The MG is a pretty straightforward build. Can't panel lined due to the gold coating and most of it is undergated so not a lot of nubs cleanup
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Plastic Scale Modelling |OT| Gunpla and Everything Else
- Thread starter erd
- Start date
The MG is a pretty straightforward build. Can't panel lined due to the gold coating and most of it is undergated so not a lot of nubs cleanup
Ooo that under gating would definitely make things a lot easier especially with a color like that
I'm also curious about this. I got some knockoff barebones stands (this type) that do OK, but if I can get something more poseable for cheap I'd be happy.
Water is fine for glossy parts. As for soap, it may depend on the product. My advice would be to dilute it well and try how it interacts with spare plastic from the same runner before you commit to the actual parts.
The ink of panel line pens doesn't work too well with glossy parts. It does not like to stick so if you use it, once it's in a state you are OK with, let it dry for longer than you usually would. Again, you can test it on spare plastic from the runner.
Anyone get in on the /r/gunpla secret santa?
My SS left me some very broad choices and having a hard time choosing
My SS left me some very broad choices and having a hard time choosing
Hyaku Shiki deserves at least the Hyaku kanji dry transfers on the shoulders. Not using the stickers or the other dry transfers is fine but those two signs are a staple of the mobile suit.Hyaku-Shiki is done.
Next up:
They stick well even on the gold parts in case you are worried about that.
That's exactly what I was worried about. Will fix that, thanks! :)
Fixed:
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My Reconguista shelf still looks like this (finding the Catsith in the Reconguista shelf picture is kind of hard) while I've bought a couple of Detolfs to better space the kits that used to populate the HGUC shelf so now they aren't as crowded as they used to be and I have a 0079 shelf, a Zeta shelf, a ZZ shelf, a War in the Pocket shelf, a Stardust Memories shelf, a Char's Counterattack shelf and a Unicorn shelf (all those are for HG, the MG area is separate).
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Cross-post from the Gundam thread:
I've built 3 MG this week. Hyaku-Shiki, Freedom 2.0 Clear Version and Deathscythe EW. Now I've got a backlog consisting of MG ZZ Ver. Ka. Which probably will be a hand grenade, MG HeavyArms EW, MG Proto Zero which both are older kits similar to the Deathscythe I just built. MG Phenex, which will be my first Unicorn/Narrative kit. The Shin Musha Gundam with the weapon display and screens. 2 HG Maganac to go with my Wing collection. RG Tallgeese that I have the MG of already. PG Freedom which I plan to build at the end and a 1/1700 Argama.
I kind of want to build the Argama next, but it's in all white and I've never painted anything before. How difficult would it be, and how many supplies would I have to pick up to hand paint it?
I've built 3 MG this week. Hyaku-Shiki, Freedom 2.0 Clear Version and Deathscythe EW. Now I've got a backlog consisting of MG ZZ Ver. Ka. Which probably will be a hand grenade, MG HeavyArms EW, MG Proto Zero which both are older kits similar to the Deathscythe I just built. MG Phenex, which will be my first Unicorn/Narrative kit. The Shin Musha Gundam with the weapon display and screens. 2 HG Maganac to go with my Wing collection. RG Tallgeese that I have the MG of already. PG Freedom which I plan to build at the end and a 1/1700 Argama.
I kind of want to build the Argama next, but it's in all white and I've never painted anything before. How difficult would it be, and how many supplies would I have to pick up to hand paint it?
Well just finished up this guy, lots of cool new joint techniques and the lowest amount of poly caps I've seen in a hg(4) only did some panel lining, didn't have the right paint colors to replace the stickers. Probably need a new pair of nippers
Probably doing the sdcs shin getter or rg Tallgeese III next. My grandma who's done crafting for years and I got my exactoknives from comes to town in a week and she says she has some knife techniques to show me that could help me up my game
Probably doing the sdcs shin getter or rg Tallgeese III next. My grandma who's done crafting for years and I got my exactoknives from comes to town in a week and she says she has some knife techniques to show me that could help me up my game
Proto Zero isn't really that old. It's from 2013 and I'm not sure if it shares anything with the Endless Waltz kits (those do share some parts between themselves).
The Shin Musha Gundam Sengoku no Jin, though, that's one hell of an iterative release:
- Sengoku no Jin is a special release from 2009 of the regular Shin Musha Gundam
- Shin Musha Gundam is a 2008 release using parts of the One Year War Gundam (and parts of the 1.5 for the frame)
- One Year War Gundam is a 2005 release using parts of the Gundam 1.5
- The Gundam 1.5 is a release from 2000 which is an improved variant of the Gundam 1.0
- The Gundam 1.0 is the first Master Grade gunpla ever which was released in 1995
This is the final result of me re-posing most of my kits (for like 4 hours straight); I kept the HG Psycho Zaku and RG Sazabi as they were, for now at the very least.
As usual, now that it's winter, taking decent pictures is kind of impossible for me, but I think it gives a good idea. I quite like this arrangement overall; I should look for a better riser, for when I'm not using the action bases.
I still really enjoy placing the tiny pilots in front of the kits.
As usual, now that it's winter, taking decent pictures is kind of impossible for me, but I think it gives a good idea. I quite like this arrangement overall; I should look for a better riser, for when I'm not using the action bases.
I still really enjoy placing the tiny pilots in front of the kits.
My local gunpla shop was having a photo-shoot for a calendar this weekend and this is what I went with. I kit bashed a Barbatos Lupus and Deathscythe Hell EW (and the tail and hands from a Ghirarga) and modeled it after Diablos from FFVIII.
I call it Barbatos Diabolos:
I call it Barbatos Diabolos:
That looks sick! Nicely done.My local gunpla shop was having a photo-shoot for a calendar this weekend and this is what I went with. I kit bashed a Barbatos Lupus and Deathscythe Hell EW (and the tail and hands from a Ghirarga) and modeled it after Diablos from FFVIII.
I call it Barbatos Diabolos:
Finished my BueCue a little while ago. wanted to take better pics but ever got around to it. Really brittle kit, broke more pieces than I have in every other kit combined, but robot animals are cool by default.
What the fuck is wrong with the HG Mazinger Z Infinity Ver. box? Is it just huge or too heavy? I ended paying considerably more for shipping than the kit itself because it was ineligible for small packet. SMH.
EDIT: I just checked episode 288 of Gunpla TV on YouTube and the box is just stupidly wide but short and it doesn't have a big amount of pieces. Thanks for nothing, Bandai.
The same thing already happened to me with Kotobukiya's Mitsurigi Meya's Takemikazuchi 1.5
Model boxes that are unnecessarily wide while not being tall at all are just stupid.
/rant over
EDIT: I just checked episode 288 of Gunpla TV on YouTube and the box is just stupidly wide but short and it doesn't have a big amount of pieces. Thanks for nothing, Bandai.
The same thing already happened to me with Kotobukiya's Mitsurigi Meya's Takemikazuchi 1.5
Model boxes that are unnecessarily wide while not being tall at all are just stupid.
/rant over
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Has there been any word on whether Bandai will be releasing a decal sheet for the MG Zaku Warrior?
I'm building the kit right now but really don't want to use stickers
I'm building the kit right now but really don't want to use stickers
Hello there, I started to build the RG Nu Gundam but I have an issue with the piston for one of the knee...
The cylinders going inside the pistons are supposed to stay in place when bending the knee, but they are falling off the piston instead like in the following photo:
Instead, this is how the articulation is supposed to work for the other knee when bent:
When I'm inserting the cylinders piece in the piston, it falls off quite easily and the grip is loose.
Does anyone know of a way to strenghten the grip of the cylinders inside the piston?
Help would be greatly appreciated to save this Gunpla!
The cylinders going inside the pistons are supposed to stay in place when bending the knee, but they are falling off the piston instead like in the following photo:
Instead, this is how the articulation is supposed to work for the other knee when bent:
When I'm inserting the cylinders piece in the piston, it falls off quite easily and the grip is loose.
Does anyone know of a way to strenghten the grip of the cylinders inside the piston?
Help would be greatly appreciated to save this Gunpla!
Hello there, I started to build the RG Nu Gundam but I have an issue with the piston for one of the knee...
The cylinders going inside the pistons are supposed to stay in place when bending the knee, but they are falling off the piston instead like in the following photo:
Instead, this is how the articulation is supposed to work for the other knee when bent:
When I'm inserting the cylinders piece in the piston, it falls off quite easily and the grip is loose.
Does anyone know of a way to strenghten the grip of the cylinders inside the piston?
Help would be greatly appreciated to save this Gunpla!
Strange issue. Normally when a piston falls out like that I would assume something has gone wrong in assembling, like the piston is too short, or the knee bends too far.
Normally to strengthen ball joints etc, you can cover the ball joint in a thin layer of nail polish, don't think that applies here since it's a matter of it falling out rather than a loose joint
Bought some kits over the last few months and some were from a year ago (such as Crossbome and Red Warrior). The others came this and last week. I still have 2 more kits on the way: SDCS Crossbone and Zaku.
My models so far:
My models so far:
The blue one is nice as well, but there's already a lot blue in the other kits. It is panel lined, though I didn't make it too thick (and it's relatively far off in the picture).
I'm actually surprised you didn't take a solo picture for it :p
I took a quick one, but forgot to take a decent one. Of course I realised only after placing everything properly.
Looks really good. I still have mine unbuilt. I bought this because I thought the colors are really unique.I took a quick one, but forgot to take a decent one. Of course I realised only after placing everything properly.
I built the Bandai AT-ST yesterday and weathered it today. I used Tamiya on the feet and ports, so I'm happy with the mud and soot, but I tried Nuln oil on the body and it doesn't look great. Too streaky and fake, instead of dirty. Does anyone have any tips on how to get a dirty look across a broad, flat area?
OP
OP
I've been away from this thread (and modelmaking in general) due to some work-related travel. I'm looking forward to getting back into it now that I'm back. The trip included a visit to Hong Kong (before the recent escalations of the situation there) so I also managed to pick up some kits I've been eyeing for a while:
This should keep me busy for a while.
Night Shift: I've only recently found out about this one, but it has some really nice videos that show a wide variety of weathering techniques. I've only really watched his Type 5 Chi-Ri build videos, which show off a ton of different techniques and how to combine them together.
Sergio Solo: Similar to the above. A variety of well-edited build videos with descriptions of how to do each step. Not as in depth, but I still find them very helpful.
lpj models: This one doesn't have a lot of videos, but I absolutely love his builds (the last two in particular I think look incredible) and the videos do a good job of showing how he got them looking like that.
Most of the videos above use enamel/oil paints for the majority of their weathering since their long drying times make them much more suitable for achieving a subtle, realistic look. I'm not sure if you have those (from what I can see, Nuln oil is acrylic) and I unfortunately don't know of any good tutorials using only acrylics. Also, I'm not sure which Tamiya product you used, but if it was one of their weathering master kits you can use them for more than just feet and ports (see this video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWKh8PDOxSg, for example). The results won't look as good as the more involved methods in the videos above, but it's a good start imo.
Idk if any of the above's really helpful. There's a ton of stuff in the three channels I mentioned above so they'll possibly be way too overwhelming. I definitely wouldn't recommend trying to do everything the videos show off at once, but picking out some of the simpler techniques should be a decent way to start. For example, the oil dot filters and pin washes shown off here, or maybe this oil contrast effect, or some chipping effects on that channel. Or just whatever looks cool to you.
I just really like such videos over simple guides that only show off 1 specific technique because they actually show you how different techniques work together to create something that looks really good at the end. Hopefully they'll at least be somewhat helpful.
This should keep me busy for a while.
Getting a realistic dirty/weathered look can be quite hard. Because of this, there's a ton of different techniques people use for weathering and making stuff look dirty. For me, I found that the best way to try and learn how to do it is by watching youtube build videos, especially ones where the authors show each step and describe what they are doing. Some example channels that I've found really useful include:
Night Shift: I've only recently found out about this one, but it has some really nice videos that show a wide variety of weathering techniques. I've only really watched his Type 5 Chi-Ri build videos, which show off a ton of different techniques and how to combine them together.
Sergio Solo: Similar to the above. A variety of well-edited build videos with descriptions of how to do each step. Not as in depth, but I still find them very helpful.
lpj models: This one doesn't have a lot of videos, but I absolutely love his builds (the last two in particular I think look incredible) and the videos do a good job of showing how he got them looking like that.
Most of the videos above use enamel/oil paints for the majority of their weathering since their long drying times make them much more suitable for achieving a subtle, realistic look. I'm not sure if you have those (from what I can see, Nuln oil is acrylic) and I unfortunately don't know of any good tutorials using only acrylics. Also, I'm not sure which Tamiya product you used, but if it was one of their weathering master kits you can use them for more than just feet and ports (see this video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWKh8PDOxSg, for example). The results won't look as good as the more involved methods in the videos above, but it's a good start imo.
Idk if any of the above's really helpful. There's a ton of stuff in the three channels I mentioned above so they'll possibly be way too overwhelming. I definitely wouldn't recommend trying to do everything the videos show off at once, but picking out some of the simpler techniques should be a decent way to start. For example, the oil dot filters and pin washes shown off here, or maybe this oil contrast effect, or some chipping effects on that channel. Or just whatever looks cool to you.
I just really like such videos over simple guides that only show off 1 specific technique because they actually show you how different techniques work together to create something that looks really good at the end. Hopefully they'll at least be somewhat helpful.
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I've been away from this thread (and modelmaking in general) due to some work-related travel. I'm looking forward to getting back into it now that I'm back. The trip included a visit to Hong Kong (before the recent escalations of the situation there) so I also managed to pick up some kits I've been eyeing for a while:
This should keep me busy for a while.
Getting a realistic dirty/weathered look can be quite hard. Because of this, there's a ton of different techniques people use for weathering and making stuff look dirty. For me, I found that the best way to try and learn how to do it is by watching youtube build videos, especially ones where the authors show each step and describe what they are doing. Some example channels that I've found really useful include:
Night Shift: I've only recently found out about this one, but it has some really nice videos that show a wide variety of weathering techniques. I've only really watched his Type 5 Chi-Ri build videos, which show off a ton of different techniques and how to combine them together.
Sergio Solo: Similar to the above. A variety of well-edited build videos with descriptions of how to do each step. Not as in depth, but I still find them very helpful.
lpj models: This one doesn't have a lot of videos, but I absolutely love his builds (the last two in particular I think look incredible) and the videos do a good job of showing how he got them looking like that.
Most of the videos above use enamel/oil paints for the majority of their weathering since their long drying times make them much more suitable for achieving a subtle, realistic look. I'm not sure if you have those (from what I can see, Nuln oil is acrylic) and I unfortunately don't know of any good tutorials using only acrylics. Also, I'm not sure which Tamiya product you used, but if it was one of their weathering master kits you can use them for more than just feet and ports (see this video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWKh8PDOxSg, for example). The results won't look as good as the more involved methods in the videos above, but it's a good start imo.
Idk if any of the above's really helpful. There's a ton of stuff in the three channels I mentioned above so they'll possibly be way too overwhelming. I definitely wouldn't recommend trying to do everything the videos show off at once, but picking out some of the simpler techniques should be a decent way to start. For example, the oil dot filters and pin washes shown off here, or maybe this oil contrast effect, or some chipping effects on that channel. Or just whatever looks cool to you.
I just really like such videos over simple guides that only show off 1 specific technique because they actually show you how different techniques work together to create something that looks really good at the end. Hopefully they'll at least be somewhat helpful.
Thanks a bunch for finding these! I'll have to check them out.
HLJ are having a sale on a bunch of kits, including Gunpla. I highly recommend the HiRM Astray Noir.
https://www.hlj.com/1-100-scale-hi-resolution-model-gundam-astray-noir-bans57697
https://www.hlj.com/1-100-scale-hi-resolution-model-gundam-astray-noir-bans57697
Finished my Earthree Gundam. I like it more than I expected😁 I think I will get the rest of the Rerise Core gundam+Armour kits.
The core gundam is really small, like slightly taller than a Haro on a stand.
I gloss coat the armour and coloured parts while most of the core gundam is matt.
Panel lined with copic multiliners.
I'm not sure if I would actually remove the armour that often as I'm afraid I might break the armour pieces, especially the blue piece on the head.
More images here
The core gundam is really small, like slightly taller than a Haro on a stand.
I gloss coat the armour and coloured parts while most of the core gundam is matt.
Panel lined with copic multiliners.
I'm not sure if I would actually remove the armour that often as I'm afraid I might break the armour pieces, especially the blue piece on the head.
More images here
I extended by the cylinders by gluing some extra plastics with extra thin cement and it didn't work out in the end: the extra part was sent out flying out of the piece when I tested the articulation...
I kept it as it is and I just have to be extremly careful when adjusting the articulation of this leg.
Current progress so far, I handpainted most of the inner frame in metallic silver and started to build the external armor.
I extended by the cylinders by gluing some extra plastics with extra thin cement and it didn't work out in the end: the extra part was sent out flying out of the piece when I tested the articulation...
I kept it as it is and I just have to be extremly careful when adjusting the articulation of this leg.
Current progress so far, I handpainted most of the inner frame in metallic silver and started to build the external armor.
Looks good so far. Most of mine are static once I've found a pose that I am happy with anyway :p
Just finished today's build, lotta of stickers but I didn't have the right colors to paint and it is
Heats begins to play
Shin Getter! This line is pretty awesome although the scale means certain parts have to be stickers.... sigh I want a non prebuilt classic getter kit... I think shin has one but it's older
And of course had to take a picture of the big 3 I have
the sdcs Gaogaigar will be mine! Once it releases and the price has regularized. Also still need the actual Mazinger Z and Mazinkaizer
Heats begins to play
Shin Getter! This line is pretty awesome although the scale means certain parts have to be stickers.... sigh I want a non prebuilt classic getter kit... I think shin has one but it's older
And of course had to take a picture of the big 3 I have
the sdcs Gaogaigar will be mine! Once it releases and the price has regularized. Also still need the actual Mazinger Z and Mazinkaizer
HLJ, I love to buy stuff from you guys but your Ajax based shopping cart has proved to be inadequate for instances when it's being hammered by a big number of customers.
After receiving a newsletter mail for the Black Friday sale, I stayed up until 2:00 AM (local) when it started. I took 15 minutes to decide what interested me and then spent the next 15 minutes battling the shopping cart.
Items appeared without the sale discount in the checkout process and trying to remove and re-add them to see if it fixed things was painfully slow.
At 2:30 AM and with at least one item becoming out of stock in the interim I concluded I had no time for such things and I decided to go to sleep and maybe try the following morning.
The end result is that today I only spent 2,000 yen of the 8,000 I had in the cart last night. On the one hand, no harm done to HLJ because sold out items are sold items regardless of who bought them, on the other hand, I just decided that for the RG Tallgeese (which is still in stock) I can wait for a better sale given that I already have the MG in the backlog.
After receiving a newsletter mail for the Black Friday sale, I stayed up until 2:00 AM (local) when it started. I took 15 minutes to decide what interested me and then spent the next 15 minutes battling the shopping cart.
Items appeared without the sale discount in the checkout process and trying to remove and re-add them to see if it fixed things was painfully slow.
At 2:30 AM and with at least one item becoming out of stock in the interim I concluded I had no time for such things and I decided to go to sleep and maybe try the following morning.
The end result is that today I only spent 2,000 yen of the 8,000 I had in the cart last night. On the one hand, no harm done to HLJ because sold out items are sold items regardless of who bought them, on the other hand, I just decided that for the RG Tallgeese (which is still in stock) I can wait for a better sale given that I already have the MG in the backlog.
Yes their site can be quite a disaster at times. I saw some items that were on sale but seem to still be at their normal prices from before. Maybe I'll take a look again.
This can be the case typically when an item was previously in stock but is now out of stock or being restocked. It's still listed as part of the sale but it is no longer purchasable at the sale price.
If the item is in stock, then it could be a a temporary error. Or maybe it was on sale, got out of stock (thus ending its sale price) and then got restocked causing it to be listed as part of the sale, be in stock yet be listed at regular price.
I don't know, man, I just want to buy some plastic to build cool robots. :P
Nice! I want Gaogaigar but I'm waiting for him to hit us retail in the next month or so, when prices stabilize so I can order it quick and easyToday's haul (and I preordered RG Eva DX, RIP):
