack.
As for a cheap HG GM, I always vouch for the RGM-79C GM Kai.
The main color is light but not white. More like a sand color.
It's the one in the middle bottom in this GM group photo. The one in the right bottom is a very similar kit, the Powered GM.
That could work, I was just after a neutral color base I could do some fun detailing on like a shark head or something silly.

Also I was looking at packs since I'm us and a Japan order is cheap, plus I wanted to have some more to mess with. Plus I want to order a Zeon color marker set anyways. These 2 have a gold(I need it for the shining charge boosters, probably the burning ones as well)
This one has a standard gold but it's all metallic colors which is good and bad
otteoTo.jpg

Whereas this one is just an advanced secondary main Gundam colors set and has the GM04 Gundam Gold market in it and I'd probably get more immediate use out of it
rWMJ683.jpg

Should point out that other than the hg mg messing around I'm mainly focusing on detailing and don't plan to do any full body painting with these, mainly stickerless detailing

Edit would finger nail polish remover and a q tip work? I have both on hand
 

xEik

The Fallen
Nov 17, 2017
4,422
Principality of Catalonia
I haven't used any of these two markers so it's hard to say what the difference will be between those gold colours.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think nail polish remover can melt plastic as it often contains acetone which is the component used in plastic cement. I could be remembering wrong but I'd be very cautious using it and do a test on spare plastic runners first.
Regular alcohol is a much safer bet.
 

Mandos

Member
Nov 27, 2017
30,837
I haven't used any of these two markers so it's hard to say what the difference will be between those gold colours.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think nail polish remover can melt plastic as it often contains acetone which is the component used in plastic cement. I could be remembering wrong but I'd be very cautious using it and do a test on spare plastic runners first.
Regular alcohol is a much safer bet.
Thanks for the warning and I found some 50% isopropyl alcohol that should do the trick. I got a little thicker in spots than I like but I did manage to not fill in the lines so that's a win. Thankfully most of the gold pieces are secondary details so I can work on the rest of kit till that gets in(or work on Shadow Gundam, I'm only doing panel lining on that one)
I'm probably going to with the advanced kit then, more useful colors to me right now than the metallic kit. Now to decide between the RGM-79C GM Kai or the Jegan. I just want something fun that I don't mind doing a custom paint job on

Edit: found the advanced Gundam set from a us shipper for 7 bucks and should arrive this week which will give me the gold needed. Waiting on any other kit and marker sets since what I have should work with what I have
Edit2: thinking of doing the white lining on the core launcher thrusters then using gunmetallic for the vents since I don't have a gray but it should look fine. I'm not worried about painting over the white on the vents but I'm wondering if I can use regular scotch tape as a barrier to keep the white from getting on the blue areas
 
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Deleted member 5745

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Oct 25, 2017
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Got the Zeta 2.0 on its way.

Went out to shop today and found out one of the hobby stores I usually go to for Gunpla closed down :( So now it's only Barnes and Noble or online for me. But B&N had this so I figured it was time to build my first Zaku kit.

20190824-211958.jpg
 

Mandos

Member
Nov 27, 2017
30,837
Got the Zeta 2.0 on its way.

Went out to shop today and found out one of the hobby stores I usually go to for Gunpla closed down :( So now it's only Barnes and Noble or online for me. But B&N had this so I figured it was time to build my first Zaku kit.

20190824-211958.jpg
It's a solid kit! Good pick. I still want the origin guntank

Hmm I wonder if I could get away using regular scotch tape as masking for Gundam marker painting...
 

xEik

The Fallen
Nov 17, 2017
4,422
Principality of Catalonia
Hmm I wonder if I could get away using regular scotch tape as masking for Gundam marker painting...
You can use regular scotch tape as masking but I think it's going to make your life a little harder than masking tape.
Mostly because regular scotch tape has higher tack than masking tape so its harder to peel away once your paint has dried. I'm unsure how the plastic finish affects usage, masking tape has a kind of paper finish (it's like painter's tape just smaller, maybe lower tack and more flexible) and I suspect it is like this to absorb paint and minimize seeping below the tape wherever adhesion isn't perfect.
Another thing is that regular tape likes to break which makes removal more complicated while masking tape is more sturdy to mere traction.
 

Mandos

Member
Nov 27, 2017
30,837
You can use regular scotch tape as masking but I think it's going to make your life a little harder than masking tape.
Mostly because regular scotch tape has higher tack than masking tape so its harder to peel away once your paint has dried. I'm unsure how the plastic finish affects usage, masking tape has a kind of paper finish (it's like painter's tape just smaller, maybe lower tack and more flexible) and I suspect it is like this to absorb paint and minimize seeping below the tape wherever adhesion isn't perfect.
Another thing is that regular tape likes to break which makes removal more complicated while masking tape is more sturdy to mere traction.
Shrug I guess I'll see if I can find a narrow thing of masking/painters tape then. I really want to do those vents properly
 
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Decarbia

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,437
Narrow masking tape should be easy to find. Just go to a hardware store.

I've got a Full Armor RX-78-7 I need to start on
 

Mandos

Member
Nov 27, 2017
30,837
hmmm the shining has a bunch of spots with black detailing and some have stickers but a lot don't, and I think Gunmetallic is dark enough to do the trick although of course I'd use it on the areas that do have stickers too(same goes for the gold) as then I need consistency
vsHxuYq.jpg

The paint is that bottom left bit, in the picture you can see the footguard and some intakes that are fully black. The intake on 10 is another spot I'd do
Narrow masking tape should be easy to find. Just go to a hardware store.

I've got a Full Armor RX-78-7 I need to start on
Yeah just have to go to it is all. Maybe during a morning walk tomorrow
 

xEik

The Fallen
Nov 17, 2017
4,422
Principality of Catalonia
A bit late with this one, both for being kind of a long build and because life got in the way of taking out the light-box for some photos.

Master Grade MSA-0011 S Gundam

EC2VCtQW4AM3gPR


EC2VDy2W4AEYL_7


EC2VE47X4AAYtAt


EC2VF6FWwAQmQI4


The MS is the definition of excess, as its successor name, the Ex-S, clearly hints. Everything is big. Lots of things have two of them when other MS usually have only one.

The kit is kind of old. The plastic is weirdly rigid compared to modern kits and for some reason it seems easy to scratch when cleaning nubs. Maybe it's related to everything being extremely stiff. Being a kit from 2002, perhaps at the time the only way Bandai found to make this kit capable of standing was to make everything extremely stiff. And use lots of screws. To the point that when moving some articulated parts you feel like you may snap something.
Talking of screws, I managed to fuck up one of them. The manual tells you not to tighten them too much but one in the shoulder mechanism never seemed to tighten and it would just rotate so I had to glue a couple of pieces together. When in MS mode, they are fine but I fear they'l split if I try to transform the torso into its G Atacker fighter mode.

As for what I did with the build apart form panel lining: Apart from painting a few details in black that are hardly visible (like the core fighter cockpit in the crotch), I painted clear green the big sensor in the weapon and put silver spare sticker behind it to make the green more visible. I also put a bit of leftover green sticker in the weapon front mini-sensor.
When I applied the red stickers on the rear wings they looked really bad so I decided to discard them. Right now the wings are are all white but the idea is to paint the parts that are supposed to be red when time allows and since it's a slightly big flat surface Id' rather use an airbrush instead of the regular brush I used for detailing. I'll eventually do it, as of when, that's a completely different matter as I'm prone to procrastinating for this after-the-build fixes.
Lastly, I went for the 01 marking on the left shoulder instead of the "Gundam System" (that I put on the right one) because it matches certain reference pictures and the HG (to be built in the future).

All in all, an MS that commands an imposing presence in the shelf if a bit stiff whenever it has to be posed or transformed. An who doesn't love yellow grille sideburns?
 

Rahvar

Weight Loss Champion 2018: Most Lost
Member
Oct 25, 2017
2,151
Sweden
My current backlog is the PG Freedom and these:
NNfOsCf.jpg



Working on the MG Hyaku Shiki atm.
 

entrydenied

The Fallen
Oct 26, 2017
7,555
Finished my first MG kit, the Shenlong EW with Liao Ya Unit.

Really like the proportions and colours but the Liao Ya and waterslides are probably not worth it if you need to pay a premium to get this PBandai kit. I ordered straight from P-Bandai so it was worth the price.

 

entrydenied

The Fallen
Oct 26, 2017
7,555
The Shenlong looks really good.
Is it your first time topcoating as well?

Yeah it really is a good looking kit.

I've topcoated a few times on other kits. Generally topcoat half my kits or so. I did matt on most areas, and gloss on the red and yellow parts, along with the front of the shield and Liao Ya.
 

Mandos

Member
Nov 27, 2017
30,837
I just realized, um all my detail painting will be fine without a top coat right? Also gold marker gets in today so I'll probably attempt the final regular painting today and start panel lining tomorrow and I'll take some pics before I assemble. Some hiccups but nothing too horrible
 

Euler

Member
Oct 27, 2017
4,836
I just realized, um all my detail painting will be fine without a top coat right? Also gold marker gets in today so I'll probably attempt the final regular painting today and start panel lining tomorrow and I'll take some pics before I assemble. Some hiccups but nothing too horrible
Yeah I usually do all my detail painting before any topcoats.
 

Euler

Member
Oct 27, 2017
4,836
No I meant I might not do a topcoat, I wouldn't know what to use and the detailing alone is giving me trouble, I just got overambitious when all I meant to do was paint some gold parts XD
Oh yeah it's fine but it just means you might be able to more easily scratch off the paint, and it might be easier to get sun bleached etc. Top coating isn't very difficult though, it's worth looking into.
 

Callibretto

Member
Oct 25, 2017
9,488
Indonesia
Anyone had tips how to clean gunpla from long dust exposure? I had some gunpla that I place on a rack with no cover and left it there for probably a year or more, I realize recently that it got dust all over but the dust seems to stick the matte coat surface and they don't go away easily.

I'm wondering if it's okay to wash the gunpla, dropped it in soap water or something? Somenof the gunpla is painted with flat top coat over it
 

Callibretto

Member
Oct 25, 2017
9,488
Indonesia
You could try with a big soft brush or something that can blow air like a compressor before you go the riskier routes that involve liquids.
I already tried soft brush

edit: tried separating the gunpla to big parts like body, arm, etc and tried brushing it in more detail, most of the dust is gone, but you can still see a little dust here under bright light. it's not too visible when viewed under normal light and from afar. I'll have to see later if it's still visible when I take photo in lightbox and zoomed in on the figure
 
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Cymbal Head

Member
Oct 25, 2017
2,369
This might sound weird, but I've had good results from taking some of the fibers from an electrostatic duster (i.e. Swiffer) and making a little swab out of them. It does a good, if not perfect, job catching dust.
 

Mandos

Member
Nov 27, 2017
30,837
Progress! Gold marker came in yesterday and it works perfectly
LFxVzun.jpg

YBLLzA0.jpg

I'm less perfect but it's looking good despite how rough I am at painting.

I'll have to touch up the boosters after I cut them off but overall I did pretty decently. I have to decide if I'm doing painting on the core launcher fighter cockpit or using stickers. And if I'm painting the vents which will be a True challenge. I do have some gentle adhesive painters tape I picked up but I could use advice

Also any top coat recommendations(in USA), I'm not sure whether matte or gloss, problem is the gold needs a gloss, but the rest would probably need matte. Plus what's the easiest method?

Also finally back to watching wing gundam. Boy the Albion is a cool design, does it have a good kit?
 

Deleted member 5745

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I've only topcoated one kit, the MG ZZ ver. Ka and that was solely to seal in the waterslide decals.

I don't mind the plastic look tbh.
 

Mandos

Member
Nov 27, 2017
30,837
Oh and after the painting the cockpit and vents, then comes the true challenge: panel lining! Or maybe that'll be easier after all this painting by comparison XD.