If you don't mind them being louder, then they are as good as others. All GPUs will be audible under the load, but the smaller the cooling - the louder it is.
I would recommend to spend an extra $10 for the dual-fan version without the midget fans.
The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2
- Thread starter Soda
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I would recommend to spend an extra $10 for the dual-fan version without the midget fans.
I've been playing around with getting a brand new build for a while now but I feel a bit out of my depth since the last time I built a PC 6 years ago.
Here's the list I've got so far. I've been rocking couch gaming for years but now I've got an office I can buy an actual monitor. I also need a mobo with wifi but have no idea if what I've picked is good. Any tips or critiques would be great.
I intend to stay at 1080p but I want something that will last a good while. Plannning on emulating a lot of older games and playing new releases. I really want to move my Final Fantasy 14 account to PC as well.
PCPartPicker Part List: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/BZtFsk
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor (£129.93 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX AM4 Motherboard (£115.56 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£74.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£54.99 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 8 GB PULSE Video Card (£368.71 @ Amazon UK)
Case: NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case (£86.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair TXM Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply (£73.42 @ Amazon UK)
Monitor: AOC 27G2 27.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor
Total: £904.58
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-08 14:42 GMT+0000
Here's the list I've got so far. I've been rocking couch gaming for years but now I've got an office I can buy an actual monitor. I also need a mobo with wifi but have no idea if what I've picked is good. Any tips or critiques would be great.
I intend to stay at 1080p but I want something that will last a good while. Plannning on emulating a lot of older games and playing new releases. I really want to move my Final Fantasy 14 account to PC as well.
PCPartPicker Part List: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/BZtFsk
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor (£129.93 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX AM4 Motherboard (£115.56 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£74.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£54.99 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 8 GB PULSE Video Card (£368.71 @ Amazon UK)
Case: NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case (£86.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair TXM Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply (£73.42 @ Amazon UK)
Monitor: AOC 27G2 27.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor
Total: £904.58
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-08 14:42 GMT+0000
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• Either get the deeply-discounted 2700, or get to the 3600.
• Get the 512GB NVME drive for the primary, definitely budget for it, Sabrent Rocket or Adata SX8200 Pro
• 500W PSU would be plenty, downgrade if you want to same some money
Enough, you don't need high airflow for most computers. Having more front intake fans is kind of the cosmetic thing without radiators.
My current pc is i5-9400f, gtx 1660, Gigabyte H310M, thermaltake RGB 500W 80. How long can i play new games in max settings with good framerate in 1080p? Thinking about updating my pc in maybe few months. Should i upgrade everything or? Budget is 1.5k approximately.
Ah thank you for this. I now think this is hardware related though. I downloaded and played another cpu intensive game in total war war hammer and that crashed too. I am currently stress testing the cpu using Prime95 and so far it seems to be running.
I am starting to think that if Prime95 runs fine it has to be a PSU issue?
Any ideas anyone? I am totally at a loss here since I have never tried fixing a pc issue myself.
Forget what said.
That s a good 1080p 60fps build. I dont think there is a need for a upgrade for now.
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That's a brand spanking new PC. It seems like a bit of a waste to update it at all since you clearly just bought it.
Wait a few years and build something new. If you're really feeling the itch, the only thing I'd consider is getting a stronger GPU along with a 1440p 144Hz GSync monitor. But if you plan to keep playing at 1080p, your 1660 is just fine. Especially if you're just aiming for 60Hz, I don't expect your PC to have much trouble for a few years until next gen games start maturing a bit.
If you really, really need to spend $1.5k right now, then I'd do:
9900K (~$500)
2070 Super (~$500)
1440p 144Hz Gsync monitor of your choosing (~$500)
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I'd say that's overkill yeah. x2 140mm front intakes and x2 120mm back/top exhausts is plenty in almost all cases. Especially since you also have a Dark Rock Pro 4 cooling the CPUs.
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It could be the PSU but are you using a regular mechanical HDD or SSD? If it’s the former check for bad sectors.
EDIT: also run memtest on the RAM. Possible you a have a bad stick.
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Have my parts for a thread ripper build.
System won't turn on. Rgb confirms power running through it.
Does threadripper require both the 4pin and 8pin slots connected to properly power it?
System won't turn on. Rgb confirms power running through it.
Does threadripper require both the 4pin and 8pin slots connected to properly power it?
Hmmm. And I had to get the RGB version of this case with the front 3 being RGB. I'll have to play around with different fan placements. The 2 x 140mm placement in the front would be something I'd like.
I have updated to 144hz monitor and I really only care about 144hz in CSGO and Apex. I think you're right and I should wait. I thought that the gpu wouldn't run new games for much longer. When I will upgrade should i update motherboard, cpu and gpu and power at the same time? Is it not wise to update one part at a time? How long will for example 2070 Super run new games in 1440p?
For what it's worth, 3 won't be a negative in any way. I just doubt you'd see any real temperature difference vs 2. But if that's what works with your RGB, that's what works.
Besides the obvious stuff, from what I understand there can often be mounting (pressure) issues with these huge CPUs. As unfun as it is, consider remounting if you haven't already. (After you've tried with all the power connectors, and so on.)
Read your motherboard manual to check. I guess probably the 8-pin on it's own is fine, 4-pin on it's own not (that's how it is on my not-TR Ryzen board).
Ah. I have an SSD, and I did the memory test and no faults. Worth pointing out that my PC is almost five years old now.
Yeah strictly for gaming, 16GB will do you good. But if you're able, I'd go with 32GB :p
RAM prices seem to be pretty low, or at least the lowest they've been in a while, right now. I'd get it just because. You never know when you may decide to do something with your rig besides game. Of course you could just add another 16GB stick later if that's the case.
Hi guys I was wondering if anyone had thoughts on this, I bought 4 western digital 6 TB drives (WD60EZRZ ) for storage. Two a month ago and two more a week ago.
One of the new drives from a week ago is a lot louder than the others when random reading, for example populating the date created information in a folder.
If I run a random access read, the sound happens too.
It's not a ticking, or a weird noise. It's like rain drops landing on thick glass. It is way louder than any of the other drives. The others make either no noise or barely any by comparison. If they do make a noise, it is similar, just way way fainter.
I ran a full format on all the drives when I got them.
I don't understand why the same model would be significantly louder.
I'm mostly concerned about the health of the drive long-term. Any suggestions?
One of the new drives from a week ago is a lot louder than the others when random reading, for example populating the date created information in a folder.
If I run a random access read, the sound happens too.
It's not a ticking, or a weird noise. It's like rain drops landing on thick glass. It is way louder than any of the other drives. The others make either no noise or barely any by comparison. If they do make a noise, it is similar, just way way fainter.
I ran a full format on all the drives when I got them.
I don't understand why the same model would be significantly louder.
I'm mostly concerned about the health of the drive long-term. Any suggestions?
Gonna go ahead and quote myself from a couple months back in case it helps anyone, this issue was in fact my PSU's fault. RMA'd it and got a new one within a week and my PC has been fine ever since
Is there a good alternative for an i7 9700k and a RTX 2070 for a gaming desktop where the CPU won't cost me 500$ and the GPU 650$?
I really want to buy a new gaming desktop, as my current i5-4460k, gtx 970 and 8gb DDR3 ram is starting to show its age, but its ridiculous how buying these 2 parts alone make my bill over 1000$ already. And I fear that buying cheaper parts like a RTX 2060 won't be enough of an upgrade...
I really want to buy a new gaming desktop, as my current i5-4460k, gtx 970 and 8gb DDR3 ram is starting to show its age, but its ridiculous how buying these 2 parts alone make my bill over 1000$ already. And I fear that buying cheaper parts like a RTX 2060 won't be enough of an upgrade...
Are you in Canada or Australia? Because those prices seem extreme for the states
But if you're in Canada the 3700X can be found $420 for and a good 5700XT model can be found for $540.They're great alternatives unless you want to stay away from AMD
Ignore the regular 2070, at that price range get a 2070 SUPER which is replacing it, or the Radeon 5700XT, which is cheaper and a great performer just over the 2070 and and under the 2070 SUPER. The AMD 9700K alternative would be the R7 3700X.
Are those Canadian prices?
So coil whine....
I went through a zotac 2080 super AMP and a EVGA 2080 super XF Gaming and both have had some coil whine. High FPS gaming makes it worse. Are there any GPUs out there without coil whine?
I was also reading that PSU can contribute to this issue, but I have a Corsair SF 600 which is Gold rated.. I know the GPUs require 650 W, is that the issue? I was reading that 600W is more than enough for an Ryzen 3700x, 2080 super, 2 SSDs and an exhaust fan, and 16 gb of RAM. I ran this through newegg's PSU calculator.
Of note, I need a dual slot 2080 super for a fractal Core 500 case.
I went through a zotac 2080 super AMP and a EVGA 2080 super XF Gaming and both have had some coil whine. High FPS gaming makes it worse. Are there any GPUs out there without coil whine?
I was also reading that PSU can contribute to this issue, but I have a Corsair SF 600 which is Gold rated.. I know the GPUs require 650 W, is that the issue? I was reading that 600W is more than enough for an Ryzen 3700x, 2080 super, 2 SSDs and an exhaust fan, and 16 gb of RAM. I ran this through newegg's PSU calculator.
Of note, I need a dual slot 2080 super for a fractal Core 500 case.
This isn't thread worthy, but definitely is worth posting.
In early 2010 I bought this power supply.
Antec EarthWatts EA650 650W
It has been my power supply for over 9 1/2 years and has been used with my ancient AMD build, switch to a Sandy Bridge with a GTX 460, eventually a 7870XT, and since 2016, a 6600K OC, and a 1070.
In 2016 I built my daughter's PC with an EVGA 600 B1, 80+ Bronze 600W power supply. It has an i5-6500 with 16GBs of DDR4 and my old 7870. It died a few months after the 3yr warranty expiration.
Might be a fluke in either direction, but I am really impressed with the Antec life span, even though it's a grey metal case with mustard/ketchup cables.
In early 2010 I bought this power supply.
Antec EarthWatts EA650 650W
It has been my power supply for over 9 1/2 years and has been used with my ancient AMD build, switch to a Sandy Bridge with a GTX 460, eventually a 7870XT, and since 2016, a 6600K OC, and a 1070.
In 2016 I built my daughter's PC with an EVGA 600 B1, 80+ Bronze 600W power supply. It has an i5-6500 with 16GBs of DDR4 and my old 7870. It died a few months after the 3yr warranty expiration.
Might be a fluke in either direction, but I am really impressed with the Antec life span, even though it's a grey metal case with mustard/ketchup cables.
It’s not like there are specific models without coil whine. Coil whine is a nature of the technology, more audible in some cards than others.
Are there cards out there that we know have less coil whine?
There is no reason to avoid AMD. It is just that for years they didn't have competitive products, not anymore. Ryzen CPUs are currently more popular, but Intel had years to secure most of the market.
As for GPUs, in term of offerings Nvidia dominates the highest end, but the mid range is tied between the two.
No reason really. Ryzen has been a great line of processor that has done well to compete with Intel's offerings. The Intel 9700k is still a better processor for gaming, but the 3700X is cheaper so depending on what you're going to be playing it might have the better price to performance ratio
As for The 5700 line, they're just priced competitively. Early on they had driver issues but that's been fixed from my own experience and from what I've seen online.
Not sure what you mean by your question, but if you're looking for a list of 4.0 SSDs and there specs look into the google spreadsheet below. It is bundled up with last gen SSDs though
Canadian here. Going to quote myself from a post made around a month or two ago deciding between a 2070S and 5700XT. Since then, prices for both came down a bit on BF.
FWIW there’s a bunch of us on here with the combination of AMD CPU’s and Nvidia GPU’s. Both are fine.
Huh, I honestly didn't know this was a thing. I built my first real good PC like three years ago using a modified version of a mini-itx list that I found... somewhere, so I went with their recommended 550W PSU. Just ran my stuff through that calculator and it recommended 350 so I'm good but... good to know for the future huh
Hey there folks, hoping to have a question answered. Basically I'm just wondering whether my cpu or gpu should be the first thing I replace in my current pc. I'm using an i5 6600k cpu, and a regular gtx1080 gpu.
Was planning to just get a new gpu sometime next year, but I saw some comments about the 6600 cpu's in another era thread a few minutes ago, which made me wonder if maybe the cpu was actually the thing I should be looking at replacing first?
Was planning to just get a new gpu sometime next year, but I saw some comments about the 6600 cpu's in another era thread a few minutes ago, which made me wonder if maybe the cpu was actually the thing I should be looking at replacing first?
That's what I'm doing now. New CPU this year. GPU next year when the 3000 series comes out.
I don't get the ban. Is it because that poster use the word midget? I didn't realize you couldn't use that to describe an inanimate object.
yeah that's insane to me - I understand that it's offensive to individuals, but a 2 week ban for this doesn't make sense to me... unless the person has specifically hated against midgets in the past and has been warned like 10 times...
Sabrent Rocket 4.0 is a great choice for PCIE 4.0 SSDs IMO. I got myself a pair of the 2TB ones and have them RAID 0’d for a nice big 4TB system drive.
We're already seeing games that really struggle with only 4 and 6 cores, and especially those without hyperthreading. In my opinion you should be looking at a new CPU soon. The 1080 is still a very capable card, you can survive with that @ 1080p & 1440p for awhile I think.
Honestly, the difference between gen3 and gen4 m.2's in games is almost 0. I'd recommend buying the gen3 m.2's if gaming is your ultimate goal with your build. Quick benchmark comparing m2's: https://www.techspot.com/review/1893-pcie-4-vs-pcie-3-ssd/
I got this same cpu and will be sticking to it for another two or three years. If you plan to replace parts the CPU should be the first thing upgraded.
So im interested in the Acer Predator XB272-HDR. For some reason i cant find it in Canada? It seems like i can find variations of this monitor. Its all pretty confusing.
For those who need a legit Windows 10 Pro OEM Cd-Key, I just read this on guru3d.com:
Promo: Windows 10 Pro for $13 With Office 2016 For $33
Good time to legitimize your Windows license, especially if you ever bought them from less reputable sources.
Promo: Windows 10 Pro for $13 With Office 2016 For $33
Good time to legitimize your Windows license, especially if you ever bought them from less reputable sources.
Hello all, I have a tiny problem in my hands: last week I bought a M.2 SSD for my PC, installed it then put Windows on it no problems. However, now my PC doesn't see my SATA HDD, and I've tried running all kinds of diagnostic tools and the like to see where the problem could be, but all results indicate that for all intents and purposes I don't have a HDD connected. If I remove the M.2 SSD, then my HDD is visible again to my PC. Any ideas what's happening?
is it an NVMe or SATA m.2 ssd?
it's possible depending on the drive, the slot it's installed, and your motherboard model that some SATA ports have been disabled. for example, on my particular board if i were to install an M.2 in the 3rd slot that it would disable 2 SATA ports. if i had drives connected to that they wouldn't show up.
basically, some m.2 slots share bandwith with SATA ports. i would check your motherboard manual to check you haven't put something in the wrong slot/port. generally, m.2 drives should be installed in the slots closest to your CPU. and drives should be connected to ports starting from 0. usually the 2nd/3rd or 4th m.2 slots and the last 2 sata ports are the ones that share bandwidth.
if that doesn't sort it out then it might be an issue with Windows. i used to get problems all the time when install windows on my m.2 with other drives attached. now i disconnect all drives when doing a clean install of windows on the boot drive. once everything is installed then just reconnect them.
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Changed my build slightly, decided to downgrade the GPU to something more reasonable. Just need a PSU.
My basket at Overclockers UK:
My basket at Overclockers UK:
- 1 x MSI GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER VENTUS XS OC 6144MB GDDR6 PCI-Express Graphics Card= £229.99
- 1 x MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC (Socket AM4) DDR4 ATX Motherboard= £119.99
- 1 x AMD Ryzen 5 Six Core 2600X 4.20GHz (Socket AM4) Processor - Retail= £149.99
- 1 x NZXT H510 Midi Tower Gaming Case - Black Tempered Glass= £74.99
- 1 x Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 PC4-25600C16 3200MHz Dual Channel Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B32= £74.99
- 1 x Seagate 2TB BarraCuda 7200RPM 256MB Cache Internal Hard Drive (ST2000DM008)= £50.99
- 1 x AOC Gaming 24G2U 24" 1920x1080 IPS 144Hz 1ms FreeSync Widescreen LED Gaming Monitor= £179.99
Total: £911.29 (includes shipping: £30.36)
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