IPS if you can help it. It will have better color accuracy and better viewing angles. However, that also normally comes with a higher price as well.
IPS if you can help it. It will have better color accuracy and better viewing angles. However, that also normally comes with a higher price as well.
What happened to your PC?My PC crapped out on me this past weekend. Wasn't planning on rebuilding until next year but I have to now :/
Specs:
CPU: i5 8600K 3.6GHz
MOBO: MSI Z370+
RAM: 32GB DDR4
PSU: CX 850M
GPU: GTX 1080 FE
Storage: 250GB SSD
Storage: 4TB HDD
500. Isnt it important to get a 1ms response time?IPS. Superior color reproduction and contrast ratio. Viewing angles are also better on IPS panels.
What's your budget if you don't mind me asking?
What happened to your PC?
I'd go with 16GB Ram and put that extra $ into a 1080ti in that build
The first page has sample builds with several price ranges to look at.Hey guys,
My friends son needs a new PC for gaming. He has a monitor and keyboard etc. Just need a new actual PC. $2000 cdn is the budget. Anyone willing to help on a build so I can recommend it to her?
I don't know about today's TN monitors but I recently purchased an Alienware aw3418dw and it's IPS panel blows away my old Asus VG248QE monitor. It's literally a night and day difference
My PC crapped out on me this past weekend. Wasn't planning on rebuilding until next year but I have to now :/
Specs:
CPU: i5 8600K 3.6GHz
MOBO: MSI Z370+
RAM: 32GB DDR4
PSU: CX 850M
GPU: GTX 1080 FE
Storage: 250GB SSD
Storage: 4TB HDD
Ah, dig it. I'd still go with 16gb if you're mostly gaming. Nothing really uses more than that, you could use it as a start to saving for that titanhad a power surge at my place and fried my mobo :( so instead of replacing that i'm just rebuilding pretty much everything. that 1080 is from my current build, not rebuying a GPU until I can save up for the 2080 titan next year. waiting on that, my 1080 can handle everything rn.
so these are starting to get IPS panels:
https://www.anandtech.com/show/13478/dell-u4919dw-curved-display
5120x1440
49" IPS
60hz
$1700
Is that Rorie's monitor?so these are starting to get IPS panels:
https://www.anandtech.com/show/13478/dell-u4919dw-curved-display
5120x1440
49" IPS
60hz
$1700
The first page has sample builds with several price ranges to look at.
Load the pcpartpicker list, change the country from US to Canada.Those are all in American prices. Any Canadians here with a build around $2000?
so these are starting to get IPS panels:
https://www.anandtech.com/show/13478/dell-u4919dw-curved-display
5120x1440
49" IPS
60hz
$1700
Never really paid attention to how hot my computer case can get but after blops4 I thought to myself this is sounding pretty loud (which I understand why) but now I have this weird fear of everything setting on fire. Game runs fine I'm not maxing out nor am I near close to going over VRAM needed but I'm noticing my gpu hits 89 degrees at times.
Specs are
AMD R9285 2 GB
I3 2100 @ 3.1 Ghz
16 Gigs of DDR3
Running the game on 1400x900 with everything on full but textures on low .
I tried to just limit my CPU fan speed since that's what seems to be making all the noise but I can hear it go from silent to WRRRR back to silent to WRRR again. So I just left it back on automatic.
Any programs that might help me out here ? Buying a cooler at the moment isn't in my budget currently.
No programm can help you here. Only valid software solution is to limit the amount of work your CPU has to do (e.g. by limiting the fps to 30).
Reapply the thermal paste between your CPU and the cooler. Clean the fanblades from dust.
If that doesn't help: Open the case. You can also point a pedestal fan (or whatever you use during hot summer days) at the PC interiour.
Oh, wait sorry it's my GPU causing all the noise and heat turns out not CPU. Is my GPU hitting 89 while playing alright?
867 500
Router ------------> | | -----------> Receiver
<------------ | | <-----------
800 1300
I have a stupid question about modems and wifi receivers.
Let's say I have a router/modem with a wireless speed on 5GHz up to 867mbps. Now, let's say I have a wifi adapter that can go to 1300mbps.
Of course the maximum theoretical output will always be 867mbps.
Now, this 867 usually is lower due to walls etc, so let's say you lose 200 mbps it would actally be 667 mbps between the router and the receiver. But, this is considering how far the router can send its signal and how far can the receiver get it, right?
My question is: if the wifi is receiver, can it get a better wifi signal from the router and get closer to the 867 speed? In particular, since it starts from 1300, it could lose 500mbps and get to 800.
I'm a little confused about wifi stuff
edit: A scheme to explain what's on my mind
That's a wall in the centerCode:867 500 Router ------------> | | -----------> Receiver <------------ | | <----------- 800 1300
Thank you, I knew that both have to work at the same speed, but basically with a receiver capable of 1300mbps and a router capable of 867mbps the realistic scenario is navigating at a 300mbps speed?802.11ac?
It's not just the walls. Amount of Antennas and amount of free channels is also important.
To reach the full 1300mbit/s potential both the Receiver and the Router have to communicate simulteanously across three 5GHz spatzial streams (3x3mimo:3). You futher need enough "local area" bandwith (free channels). Depending on how many of your neighbours are also on 5GHz routers this may be impossible to achieve.
In the end you need to make sure that both your router and the receiving device have 802.11ac, have at least 3 antennas and that there is enough local bandwith free (you have no influence on the last part). Good routers will check automatically for free channels and change accordingly or they at least let you choose manually.
Even then, 1300Mbit is utopic. A lot of Bandwith get's used up to establish a connection in the first place, then there is scattering etc.
Number of Channels and Frequenzy - Theoretical Bandwith - Realsitic max. Bandwith
802.11ac
3 / 80MHZ - 1300 Mbit/s - 650 Mbit/s
2 / 80 MHz - 866 Mbit/s - 300 Mbit/s
1 / 80 MHz - 433 Mbit/s - 200 Mbit/s
3 / 40 MHz - 600 Mbit/s - 220 Mbit/s
2 / 40 MHz - 400 Mbit/s - 180 Mbit/s
1 / 40 MHz - 200 Mbit/s - 90 Mbit/s
3 / 20 MHz - 260 Mbit/s - 120 Mbit/s
2 / 20 MHz - 173 Mbit/s - 80 Mbit/s
1 / 20 MHz - 86 Mbit/s - 40 Mbit/s
802.11n
3 / 40 MHz - 450 Mbit/s - 200 Mbit/s
2 / 40 MHz - 300 Mbit/s - 150 Mbit/s
1 / 40 MHz - 150 Mbit/s - 75 Mbit/s
3 / 20 MHz - 195 Mbit/s - 90 Mbit/s
2 / 20 MHz - 130 Mbit/s - 60 Mbit/s
1 / 20 MHz - 65 Mbit/s - 30 Mbit/s
There are of course more methods.
Thank you, I knew that both have to work at the same speed, but basically with a receiver capable of 1300mbps and a router capable of 867mbps the realistic scenario is navigating at a 300mbps speed?
This thread has probably been asked this a bunch of times already but what are some good 1440p or 4k monitors? I was about to buy dell's s2719dgf monitor but since it's a TN display monitor, I decided to go against it. Can someone recommend something better that than? Something around the same price range or maybe more wouldn't be too bad. Freesync is a plus. Max I'm willing to spend is like around $600.
I'd be wary of that model to be honest. It's known for having uniformity issues. Pretty bad ones in some cases. That said I guess if you don't notice that sort of thing it's okay.Samsung C27HG70 ~$500
27" 1440p/144Hz/FreeSync 2/ curved VA panel.
Very good image quality in SDR. Blue and red can have a neon like touch to them. Nothing worrying or negative, just a qVA thing. Very good black levels! It's a good monitor if you need/want free sync.
Can also be used in HDR mode. Wouldn't recommend though. HDR image quality is terrible, the monitor just does not have enough peak brightness and diming zones to make HDR work. Doesn't change the fact that it offers great IQ in standard definition. I'd buy a G-Sync version in a heartbeat.
It has also a very nice 4k feature for PS4Pro: It accepts native 4k signals and PS4Pro thinks it is a native 4k display. You get a beautiful, super sampled 1440p image this way.
My current PC is having power issues in that after going to sleep or being off for a while, I can't turn it back on.
The motherboard has a back-lit power button but even that doesn't come on unless I remove and then reinsert the 24 pin motherboard connector. This lunch time I had to strip the whole thing down before it came on.
After that, it's fine - I can run Office, browse and play games without issues.
On the assumption that it's just my PSU which needs replacing - what's a sensible model/price (GBP) these days?
I've got the Corsair TXM 550W earmarked as the replacement - is this reasonable?
Current setup for those wondering:
Intel Core i5 4670k (stock clocked)
Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H
2 x 8 GB DDR3 running at 2,133 Mhz (Although the RAM supports it, my Mobo won't post if I try 2,400 Mhz)
512 GB Samsung 850 Pro SSD
3 TB Western Digital Blue
Asus Strix GTX 970 OC
Corsair HX850 (850W PSU - yeah I know, overkill for the above)
If it is however my mobo, what do you think of this as a replacement:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Stuff to buy:
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7GHz 8-Core Processor (£287.99 @ Aria PC)
I could drop down to a 2600X as I only need it for games, not streaming or any other stuff.
Motherboard: Asus - Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£164.99 @ Ebuyer)
Also considering the Gigabyte X470 Ultra Gaming which is about £30 cheaper or the Asus Strix B450-F which is £15 cheaper again but I worry that a 2600X/2700X would be a bad pairing with B450.
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£140.80 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair - TXM Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£67.99 @ Amazon UK)
Stuff to reuse:
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-U12S SE-AM4 CPU Cooler (£52.47 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung - 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£207.99 @ Box Limited)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (£75.50 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card
Case: Corsair - 550D ATX Mid Tower Case
What's the exact model?
Unless you live in a very hot region 89°C sounds too high, even for AMD 200 series. Should be ~10°C lower, even on cheap models. You card is maybe even throtteling to not cross the 90°C line.
Make sure every fan is spinning, clean from dirt and dust, reaplly thermal paste, make sure your case fans work well and are able to supply fresh air into the system and hot air out of it.
You will be fine in terms of PCI-E slotsI built my first PC in June 2011, following a video that Tested had made using their exact build. I am now about to build a new PC for the first time since then, and I have some questions. I don't know much about this stuff.
I am starting completely fresh, and have put this together so far using PCPartPicker (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/3czCtg):
CPU: Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X72 Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus - ROG MAXIMUS XI CODE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair - Dominator Platinum 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: LG - BH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
1. For the video card, I wanted the EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 ULTRA GAMING version, but I couldn't add it to my list. Is that because of a compatibility issue with my build? Is there any other difference that and the XC Ultra Gaming I added besides boost clock and texture fill rate?
2. At the bottom of my PCPartPicker list, it says "*Some physical dimension restrictions cannot (yet) be automatically checked, such as cpu cooler / RAM clearance with modules using tall heat spreaders." Is there an issue with my RAM and the CPU cooler I chose? Should it all fit fine?
3. Regarding RAM, I have 4 slots available on the motherboard I chose. I am doing 32 GB RAM and was wondering if the 2x16 combo is better or the same as a 4x8 combo.
4. My main concern with my build is PCI-E slots and being able to fit what I need. I want to get a wireless adapter for my HTC Vive that says "Spare PCIe 1x slot required", and I also want to get an AVerMedia Live Gamer 4K capture card, so I can record 4K 60 FPS HDR game footage. I know next to nothing about PCI-E slots and am not sure if I have ever used them. The AVerMedia website says the capture card uses a PCI-Express Gen 2 x4 interface. Will I be OK having both of these in my build? Should there be enough slots and room for everything?
This PC will be mainly used for VR, games, and editing 4K video. If you have any suggestions on parts I should change, let me know!
Thank you!
Vive on the top, it is one slot
You will be fine in terms of PCI-E slots
Vive on the top, it is one slot
The 2080ti on the first x16 PCI-E, and the mobo is designed for such a thick card
Capture card on the second x16 PCI-E
You are right. My bad. I am used to 40 Lanes :PYou'll want to move the capture card down to the last PCIE slot, or make the decision that you're ok with dropping your GPU to 8x PCIE lanes. That's what'll happen when you put anything in the second PCIE x16 slot.
I built my first PC in June 2011, following a video that Tested had made using their exact build. I am now about to build a new PC for the first time since then, and I have some questions. I don't know much about this stuff.
I am starting completely fresh, and have put this together so far using PCPartPicker (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/3czCtg):
CPU: Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X72 Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus - ROG MAXIMUS XI CODE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair - Dominator Platinum 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: LG - BH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
1. For the video card, I wanted the EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 ULTRA GAMING version, but I couldn't add it to my list. Is that because of a compatibility issue with my build? Is there any other difference that and the XC Ultra Gaming I added besides boost clock and texture fill rate?
2. At the bottom of my PCPartPicker list, it says "*Some physical dimension restrictions cannot (yet) be automatically checked, such as cpu cooler / RAM clearance with modules using tall heat spreaders." Is there an issue with my RAM and the CPU cooler I chose? Should it all fit fine?
3. Regarding RAM, I have 4 slots available on the motherboard I chose. I am doing 32 GB RAM and was wondering if the 2x16 combo is better or the same as a 4x8 combo.
4. My main concern with my build is PCI-E slots and being able to fit what I need. I want to get a wireless adapter for my HTC Vive that says "Spare PCIe 1x slot required", and I also want to get an AVerMedia Live Gamer 4K capture card, so I can record 4K 60 FPS HDR game footage. I know next to nothing about PCI-E slots and am not sure if I have ever used them. The AVerMedia website says the capture card uses a PCI-Express Gen 2 x4 interface. Will I be OK having both of these in my build? Should there be enough slots and room for everything?
This PC will be mainly used for VR, games, and editing 4K video. If you have any suggestions on parts I should change, let me know!
Thank you!
Are NVME drives worth it just for general gaming/everyday use? I currently have a 1TB Sandisk SSD that I got like two years ago, and a 1TB HDD that I use for general multimedia, docs, backups. That said, my motherboard has an m.2 NVME port available. Keep eyeing sales on /r/buildapcsales and I'm tempted to pick one up, but they're usually a bit more than regular m.2 1tb SSD in pricing.
Ryzen 5 1600 6-core processor 3.2 GHz w/ Wraith Spire Cooler
ASROCK Fatality AB350 Gaming K4 Motherboard - VR Ready
DDR4 G.Skill Tridentz 16GB RGB 2133-3200 MHz
GTX 970 4GB Graphics Card
550W PSU - Rosewill Gold Certified
RL2455HM BenQ Monitor - 24 Inch 1920 x 1080p 60Hz
Looking at the reviews, I'm a bit worried to pull the trigger.Samsung C27HG70 ~$500
27" 1440p/144Hz/FreeSync 2/ curved VA panel.
Very good image quality in SDR. Blue and red can have a neon like touch to them. Nothing worrying or negative, just a qVA thing. Very good black levels! It's a good monitor if you need/want free sync.
Can also be used in HDR mode. Wouldn't recommend though. HDR image quality is terrible, the monitor just does not have enough peak brightness and diming zones to make HDR work. Doesn't change the fact that it offers great IQ in standard definition. I'd buy a G-Sync version in a heartbeat.
It has also a very nice 4k feature for PS4Pro: It accepts native 4k signals and PS4Pro thinks it is a native 4k display. You get a beautiful, super sampled 1440p image this way.
I picked up the Google WiFI three pack, and it's amazing. I have my base access point in the living room, and then I have a second one in my office where my computer is at. I have my computer plugged into the access point in my office, and it runs at wired speeds. It's very impressive. I think the three pack was like $270, but it is worth it, and I'm pretty set when it comes to home networking for the foreseeable future.Hi all. I am looking to replace my router. I am definitely looking for a router that has extremely good reliability, good range, and good quality of service features/handle NAT issues well. Currently i use an asus rt-n66u with last legacy version of Merlin on in but it is running into stability issues.
My current PC is having power issues in that after going to sleep or being off for a while, I can't turn it back on.
The motherboard has a back-lit power button but even that doesn't come on unless I remove and then reinsert the 24 pin motherboard connector. This lunch time I had to strip the whole thing down before it came on.
After that, it's fine - I can run Office, browse and play games without issues.
On the assumption that it's just my PSU which needs replacing - what's a sensible model/price (GBP) these days?
I've got the Corsair TXM 550W earmarked as the replacement - is this reasonable?
Current setup for those wondering:
Intel Core i5 4670k (stock clocked)
Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H
2 x 8 GB DDR3 running at 2,133 Mhz (Although the RAM supports it, my Mobo won't post if I try 2,400 Mhz)
512 GB Samsung 850 Pro SSD
3 TB Western Digital Blue
Asus Strix GTX 970 OC
Corsair HX850 (850W PSU - yeah I know, overkill for the above)
If it is however my mobo, what do you think of this as a replacement:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Stuff to buy:
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7GHz 8-Core Processor (£287.99 @ Aria PC)
I could drop down to a 2600X as I only need it for games, not streaming or any other stuff.
Motherboard: Asus - Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£164.99 @ Ebuyer)
Also considering the Gigabyte X470 Ultra Gaming which is about £30 cheaper or the Asus Strix B450-F which is £15 cheaper again but I worry that a 2600X/2700X would be a bad pairing with B450.
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£140.80 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair - TXM Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£67.99 @ Amazon UK)
Stuff to reuse:
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-U12S SE-AM4 CPU Cooler (£52.47 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung - 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£207.99 @ Box Limited)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (£75.50 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card
Case: Corsair - 550D ATX Mid Tower Case
The 38 incher is 1600 tall though, unless you have something different than the 3818? I do like this new width but don't think I can give up that extra screen height for desktop work.Not gonna lie. I totally want this. I bought the 38" version of this at the beginning of this year for about $1400 and I'm kind of kicking myself now.
I've decided it's time to upgrade my soon decade old HTPC. Will keep the Node 202 case and the original 450w PSU
I've settled for a Ryzen 1600 with the Wraith Spire cooler and 1 stick of 8GB DDR4 3000Mhz ram, but I can't for the life of me decide on a m-itx AM4 board. Its not even that many to choose from lol.
I'm looking at a max $150 pricetag for the motherboard. Help me ERA.
I would prefer dual channel 5Ghz WiFi, atleast 1 m.2 slot and good overclocking.
I'll probably buy a used 1060 6GB for now, but
in time I will add a beefier PSU and a GTX 1080Ti or 2080. If I have the patience maybe wait for a next gen card.
Looking at the reviews, I'm a bit worried to pull the trigger.