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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2

Marow

Member
Oct 25, 2017
518
I'm planning on making a complete refresh this summer whenever the next AMD/Intel CPU, and NVIDIA RTX cards release (the wait between "founder" and non-founder isn't too long, right?). I'm still a bit unsure what to go for, however, when it comes to my monitor. I'm currently using a 1080p 21'' monitor (I think, I'm not near to check it atm) that can go up to 60hz. Basic, in that sense.

I know 1440p and 144hz are both real hot according to many, but I have never been able to try them out. Of these, I think I'm more interested in a higher refresh rate to be honest. What's everyone's general opinion on these two?

Additionally, I'm a bit curious when it comes to stuff like freesync and gsync. What's the conensus on these now that they've been out for a while?

I honestly wouldn't mind keeping my monitor the same as now, but maybe focus on being able to downsample games instead if that's feasible. Then again, NVIDIA has this... freestyle sharpening or whatever.

Gahhhhhhh, it's been 10 years, figuring out where to start when it comes to computers makes me insane again. Especially since it's still up in the airs if the next Intel is worth getting or if it'll be AMD.
 

selfnoise

Member
Oct 25, 2017
502
Went to pick up my pc yesterday and all's well, but I have one question. I have the Phanteks 400S case and it has a fan control button (low, mid, high speed). Now I don't mind this but on my previous pc I never had to adjust this, it automatically sped up and lowered accordingly. Can I still set this up, do I need to get into the bios?

Edit: I went in the bios (I have the Tomahawk MAX mb) and there's an automatic setting, I should probably enable that for both?
As long as your fans are connected to the motherboard for power and not directly to the PSU you should be able to use either BIOS control or the "command center" MSI app.
 

OutofMana

Member
Oct 25, 2017
3,271
California
Finally finished my first build. If my brother hadn’t been there I probably would’ve taken longer. It also helped that he had extra parts to help keep the cost down.

MSI Ventus OC Edition GeForce RTX 2060
Ryzen 5 3600
B450 Tomahawk Max
Crucial MX500 2TB
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB
Corsair Carbide 275R Mid-tower Case- Black
Corsair TX 650 Watt Modular ATX power supply


No RGB, so it’s plain as hell. I just need a good keyboard, mouse, and monitor.
 

stat84

Avenger
Oct 25, 2017
884
I have a Noctua D15-S so am not the best person to compare to as I never installed the stock cooler, mine maxes out at 67 degrees on Cinebench R20...I was actually expecting hotter.

These CPU's are rated to 95 degrees by AMD. I personally would not want it to get that hot though. Someone else here with a 3600 might be able to give you a better stock comparison.
I played the Witcher 3 for about 20-30 minutes even at 4K and the max temperature i saw was 60 so i don't know.

I searched a bit and a lot of people have had similar temperatures but i did order a cpu cooler(Coolermaster 212) and also waiting for a case fan.
 

catpurrcat

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,326
Right guys update on my build for my mate. Specs detailed below;

Ryzen 5 3600
ASUS ROG Strix B450-I Gaming mobo (Micro-ITX)
Corsair H100i 240mm AIO Cooler
32GB 3000Mhz Vengeance RAM
MSI RX 590 8GB Armor
1x Crucial MX500 CT500MX500SSD1 500GB SSD
1x Crucial MX500 CT500MX500SSD4 500GB M.2. SSD
1x WD 2TB HDD
Fractal Design Nano S case.

Installation was a tad tricky due to the smaller form factor (I'm used to big ass cases) but managed fine enough. Only issue I had was that I had installed the M2 SSD on the slot on the rear of the mobo. And for the life of me I couldn't get the BIOS to recognise it even after a BIOS update. Turns out I was a numpty and the slot on the front of the mobo was obscured by a cover... Had to disconnect every connection to the mobo but leave the AIO cooler attached to move the M2 to the correct spot as I'd forgotten to bring thermal paste remover and extra thermal paste.

All working fine now and I've left him to install all the software and games he needs to himself. He even bought me a £50 Steam card in way of thanks. Thanks for the peeps in this thread for advising me on the correct mobo. Btw the current revision for this mobo has the Ryzen 3000 series support sticker on it and it works without a hitch. Cheers :)

That looks fantastic. Well done!!!!
 

catpurrcat

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,326
I'm planning on making a complete refresh this summer whenever the next AMD/Intel CPU, and NVIDIA RTX cards release (the wait between "founder" and non-founder isn't too long, right?). I'm still a bit unsure what to go for, however, when it comes to my monitor. I'm currently using a 1080p 21'' monitor (I think, I'm not near to check it atm) that can go up to 60hz. Basic, in that sense.

I know 1440p and 144hz are both real hot according to many, but I have never been able to try them out. Of these, I think I'm more interested in a higher refresh rate to be honest. What's everyone's general opinion on these two?

Additionally, I'm a bit curious when it comes to stuff like freesync and gsync. What's the conensus on these now that they've been out for a while?

I honestly wouldn't mind keeping my monitor the same as now, but maybe focus on being able to downsample games instead if that's feasible. Then again, NVIDIA has this... freestyle sharpening or whatever.

Gahhhhhhh, it's been 10 years, figuring out where to start when it comes to computers makes me insane again. Especially since it's still up in the airs if the next Intel is worth getting or if it'll be AMD.
Coming from console only on TV's ranging from 1080p to 4K, I appreciate, the high refresh rate. I actually found freesync/gsync to be a bigger game changer than 4K. The one I'm using is 155hz and 1440p.

The biggest issue was not being able to try before buying. And from my TV buying experience, my experience buying a monitor did not match some online reviews. I found reddit and amazon review to be the most accurate compared to actual ratings sites. I guess maybe this is what people call "panel lottery"?

Anyways, you can safely buy a freesync monitor and it should theoretically work with an nvidia gsync card. I did this and it works perfectly fine through displayport. I would recommend checking reddit for people's real world experiences as most of the major monitors that go on sale end up having a large discussion attached.
 

Lakeside

Member
Oct 25, 2017
5,302
Coming from console only on TV's ranging from 1080p to 4K, I appreciate, the high refresh rate. I actually found freesync/gsync to be a bigger game changer than 4K. The one I'm using is 155hz and 1440p.

The biggest issue was not being able to try before buying. And from my TV buying experience, my experience buying a monitor did not match some online reviews. I found reddit and amazon review to be the most accurate compared to actual ratings sites. I guess maybe this is what people call "panel lottery"?

Anyways, you can safely buy a freesync monitor and it should theoretically work with an nvidia gsync card. I did this and it works perfectly fine through displayport. I would recommend checking reddit for people's real world experiences as most of the major monitors that go on sale end up having a large discussion attached.
I'd say panel lottery with monitors is a large enough variable that it makes reviews sorta iffy. I'm sure they get cherry picked devices.
 

catpurrcat

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,326
I'd say panel lottery with monitors is a large enough variable that it makes reviews sorta iffy. I'm sure they get cherry picked devices.
Interesting. I know one of the monitors my friend bought had an online review site saying it had mediocre black uniformity. We both looked at his monitor doing our own testing and were like "is this the same one they reviewed"? It was totally fine!

That's good to know^
 

dallow_bg

Member
Oct 28, 2017
5,462
texas
So the instructions said use 4 screws and tighten all the way. No problem.
I opened the box, found the four screws in the bottom in a little baggie and started to put them in.

So I was turning and turning these screws, but it seemed like too much pressure. Did all 4 a little bit at a time, looked off, unscrewed and tried again before finally giving up and removing them completely.

Turns out they weren't the correct screws. They were long as they were meant for using a taller fan on the heatsink rather than the slimmer case already installed.
I was turning the screws into the metal fins. So at all 4 corners there's fins bent and scratched to hell.

I mean, I guess it's all just metal and likely will still work. I'm just slapping my forehead and how stupid this was.
Found the 4 screws meant to be used afterward in the foam insert....

EDIT: pics


 
Oct 27, 2017
2,731
So the instructions said use 4 screws and tighten all the way. No problem.
I opened the box, found the four screws in the bottom in a little baggie and started to put them in.
Damn, I guess I thought it is metal, what is the worst thing you can do? :D

However, you bought the wrong cooler. It does not fit your personality at all. What you need is: Le Grand Macho

You are right, the cooler will work as long as you haven't punctured the heatpipe (and even then it still works, just actually losing performance).
 

dallow_bg

Member
Oct 28, 2017
5,462
texas
Damn, I guess I thought it is metal, what is the worst thing you can do? :D

However, you bought the wrong cooler. It does not fit your personality at all. What you need is: Le Grand Macho

You are right, the cooler will work as long as you haven't punctured the heatpipe (and even then it still works, just actually losing performance).
I’ve calmed down and reinstalled it now. Much faster with the thumbscrews haha.

Oh god. I’ll finish this build tonight no matter what now. That was embarrassing.
 

DSP

Member
Oct 25, 2017
4,493
really can not wait for CX 48. Gaming monitors are finally obsolete and it's probably going to cost less than all the LCD crap.


It would be funny if they price it over the 55" one because hurhur pc gaming tax. It should be around $1300-1500 which compared with some of the LCD monitors that cost about same, it is so much better. Like who on earth pays north of $1000 for LCD in 2020?
 

JudgmentJay

Member
Nov 14, 2017
1,412
Texas
really can not wait for CX 48. Gaming monitors are finally obsolete and it's probably going to cost less than all the LCD crap.


It would be funny if they price it over the 55" one because hurhur pc gaming tax. It should be around $1300-1500 which compared with some of the LCD monitors that cost about same, it is so much better. Like who on earth pays north of $1000 for LCD in 2020?
Who on Earth would put a 48" television on their desk? More importantly who on Earth would use an oled as a full-time monitor? Both of those sound like terrible ideas tbh.
 

Midee

Member
Oct 27, 2017
113
CA
Who on Earth would put a 48" television on their desk? More importantly who on Earth would use an oled as a full-time monitor? Both of those sound like terrible ideas tbh.
It makes sense if you're using it for doing work in addition to gaming. I have multiple monitors right now and wouldn't mind coalescing everything into one.

Though is there a particular reason OLED would be bad for that?
 

Dave.

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,716
It makes sense if you're using it for doing work in addition to gaming. I have multiple monitors right now and wouldn't mind coalescing everything into one.

Though is there a particular reason OLED would be bad for that?
I have a 43" 4K television on my desk, and it's pretty fantastic - it's the same pixel size as a 27" 1440p, I have one of those next to it. I treat it more like a 1440p ultrawide, windows are all in the lower 2/3rds, except if I want to fullscreen 16:9 video I can to a much larger size than if it was actually an ultrawide! 48" is too large though for me, I think. And OLED is a terrible idea because of burn-in. I can have various 100% white explorer windows / chrome tabs just sat there for an entire day against a black background, OLED would be trashed pretty quick I should imagine.

I do wish there were better TVs made in the 43" size though, they usually are only the low end ones :( I have a Samsung RU7400. Next model up has Freesync, but a 55" minimum!
 
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Creamium

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,885
Belgium
Yes to the last bit in my experience...you can tie the fan speed to a number of different sensors, CPU, board temp etc. It might be worth just messing around with it as you may prefer to set a speed in the bios rather than having fluctuations (which I find are more noticble audibly). Would recommend you have something like afterburner to monitor system temps if you make any bios adjustments to the fans but I can’t imagine the smart fan/automatic setting being a problem.
As long as your fans are connected to the motherboard for power and not directly to the PSU you should be able to use either BIOS control or the "command center" MSI app.
Thanks, I downloaded the command center and put the fans on 'smart' mode.
 

LeadProtagonist

Avenger
Oct 27, 2017
1,363
So I've come to realize that my new setup has MASSIVE coil whine. Like, incredibly audible and it changes pitches, etc. I haven't noticed because I don't currently have speakers and play with headphones.

Should I do an amazon replacement or go through EVGA? Normally I wouldn't but this is... loud. Way louder than the fans in my case and all of that. It's most certainly the GPU as it goes away completely when I alt-tab out of a game.
 
Oct 27, 2017
2,731
So I've come to realize that my new setup has MASSIVE coil whine. Like, incredibly audible and it changes pitches, etc. I haven't noticed because I don't currently have speakers and play with headphones.

Should I do an amazon replacement or go through EVGA? Normally I wouldn't but this is... loud. Way louder than the fans in my case and all of that. It's most certainly the GPU as it goes away completely when I alt-tab out of a game.
It is either GPU or PSU. Double check that it is indeed GPU itself instead of PSU when GPU is under load.

And whatever it is, yeah, audible coil whine should be a defect. Go through Amazon.
 

Brandino

Avenger
Jan 9, 2018
236
This isn't a new pc question, but are there any cheap routers that are decent with gigabit ethernet out there? I have the google wifi pods, and they only have one in and out port. Would a switch work better for me? All I'm seeing is stuff around $50, and I'd like for it to be cheaper than that if possible.
 

opticalmace

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,193
This isn't a new pc question, but are there any cheap routers that are decent with gigabit ethernet out there? I have the google wifi pods, and they only have one in and out port. Would a switch work better for me? All I'm seeing is stuff around $50, and I'd like for it to be cheaper than that if possible.
What are you trying to do? I just got a cheap netgear switch (maybe $20-25) with good reviews on amazon and it's working fine for me.
 

GeezyAF

Member
Oct 28, 2017
27
This isn't a new pc question, but are there any cheap routers that are decent with gigabit ethernet out there? I have the google wifi pods, and they only have one in and out port. Would a switch work better for me? All I'm seeing is stuff around $50, and I'd like for it to be cheaper than that if possible.
Are you in the US?
 

catpurrcat

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,326
This isn't a new pc question, but are there any cheap routers that are decent with gigabit ethernet out there? I have the google wifi pods, and they only have one in and out port. Would a switch work better for me? All I'm seeing is stuff around $50, and I'd like for it to be cheaper than that if possible.
You can attach a Network switch to your google wifi pod and it will work perfectly. An 8 port switch can cost as little as $20, 16 port $30ish.
 

catpurrcat

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,326
So I've come to realize that my new setup has MASSIVE coil whine. Like, incredibly audible and it changes pitches, etc. I haven't noticed because I don't currently have speakers and play with headphones.

Should I do an amazon replacement or go through EVGA? Normally I wouldn't but this is... loud. Way louder than the fans in my case and all of that. It's most certainly the GPU as it goes away completely when I alt-tab out of a game.
I had some audible coil whine that went away after around 25 hours of gaming use. I googled to see if that’s a thing and yes, apparently it can diminish over time.
 
Oct 27, 2017
56
U.K.
So just got my new pc up and running, cpu is a Ryzen 3600x. Idle temps look good at about 34 degrees, gaming temps no higher than 68, also pretty good. Just tried encoding a handbrake video and temps jump to 70 degrees the second I click start and climb about 1 degree a second, I stopped when it got to 85. Surely thats not right, does this sound like a problem with the cooler mounting/paste?
 

Brandino

Avenger
Jan 9, 2018
236
So just got my new pc up and running, cpu is a Ryzen 3600x. Idle temps look good at about 34 degrees, gaming temps no higher than 68, also pretty good. Just tried encoding a handbrake video and temps jump to 70 degrees the second I click start and climb about 1 degree a second, I stopped when it got to 85. Surely thats not right, does this sound like a problem with the cooler mounting/paste?
You using the cpu or gpu to encode? My laptop with an 7700HQ hits 95 when I'm encoding something.
 
Oct 27, 2017
56
U.K.
Yeah this was the using the cpu, just wanted to load it to check my temps. The standard prime95 test went no higher than 70, but when I tried the max setting my cpu hit 85 straight away.
 

Gabbo

Member
Oct 25, 2017
4,040
Is this the right thread to ask about wifi router recommendations? My current one has trouble with the number of devices we're throwing at it/connection drops becoming more frequent recently and am looking at possible replacements, but I don't know routers like I do pc parts.

Small apartment, anywhere from 4-10 devices might be connected at a given time. media streaming and game-related (steam/gog downloads, local multiplayer) are the biggest uses. 3 ethernet connections right - the rest are wifi.
Don't need a gaming router or wifi6 as nothing I own would take advantage of it. Looking to keep it under $200 if I can.
 

selfnoise

Member
Oct 25, 2017
502
Is this the right thread to ask about wifi router recommendations? My current one has trouble with the number of devices we're throwing at it/connection drops becoming more frequent recently and am looking at possible replacements, but I don't know routers like I do pc parts.

Small apartment, anywhere from 4-10 devices might be connected at a given time. media streaming and game-related (steam/gog downloads, local multiplayer) are the biggest uses. 3 ethernet connections right - the rest are wifi.
Don't need a gaming router or wifi6 as nothing I own would take advantage of it. Looking to keep it under $200 if I can.
Can you tell us what you currently have?

I have had good luck with TP-Link routers... I have about the same number of devices you have.
 

Dave.

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,716
I mean i have a amd card right now so i dont necessarily need g-sync. Also im probably not capable to distinguish between 1ms /5ms or a bit more ms.
It doesn't have G-Sync, it is "G-Sync compatible" = it actually has AMD Freesync. So yes this is the sort you do need! Confusing, I know lol. (It seems the BenQ has Freesync also)
 

Beer Monkey

Banned
Oct 30, 2017
4,838
OK, so a week ago a friend bought my GTX 1060 for $150 and I bought a GTX 1660 Ventus for $220. Was looking for the better NVENC of Turing for VR (Quest Link) video encoding and some video workflow stuff in Handbrake (1660 has same NVENC silicon as the RTX line). I've got a 100% stable overclock and I'm benching the same as stock clocks on a 1660 Super and GTX 1070.

I'm still within the return period. I just very recently learned about the MLSS of the RTX cards, from this thread, actually, and about VRSS. With the RTX 2060 KO coming in at $280, does anyone would it be worth returning the 1660 and getting the 2060 KO for Alyx and Lone Echo 2 etc to have the MLSS and VRSS? Or talk me off the ledge. Whatever I do I'm likely 1.5+ years out from another GPU upgrade once I lock this in.
 
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DSP

Member
Oct 25, 2017
4,493
OK, so a week ago a friend bought my GTX 1060 for $150 and I bought a GTX 1660 Ventus for $220. Was looking for the better NVENC of Turing for VR (Quest Link) video encoding and some video workflow stuff in Handbrake (1660 has same NVENC silicon as the RTX line). I've got a 100% stable overclock and I'm benching the same as stock clocks on a 1660 Super and GTX 1070.

I'm still within the return period. I just very recently learned about the MLSS of the RTX cards, from this thread, actually, and about VRSS. With the RTX 2060 KO coming in at $280, does anyone would it be worth returning the 1660 and getting the 2060 KO for Alyx and Lone Echo 2 etc to have the MLSS and VRSS? Or talk me off the ledge. Whatever I do I'm likely 1.5+ years out from another GPU upgrade once I lock this in.
2060 for $60 more over 1660? It is a way better card, it's on another level, not just performance but features too. I would definitely do that.

The only concern with 2060 is that 6GB VRAM might not be enough and going with 2060 super makes more sense at MSRP but now when you are looking at over $100 more then it's not worth it imo to get 2060 Super. 2060 is giving 90+ percent of same experience and VRAM is really only an issue with idtech games or higher resolutions. For even 1440p it is going to do fine for 1.5 years by then probably even 8GB isnt great and there are much better cards out there you can upgrade to. I dont think you will be disappointed by 2060 for less than $300. It is a great card at that price. I dont know how cooling is like on this KO model though, that can impact boost clock and performance quite a bit. A well cooled 2060 can hit almost 2Ghz sustained and perform really well.
 

Beer Monkey

Banned
Oct 30, 2017
4,838
2060 for $60 more over 1660? It is a way better card, it's on another level, not just performance but features too. I would definitely do that.

The only concern with 2060 is that 6GB VRAM might not be enough and going with 2060 super makes more sense at MSRP but now when you are looking at over $100 more then it's not worth it imo to get 2060 Super. 2060 is giving 90+ percent of same experience and VRAM is really only an issue with idtech games or higher resolutions. For even 1440p it is going to do fine for 1.5 years by then probably even 8GB isnt great and there are much better cards out there.
To be clear, ALL of my non-VR gaming is in 1080p and I have literally no interest in 4k despite gaming on a 65" B7 OLED. I prefer the frames over the resolution. Also the 7th gen OLED can't handle 1440p properly anyway.

Thanks for the input. $60 is the price of one AAA game. Looking forward to the KO reviews tomorrow or Tuesday.