Nice one, I've got the same case in White and almost the same GPU (Gaming OC Pro).
Judging by your avatar you're going to play Overwatch, right?
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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2
- Thread starter Soda
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Judging by your avatar you're going to play Overwatch, right?
I think you're going to seriously start feeling CPU-limited within the next couple years, so I would do a cheap-ish upgrade now and save that money for a later, bigger one. I'd go with a 1660 (maybe Ti) if I were in your shoes.
So my usb mouse now doesn't work after the fresh windows 7 install on the new SSD. What's interesting is that it DID work on the bios menu while I was updating it before doing the windows install :/. As soon as I started the windows installation, the mouse stopped working. It still works with other things, just not this new system. Trying to use just the keyboard to see what's going on and it says there are no USB drivers, no PCI drivers, AND no ethernet drivers so I have no connection either. Best way to deal with this ?
Edit : mouse doesn't work in safe mode, but I booted into the bios menu and it still works there. So only works in bios menu :/. wtf.
Edit : mouse doesn't work in safe mode, but I booted into the bios menu and it still works there. So only works in bios menu :/. wtf.
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Damn, that's rough. Do you have a disc drive? Maybe you can add a SATA drive from another system with the driver installers on it?
You're going to need another computer I should think. I would probably boot it with an ubuntu USB (use other computer to make it), use that to download drivers and save them on the (windows) desktop so they are easy to activate keyboard only once you boot back in to windows - it will be able to write to the windows hard disk partition. Or as mentioned, burn a disc and install that way if you can.
Is this installing win7 on a newer PC where it is unsupported?
Nice! I heavily considered getting the snow version, but figured the black would contrast better with my desk :)
And yes! For sure. I'm probably back to scrub mode and need to re-learn the game; I think we've had like 2 or 3 new hero releases since I last had a PC to play. Looking forward to jumping right back in.
i just hope the 2600X doesn't bottleneck the framerate too much at 1080p.
What does 80+ (White) means?
EVGA 500W W1
I saw this PSU at $45 on a local store and I was wondering about that label.
Also saw this one.
EVGA 500W W1
I saw this PSU at $45 on a local store and I was wondering about that label.
Also saw this one.
Maybe ? The mobo is this one MSI PERFORMANCE GAMING B450 GAMING PLUS AM4. Does AM4 just not install drivers when you install windows 7 or something ? What is going on ...
White is the bare minimum for 80+ requirement.
Unless they're sub $30 (and I'm using it in a budget build), I would avoid an 80+ white power supply.
Ah I see, I think I will get the Bronze one instead. I wanted a Gold Seasonic but I have to be realistic, I can't afford it right now.
Ah, yes. Windows 7 does not officially support Ryzen of any sort :( Same for newer Intel builds too IIRC, but I couldn't say where the line is on those, my guess is Kaby Lake.
What. ... wtf. (sigh) So what needs to be done to actually make it work ?
I think it has something to do with USB support on the motherboards.
It's an older article but it should still apply.
https://www.anandtech.com/show/11182/how-to-get-ryzen-working-on-windows-7-x64
Nope. Time to start over, my dude. You need a completely new build. Don't throw good money after bad with the old one. I was running the same processor and its time has passed, which was very noticeable on Battlefield 1 back in 2017.
Start watching sales and picking up pieces one by one as you can afford them. On the bright side, good budget graphics cards have been launched again, RAM has gotten considerably cheaper, and there are some great budget CPU options including the new Ryzen 3000s coming out around July.
Good Evening,
I'm just wondering if someone could help me out, I usually do all my gaming on console but I'm looking to hopefully start on PC very soon. I've customised a computer and here are some of the specs below. Please could someone have a quick look over them and give there thoughts before I purchase?
CPU: Intel Core i7 8700K 3.7GHz (4.7GHz Boost) Hex Core CPU
CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro H100i RGB Platinium 240mm Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASUS ROG MAXIMUS X HERO Intel Z370 Motherboard with Aura Sync RGB
Memory: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000MHz DDR4 Memory (4 x 8GB)
Case: Cooler Master MasterCase H500P Metallic Black Computer Case
Power Supply: Corsair RM750x 80+ Gold Modular Power Supply
Graphics Card: AMD Radeon VII 16GB HBM2 Graphics Card
Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I'm just wondering if someone could help me out, I usually do all my gaming on console but I'm looking to hopefully start on PC very soon. I've customised a computer and here are some of the specs below. Please could someone have a quick look over them and give there thoughts before I purchase?
CPU: Intel Core i7 8700K 3.7GHz (4.7GHz Boost) Hex Core CPU
CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro H100i RGB Platinium 240mm Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASUS ROG MAXIMUS X HERO Intel Z370 Motherboard with Aura Sync RGB
Memory: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000MHz DDR4 Memory (4 x 8GB)
Case: Cooler Master MasterCase H500P Metallic Black Computer Case
Power Supply: Corsair RM750x 80+ Gold Modular Power Supply
Graphics Card: AMD Radeon VII 16GB HBM2 Graphics Card
Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Just out of interest, why the Radeon VII and not the RTX2080 for just a little more?
The company whom will build the PC didn't offer the RTX2080. The Radeon VII is the best they had.
Making the jump from a 970 to a 2080 tomorrow when my new card arrives! Quite looking forward to what I hope will be a significant jump in performance!
So I've got a Corsair K65 keyboard, primary keyboard since mid-2016. Recently noticed: occasionally in Overwatch, I'll be pressing the "S" key, but not moving backwards. (I'll think I'm stuck on some geometry, but no, nothing behind me.) Releasing and pressing again it works. Happens every now and then.
Also seems like I have a higher chance of double-typing "s" when entering text lately. These are Cherry MX Red switches, so there's no click; sometimes it's easy to mis-key things while typing if I'm particularly rushed/sloppy about it. But seems like the s key is more prone to this now.
Is the switch going bad? I have another keyboard I can use, but this is the first mech keyboard I've used regularly, figured I'd ask.
Also seems like I have a higher chance of double-typing "s" when entering text lately. These are Cherry MX Red switches, so there's no click; sometimes it's easy to mis-key things while typing if I'm particularly rushed/sloppy about it. But seems like the s key is more prone to this now.
Is the switch going bad? I have another keyboard I can use, but this is the first mech keyboard I've used regularly, figured I'd ask.
Well this is rich. So like I was saying above, I got the fresh install of win7 onto a new SSD but it chose not to install any USB/ethernet or PCI drivers (possibly to gimp your win7 installation and force you to go buy windows 10 who knows). I was able to get to the desktop but of course there's no mouse function or internet connection. I put in the motherboard disc thinking I was an idiot and maybe that's why I don't have those drivers. But it runs me in a loop with the installer lol ! It says and I say this with no typos btw : "you need to install .net framework and some windows update" ... "some windows update" ?
I say next and it says installing etc, when it's done it says you need to restart, and to leave the disc in and when you restart it will auto open the setup to finish. I restart, and the same original message starts over "you need to install .net framework and some windows update" . It just does this forever and nevers installs drivers. Even navigating to the discs folders in safe mode, I click the exe and get "Load driver failed !". Honestly come on now. Now I have to look up reinstalling windows over again using a flashdrive program that adds things to the installation or something :/. What even.
I say next and it says installing etc, when it's done it says you need to restart, and to leave the disc in and when you restart it will auto open the setup to finish. I restart, and the same original message starts over "you need to install .net framework and some windows update" . It just does this forever and nevers installs drivers. Even navigating to the discs folders in safe mode, I click the exe and get "Load driver failed !". Honestly come on now. Now I have to look up reinstalling windows over again using a flashdrive program that adds things to the installation or something :/. What even.
I'm going to build a PC with my cousin as a graduation gift. What shouldn't I follow blindly:
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/SodaPC/saved/ZTBBbv
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/SodaPC/saved/ZTBBbv
Okay I have a cable extension question.
I picked up this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G3PSS82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Problem is, I need another extention for a second cable running to my motherboard. I assume that the 4(2x2)+4(2x2)/Male to 8(2x4)Pin/Female is one of the connections to the motherboard? Is so, what would I get for a second one?
Would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Premium-Sleeved-Extension-PH-CB8P_BW/dp/B01EZD9OKO/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3EEL6W409M7KR&keywords=white+and+black+cable+extensions+pc+4(2x2)+4(2x2)/Male+to+8(2x4)Pin&qid=1555109659&s=gateway&sprefix=white+and+black+cable+,aps,126&sr=8-6
I know they are different, but I cant find one which is the same Antec version .... I can only find the PCI-E versions ...
I picked up this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G3PSS82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Problem is, I need another extention for a second cable running to my motherboard. I assume that the 4(2x2)+4(2x2)/Male to 8(2x4)Pin/Female is one of the connections to the motherboard? Is so, what would I get for a second one?
Would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Premium-Sleeved-Extension-PH-CB8P_BW/dp/B01EZD9OKO/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3EEL6W409M7KR&keywords=white+and+black+cable+extensions+pc+4(2x2)+4(2x2)/Male+to+8(2x4)Pin&qid=1555109659&s=gateway&sprefix=white+and+black+cable+,aps,126&sr=8-6
I know they are different, but I cant find one which is the same Antec version .... I can only find the PCI-E versions ...
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You have a Ryzen, right? While I believe it should work with Windows 7, I can tell you from first hand experience, that the Intel Core iX 8xxx or newer do not work with Windows 7. As in: There are no supported USB drivers for the onboard USB-Chipset and getting the LAN to work is a bit of a work too.
My dad has somehow worn out multiple WASD mechanical switches in the last 4-5 years, so it's not unheard of. I think it's why replaceable switches have become more popular.
I went from a 780 to a 1080 Ti and was blown away by the performance difference. A 970 -> 2080 sounds like a similar leap (or even bigger if you include the added RTX benefits)
My current PC is from 2014 and it's beginning to show.
Here's what I have planned for the next build : https://pcpartpicker.com/list/zRnFV6
Three questions :
- will the GPU fit in the mini-ITX case ?
- did I chose a correctly sized power supply ?
- regarding RTX2080, are there superior models in this price range ? Or alternatively some to avoid ?
Here's what I have planned for the next build : https://pcpartpicker.com/list/zRnFV6
Three questions :
- will the GPU fit in the mini-ITX case ?
- did I chose a correctly sized power supply ?
- regarding RTX2080, are there superior models in this price range ? Or alternatively some to avoid ?
When are you planing to build? Current i5 may be a terrible bang for the buck in a few months after Ryzen 3 launches in June.
Also, since there's such a great deal on that Seasonic PSU going on for $50 right now on Newegg, even if you are planning to change things up later a bit; PSU are more or less constants unless you go up in wattage for higher end parts, so I would be tempted on buying it before the deal is gone.
Note that the NH-D15 just barely fits that case (cooler specs show 165mm to top of mounted fan, and case specs show max 165mm cooler height). Also the outside fan will not fit, as there's not enough clearance (32mm) for your RAM (44mm). You might be able to mount a smaller 120mm fan in the outside spot (the fan clips are designed for 120mm hole spacing). Or just get the single fan version, the NH-D15S, depending on the price difference if any. (The D15S is just slightly shorter at 160mm, but also fits an optional 120mm fan on the outside spot.)
- Seem like the card will fit.
Here's a picture of someone with a 289mm card (an Hybrid EVGA 1080 ti) in the H200 (The Gigabyte RTX 2080 is supposed to be 287 mm). He also has the Noctua D15. so it shows that both Should fit, but very tightly. The user complains about it being a pain to mount on that space.
- However, go for lower ram. Trident Z will have conflicts with the Noctua D15 Fans
- There's room for the PSU. NZXT says up to 311mm PSUs. The Corsair in your list should be around 190mm with cables
By May, that is just the Mid Upper rec in the OP Im open for whatever slots in!
Thanks guys I totally would have missed that. : s
What would you recommend, swap for thinner RAM or thinner cooler ?
And which ones would you recommend to swap for ?
Smaller ram imo. Since size doesn't affect performance for Ram, but does for the cooler.
To be extra sure, some of the lowest profile ram are Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT, and Corsair - Vengeance LPX
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Also I'm looking at the space underneath between the GPU and the PSU shroud, that seems small. Air flow can't be that great. I think that guy over the LLT Forum I referenced may have a good idea using a Hybrid card. They are considerably more expensive, maybe just too expensive, but seems like a decent solution for that case.
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Thanks, I'll go with Vengeance LPX which were actually my first choice before I was tempted by the lighting ones : o
Here's the result https://pcpartpicker.com/list/YNHLZR
I'll go price hunt all this tomorrow, do not hesitate to chime in in the meantime, I basically googled "best gaming pc parts" and went from that, my only constraint was a compact PC since I move it regularly.
I have a MSI X470 Gaming Plus and it POSTs SO FUCKING SLOW. I'll be playing around with A-XMP profiles later, but is there anything else I should look at? There's nothing in the BIOS related to fast boot. 20 seconds from button press to login screen seems real excessive for a brand new build with an NVMe drive
this is a bit bigger than the H200. But if you are curious here's a small case where you could go with an ATX board (but it's new so it may not be available in your territory):
edit: looks like Noctua D15 doesn't fit in this however. It is actually slimmer than the H200.
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I do have a Ryzen yeah. And yes you're right about the drivers but here's where I'm at : I actually got the USB drivers by making a bootable windows 7 flashdrive using a tool from Gigabyte that added the USB drivers into the installation. So at least I have a working mouse. But yeah I have no ethernet connection and am not sure what to do to just get everything up and running.
Completely unrelated to my previous question, I decided I am going to get a 2080ti. I am looking at this one currently any other thoughts?:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...VTVqGCh2aWAKbEAQYASABEgKabPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...VTVqGCh2aWAKbEAQYASABEgKabPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I am in the process of returning mine because of coil whine.
I have this coming tomorrow.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814932075
That one has a better rep? Edit, it sure does seems like the review average is better.
Also as long as we are on the subject what do you guys think about this monitor?:
https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-XB271HU-bmiprz-2560x1440/dp/B06ZXZ3QBD/ref=sr_1_2?tag=amazondn01-20&s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519831088&sr=1-2&keywords=Acer+Predator+XB271HU&th=1&psc=1
Hmm, now I wonder if I should just pull the trigger on a RX 580 4gb to get by until Xmas then. There is one near me $120 open box. Seems like if I am only getting a year out of it, a 1660 at twice the price isn't going to be worthwhile long term. Then again, I am thinking a 1660 will resell around xmas for a good recoup on price. Ugh. Decisions.
Eh, you'll be fine with the 580 I think. Thing with the 1660 is you really don't know how much it'll depreciate by then :/
I have been researching cases for my build recently and zeroed in on H500P mesh. AFAIK the original H500p has an acrylic front which restricts the airflow and was panned by many (for other reasons as well). You might wanna take a look into that (there's a white option as well which is what I plan to get) or the new H500 which is well reviewed too (and is 50 bucks cheaper)
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