Oh you got GSync though. That's awesome. I actually still havent upgraded to GSync yet.
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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2
- Thread starter Soda
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My friend has one for the past few months, though I haven't yet seen it in person. He said:
If that's any use to you!
It's such a good upgrade. I downsample most of my games so I can handle the lower res, but my ideal would be 1440 + gsync which is pretty expensive atm.
Just get a freesync monitor instead, it'll get you 90% of the performance without the gsync module premium.
Do any projectors support 1440p @120hz over hdmi?
I have a 1080p 120hz monitor but love to game on my projector (1080p 60hz) for certain games. I can get a native 4K projector but don't want to run at 4K for PC games. Ideally looking for a projector that will support 1440p resolution with somthing like 120hz and not look crap due to scaling.
I have a 1080p 120hz monitor but love to game on my projector (1080p 60hz) for certain games. I can get a native 4K projector but don't want to run at 4K for PC games. Ideally looking for a projector that will support 1440p resolution with somthing like 120hz and not look crap due to scaling.
Well the Water 3.0 was always a decent cooler. At least according to www.logicalincrements.com
As for this particular cooler. It's the newest version of the Water 3.0 AiO from Thermaltake, they introduced back in CES in January and Thermaltake said this cooler is not a replacement for the Floe series, they'll both continue to be sold. But Thermaltake also said that despite being cheaper than Floe fans, ARGB Sync fans are better.
The notable feature of this particular AIO is the Sync RGB feature which allows it's lighting effects to be controlled directly by stuff like Asus Aura, Gigabyte RGB Fusion, MSI's Mystic Light, or ASRock's Polychrome.
How it fares performance wise against the more expensive Riing Floe Premium AIO remains to be seen, but again all Pumps are made by Asetek, performance between each AIO isn't dependent on the pump, but more so how much air the fans can push out of the case.
I mean you slap a couple of Noctua fans on this thing. It naturally won't be nearly as pretty, but the performance would be pretty much top tier.
question on power supplies.
I have a 1yr old "evga 750w G3" power supply that seems to have a fan that ramps up when my computer has a certain power load. That's all fine and everything but the fan is very audible, even with headphones on.
I want to take the power supply out and see if it is the fan making the noise or if it is something else. I know how to turn the power supply on using a paper clip, but how do I put a load on it when it is out of the case?
fyi I have the "silent fan" switch turned off as that noise was annoying the hell out of me as well.
I have a 1yr old "evga 750w G3" power supply that seems to have a fan that ramps up when my computer has a certain power load. That's all fine and everything but the fan is very audible, even with headphones on.
I want to take the power supply out and see if it is the fan making the noise or if it is something else. I know how to turn the power supply on using a paper clip, but how do I put a load on it when it is out of the case?
fyi I have the "silent fan" switch turned off as that noise was annoying the hell out of me as well.
OP
OP
Maybe don't take it out! Open your case's side panel, get a large cardboard tube (like from a paper towel roll) and hold it near the PSU while under load (in your case) with the other end near your ear. Should be able to isolate and identify if that's the source without removal.
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I don't think I've ever seen 1440p support on a projector in my research. I understand most of the new gen 4K 4x pixel shifters can do 1080p/120, or were you looking at native native 4K? Probably you're going to have to run at 4K output resolution and turn down in-game render scale, this would have the same effect no?
How in the F- do I install a fresh Geforce driver nowadays in the garbage that is Windows 10? I've set Windows to not install drivers, yet after uninstalling old drivers and rebooting Windows downloads and installs an old one, which then blocks the latest one from installing after because "system is not compatible".
edit: OK, yanking the Ethernet cable was the primitive solution.
edit: OK, yanking the Ethernet cable was the primitive solution.
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So I decided to overclock my GPU today. I've had a mild overclock on it but wanted to see how far I could go.
It's a Power color red devil RX 480 8GB
I got up to 1375MHz and stopped going up. It passed all my tests (Origins, Odyssey, RotTR, Firestrike, Timespy, and Superposition.)
But if I start trying to increase the VRAM the card immediately starts to throttle down to the 1100MHz range and scores drop across the board.
Am I running into a power limit where increasing the VRAM pulls enough power that it's trying to use more than it's receiving and has to throttle to maintain stability?
It's a Power color red devil RX 480 8GB
I got up to 1375MHz and stopped going up. It passed all my tests (Origins, Odyssey, RotTR, Firestrike, Timespy, and Superposition.)
But if I start trying to increase the VRAM the card immediately starts to throttle down to the 1100MHz range and scores drop across the board.
Am I running into a power limit where increasing the VRAM pulls enough power that it's trying to use more than it's receiving and has to throttle to maintain stability?
How does this build look? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gHQPw6
It's one of the upper-mid builds from the OP with a few changes. I'm planning on using drawing software, FL Studio, Blender, and Unity.
I'm moving abroad in a couple of months, so I'm debating whether or not to build a desktop or just get a laptop, as a laptop would likely be more convenient. I just worry that a laptop in my price range might not do well with Blender and Unity.
It's one of the upper-mid builds from the OP with a few changes. I'm planning on using drawing software, FL Studio, Blender, and Unity.
I'm moving abroad in a couple of months, so I'm debating whether or not to build a desktop or just get a laptop, as a laptop would likely be more convenient. I just worry that a laptop in my price range might not do well with Blender and Unity.
OP
OP
I'd get an RX 580 8 GB over the 1060 3 GB. Same or lower price, significantly better performance (the 3 GB 1060 is not just a half-VRAM 6 GB 1060, but actually an overall lower-performing card).
I could be wrong as I don't use any of the software you're using, but I'm pretty confident that a Ryzen 2600 (same or cheaper than the 9400F) would be better for your productivity/creation-focused workloads. Maybe check some benchmarks to be sure. I'd say the 860 1 TB is fine, but for that price, you could get something like an SX8200 Pro. It's M.2 form factor (no cables), NVMe (much faster than the SATA III used in that 860 EVO), and still comes with a 5 year warranty. Here's a review of it.
You could also go cheaper, like a WD Blue (M.2) or Crucial MX500 (M.2). Those are both SATA III (speeds similar to the 860 Evo), but cheaper.
Thank you so much for all of the information! It's very helpful. I swapped out the parts that you mentioned on PCPartPicker, but it seems like the motherboard that I had before isn't compatible with that CPU. Do you have any recommendations for a different motherboard?
OP
OP
If you're using a full-size ATX case (which is what you have in your build), you can fit either an ATX or a mATX motherboard into it. mATX tend to be a bit cheaper and have fewer options for extra storage drives or graphics cards, but since you're sticking to a single storage drive and a single GPU, you have way, way more space than needed even for an mATX. However, if you're going to have a full-size case anyway, you might as well take advantage of the space and get a bit larger of a motherboard so you'll never have to worry about expandability down the road. With that said, the cheapest available right now is probably the ASRock B450 Pro4 for $70 (after a $10 mail-in rebate), and it will be perfectly fine for your use case - you could even overclock your CPU a bit and this board will be fine. If you find that you'd rather save a few bucks, grab an mATX board like the ASRock B450M-HDV R4.0.
As a note, the stock cooler with the Ryzen 2600 is very good for being a stock cooler, so you can use that without any need for something beefier.
I have the exact same PSU and I've never heard the spinning fan lol. I think you may have a case for RMA.
OP
OP
Your RAM might have a lifetime warranty. I RMA'd G.Skill RAM that started failing on me a few years ago and for brand new sticks for only the cost of $6 shipping the sticks out. Check before buying anything new!
Otherwise, try to get RAM that has a frequency of 3000-3200 MT/s and CAS timing of 14 to 16. Higher frequency is better, lower CAS timing is better. Here's a price sorted list: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/m...0&t=14&Z=16384002&L=140,160&sort=price&page=1
Hi all, does anyone have any experience with the Corsair 1000D case? I was looking into getting one and building two systems inside, but I'm not sure of all I would need.
I was thinking of a primary gaming rig and using the mini-ITX part as a streaming rig. I know an E-ATX and a mini-ITX system can fit inside, but I don't have any experience with building a mini PC. Would I only need a smaller motherboard and a smaller GPU for the streaming part of it?
My current gaming rig:
i9 9900K
Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB x4 DDR4 3200MHz
ASROCK Z390 Taichi motherboard
Corsair H150i Pro RGB
2x EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 (NVLink)
EVGA SuperNova 1600 T2
ASUS Xonar DGX 24-bit 96 KHz
Samsung SSD 970 EVO NVMe 250GB
Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB
Samsung SSD 840 EVO 250GB
Samsung SSD 860 Pro 2TB
Spare parts:
Ryzen 7 2700X
Intel i7 8700K
Noctua NH-D15
ASRock X470 Taichi motherboard
ASRock X399 Fatal1ty motherboard (never used since I was thinking of making a Threadripper PC awhile ago)
Corsair Vengeance 8GB x4 DDR4 3200MHz
EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW
EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC+
EVGA GTX 780 SC
Corsair HX 750i PSU
If anyone has any suggestions for the build, or suggested replacements on my current build, I'd be super grateful. Building PCs are fun, but I'd be the first to admit that I still have a lot to learn.
I was thinking of a primary gaming rig and using the mini-ITX part as a streaming rig. I know an E-ATX and a mini-ITX system can fit inside, but I don't have any experience with building a mini PC. Would I only need a smaller motherboard and a smaller GPU for the streaming part of it?
My current gaming rig:
i9 9900K
Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB x4 DDR4 3200MHz
ASROCK Z390 Taichi motherboard
Corsair H150i Pro RGB
2x EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 (NVLink)
EVGA SuperNova 1600 T2
ASUS Xonar DGX 24-bit 96 KHz
Samsung SSD 970 EVO NVMe 250GB
Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB
Samsung SSD 840 EVO 250GB
Samsung SSD 860 Pro 2TB
Spare parts:
Ryzen 7 2700X
Intel i7 8700K
Noctua NH-D15
ASRock X470 Taichi motherboard
ASRock X399 Fatal1ty motherboard (never used since I was thinking of making a Threadripper PC awhile ago)
Corsair Vengeance 8GB x4 DDR4 3200MHz
EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW
EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC+
EVGA GTX 780 SC
Corsair HX 750i PSU
If anyone has any suggestions for the build, or suggested replacements on my current build, I'd be super grateful. Building PCs are fun, but I'd be the first to admit that I still have a lot to learn.
Someone on the thread has mentioned they have one, I don't but from what I gather the 1000D seems to be more trouble than needed unless you want all that room for radiators.
I would be tempted to see if at Computex at the end of the month Phanteks gives us a date for the Enthoo Luxe 2, which strikes me a having a better use of space.
Thanks for the suggestion, I can definitely wait it out if it's for the better.
Not really needed right now. However, it may suddenly creep up to be necessary in the future. I remember when 8gb was more than enough but then seemingly overnight it became an issue (obviously an exaggeration, but you get the picture).
OP
OP
By the time it creeps up to the point it matters, I suspect you'll be on a new system using DDR5. I wouldn't do it for just gaming.
My rig won't turn on - a quick case removal & retry does this:
My MSI 1070 lights up for a second, makes a quick buzz sound and then... nothing happens.
I am going to try removing my GPU and restarting - any other thoughts? I hope this thing isn't broken :(
My MSI 1070 lights up for a second, makes a quick buzz sound and then... nothing happens.
I am going to try removing my GPU and restarting - any other thoughts? I hope this thing isn't broken :(
Without you mentioning the buzzing sound with the GPU, I would've placed it as a PSU or cabling issue. Is it a modular PSU? If so, replace the GPU power cables. Can you check the PSU works in another system, or swap it out in your current one?
I cannot for the life of me decide on which case to go with that will be best for airflow. I already returned 1 case and am thinking of returning this other one I got but haven't opened (cooler master h500) Any suggestions on a case with budget around $150? I keep poking around the Cooler Master H500P mesh in white but not sure.
My setup
- Ryzen 5 2600
- MSI b450 Pro carbon AC motherboard
- RTX 2080
- Hyper 212 Evo cooler
- 16gb ram
- 500gb Samsung evo ssd
- 3gb barracuda HDD
- 1440p 144hz monitor
My setup
- Ryzen 5 2600
- MSI b450 Pro carbon AC motherboard
- RTX 2080
- Hyper 212 Evo cooler
- 16gb ram
- 500gb Samsung evo ssd
- 3gb barracuda HDD
- 1440p 144hz monitor
So I put in a new GPU recently and have been getting stuttering in a lot of games, I was play Satisfactory with me friends and I kept complaining about stuttering and they were like "running fine for me!" Im thinking maybe I missed an important step? Or maybe the rest of my rig is bad/needs an upgrade?
They have 1070s
I have a 2080ti
Other specs:
i7-4790k
16 gigs DDR3
Z97-E Mobo
I feel like some games its struggling with and Im not sure why...
They have 1070s
I have a 2080ti
Other specs:
i7-4790k
16 gigs DDR3
Z97-E Mobo
I feel like some games its struggling with and Im not sure why...
My friend that I'm building a PC for actually decided he wanted AMD after the recent Intel news. Also would like the option to upgrade to Ryzen 3 if needed some day.
Not sure what kind of deals have been going on lately fo Ryzen, but Newegg currently has this combo deal going on and you can buy two $100 Newegg giftcards from Groupon that give you an extra $10 in credit effectively making the combo $220.
Also, would a hyper 212 evo be enough to OC the 2600 to 2600x clocks while keeping acceptable temperatures?
Not sure what kind of deals have been going on lately fo Ryzen, but Newegg currently has this combo deal going on and you can buy two $100 Newegg giftcards from Groupon that give you an extra $10 in credit effectively making the combo $220.
Also, would a hyper 212 evo be enough to OC the 2600 to 2600x clocks while keeping acceptable temperatures?
Did you do a clean reinstallation of your GPU drivers?
You could try playing one of the stuttery games with the Afterburner OSD on and see if the stutters correlate with spikes in GPU or CPU usage.
So I recently moved from Ireland to Australia.
I packed up my motherboard, heatsink, gpu, ssds, as safely as I could in my suitcase (antistatic bags, bubblewrap etc).
I gave away the PSU, case to a needy college student building their first pc.
Started buying the replacements now to see if everything still works.
Meshify C case, Corsair TX650M PSU.
I also bought new thermal paste as I was reading I should do a cleaning & reapplication when I am re-applying the heatsink?
Any other advice?
God I hope everything works.
I packed up my motherboard, heatsink, gpu, ssds, as safely as I could in my suitcase (antistatic bags, bubblewrap etc).
I gave away the PSU, case to a needy college student building their first pc.
Started buying the replacements now to see if everything still works.
Meshify C case, Corsair TX650M PSU.
I also bought new thermal paste as I was reading I should do a cleaning & reapplication when I am re-applying the heatsink?
Any other advice?
God I hope everything works.
Always re-apply when you rebuild. It's a good habit to refresh thermal paste in general.
I wouldn't think a Hyper-212 would be much of an upgrade over the included cooler, but I'm only guessing.
Could be one of many things.
Do you play in borderless? Switch to fullscreen.
Check your commit charge in afterburner. If it's spiking download a program called intelligent standby cleaner and have it running when you play games.
Are your ram sticks in the A2 and B2 slots?
Do something as simple as capping your framerate with RTSS.
Download the latest nvidia drivers and DDU. Disconnect your Internet, restart Windows in safe mode, run DDU. Install the new drivers, connect to Internet again. (this method stops windows from attempting to install basic drivers.)
How is your cpu usage?
Temperatures? Is your gpu being thermal throttled?
All drivers up to date? Bios, audio, chipset, gpu, and LAN are the essentials.
....
I'm all out of ideas.
From my cursory research the Hyper 212 is a bit better than the Wraith Stealth. Dunno if that's the specific version of the cooler that's being talked about here though. If it's the Prism it looks about on par.
Other than Satisfactory, which games are you seeing stuttering in? (and which aren't you seeing stuttering in?)
Have you tried a clean install of Windows?
Have you tried capping your framerate at 60fps in RTSS?
Also are you using Nvidia's vsync or the in-game vsync etc?
Does the stuttering change depending whether you're in borderless windowed or fullscreen?
Also what do you mean by stuttering? What feels like a constant uneven framerate (frame pacing issues)? Or random occasional stutters/pauses?
I have a 2080TI and had framepacing issues in some games until I installed RTSS and set the framerate cap. It's simply because the framerate is going so high - especially in older games - that even the Vsync or built-in framerate caps in games struggle to cope and present the frames evenly. RTSS and framerate cap instantly solves this issue and spreads the frames evenly so you get a silky smooth 60fps. Of course, perhaps your monitor refresh is 120hz and that could be causing the opposite issue, we really need more info.
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How do you feel about a phanteks p600s that can open and close the front panel, and leaving the front open for when you need maximum airflow?
Edit: Hardwarecanucks made a neat comparison between it and another airflow contender, the Fractal Design Meshify S2.
Hard to beat the dual 200mm fans of the Cooler Master H500P mesh though. I doubt either of these manage with their stock fans.
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Finally, after more than 5 years i am doing a completely new build.
Starting with the parts like the case, PSU and AIO cpu cooler, while waiting for the new AMD parts and new mobos to hit.
House was recently remodelled, and everything is mostly white and grey, so i am doing the PC in similar colored theme.
Anyway doing something like this:
Case: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C–TG White, already ordered 150 EUR.
PSU: RM750x White ~ 115 EUR
Mouse: Logitech G305 White 57 EUR
Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 SE 175 EUR
M2 SSD: Patriot 1 TB Viper ~ 180 EUR
Regular SSD: Patriot SSD Burst 960GB ~ 87 EUR
AIO cooler: Undecided between, Fractal Design Celsius S36, NZXT Kraken x72 and Ryujin 360 for ultimate tailored stlye, and maybe also an ASUS mobo with AURA afterwards. 150 to 250 EUR
Thinking of getting a 12 core 3000 Ryzen when it comes with the newest mobo, that you can either change the leds or has white elements.
And a white or with rgb leds 2x8 ram sticks atleast 3200 with 14 latency.
And then some expensive GPU, hopefully new RADEON cards will be usable and competetive. So ultimately style is just as important as quality and performance. Wont upgrade for another 5 years or so.
The room in question, excuse the mess, it was just "finished" the day i made the pic.
Chairs will be different, also, white mostly, with maybe grey, silver or black elements.
Probably will also have to get white headphones.
Starting with the parts like the case, PSU and AIO cpu cooler, while waiting for the new AMD parts and new mobos to hit.
House was recently remodelled, and everything is mostly white and grey, so i am doing the PC in similar colored theme.
Anyway doing something like this:
Case: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C–TG White, already ordered 150 EUR.
PSU: RM750x White ~ 115 EUR
Mouse: Logitech G305 White 57 EUR
Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 SE 175 EUR
M2 SSD: Patriot 1 TB Viper ~ 180 EUR
Regular SSD: Patriot SSD Burst 960GB ~ 87 EUR
AIO cooler: Undecided between, Fractal Design Celsius S36, NZXT Kraken x72 and Ryujin 360 for ultimate tailored stlye, and maybe also an ASUS mobo with AURA afterwards. 150 to 250 EUR
Thinking of getting a 12 core 3000 Ryzen when it comes with the newest mobo, that you can either change the leds or has white elements.
And a white or with rgb leds 2x8 ram sticks atleast 3200 with 14 latency.
And then some expensive GPU, hopefully new RADEON cards will be usable and competetive. So ultimately style is just as important as quality and performance. Wont upgrade for another 5 years or so.
The room in question, excuse the mess, it was just "finished" the day i made the pic.
Chairs will be different, also, white mostly, with maybe grey, silver or black elements.
Probably will also have to get white headphones.
I have a 165htz G sync 1440p monitor with the RTSS capped at 160.
The Stuttering is an occasional hitching that usually includes audio as well. I think I've seen in most games I've tried it in, Overwatch runs silky smooth for a bit then hitches slightly. I can't really see the framerate drop in RTSS when it happens. It hitches in Castlevania Bloodlines as well, that's only running at 60fps. And it's not the lag, that is entirely different feeling of slow down. Sekiro, exactly the same thing. Runs great then hitches. Satisfactory though is the worst, it barely runs at 70fps then chugs noticeably for a few seconds then comes back. Constantly. Lowering the resolution has affected it in no way whatsoever absolutely no increase in performance.
The stuttering doesn't seem to be effected by full screen.
I haven't clean installed windows but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it...
I thought I did a clean install, but I'm feeling like I must have made a mistake. I should probably re attempt it?
I'll try the afterburner thing as well to see if there is a correlation.
I'll try another clean install of the drivers using that method. When I turned on my computer with the new gpu for the first time it had a weird non native res thing going on that fixed itself when I installed the Nvidia drivers so maybe that's something?
I haven't check my bios stuff at all.
Never seen that case before, I will definetly look into it. I think now also I would pick the cooler master h500m (these names are silly using the same H500 in it) over the H500P mesh
Gonna get the case next and put these in. I won't be able to afford the GPU and CPU for a few months so it'll be fun to put the rest together. Going all SSD too.
Hey, looking to upgrade my CPU. Currently have an I5 4460 with an Gigabyte-GA-B85M-DS3H-A motherboard.
Looking to decent upgrade.
Looking to decent upgrade.
A used 4790K is the best you can hope for there, unfortunately. I wouldn't consider it significant personally, but it's one potential path.
You will have to replace the motherboard, RAM, and CPU in order to do anything significant. The motherboard you have only works with CPUs from that specific Intel generation (~2014) and the memory you have is DDR3. When you move to a newer motherboard it'll require DDR4.
Oh. Well, I'm willing to do an upgrade for everything else. What are some options?
Alright this might be a real dumb question but in general is every 1151 socket CPU compatible with any 1151 socket mobo or could there be older 1151 mobos that "can't handle" newer 1151 CPUs?
Asking for my brother who's trying to upgrade his cpu but whenever he looks at his mobo support website, under "supported CPUs" it only has up to a certain older Intel gen.
Just wanna make sure
Asking for my brother who's trying to upgrade his cpu but whenever he looks at his mobo support website, under "supported CPUs" it only has up to a certain older Intel gen.
Just wanna make sure
Kinda, someone correct me if I'm wrong
I've heard people run custom bios on their Skylake (X100) and Kaby Lake (X200) to run Coffee Lake CPU (9000 series), but of course that unofficially supported, don't know much about it, and if every MoBo is compatible or how risky it is.
But officially no, Coffee Lake doesn't pair up with Skylake or Kaby Lake.
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