The hell? I mean an analog stick is fine for smash and whatever else might use one but it won't really be worth it for traditional stuff, even with the octagonal gate.
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resetera Arcade Stick / Controller Thread
- Thread starter MarkMan
- Start date
The hell? I mean an analog stick is fine for smash and whatever else might use one but it won't really be worth it for traditional stuff, even with the octagonal gate.
I'm kinda glad I'm basically new and don't really care enough to need whatever advanced techniques in Smash that would require that stick...I've been playing fine with my normal 8-way stick and a 3 button config (special/smash/shield). Would be 4 buttons but couldn't get my head around having jump on a button, even though on a pad I use the jump button all the time.
Hmm just realized I haven't tried Ryu/Ken with the stick yet, couldn't get a hang of them at all when I tried with the joycons before.
I need to quit lollygagging and just install a Brook UFB in my old SF4 SE. I pulled my Fighting Edge PS4 out of its box for the first time in case I needed a stick on the go and it's so large it doesn't fit in my bag.
Anyone have any experience with the Brook retro board? Does it have any better support for TG16/PCE and SNES than the Cthulhu one does?
I'd be interested in trying to figure out what happened to your stick, because it would be a shame to leave it broken.
Failing a repair of the original board, I'd normally suggest swapping internal PCBs with a Brook PCB, but I'm not sure how nicely you can get that working with the PS3 FE; worst case scenario there is installing additional physical buttons to get Start and other buttons the FE places on the touch surface. They sell a PS3/PS4 PCB (intended to be as small as possible, but most resellers have plug and play solutions that attach to it), the PS4+audio PCB, and the UFB (that aims to be compatible with literally anything you can plug it into).
PS4 fighting edge, lol. It's not ps3 compatible, though.
Could always buy a brook adapter if you need it.
I get a "unknown usb device" message on PS3, if that helps. PS4 and PC, nothing.
I'd probably start by taking a multimeter to the inside USB cable connections and making sure they have continuity with the pins on the connector. Frayed USB cord is the most likely culprit in my mind, and that's a relatively easy fix.
sorry for the possibly stupid question: Are brook adapters safe now? I remember back in the day reading how they would bork your ports but people seem to recommend/use them pretty liberally now.
My PS4 MadCatz TE2+ died, the joystick wont respond to any input except for down, and only if I'm pressing X at the same time lol.
I have a 360 SF4 TE that still works so I was looking at a 260->PS4 adapter.
Thanks!
My PS4 MadCatz TE2+ died, the joystick wont respond to any input except for down, and only if I'm pressing X at the same time lol.
I have a 360 SF4 TE that still works so I was looking at a 260->PS4 adapter.
Thanks!
That was never brook adapters. Those were cronus max and another brand. Brooks are really widely used. I've got several adapters, their pcbs in my cab, and the wireless adapter for xbx controllers.
They're definitely safe.
I use both their yellow P3/P4 to P3/P4 adapter and a bunch of their internal PCBs. I've never had an issue other than the 8 minute timeout occasionally resurfacing whenever Sony decides they want to continue the little cat and mouse game they're having with Brook.
If you want to keep using your TE2+, it should be fairly trivial to install a Brook UFB inside it to continue using it adapter-free.
Thanks for the info guys! And yes the name Cronus Max rings a bell now lol. Got totally confused I guess.
I'll look into the Brook UFB. Looks like it doesnt need soldering? Thats where I fail when it comes to dealing with sticks haha.
That's correct. It uses screw terminals for every basic input; you'd basically just cut the existing wiring as close to the PCB you're removing as you can, strip the wire a little, and screw them into the appropriate sockets. The only Brook board that isn't solderless by default is the tiny PS3/PS4 board, but most resellers of it have their own add-on solutions for getting around that if that's the route you want to go.
My Hori fighting commander's D-pad is about to break free. Are there any recommendations for a new Fightpad?
Repeated crapped up Fighting Commander d-pads is what eventually pushed me to stick.
Sorry, that doesn't help you lol
Does anyone have a spare 5-pin joystick connector they'd be willing to sell to me? I need the connector on both sides. Missing my f500 and realized my jlf only had the connector on one end. Prefer not to splice and solder...
Edit: nevermind! Grabbed a pack of them on Amazon. Let me know if you need one!
Edit: nevermind! Grabbed a pack of them on Amazon. Let me know if you need one!
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I prefer Hori's Hayabusa stick to the JLF. Sanwa still has the better buttons, but Hori's buttons are pretty decent now too.
I'm looking to use a DS4 with my X1X and I'm just wondering what people would recommend using (CronusMax, Brook or something else I'm not aware of).
Definitely use a Brook. This one in particular shoudl cover you:
http://www.brookaccessory.com/detail/03946072/
If you're talking about the shaft cover and dustwasher yes, they do and are.
Yes, I was talking about the shaft cover. Not the dustwatcher though, but the actual plastic ball on top of the lever. When I grip it, I can spin it either clock or counterwise.
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Oh, no. The balltop should not move. If you can hold the shaft and spin the ball (no innuendo intended) and the ball can come off, you need to open the thing up and screw the ball on properly.
Alright, thank you. I'll try to fix it when I get home later today. If I'm unable to, I might just return it.
To be clear, it can spin, but if it can spin AND come off (i.e. unscrew) then that's a problem. If it just freely rotates without unscrewing, then that's normal (it's actually not the balltop, it's the shaft)
When it comes to stock spring only, I think I acutally prefer Sanwa, but both aren't bad.
Case-in-point for me came when I ended up replacing my previously mentioned Hayabusa Optical Silent stick with the Sanwa JLF Silent v3, thanks to ArcadeShock being open to doing the exchange after my Hayabusa Optical had issues with the last Sony firmware update (it was timing out on PS4). I had installed a 1.5lb spring into both my stock and optical Hayabusa sticks so that the stick didn't "bounce" to an opposite input after returning to neutral, and it was fine after that point. My stock spring occasionally would register opposite inputs upon return to neutral, didn't feel like the spring would prevent the stick from registering.
So I guess I have the opposite preference of JusDoIt , where I like the Hori Hayabusa buttons and the Sanwa stick, but that isn't to say that Hayabusa's not good. Just needed the spring mod for me and it was perfect, aside from the optical one causing timeout issues due to some super obscure issue in the last firmware Sony pushed to PS4 (this is according to Arcade Shock, who said Hori had become aware of an issue in the specific instance of people using a optical stick in the Hori Fighting Edge).
Anyway, I have a silent stick, its stock spring tension is great and it doesn't bounce back and register opposing inputs on returning to neutral. I'm a happy camper.
It spins, but it seems like it does not unscrew. I made a gif of it (sorry for the poor quality)
This is my first arcade stick, so I just want to make sure everything is okay.
Yeah, this may just be the shaft itself spinning. If you hold the shaft cover a bit and spin the ball top does it feel like the inside is moving? On that same note, you should actually be able to pull the ball up a bit while you spin it (again, no innuendo) and see the shaft a bit, if you can turn it and see the shaft moving you're fine. You can usually tell right away if the ball is loose or if the shaft is spinning.
This looks like it's fine. The stick is not intended to be completely stationary like you find with an analog stick in a regular game pad. There will be some spin due to the way the shaft is suspended in the stick's chassis. This will occur standard in any Sanwa JLF or Hori Hayabusa sticks that are available today, and the Razer sticks use Sanwa JLF joysticks.
Yes, it's like you described, the shaft moves simultaneously with the ball when I spin it.
Okay, looks like everything is fine then. Thank you everyone!
I recommend the Qanba Carbon as a decent, cheap PC arcade controller. Supports both X-input and D-input and the parts are easily upgradable to arcade-spec if you want to do that later on, too.
If you're looking for really small fight stick for portability, the Mayflash F300 Elite is $90 is a good choice. It has DInput/XInput support and comes with Sanwa parts.
If you want a mid-size stick, the Mayflash F500 is good as well. Same price as the F300 Elite, but uses knockoff Sanwa parts which, while not as good as the genuine article, are still comparable to other sticks in the $60-100 price range. The main selling points of the stick is it can be used across almost all current/prior-gen consoles & PC and it's very easy to swap out the stick & buttons with better parts.
Those are two models to look up, thanks.
https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-SWITCH/dp/B019MFPLC0/
Hmm how is the regular Mayflash F300?
https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-SWITCH/dp/B019MFPLC0/
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This Mayflash sticks seem quite moddable. Is there any info about input lag for them? I'm trying to get my first stick on the cheap side since everything's so expensive in Argentina (a RAP 4 is about U$S 250 here). So it's cheaper and easier to get a small stick like this one and maybe if it's needed use a Brook PCB.
Between the F300 and the Elite the only difference are the sanwa parts?
The only information I ever found online was a single Youtube video of a guy wiring an F300 and a fight stick using a Magic Stick M5 to the same light punch button in SFIV training mode. The M5 stick Ryu would occasionally counter-hit jab the F300 Ryu, so I'm guessing the F300 input lag is +8ms if the M5 is occasionally beating it. That said, I own a TE2+ and F500 and I've never felt a difference in responsiveness. YMMV if you're playing a game that has true 1 frame links like SFIV, but I think for anything other than really high-level play, the stock PCB is quite serviceable.
Yeah, the only difference between the normal and elite version is the sanwa parts. The parts themselves would run you the $30 difference in price, so unless you hate the color scheme on the elite, it's worth the price.
4Gamer.net just posted their Japanese review of the Razer Panthera Evo and it's incredibly in depth.
https://www.4gamer.net/games/023/G002318/20190118064/
https://www.4gamer.net/games/023/G002318/20190118064/
Is it cheaper to get an allfightstick case with all the buttons/wires/PCB in the long run? I'm also wondering if it's easy replacing the button panels to stick/hitbox style if I ever felt like switching.
If you want something that's not Sanwa or Hayabusa parts and would be swapping the board anyway, yes. Otherwise if you're on PS4 a HRAP V4 Kai (the newer one, which should be all that's around now) or similar would have you covered for PS3/PS4/PC. It's $150 normal price and can frequently be had for less. There are also a host of other options from Qanba, Razer, etc, that will all cost less than a full custom if you're not going to be changing anything from stock.
The Qanba EVO Drone has Sanwa parts and is mini sized but just large enough that you can use it comfortably. Perfect for travel and small areas. It's $99 now.