Is a 9" JVC TM-R9U worth $65? Is it worth anything? Too small? Not a good screen? I've been wanting to get a pro monitor for awhile but 9" seems too small.
thanks.
thanks.
Looks like its composite only which isn't great and at 9" you've got to sit really close to it, so I'd say you'd be better of with a good consumer TV with component/rgb inputs.Is a 9" JVC TM-R9U worth $65? Is it worth anything? Too small? Not a good screen? I've been wanting to get a pro monitor for awhile but 9" seems too small.
thanks. looks like I'll pass on it. I'd rather spend the money and get something good than save a few bucks and sacrifice better quality video.Looks like its composite only which isn't great and at 9" you've got to sit really close to it, so I'd say you'd be better of with a good consumer TV with component/rgb inputs.
That said small monitors do have a bunch of advantages like wieght, size, sharpness, etc, and some people really like them, so don't let me put you off if it appeals to you.
Ok, I bought a PSIO from Stone Age Gamer one year ago, I installed the switch board in my console last years and it didn't work. I couldn't install another switch board on another console until now, and only NOW I have the confirmation that my cart may be faulty.
Do you think is there any chance Cyberdyne could replace my cart?
Here where I am we have 2-years warrantry on every good, but I don't know how much I am covered under US (in case of Stone Age Gamer) or Australia (in case of Cyberdyne) law.
I am willing to pay to have it repaired, if that costs me less than a new cart.
I haven't got a Wii, so I could be dead wrong on this, but the rest of the internet advises installing an expensive hdmi mod or using a blurry and laggy (but cheap) Wii hdmi converter, so I might as well offer my unfounded opinion, which is... it depends.
The Wii Dual really is amazing, but it is either very expensive, or somewhat expensive and requiring really good soldering skill. I was able to install it in mine, but I don't think it's easy enough to recommend to anyone who isn't very comfortable with a soldering iron.
I had this weird thing while playing my Saturn where black elements of the screen would ghost. I thought it was a weird analog problem. It wasn't; It's my TV and it's showing up with the PC Engine Mini. God damn it. They don't make TVs with component on the back here anymore, not that I can afford one right now. : (
It's not terrible, and it doesn't cause my eyes to go out of focus like the PSP 1000's more pervasive ghosting issue, but ... : (
Could this be a sign it's dying?
*I turned all features off and it still happens.
Terraonion’s MODE (Multi Optical Disc Emulator) for both the Saturn (20 and 21 pin) and Dreamcast (v0 & v1)
Announced earlier today. €200 (VAT and import taxes are the responsibility of the purchaser) https://shop.terraonion.com/en/home/17-Terraonion_MODE_Dreamcast_Saturn_ODE.htmlwww.resetera.com
Hmm, I currently only use the AV3 audio input for dreamcast vga, so I've not got any experience with the AV1/2 audio input, although it does sound like that port is broken as it should just work if the switch is set to input.I finally got around to testing my OSSC with my Nintendo Wii with Component Cables + RCA to Auxiliary for sound. To my horrible realization, my unit seems to be processing audio only through the left channel. I'm using an RCA to 3.5mm adapter to connect to the port left of the HDMI connector. I've also tested this port with a seperate auxiliary cable directly to my phone, with the same result. I can confirm it's not my cables (I tested both cables directly to my speaker, and they work fine). I've also tried toggling the tiny switch + testing the other auxiliary port – no sound comes through at all upon doing this.
Is there something I'm missing? Or did my unit ship damaged? If it's the latter, I'm not sure what to do as I stupidly didn't test this until now (my unit shipped last December). 🙁
I finally got around to testing my OSSC with my Nintendo Wii with Component Cables + RCA to Auxiliary for sound. To my horrible realization, my unit seems to be processing audio only through the left channel. I'm using an RCA to 3.5mm adapter to connect to the port left of the HDMI connector. I've also tested this port with a seperate auxiliary cable directly to my phone, with the same result. I can confirm it's not my cables (I tested both cables directly to my speaker, and they work fine). I've also tried toggling the tiny switch + testing the other auxiliary port – no sound comes through at all upon doing this.
Is there something I'm missing? Or did my unit ship damaged? If it's the latter, I'm not sure what to do as I stupidly didn't test this until now (my unit shipped last December). 🙁
. Pre-order price including postage to any country is
USD$109.49
. Available countries listed below:
North America: USA, Canada, México
Europe: UK, Germany, France, Belgium, Nederland, Spian, Portugal, Italian, Danmark, Sweden, Finland, Norway, Porland, Malta
Asia: Korean, Japan
Oceania: Australia, New Zealand
Yeah, I'm wondering how that's going to work too. I'm guessing this should still have GBA compatibility?Oh...oh yes. Now this I will get and gladly mod into a DS.
Time to buy a cheap DS from Japan... when they can start shipping to the US again that is!
Any idea on how the touch screen will work?
I've been doing research into how to best set up a PlayStation 2. From my understanding it seems the upcoming OSSC Pro, component to hdmi, might end up being the best solution? My current TV is a 2015 LG 9500 series 4K OLED.
Is there another solution thats best for PS2 that's available now besides the Framemeister (which seems to now be discontinued and bit pricier than I'd like)?
On the progressive scan compatibility thing, my understanding is that a lot of TVs just didn't support it, you'd normally a expect a newer TV to be more likely to be compatible than an old one, but Goodmans were all about keeping the cost down and very few people would have used progressive scan at the time.OK, I have a silly PAL question which I guess is more of a curiosity than a problem I want solving: I have two basic CRTs which I had years ago, an under 20" Daewoo that I've had since I'd say the late 90s (the one before it broke playing Monkey Island 2 on the Amiga lol, so I had to put the game on hold for a while lol), and a 32" give or take Goodmans which was the living room TV in the early to mid 2000s. The Daewoo has been in my room all the time, and with the basic PS2 SCART, although I may have actually used the SCART that came with the PS1, it couldn't run in 60Hz, but with RGB SCART nowadays it runs 60Hz/progressive scan just fine, and the picture looks clear as anything. On the other hand, the Goodmans has always been able to do 60Hz, but with the RGB cables it goes all wavy when I try to enable progressive scan, and I'm just curious as to why?
The picture on the Goodmans isn't as good either. i thought it might be because it wasn't calibrated properly in terms of colour, contrast etc., but there seems to be colour bleed on green especially, so the green text and health bar on Maximo 2 sort of bleeds up a few pixels, and randomly sprite based games like SF Alpha Anthology look kinda muddy, but when you pause the game and it goes darker with a sort of sepia tone, everything looks pin sharp and really good. I tested against the basic SCART just to see if the RGB cable was screwy, but there was a night and day difference, it's just that it doesn't look as good as on the older, smaller Daewoo.
Also, Soul Reaver 2, which was the first old game I could see with no alternate display modes, looked great on it though.
On the progressive scan compatibility thing, my understanding is that a lot of TVs just didn't support it, you'd normally a expect a newer TV to be more likely to be compatible than an old one, but Goodmans were all about keeping the cost down and very few people would have used progressive scan at the time.
I'm a bit clueless on the colour bleed, as CRTs have a bunch of components that effect the image like that, but its always a good idea to check if its being effected by electro-magnetic interference from another device (i.e. speakers), to check this just move it away from other electrical devices and see if the picture improves.
Does anyone have experience with a B&O Beovision 1 CRT? I could get one for around 80€ and would use it for PS1/2 but don't know if it's worth it and I can barely find information about that TV online.
Remote is a Beo4 and the current owner says it has the same (or similar/comparable) firmware as a MX8000.Yeah, I have one. Great TV although I've not thoroughly tested it in every scenario e.g. light gun games. I've seen some MX owners having to remove the 'contrast screen' to get lightgun games working, might not be the case for the Beovision 1 though. Does it come with a remote? A remote is essential as it's the only way to turn it on from standby afaik, also you need it to switch from widescreen mode to 4:3, for some reason my Beovision would do that for all consoles plugged in via SCART RGB. If you're collecting it make sure you don't lay it down on the front of the screen whilst you transport it back home, I've read people have cracked it this way.
Supposedly the firmware of MX TVs plays a part in how good the image quality is, not sure if the same applies to the Beovision 1 sets, but I like the picture on mine, it needs a minor convergence tweak but overall it's good. The sound is amazing too.
Great that it's a Beo4 remote and not the Beo1. Umm mine had a security pin on it that I had to phone up B&O to get the code, luckily the owner had all the info for me to pass on to let them share the pin. I'm sure your owner would have mentioned if it had one setup though! There's a motorised stand that comes with it but even if it's broken it should still be fine to manually rotate. I guess make sure it's not scratched and you're happy with the picture? Maybe take a console with you to test it if you can.Remote is a Beo4 and the current owner says it has the same (or similar/comparable) firmware as a MX8000.
Anything else I should take at look at?
Thanks for the advice so far. The seller is apparently a gamer too so I guess I will ask him if I can test it with his systems :pGreat that it's a Beo4 remote and not the Beo1. Umm mine had a security pin on it that I had to phone up B&O to get the code, luckily the owner had all the info for me to pass on to let them share the pin. I'm sure your owner would have mentioned if it had one setup though! There's a motorised stand that comes with it but even if it's broken it should still be fine to manually rotate. I guess make sure it's not scratched and you're happy with the picture? Maybe take a console with you to test it if you can.
Thanks for the advice so far. The seller is apparently a gamer too so I guess I will ask him if I can test it with his systems :p
I will think it over again and then decide if I buy it or not. Kind of a no-brained considering the price since all bums/pvms are over 200€ in my vicinity and rather small too. I just need to find a place for it.
Okay, sounds good to me!Short answer: stick with your CRT
Slightly longer answer: The retrotink is at its best with 240p (i.e. 8 and 16 bit consoles), so you wouldn't be getting the most out of it.
I'll have to leave it at that, as everything else that can be said just leads to me rambling on for several paragraphs.
True, it definitely relies on the quirks of CRTs TVs to hide a few failings. Although I've been happy enough with the OSSC's handling of PS2, its certainly not as clear as the Dreamcast or even the Megadrive and I would imagine that the RAD2X is doing the best it can.Man even with the RAD2X cables, PS2 picture is still not great. :-/
How come they stopped producing the xrgb mini? Any particular reason? I still have mine but I'm mainly curious as to why they stopped.