The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2

eddy · Nov 17, 2019

Ganzlinger said:
I see. So, if I buy a 3200 memory stick it should work with it's full potential without need of overclock? Considering the CPU and motherboards aforementioned?

No. There is no "non-overclocking" way to get the full potential (speeds beyond 2666MT) here, you'll just have to accept that.

Don't worry about it. You boot, enter firmware setup and "Enable X.M.P" or "Enable D.O.C.P" and you're done.

If you don't want any overclocking, no matter how much of a technicality it is (and it is a technicality), then you're stuck at 2666.

DOT_mjo · Nov 17, 2019

Just switched to Ryzen after a decade with Intel, is there anything that I should be doing differently at all? Any software I should download and the likes? This is literally my first AMD purchase ever.

xyla · Nov 17, 2019

Soo, I just last week received a new PC. Set up everything and after some problems with the Game Pass, it's now working nearly perfect.
One thing bothers me though - on every fresh start, I have to push the reset button once because I don't get any image and it apparantly doesn't reach Windows level or even the UEFI screen. No idea what's happening here.

Any of you seen this kind of problem before?

Avis · Nov 17, 2019

(Canadian)

Considering pulling the trigger on this, don't even know how low it will be on BF/CM and it probably won't be that much less.

https://www.newegg.ca/amd-ryzen-7-3700x/p/N82E16819113567

LowParry · Nov 17, 2019

Hmmm. I'm starting to think there wont' be any sort of significant deals come BF/CM. Or am I just being too impatient?

Zeth · Nov 17, 2019

Should I get low profile ram like Corsair LPX if I want to fit them under a Noctua D15 with both fans?

inner-G · Nov 17, 2019

Ganzlinger said:
I see. So, if I buy a 3200 memory stick it should work with it's full potential without need of overclock? Considering the CPU and motherboards aforementioned?

You will probably just need to enable the memory's XMP profile to get it at 3200mhz

XR. · Nov 17, 2019

Zeth said:
Should I get low profile ram like Corsair LPX if I want to fit them under a Noctua D15 with both fans?

Yes.

Zeth · Nov 17, 2019

XR. said:
Yes.

Thanks

Should I look at any alternatives to the Meshify C? I prefer the looks of the NZXT H510 but it seems to run hot? Or should I not worry about that if I'm not planning to push overclocks hard?

evrythngwastakn · Nov 17, 2019

catpurrcat said:
Tell me about it, our prices are so high. Good to hear you were able to find a reasonably priced 5700xt.

Ehhh not a huge sale. $539 vs $559 msrp. But they're always short on stock and memory express is the only computer store in Victoria and they don't offer the pulse or red dragon model. So I figure any savings on those will be eaten up by shipping charges were I to order them online.

ngl kinda hoping a full sized 2070 super dips below $600 since I do wannatry ray tracing.

Dave. · Nov 17, 2019

Infinite Justice said:
Hello

A friend of mine is having an issue and i was trying to assist.

According to my friend they had started a game and not long after the screen went dark with some very faint red lines and the sound froze making a nasty feedback loop. They had to manually shut down the machine and once it powered up they could not longer see the login screen (the splash for the motherboard came up before)

While doing some trouble shooting i realized if you use safe mode it loads up and allows to log in fine.

But when attempting to update the graphic card driver (as safe mode uses the Microsoft Basic Display Adapter driver) it just ends up with the black screen again and the entire computer freezes (if something was playing sound it either goes away completely or it makes that terrible noise where the sound is stuck as something crashes it hard).

Tried installing some previous versions of the driver by disabling the adapter, logging in normally, run a clean uninstall, restart and then running the driver install but it does the same thing at some point during the install (it shows the progress bar then reaches a point where i guess the driver is being installed and then the screen goes black and it freezes).

The GPU is from AMD if you wanted that info

Read up online and it seems the GPU is on its way out but i will ask in here

Is the GPU preparing to go to a better place? :/

Tough to say if this is a graphics card issue - could be the monitor - but it's looking likely. Graphics card would certainly be first piece of hardware I swap out in a test, though I'd like to run a hdmi to a different screen first only because it's easy rather than a particularly likely fix.

senj · Nov 17, 2019

Ganzlinger said:
I see. So, if I buy a 3200 memory stick it should work with it's full potential without need of overclock? Considering the CPU and motherboards aforementioned?

DDR4 RAM marked as 3200 indicates that it's rated for a memory overclock of 3200. It won't "work to it's full potential without an overclock", the labelling is telling you what a safe overclock is. Without overclocking it will run at the standard DDDR4 speed, 2400.

Ganzlinger · Nov 17, 2019

senj said:
DDR4 RAM marked as 3200 indicates that it's rated for a memory overclock of 3200. It won't "work to it's full potential without an overclock", the labelling is telling you what a safe overclock is. Without overclocking it will run at the standard DDDR4 speed, 2400.

eddy said:
No. There is no "non-overclocking" way to get the full potential (speeds beyond 2666MT) here, you'll just have to accept that.

Don't worry about it. You boot, enter firmware setup and "Enable X.M.P" or "Enable D.O.C.P" and you're done.

If you don't want any overclocking, no matter how much of a technicality it is (and it is a technicality), then you're stuck at 2666.

I forgot to ask. If I'm playing on a tv monitor that only supports max 60hz HDMI, will the speed of RAM be that noticeable on the performance?

Mass Effect · Nov 17, 2019

Ganzlinger said:
I forgot to ask. If I'm playing on a tv monitor that only supports max 60hz HDMI, will the speed of RAM be that noticeable on the performance?

Not generally, no. Unless you're really on the cusp of maintaining 60

Santini · Nov 17, 2019

BigTnaples said:
So got a
"AMD Wraith Max RGB LED Lighting Socket AM4 4-Pin Connector CPU Cooler with Copper Core Base & Aluminum Heatsink & 4.13-Inch Fan "

Off Amazon to go with my 3950x.. not really keen on liquid cooling and from what Linus and others have said in reviews, it's not needed, especially without an over clock.

Rest of the build,

MSI MPG X570 Gaming Pro Carbon WiFi Mobo

G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB DDR4 3600 16-16-16-36

Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD

And my EVGA RTX 2080ti FTW3 Ultra

Upgrading from my 3770k build, (and I also do a lot of Photography and 4K Video editing) so I'm super pumped.

I'll be reusing my old case, EVGA 750watt Power Supply, and an 256gb Intel SSD.

Look good to everyone? Any tips? Issues to avoid? Etc?

Can't wait for this thing to launch.

Edit: So I think I've fucked up. I originally added this to my Newegg wishlist back when I was planning a Intel i79900k build. Then in a lapse in memory forgot to change it.

"G.SKILL TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3600 (PC4 28800) Intel Z170 / Z270 / Z370 / X299 Desktop Memory Model F4-3600C16D-16GTZKW"

Unless I'm way off base this wil only work with Intel chipsets yes?

I've requested a return from the seller, it arrived last month but is unopened.

My game plan is to return it and purchase this set.
"G.SKILL Trident Z Royal Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin RGB DDR4 3600 (PC4 28800) Desktop Memory F4-3600C16D-16GTRG"

Will this fix my fuckup?

If you haven't already, I would cancel your order for the MSI motherboard and pick a different one for less money (saving around $20-30) and a better VRM cooling setup, such as the Gigabyte AORUS Elite WI-FI or the ASUS TUF Gaming X570-PLUS (WI-FI), which are better choices when taking price into consideration.

Regarding your F4-3600C16D-16GTZKW memory, those'll work fine with that and other X570 motherboards. It's on G.SKILL's QVL, which means they tested it.

The Crucial P1 is a good budget SSD (here's a decent guide), though I don't know how I'd feel about using it as my main/boot drive versus as a game/storage drive.

Good luck building and enjoy gaming on your 2080 Ti!

For folks looking for some insight into what Ryzen AM4 X570, X470, and B450 motherboards are good or not, Buildzoid just posted a relatively short (for him, anyway) video on this subject:

If you've never seen his other videos on his Actually Hardware Overclocking or on the Gamer's Nexus YouTube channel, I'd recommend giving them a watch if you're interested in learning about why or why not some Ryzen motherboards are better than others, from a technical/features/price standpoint.

Megasoum · Nov 17, 2019

Hey guys, you might be able to help me...

I bought a TCL Series 6 TV today and I just plugged it in my Win10 PC (GTX 1080) via an HDMI 2.0 cable.

When I go into the Windows Display Setting I now have the HDR option toggle which I turned on. I did the same for the toggles in the "Advanced Colors" settings.

Now both my TV and Windows' settings are showing that HDR is on (which is good obviously) but now the TV's image is super dim/dark... I've tried moving the slider in the Advanced Color settings but still nothing.

Any ideas?

senj · Nov 17, 2019

Ganzlinger said:
I forgot to ask. If I'm playing on a tv monitor that only supports max 60hz HDMI, will the speed of RAM be that noticeable on the performance?

It's really impossible to give a hard and fast answer to that. It's going to come down to the individual game, the settings in that game, how all of that interacts with your other components to put pressure on your memory bandwidth, how long you intend to go without upgrading while playing newer games at the highest settings you can sustain, how tolerant you'll be of lowering settings, when you might look at updating to 4k if it's a 1080p panel, etc, etc, etc.

It is certainly not impossible that some of the time the memory overhead might be the difference between a locked 60 and dips into the 50s. But maybe you'd rather just drop settings instead in a given game. It all really, really depends.

Vincent Alexander · Nov 17, 2019

Megasoum said:
Hey guys, you might be able to help me...

I bought a TCL Series 6 TV today and I just plugged it in my Win10 PC (GTX 1080) via an HDMI 2.0 cable.

When I go into the Windows Display Setting I now have the HDR option toggle which I turned on. I did the same for the toggles in the "Advanced Colors" settings.

Now both my TV and Windows' settings are showing that HDR is on (which is good obviously) but now the TV's image is super dim/dark... I've tried moving the slider in the Advanced Color settings but still nothing.

Any ideas?

Your TV probably changed it's profile when it detected HDR and you have to change your settings on the TV itself now. That is my BS guess.

Megasoum · Nov 17, 2019

Vincent Alexander said:
Your TV probably changed it's profile when it detected HDR and you have to change your settings on the TV itself now. That is my BS guess.

Yeah I thought that too but it's pretty much using all the "Normal" settings everywhere on the TV. I have reset the settings on there without success and changing the different profiles to brighter than normal didn't help much.

Vincent Alexander · Nov 17, 2019

Megasoum said:
Yeah I thought that too but it's pretty much using all the "Normal" settings everywhere on the TV. I have reset the settings on there without success and changing the different profiles to brighter than normal didn't help much.

Hero_of_the_Day I think had a similar issue with their TV back in the day.

Hero_of_the_Day · Nov 17, 2019

Megasoum said:
Yeah I thought that too but it's pretty much using all the "Normal" settings everywhere on the TV. I have reset the settings on there without success and changing the different profiles to brighter than normal didn't help much.

Did you set your backlight to the max? 'Cause it should be on HDR.

Megasoum · Nov 17, 2019

Hero_of_the_Day said:
Did you set your backlight to the max? 'Cause it should be on HDR.

Ya, it's already at 100

LowParry · Nov 17, 2019

Zeth said:
Thanks

Should I look at any alternatives to the Meshify C? I prefer the looks of the NZXT H510 but it seems to run hot? Or should I not worry about that if I'm not planning to push overclocks hard?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ixFt7h8fak

This pretty much sold me on getting a NZXT H500. He also suggests to not put any front fans but he goes into good detail as to why that is. So it can save you some money.

H510 is pretty much the same right?

Santini · Nov 17, 2019

LowParry said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ixFt7h8fak

This pretty much sold me on getting a NZXT H500. He also suggests to not put any front fans but he goes into good detail as to why that is. So it can save you some money.

H510 is pretty much the same right?

The H510 has 1 USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C port in the front, which the H500 doesn't, as it has 2 USB 3.1 Gen 1 ports. However, your motherboard needs to have a header for it so that you can actually use it. If your MB doesn't come with one, it's not worth it.

Here's a good review for the H510, though it's for the Elite version.

MythicReclaimer · Nov 17, 2019

Megasoum said:
Hey guys, you might be able to help me...

I bought a TCL Series 6 TV today and I just plugged it in my Win10 PC (GTX 1080) via an HDMI 2.0 cable.

When I go into the Windows Display Setting I now have the HDR option toggle which I turned on. I did the same for the toggles in the "Advanced Colors" settings.

Now both my TV and Windows' settings are showing that HDR is on (which is good obviously) but now the TV's image is super dim/dark... I've tried moving the slider in the Advanced Color settings but still nothing.

Any ideas?

It's a bug with the TCL TVs or the Roku software driving them...to fix it simply use the TV remote to go back to the dashboard of the TV and reselect the PC input. This happens all the time (for me and others with the same setup) on both Xbox and PC concerning HDR. Sometimes you'll have to do it multiple times, you'll also have to do it when you start a game sometimes to fix it.

LowParry · Nov 17, 2019

Santini said:
The H510 has 1 USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C port in the front, which the H500 doesn't, as it has 2 USB 3.1 Gen 1 ports. However, your motherboard needs to have a header for it so that you can actually use it. If your MB doesn't come with one, it's not worth it.

Gotcha. Misread some of that info so I'd be going for the H510 then. It's weird to have reviewers recommend not using air intake on the front. I'd probably put a 140mm on top, and the 120mm on the back.

Megasoum · Nov 17, 2019

MythicReclaimer said:
It's a bug with the TCL TVs or the Roku software driving them...to fix it simply use the TV remote to go back to the dashboard of the TV and reselect the PC input. This happens all the time (for me and others with the same setup) on both Xbox and PC concerning HDR. Sometimes you'll have to do it multiple times, you'll also have to do it when you start a game sometimes to fix it.

Thanks but still no luck :(

MythicReclaimer · Nov 17, 2019

Megasoum said:
Thanks but still no luck :(

Weird, I can reproduce this issue at will. Have you tried playing a game with HDR active? Is the screen super dark/dim? If so try the method there with an actual HDR source being fed to it. Otherwise turn HDR off in Windows and try some HDR games as some of them don't need the setting on in Windows to initiate HDR in-game (like Destiny 2). Just trying to see if you can get HDR activated proper at all in some way and then troubleshoot from there. PC gaming and HDR can be very fickle.

Megasoum · Nov 17, 2019

MythicReclaimer said:
Weird, I can reproduce this issue at will. Have you tried playing a game with HDR active? Is the screen super dark/dim? If so try the method there with an actual HDR source being fed to it. Otherwise turn HDR off in Windows and try some HDR games as some of them don't need the setting on in Windows to initiate HDR in-game (like Destiny 2). Just trying to see if you can get HDR activated proper at all in some way and then troubleshoot from there. PC gaming and HDR can be very fickle.

Yeah I tried to change the input while in a game with HDR on so no go there.

I'm not sure if I have an HDR game that works with HDR turned off in Windows, all the ones I've tried so far need the windows setting to be turned on for the ingame setting to show up at all.

TaterTots · Nov 17, 2019

LowParry said:
Gotcha. Misread some of that info so I'd be going for the H510 then. It's weird to have reviewers recommend not using air intake on the front. I'd probably put a 140mm on top, and the 120mm on the back.

I have this case. I haven't installed any additional fans either. Watching my temps, I probably won't either. If you're overclocking though, I'd suggest it.

MythicReclaimer · Nov 17, 2019

Megasoum said:
Yeah I tried to change the input while in a game with HDR on so no go there.

I'm not sure if I have an HDR game that works with HDR turned off in Windows, all the ones I've tried so far need the windows setting to be turned on for the ingame setting to show up at all.

One more thing, go to your TCL TV dashboard...then to Settings/TV inputs/select your PC input and make sure HDMI mode is set to 2.0 rather than Auto.

Megasoum · Nov 17, 2019

MythicReclaimer said:
One more thing, go to your TCL TV dashboard...then to Settings/TV inputs/select your PC input and make sure HDMI mode is set to 2.0 rather than Auto.

Yup, first thing I did when I first booted the TV (My friend went through the same thing a while ago and this is what held him back for a few days haha)

LowParry · Nov 17, 2019

TaterTots said:
I have this case. I haven't installed any additional fans either. Watching my temps, I probably won't either. If you're overclocking though, I'd suggest it.

Probably won't do any sort of overclocking. Just letting "turbo" do its thing with the CPU and GPU. The case just looks super clean. Did you go with the white version? Did you replace any of the fans or stick with stock? How quiet can it be?

MythicReclaimer · Nov 17, 2019

Megasoum said:
Yup, first thing I did when I first booted the TV (My friend went through the same thing a while ago and this is what held him back for a few days haha)

Outside of trying another cable I'm at a loss as what you're describing is exactly what many have dealt with concerning the Series 5 TCL TVs (I know you said Series 6 but it sounds like the same issue). I have to go back to the dashboard and reselect the input nearly 100% of the time on both Xbox and PC to get HDR working but this fixes it every time.

Megasoum · Nov 17, 2019

MythicReclaimer said:
Outside of trying another cable I'm at a loss as what you're describing is exactly what many have dealt with concerning the Series 5 TCL TVs (I know you said Series 6 but it sounds like the same issue). I have to go back to the dashboard and reselect the input nearly 100% of the time on both Xbox and PC to get HDR working but this fixes it every time.

Really weird but thanks for the help anyway! I'll continue my research

TaterTots · Nov 17, 2019

LowParry said:
Probably won't do any sort of overclocking. Just letting "turbo" do its thing with the CPU and GPU. The case just looks super clean. Did you go with the white version? Did you replace any of the fans or stick with stock? How quiet can it be?

Kept the stock fans. I do not hear those fans at all. The only thing I can hear sometimes is my graphics card(bought a blower), but even then its not that noticeable.

LowParry · Nov 17, 2019

TaterTots said:
Kept the stock fans. I do not hear those fans at all. The only thing I can hear sometimes is my graphics card(bought a blower), but even then its not that noticeable.

Interesting. Do you mind going over a quick run down of what you got? Or just a picture will work too. :D

TaterTots · Nov 17, 2019

LowParry said:
Interesting. Do you mind going over a quick run down of what you got? Or just a picture will work too. :D

Ryzen 3600
Corsair Vengeance 16GB 3200 RGB pro RAM
Sabrent Rocket 512GB M.2. SSD
ASUS X570-P motherboard
ASUS rx 5700 xt(blower)
NZXT H510(white)
EVGA BQ 600 W power supply

I have a 1TB HDD I'm going to throw in eventually, but I'm going to back up the things I need and reformat it first.

LowParry · Nov 17, 2019

TaterTots said:
Ryzen 3600
Corsair Vengeance 16GB 3200 RGB pro RAM
Sabrent Rocket 512GB M.2. SSD
ASUS X570-P motherboard
ASUS rx 5700 xt(blower)
NZXT H510(white)
EVGA BQ 600 W power supply

I have a 1TB HDD I'm going to throw in eventually, but I'm going to back up the things I need and reformat it first.

Damn you hit it pretty well with that build. Just a couple more weeks :( Hoping BF/CM has some good deals on the parts I want.

TaterTots · Nov 17, 2019

LowParry said:
Damn you hit it pretty well with that build. Just a couple more weeks :( Hoping BF/CM has some good deals on the parts I want.

Yea...it hit my wallet pretty good too. Never thought I'd spend that much on a PC. I was able to get the RAM and CPU $20 off each and the GPU $40 off thanks to Newegg sales. You waiting til Black Friday/Cyber Monday? What build are you going with?

LowParry · Nov 17, 2019

TaterTots said:
Yea...it hit my wallet pretty good too. Never thought I'd spend that much on a PC. I was able to get the RAM and CPU $20 off each and the GPU $40 off thanks to Newegg sales. You waiting til Black Friday/Cyber Monday?

Yup. And I hate waiting. I've almost pulled the trigger twice already but I'm waiting.

TaterTots · Nov 17, 2019

LowParry said:
Yup. And I hate waiting. I've almost pulled the trigger twice already but I'm waiting.

It's good to wait for sales. I did get impatient. What build are you going with?

No Depth · Nov 17, 2019

LowParry said:
Probably won't do any sort of overclocking. Just letting "turbo" do its thing with the CPU and GPU. The case just looks super clean. Did you go with the white version? Did you replace any of the fans or stick with stock? How quiet can it be?

I too have the H510 Elite(White). Been running perfectly with zero issues for ~3mo since purchased.

Only addition I made was adding a fan up top(so 4 total inside). Though I think NZXT started including a 4th fan standard in the Elite as a reaction to review concerns for airflow. I use a Kraken X62 AIO CPU cooler with the radiator bolted onto the big 240mm intake front fans.

Running an i9900k with a 2070S on an Ultrawide monitor. I have yet to have any temp warnings or issues whatsoever playing maxed out games. I worried when reviews discussed airflow concerns, but I've had none.

My only complaint is the 3.5" drive bay cage feels out of the 90's, so a bit of a pain to work with if using a mechanical HDD. But that just means unscrewing the cage, pulling the whole thing out, swapping/installing drives, etc... not a big deal, but everything else is well designed about the case, so that one thing feels archaic.

LowParry · Nov 17, 2019

TaterTots said:
It's good to wait for sales. I did get impatient. What build are you going with?

This

I had this whole idea of going white with rgb but then that was making my budget get out of control. I already have 3 SSD from my old computer I will be using. Plus an 2TB external for other stuff.

I still have a lot of wiggle room since I'm on a $1200 budget.

Probably will go with 1 x 140mm and 1 x 120mm RGB to replace the stock fans. Not sure if I want to go the Corsair route or not with those but apparently they're the best of the best. But it's either that or go with the be quiet! brand with the case fans. I don't think I'll be adding any to the front though I've seen some people add one to the middle slot to push air past the GPU.

The motherboard I picked seems to be a good one but the way the GPU will cover the chipset fan seems awkward. I haven't seen or read any complaints about that though.

TaterTots · Nov 17, 2019

LowParry said:
This

I had this whole idea of going white with rgb but then that was making my budget get out of control. I already have 3 SSD from my old computer I will be using. Plus an 2TB external for other stuff.

I still have a lot of wiggle room since I'm on a $1200 budget.

Probably will go with 1 x 140mm and 1 x 120mm RGB to replace the stock fans. Not sure if I want to go the Corsair route or not with those but apparently they're the best of the best. But it's either that or go with the be quiet! brand with the case fans. I don't think I'll be adding any to the front though I've seen some people add one to the middle slot to push air past the GPU.

The motherboard I picked seems to be a good one but the way the GPU will cover the chipset fan seems awkward. I haven't seen or read any complaints about that though.

My motherboard is built similar to that one. The chipset 100% is behind the GPU, but I've yet to experience any issues from it. My chipset does have RGB, but I can't even see it because its covered. There is this little glow coming from behind the GPU lol. Does 3600 RAM help with performance on the 3700x?

EDIT; Do you have a GPU already?

LowParry · Nov 17, 2019

TaterTots said:
My motherboard is built similar to that one. The chipset 100% is behind the GPU, but I've yet to experience any issues from it. My chipset does have RGB, but I can't even see it because its covered. There is this little glow coming from behind the GPU lol. Does 3600 RAM help with performance on the 3700x?

EDIT; Do you have a GPU already?

Oh. Totally forgot about that. I'm sticking with my 1080 for now till next year around Tax returns. If the rumored 3000 serious is coming out next year, I may roll with that. Otherwise I'll be int he market for a 2070 Super. I'd of gone with the 5700 but I have a G-sync monitor so have to stick with Nvidia on that one.

Edit: For the RAM, with the reserach I found that higher speeds work really well with Ryzen. Also with a CAS latency of 16 so I rolled with what I picked. I honestly don't remember much after all the research I did on it. I'm sure someone here could expalin it a lot better than I ever could.

catpurrcat · Nov 17, 2019

evrythngwastakn said:
Ehhh not a huge sale. $539 vs $559 msrp. But they're always short on stock and memory express is the only computer store in Victoria and they don't offer the pulse or red dragon model. So I figure any savings on those will be eaten up by shipping charges were I to order them online.

ngl kinda hoping a full sized 2070 super dips below $600 since I do wannatry ray tracing.

Freezing my butt off in Toronto, so envious of you in Victoria :)

Better discount than nothing. Even with all the stores in Toronto, best I could find was $20 off on 2070S and nothing until recently on the 5700xt. In fact it was much cheaper to import it or take a quick drive down to states for it. Pulse is here for $539 (down from $569). Went with the 2070S thanks to CoD included.

Keep an eye out on black friday, but don't be too hopeful.

exodus · Nov 17, 2019

TaterTots said:
Ryzen 3600
Corsair Vengeance 16GB 3200 RGB pro RAM
Sabrent Rocket 512GB M.2. SSD
ASUS X570-P motherboard
ASUS rx 5700 xt(blower)
NZXT H510(white)
EVGA BQ 600 W power supply

I have a 1TB HDD I'm going to throw in eventually, but I'm going to back up the things I need and reformat it first.

Looks great. Any games in particular you plan on putting on there? That 512GB drive will fill up really fast.

If you need game storage, the Intel 660p is quite cheap and works very well as a games drive. You can also look at 2.5" drives as well. You can get 1TB for ~$100 and 2TB for ~$200.

TaterTots · Nov 17, 2019

exodus said:
Looks great. Any games in particular you plan on putting on there? That 512GB drive will fill up really fast.

If you need game storage, the Intel 660p is quite cheap and works very well as a games drive. You can also look at 2.5" drives as well. You can get 1TB for ~$100 and 2TB for ~$200.

Yea I already have 1 or 2 games installed on it. Right now its Age of Empires 2 DE and Rainbow 6 Siege. I have a 1 TB HDD I'm going to throw in when I'm not lazy. Though, I rarely have more than 2 games installed at a time so we'll see.

Zeth · Nov 17, 2019

exodus said:
Looks great. Any games in particular you plan on putting on there? That 512GB drive will fill up really fast.

If you need game storage, the Intel 660p is quite cheap and works very well as a games drive. You can also look at 2.5" drives as well. You can get 1TB for ~$100 and 2TB for ~$200.

Is the Intel 660p a good boot drive?

The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2

One Winged Slayer