You and me both, though I'll have to wait till April/May unfortunately.
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Plastic Scale Modelling |OT| Gunpla and Everything Else
- Thread starter erd
- Start date
Almost done with my RG Nu Gundam. Still need to panel line it and top coat it which will be done in about 2 weeks.
I was expecting much more fully undergated parts, even if I was cleaning up everything.
Despite my issue with one of the knee/pipe articulation, I'm quite happy with the kit. My key takeaway for next time: don't be lazy and just paint the whole inner frame instead of parts of it in order .
I was expecting much more fully undergated parts, even if I was cleaning up everything.
Despite my issue with one of the knee/pipe articulation, I'm quite happy with the kit. My key takeaway for next time: don't be lazy and just paint the whole inner frame instead of parts of it in order .
In almost every case undergating is only used in shiny parts (gold, chrome etc.) certain clear parts (most of the time they won't) and certain pieces where a very tight fit is essential (even rarer than the clear part stuff).
So its mostly for shiny coated parts.
Cases where this doesn't happen:
- A non shiny kit that is a variant of a shiny kit: e.g. Mega Shiki which is based on the Delta Gundam kit inherited its undergated trees from its gold plated parent.
- A shiny kit that is a variant of a non shiny kit: e.g. MG Phenex is gold but most of its armor parts come from the regular Unicorn so they are not undergated.
I picked up some HGs and a set of Gundam Markers from my local Barnes and Noble today. I'm really excited to get started on them
Finished my Super Minipla Kakure Daishogun/Ninja Megazord. This thing looks morphenomenal awesome!
Album with more images: https://imgur.com/a/GGHiU2o
And, if anyone's curious, yes, it fits in Titanus so you can make that one thing that was exclusive to Power Rangers (it obviously never showed up in Kakuranger) and was only ever used once: Ninja Ultrazord.
...I'm gonna have to get the Shogun Megazord now, aren't I.
Album with more images: https://imgur.com/a/GGHiU2o
And, if anyone's curious, yes, it fits in Titanus so you can make that one thing that was exclusive to Power Rangers (it obviously never showed up in Kakuranger) and was only ever used once: Ninja Ultrazord.
...I'm gonna have to get the Shogun Megazord now, aren't I.
I don't know if anyone remembers my struggles with trying to paint some Gunpla. Since I haven't given up on the idea quite yet, I was thinking of getting some primer (in a can). Would that be enough to use the paint I have (which I had a hard time making "stick" to the surface before)? I would still need to make some tests on thinning and the like, to understand how to make it stick better in general, but I don't know if I should bother with primer when the paint itself doesn't seem great for plastic (though it should be, so I may be the issue here).
On another note, I'm considering getting a Warhammer set, with three miniatures and about six bottles of paint to try that out. It seems like a fun time, and it's quite cheap (it seems cheap at least).
On another note, I'm considering getting a Warhammer set, with three miniatures and about six bottles of paint to try that out. It seems like a fun time, and it's quite cheap (it seems cheap at least).
Priming DEFINITELY helps. The whole purpose of primer is to give the paint something to grab onto, as primer is very porous when it dries.
Make sure you soak your parts (do this while they are still on the runners) in a bucket or small tub (or your bathroom sink, etc) in water with a couple of drops of dish soap in it. Agitate the mixture a bit, then put in the runners. Leave them in there for a bit (i usually do overnight), then remove and rinse then pat dry with a towel and allow the pieces to air dry to get all the water out. You do this to remove any mold release agent that might still be on the parts before priming.
Cut/sand/etc your pieces as normal, then stick em on alligator clip sticks to hold em while priming/painting
Use a grey primer - white primer works better with lighter or pearlescent colors, but grey works well with just about everything.
You don't have to use expensive model primer, lots of people just use Krylon in a can.
When you spray the primer, dont hold the can too close and make sure you spray in strokes. DO NOT SPRAY WITH THE CAN STATIONARY. Always keep that can moving back and forth when you spray. if you don't, you will lay the primer on way too thick and it'll be ruined. back and forth in smooth motions.
There's several how-tos on priming and painting gunpla out there, just google.
Thanks a lot for the tips. I did know that that's the point of priming, but I was a bit unsure about the paint I have, which didn't seem of great quality (it's probably good for painting, I'd imagine). Or maybe I'm just bad, I'll have to practice more. I kept some pieces from various runners to make some tests.
Disposable plastic spoons are ideal to test anything you are going to do to your model when painting without the risk of ruining your expensive kits.
That's also a good idea, I have seen people do it in YouTube videos but never thought of trying it out.
To be honest, I'm sure I have those sprues, I'm not confident I have plastic spoons at home.
Are these Cross Silhouette?
I'm never too sure on what are the pros and cons of the various SD lines like BB Senshi, EX Standard and Cross Silhouette.
I'm never too sure on what are the pros and cons of the various SD lines like BB Senshi, EX Standard and Cross Silhouette.
Hey, everyone! I built my first two models yesterday, a pink Haropla and a RX-78-2 Building Experience Version. I like both, but they took about 2 hours each, which kind of disappointed me (I really love the actual building process, it's very relaxing imo.) Does anyone have any recommendations for things that would be around my level (I assume I can probably only handle HGs for now) that would take a good long while to build? Thanks! :)
Sdcs series is great and beginner friendly and even has a non Gundam line with the mazingers, shin getter and Gaogaigar. If you don't mind the extra price and like power rangers the minipla megazord line could be an option
I just googled the RX-78-2 Building Experience and it seems like it is a simplified HG. My advice is to look for an actual HG that is on the bigger side. Big HG usually (but not always) mean more pieces and a longer (but not necessarily more complicated) build than a smaller HG.
Examples of big HGs that mean more pieces are Kshatriya, Penelope, the Narrative Gundam with A Packs, Full Armor Unicorn...
Keep in mind that big HGs mean expensive HGs. A Revive RX-78-2 which is a modern but affordable HG costs 1,000 yen but those I listed can go from 4,000 to 7,000 yen.
Your priority should be to build something you like the look of. You can always ask here if a kit that catches your eye is worth it.
The alternative is moving to RG. They are not particularly difficult. They demand much more patience (not a problem for you) and being more careful with a bunch of tiny pieces and a lot of marking stickers (up to you if you want to step up). Plenty of people in this thread have moved into RG just after one or two HGs.
LBX Val Diver
With this, my Danball Senki backlog is finished. I doubt I'm ever going to get more of these. Initially, I bought them to gauge my nephew's interest on plastic models with the idea of building them together. However, I ended building most of these by myself because he didn't look like he cared that much. He does enjoy looking at my finished gunpla kits but that's it.
And the Jenock Platoon set is finished.
With this, my Danball Senki backlog is finished. I doubt I'm ever going to get more of these. Initially, I bought them to gauge my nephew's interest on plastic models with the idea of building them together. However, I ended building most of these by myself because he didn't look like he cared that much. He does enjoy looking at my finished gunpla kits but that's it.
And the Jenock Platoon set is finished.
Yes they are and it only took me arounde 40-1 hour to finish both kits. I wish the Criss lines would get builder parts, only add ons its getting are optional booster parts.
Don't fret about moving to a grade with a higher part count. The skills needed aren't appreciably different from line to line. The biggest step up for an RG will be the smaller parts and lots of marking stickers (optional, but I love them), while an MG is going to have the detailed inner frame.
If you really want to figure out bang for your buck in terms of build time, you can check this part count spreadsheet to see just what you're getting into.
What do you assume you lack that prevents you from building something more than a HG? The biggest challenge is just time, so if you want a longer build go beyond HG. It's not hard.
Most of the time, people don't start on a MG for fear of fucking up a 5,000 yen kit because of lack of experience when they can get their chops with a 1,000 kit without worry.
In that sense, RG fills a very nice range where you can generally get a modern complex kit for an RRP of 2,500 yen.
While it is true that the skills needed for a MG aren't different than those for an HG and all you need is more patience and care, beginners won't actually believe you and the safety net of testing the waters without risking too much money will always be tempting.
In that sense, RG fills a very nice range where you can generally get a modern complex kit for an RRP of 2,500 yen.
While it is true that the skills needed for a MG aren't different than those for an HG and all you need is more patience and care, beginners won't actually believe you and the safety net of testing the waters without risking too much money will always be tempting.
Any Zoids fans in here? :0
Me me me! Almost bought the gold version of that one. Nice build.
Well, considering that all I've built so far are two very cheap and very simple kits, I am just being very cautious about getting in over my head. From the other discussions here, I think I probably could handle a RG or even a cheaper MG now, but I think I'll try 2-3 more HGs beforehand. My ultimate goal is to be able to do the EVA-01 RG when that comes out, so I think being able to work up to that point would be nice.
I'd say you should tell us what Mobile Suits you like and we can tell you the kits that might suit you best.
Dunno if it helps, but I only built 2 HGs before I did my first MG (Freedom Gundam).
Of course this was in 2006 so (most) MGs weren't as complex as they are now.
Of course this was in 2006 so (most) MGs weren't as complex as they are now.
They aren't all more complex, the new tech in modern MGs are good.
MG GM Sniper 2 is a joy to build, much easier than the old (G Gundam, etc) MGs that require screws.
To be honest, I am largely unfamiliar with most mobile suits (at least by name) because I never watched a lot of any of the shows, but I can definitively say that I tend to like the Zakus, Acguys etc. The more bulky robot-y designs appeal to me more than the tech samurai thing most of the actual Gundams have going on. I also like a lot of the cute designs like Haros and Bearguys but don't think I'll build more of them (apart from the Mobile Haro). I'm sorry if my responses haven't been especially helpful, I still don't know a lot.
Hearing other people have moved to RG and MGs quickly does soothe my anxiety a bit, thank you. I still think I'll do some HGs first, just because my first kits were so simple, but it makes me feel a little better about diving further than that, lol.
If you build a HG Zaku, I'd avoid the older ones from the late 90s and early 00s. I'd recommend either getting any of the Zakus from "The Origin" line (which one is up to you, all seem good) or if you want bulkier ones you could go to the slightly more expensive HG Zakus from Thunderbolt.
There's also the Zaku F2000 from Gunpla Builders even though it is a bit older and it might be harder to find in stock.
I built my first MG before I ever built a HG. I started with a Mega Size, though, which is like a big HG, just more expensive. :P
In fact, the list of the first gunpla kits I built until getting to a MG is kind of unusual:
There's also the Zaku F2000 from Gunpla Builders even though it is a bit older and it might be harder to find in stock.
I built my first MG before I ever built a HG. I started with a Mega Size, though, which is like a big HG, just more expensive. :P
In fact, the list of the first gunpla kits I built until getting to a MG is kind of unusual:
- Mega Size Char's Zaku
- Mega Size RX-78-2
- 1/400 Alpha Azieru
- MG V-Dash Ver.Ka
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I would recommend a HG Prototype Guntank from Origin, and the RG Char Zgok. The MG Acguy is also really really good.
OP
OP
I wanted to do a relatively quick build over the last couple of days, so I decided to build one of the Bandai Star Wars kits I picked up recently. Specifically, this one:
Out of the box, the kit was surprisingly disappointing. It's essentially the R2-D2 kit with a new head. This makes sense but means that there's barely any green plastic, so the end result (without stickers) is underwhelming:
All the green stripes are just stickers, which are a pain to apply and often go over panel lines. I tried putting some of them on just to see how they would look and the result was not great. On top of that, there's a bunch of other annoying details. There's two very noticeable seam lines on the head that are a pain to get rid of, the head parts have huge connections to the sprue which leave behind needlessly large nubs, and the silver parts aren't chrome-plated. Not that I'd expect them to be given the price, but it would have looked awesome if they were. The pipes on the legs are also aren't great.
None of that really matters much when painting the kit though. Even some simple painting massively improves how the model looks:
I wanted to get this one done relatively quickly so all I really did was some black-basing, followed by the base coat and the green stripes, plus some handpainting for the metallic details. There's no real weathering, no panel-lining and no topcoat. I don't know if I'll go back and add any of those things the future but I think it looks good enough even without them, so probably not.
Here's a before and after shot, for comparison:
And some more pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/4szXVAN
I'm not sure I'd recommend this kit to anyone who doesn't plan to paint it (mainly due to the stickers) but with painting it's a great little kit.
Out of the box, the kit was surprisingly disappointing. It's essentially the R2-D2 kit with a new head. This makes sense but means that there's barely any green plastic, so the end result (without stickers) is underwhelming:
All the green stripes are just stickers, which are a pain to apply and often go over panel lines. I tried putting some of them on just to see how they would look and the result was not great. On top of that, there's a bunch of other annoying details. There's two very noticeable seam lines on the head that are a pain to get rid of, the head parts have huge connections to the sprue which leave behind needlessly large nubs, and the silver parts aren't chrome-plated. Not that I'd expect them to be given the price, but it would have looked awesome if they were. The pipes on the legs are also aren't great.
None of that really matters much when painting the kit though. Even some simple painting massively improves how the model looks:
I wanted to get this one done relatively quickly so all I really did was some black-basing, followed by the base coat and the green stripes, plus some handpainting for the metallic details. There's no real weathering, no panel-lining and no topcoat. I don't know if I'll go back and add any of those things the future but I think it looks good enough even without them, so probably not.
Here's a before and after shot, for comparison:
And some more pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/4szXVAN
I'm not sure I'd recommend this kit to anyone who doesn't plan to paint it (mainly due to the stickers) but with painting it's a great little kit.
The HG Origin Zakus are fantastic. The line also includes the Dom Test Type and the Guncannon Firepower/Mobility Test Type, both of which are very robotty and are some of my favorite designs ever.
Let me try and help out with visualization of some of my recommendations:
HG Origin Guntank
I didn't know that I needed to build a Guntank until this picture.
I cannot comment first hand on the Guntank from The Origin but about the other two, I can confirm that the MG Acguy looks like that picture out of the box except the monoeye that I believe has been painted instead of using the provided sticker.
However, the RG Z'Gok does not exactly look like that out of the box. The RG line generally looks great without any painting but that one has a bunch of parts that have been detailed up.
Unpainted HG Guntank (by Whistler)
Unpainted RG Z'Gok (by Cymbal Head)
Unpainted MG Acguy for comparison (by me)
However, the RG Z'Gok does not exactly look like that out of the box. The RG line generally looks great without any painting but that one has a bunch of parts that have been detailed up.
Unpainted HG Guntank (by Whistler)
Unpainted RG Z'Gok (by Cymbal Head)
Unpainted MG Acguy for comparison (by me)
Hi, just wanted to check back in to thank everyone for their recommendations. I went to the local hobby shop today and ended up picking up a HG Sazabi. I think my next purchase once I'm done with that will be the Origin Guntank, and might get an Origin Zaku II as well, before moving onto RGs. Thanks for all the help!! :)
Been trying to work on my weathering recently, practicing on some of the cheaper kits in the stash before switching up to the Gundam. Airfix 1/48 Junkers Ju87R-2/B-2 Stuka ready to be sealed up.
Looks good. I often wonder whether I should spend time on stuff that's going to be barely visible or mostly covered (and my detailing is minimal with hardly anything further than panel lining).
Yeah, when it's all sealed up you can barely see it but it's good practice at least!
I mean, it's an awesome build and all. But those hands kinda look "grabby-grabby molestor"
Really really late but I finally put Penelope in its dragon-looking flight form. Wasn't too bad to do, though it's pretty wobbly on that stand.
Also trying to decide what my last build of the year will be. Tied between the HGAC Sandrock and the Super Minipla Shogun Megazord.
Also trying to decide what my last build of the year will be. Tied between the HGAC Sandrock and the Super Minipla Shogun Megazord.
That looks like MG Wing Zero Custom's display base and it is indeed wobbly.
Every time I move that MG on the shelf the wings won't stop shaking for half a minute.
I wish Bandai would move to something sturdier as the included display base for kits that are too tall for the regular HG one (which is only sturdy by virtue of being really short).
Every time I move that MG on the shelf the wings won't stop shaking for half a minute.
I wish Bandai would move to something sturdier as the included display base for kits that are too tall for the regular HG one (which is only sturdy by virtue of being really short).
