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inner-G

Banned
Oct 27, 2017
14,473
PNW
My PC crapped out on me this past weekend. Wasn't planning on rebuilding until next year but I have to now :/

Specs:

CPU: i5 8600K 3.6GHz
MOBO: MSI Z370+
RAM: 32GB DDR4
PSU: CX 850M
GPU: GTX 1080 FE
Storage: 250GB SSD
Storage: 4TB HDD
What happened to your PC?

I'd go with 16GB Ram and put that extra $ into a 1080ti in that build
 

spad3

Member
Oct 30, 2017
7,122
California
What happened to your PC?

I'd go with 16GB Ram and put that extra $ into a 1080ti in that build

had a power surge at my place and fried my mobo :( so instead of replacing that i'm just rebuilding pretty much everything. that 1080 is from my current build, not rebuying a GPU until I can save up for the 2080 titan next year. waiting on that, my 1080 can handle everything rn.
 

Merrill

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,835
Halifax
Hey guys,

My friends son needs a new PC for gaming. He has a monitor and keyboard etc. Just need a new actual PC. $2000 cdn is the budget. Anyone willing to help on a build so I can recommend it to her?
 
OP
OP
Soda

Soda

Member
Oct 26, 2017
8,866
Dunedin, New Zealand
My PC crapped out on me this past weekend. Wasn't planning on rebuilding until next year but I have to now :/

Specs:

CPU: i5 8600K 3.6GHz
MOBO: MSI Z370+
RAM: 32GB DDR4
PSU: CX 850M
GPU: GTX 1080 FE
Storage: 250GB SSD
Storage: 4TB HDD

If this is for gaming, get 16 GB of RAM. You can add 16 GB more in a few years if needed, but I doubt you'll ever need that much.

What happened to your old PC? Might be fixable if you're up for some diagnosing.
 

inner-G

Banned
Oct 27, 2017
14,473
PNW
had a power surge at my place and fried my mobo :( so instead of replacing that i'm just rebuilding pretty much everything. that 1080 is from my current build, not rebuying a GPU until I can save up for the 2080 titan next year. waiting on that, my 1080 can handle everything rn.
Ah, dig it. I'd still go with 16gb if you're mostly gaming. Nothing really uses more than that, you could use it as a start to saving for that titan
 

Deleted member 5876

Big Seller
Banned
Oct 25, 2017
2,559
so these are starting to get IPS panels:

https://www.anandtech.com/show/13478/dell-u4919dw-curved-display

5120x1440
49" IPS
60hz
$1700

U4919dw_km717_shutterstock_337921478_678x452.jpg

Not gonna lie. I totally want this. I bought the 38" version of this at the beginning of this year for about $1400 and I'm kind of kicking myself now.
 

Lakeside

Member
Oct 25, 2017
9,218
so these are starting to get IPS panels:

https://www.anandtech.com/show/13478/dell-u4919dw-curved-display

5120x1440
49" IPS
60hz
$1700

U4919dw_km717_shutterstock_337921478_678x452.jpg

That looks pretty hot. I have a flat 34" LG that's 3440x1440 and it's been great.. super good for work, black levels are meh but it's been a great multipurpose display. I'd prefer the next one have better blacks and G-Sync but who knows ..

Got a Ghost S1 ordered this AM (Jan ship tho) and have a 9900k that'll hopefully be inbound by end of week.. looking forward to some good upgrades.
 

Okabe

Is Sometimes A Good Bean
Member
Aug 24, 2018
19,922
Never really paid attention to how hot my computer case can get but after blops4 I thought to myself this is sounding pretty loud (which I understand why) but now I have this weird fear of everything setting on fire. Game runs fine I'm not maxing out nor am I near close to going over VRAM needed but I'm noticing my gpu hits 89 degrees at times.

Specs are

AMD R9285 2 GB
I3 2100 @ 3.1 Ghz
16 Gigs of DDR3

Running the game on 1400x900 with everything on full but textures on low .

I tried to just limit my CPU fan speed since that's what seems to be making all the noise but I can hear it go from silent to WRRRR back to silent to WRRR again. So I just left it back on automatic.

Any programs that might help me out here ? Buying a cooler at the moment isn't in my budget currently.
 

Isee

Avenger
Oct 25, 2017
6,235
Never really paid attention to how hot my computer case can get but after blops4 I thought to myself this is sounding pretty loud (which I understand why) but now I have this weird fear of everything setting on fire. Game runs fine I'm not maxing out nor am I near close to going over VRAM needed but I'm noticing my gpu hits 89 degrees at times.

Specs are

AMD R9285 2 GB
I3 2100 @ 3.1 Ghz
16 Gigs of DDR3

Running the game on 1400x900 with everything on full but textures on low .

I tried to just limit my CPU fan speed since that's what seems to be making all the noise but I can hear it go from silent to WRRRR back to silent to WRRR again. So I just left it back on automatic.

Any programs that might help me out here ? Buying a cooler at the moment isn't in my budget currently.

No programm can help you here. Only valid software solution is to limit the amount of work your CPU has to do (e.g. by limiting the fps to 30).

Reapply the thermal paste between your CPU and the cooler. Clean the fanblades from dust.
If that doesn't help: Open the case. You can also point a pedestal fan (or whatever you use during hot summer days) at the PC interiour.
 

Okabe

Is Sometimes A Good Bean
Member
Aug 24, 2018
19,922
No programm can help you here. Only valid software solution is to limit the amount of work your CPU has to do (e.g. by limiting the fps to 30).

Reapply the thermal paste between your CPU and the cooler. Clean the fanblades from dust.
If that doesn't help: Open the case. You can also point a pedestal fan (or whatever you use during hot summer days) at the PC interiour.


Oh, wait sorry it's my GPU causing all the noise and heat turns out not CPU. Is my GPU hitting 89 while playing alright?
 

Isee

Avenger
Oct 25, 2017
6,235
Oh, wait sorry it's my GPU causing all the noise and heat turns out not CPU. Is my GPU hitting 89 while playing alright?

What's the exact model?
Unless you live in a very hot region 89°C sounds too high, even for AMD 200 series. Should be ~10°C lower, even on cheap models. You card is maybe even throtteling to not cross the 90°C line.
Make sure every fan is spinning, clean from dirt and dust, reaplly thermal paste, make sure your case fans work well and are able to supply fresh air into the system and hot air out of it.
 
Oct 25, 2017
538
I have a stupid question about modems and wifi receivers.
Let's say I have a router/modem with a wireless speed on 5GHz up to 867mbps. Now, let's say I have a wifi adapter that can go to 1300mbps.
Of course the maximum theoretical output will always be 867mbps.
Now, this 867 usually is lower due to walls etc, so let's say you lose 200 mbps it would actally be 667 mbps between the router and the receiver. But, this is considering how far the router can send its signal and how far can the receiver get it, right?
My question is: if the wifi is receiver, can it get a better wifi signal from the router and get closer to the 867 speed? In particular, since it starts from 1300, it could lose 500mbps and get to 800.
I'm a little confused about wifi stuff

edit: A scheme to explain what's on my mind

Code:
             867                   500
Router ------------>  |    |  ----------->  Receiver
       <------------  |    |  <-----------
               800                  1300
That's a wall in the center
 

Isee

Avenger
Oct 25, 2017
6,235
I have a stupid question about modems and wifi receivers.
Let's say I have a router/modem with a wireless speed on 5GHz up to 867mbps. Now, let's say I have a wifi adapter that can go to 1300mbps.
Of course the maximum theoretical output will always be 867mbps.
Now, this 867 usually is lower due to walls etc, so let's say you lose 200 mbps it would actally be 667 mbps between the router and the receiver. But, this is considering how far the router can send its signal and how far can the receiver get it, right?
My question is: if the wifi is receiver, can it get a better wifi signal from the router and get closer to the 867 speed? In particular, since it starts from 1300, it could lose 500mbps and get to 800.
I'm a little confused about wifi stuff

edit: A scheme to explain what's on my mind

Code:
             867                   500
Router ------------>  |    |  ----------->  Receiver
       <------------  |    |  <-----------
               800                  1300
That's a wall in the center

802.11ac?

It's not just the walls. Amount of Antennas and amount of free channels is also important.
To reach the full 1300mbit/s potential both the Receiver and the Router have to communicate simulteanously across three 5GHz spatzial streams (3x3mimo:3). You futher need enough "local area" bandwith (free channels). Depending on how many of your neighbours are also on 5GHz routers this may be impossible to achieve.

In the end you need to make sure that both your router and the receiving device have 802.11ac, have at least 3 antennas and that there is enough local bandwith free (you have no influence on the last part). Good routers will check automatically for free channels and change accordingly or they at least let you choose manually.

Even then, 1300Mbit is utopic. A lot of Bandwith get's used up to establish a connection in the first place, then there is scattering etc.

Number of Channels and Frequenzy - Theoretical Bandwith - Realsitic max. Bandwith

802.11ac
3 / 80MHZ - 1300 Mbit/s - 650 Mbit/s
2 / 80 MHz - 866 Mbit/s - 300 Mbit/s
1 / 80 MHz - 433 Mbit/s - 200 Mbit/s
3 / 40 MHz - 600 Mbit/s - 220 Mbit/s
2 / 40 MHz - 400 Mbit/s - 180 Mbit/s
1 / 40 MHz - 200 Mbit/s - 90 Mbit/s
3 / 20 MHz - 260 Mbit/s - 120 Mbit/s
2 / 20 MHz - 173 Mbit/s - 80 Mbit/s
1 / 20 MHz - 86 Mbit/s - 40 Mbit/s

802.11n
3 / 40 MHz - 450 Mbit/s - 200 Mbit/s
2 / 40 MHz - 300 Mbit/s - 150 Mbit/s
1 / 40 MHz - 150 Mbit/s - 75 Mbit/s
3 / 20 MHz - 195 Mbit/s - 90 Mbit/s
2 / 20 MHz - 130 Mbit/s - 60 Mbit/s
1 / 20 MHz - 65 Mbit/s - 30 Mbit/s

There are of course more methods.
 
Oct 25, 2017
538
802.11ac?

It's not just the walls. Amount of Antennas and amount of free channels is also important.
To reach the full 1300mbit/s potential both the Receiver and the Router have to communicate simulteanously across three 5GHz spatzial streams (3x3mimo:3). You futher need enough "local area" bandwith (free channels). Depending on how many of your neighbours are also on 5GHz routers this may be impossible to achieve.

In the end you need to make sure that both your router and the receiving device have 802.11ac, have at least 3 antennas and that there is enough local bandwith free (you have no influence on the last part). Good routers will check automatically for free channels and change accordingly or they at least let you choose manually.

Even then, 1300Mbit is utopic. A lot of Bandwith get's used up to establish a connection in the first place, then there is scattering etc.

Number of Channels and Frequenzy - Theoretical Bandwith - Realsitic max. Bandwith

802.11ac
3 / 80MHZ - 1300 Mbit/s - 650 Mbit/s
2 / 80 MHz - 866 Mbit/s - 300 Mbit/s
1 / 80 MHz - 433 Mbit/s - 200 Mbit/s
3 / 40 MHz - 600 Mbit/s - 220 Mbit/s
2 / 40 MHz - 400 Mbit/s - 180 Mbit/s
1 / 40 MHz - 200 Mbit/s - 90 Mbit/s
3 / 20 MHz - 260 Mbit/s - 120 Mbit/s
2 / 20 MHz - 173 Mbit/s - 80 Mbit/s
1 / 20 MHz - 86 Mbit/s - 40 Mbit/s

802.11n
3 / 40 MHz - 450 Mbit/s - 200 Mbit/s
2 / 40 MHz - 300 Mbit/s - 150 Mbit/s
1 / 40 MHz - 150 Mbit/s - 75 Mbit/s
3 / 20 MHz - 195 Mbit/s - 90 Mbit/s
2 / 20 MHz - 130 Mbit/s - 60 Mbit/s
1 / 20 MHz - 65 Mbit/s - 30 Mbit/s

There are of course more methods.
Thank you, I knew that both have to work at the same speed, but basically with a receiver capable of 1300mbps and a router capable of 867mbps the realistic scenario is navigating at a 300mbps speed?
 

Isee

Avenger
Oct 25, 2017
6,235
Thank you, I knew that both have to work at the same speed, but basically with a receiver capable of 1300mbps and a router capable of 867mbps the realistic scenario is navigating at a 300mbps speed?

More or less.
Your main router sending three (or even eight) spatial streams to the repeater/second router doesn't help much if the second router is only able to send/receive two spatial streams in the first place.
 

the_bromo_tachi

The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
1,366
Japan
This thread has probably been asked this a bunch of times already but what are some good 1440p or 4k monitors? I was about to buy dell's s2719dgf monitor but since it's a TN display monitor, I decided to go against it. Can someone recommend something better that than? Something around the same price range or maybe more wouldn't be too bad. Freesync is a plus. Max I'm willing to spend is like around $600.
 

Isee

Avenger
Oct 25, 2017
6,235
This thread has probably been asked this a bunch of times already but what are some good 1440p or 4k monitors? I was about to buy dell's s2719dgf monitor but since it's a TN display monitor, I decided to go against it. Can someone recommend something better that than? Something around the same price range or maybe more wouldn't be too bad. Freesync is a plus. Max I'm willing to spend is like around $600.

Samsung C27HG70 ~$500

27" 1440p/144Hz/FreeSync 2/ curved VA panel.

Very good image quality in SDR. Blue and red can have a neon like touch to them. Nothing worrying or negative, just a qVA thing. Very good black levels! It's a good monitor if you need/want free sync.
Can also be used in HDR mode. Wouldn't recommend though. HDR image quality is terrible, the monitor just does not have enough peak brightness and diming zones to make HDR work. Doesn't change the fact that it offers great IQ in standard definition. I'd buy a G-Sync version in a heartbeat.

It has also a very nice 4k feature for PS4Pro: It accepts native 4k signals and PS4Pro thinks it is a native 4k display. You get a beautiful, super sampled 1440p image this way.
 

Zafir

Member
Oct 25, 2017
7,033
Samsung C27HG70 ~$500

27" 1440p/144Hz/FreeSync 2/ curved VA panel.

Very good image quality in SDR. Blue and red can have a neon like touch to them. Nothing worrying or negative, just a qVA thing. Very good black levels! It's a good monitor if you need/want free sync.
Can also be used in HDR mode. Wouldn't recommend though. HDR image quality is terrible, the monitor just does not have enough peak brightness and diming zones to make HDR work. Doesn't change the fact that it offers great IQ in standard definition. I'd buy a G-Sync version in a heartbeat.

It has also a very nice 4k feature for PS4Pro: It accepts native 4k signals and PS4Pro thinks it is a native 4k display. You get a beautiful, super sampled 1440p image this way.
I'd be wary of that model to be honest. It's known for having uniformity issues. Pretty bad ones in some cases. That said I guess if you don't notice that sort of thing it's okay.
 

ieu

Member
Oct 26, 2017
254
Mid Wales
My current PC is having power issues in that after going to sleep or being off for a while, I can't turn it back on.
The motherboard has a back-lit power button but even that doesn't come on unless I remove and then reinsert the 24 pin motherboard connector. This lunch time I had to strip the whole thing down before it came on.

After that, it's fine - I can run Office, browse and play games without issues.

On the assumption that it's just my PSU which needs replacing - what's a sensible model/price (GBP) these days?
I've got the Corsair TXM 550W earmarked as the replacement - is this reasonable?

Current setup for those wondering:
Intel Core i5 4670k (stock clocked)
Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H
2 x 8 GB DDR3 running at 2,133 Mhz (Although the RAM supports it, my Mobo won't post if I try 2,400 Mhz)
512 GB Samsung 850 Pro SSD
3 TB Western Digital Blue
Asus Strix GTX 970 OC
Corsair HX850 (850W PSU - yeah I know, overkill for the above)

If it is however my mobo, what do you think of this as a replacement:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Stuff to buy:
CPU:
AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7GHz 8-Core Processor (£287.99 @ Aria PC)
I could drop down to a 2600X as I only need it for games, not streaming or any other stuff.
Motherboard: Asus - Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£164.99 @ Ebuyer)
Also considering the Gigabyte X470 Ultra Gaming which is about £30 cheaper or the Asus Strix B450-F which is £15 cheaper again but I worry that a 2600X/2700X would be a bad pairing with B450.
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£140.80 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair - TXM Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£67.99 @ Amazon UK)

Stuff to reuse:
CPU Cooler:
Noctua - NH-U12S SE-AM4 CPU Cooler (£52.47 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung - 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£207.99 @ Box Limited)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (£75.50 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card
Case: Corsair - 550D ATX Mid Tower Case
 
OP
OP
Soda

Soda

Member
Oct 26, 2017
8,866
Dunedin, New Zealand
My current PC is having power issues in that after going to sleep or being off for a while, I can't turn it back on.
The motherboard has a back-lit power button but even that doesn't come on unless I remove and then reinsert the 24 pin motherboard connector. This lunch time I had to strip the whole thing down before it came on.

After that, it's fine - I can run Office, browse and play games without issues.

On the assumption that it's just my PSU which needs replacing - what's a sensible model/price (GBP) these days?
I've got the Corsair TXM 550W earmarked as the replacement - is this reasonable?

Current setup for those wondering:
Intel Core i5 4670k (stock clocked)
Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H
2 x 8 GB DDR3 running at 2,133 Mhz (Although the RAM supports it, my Mobo won't post if I try 2,400 Mhz)
512 GB Samsung 850 Pro SSD
3 TB Western Digital Blue
Asus Strix GTX 970 OC
Corsair HX850 (850W PSU - yeah I know, overkill for the above)

If it is however my mobo, what do you think of this as a replacement:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Stuff to buy:
CPU:
AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7GHz 8-Core Processor (£287.99 @ Aria PC)
I could drop down to a 2600X as I only need it for games, not streaming or any other stuff.
Motherboard: Asus - Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£164.99 @ Ebuyer)
Also considering the Gigabyte X470 Ultra Gaming which is about £30 cheaper or the Asus Strix B450-F which is £15 cheaper again but I worry that a 2600X/2700X would be a bad pairing with B450.
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£140.80 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair - TXM Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£67.99 @ Amazon UK)

Stuff to reuse:
CPU Cooler:
Noctua - NH-U12S SE-AM4 CPU Cooler (£52.47 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung - 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£207.99 @ Box Limited)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (£75.50 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card
Case: Corsair - 550D ATX Mid Tower Case

That Corsair PSU will work well. Should be totally fine for your current or new system. Hopefully that PSU replacement resolves your issues.

As for 2600 vs 2700: I'm tempted to say go for the 2600X and save a bit of money, but either choice will be great assuming they're within your budget. If you are looking at motherboards, look at the VRM quality/phasing. Some B450 boards have identical VRM setups as X470 boards, so you're not necessarily getting something that is a better pairing with your CPU just because you spend more for an X470. With that said, a "good" B450 board is probably more than enough for your 2600X, but I agree that if you get a 2700X, aim for a "good" X470 board.
 

VirtuaModel

Avenger
Oct 25, 2017
1,713
Edit: Bought all the parts. Thanks for your help!

I built my first PC in June 2011, following a video that Tested had made using their exact build. I am now about to build a new PC for the first time since then, and I have some questions. I don't know much about this stuff.

I am starting completely fresh, and have put this together so far using PCPartPicker (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/3czCtg):

CPU: Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X72 Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus - ROG MAXIMUS XI CODE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair - Dominator Platinum 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: LG - BH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer

1. *removed question*

2. At the bottom of my PCPartPicker list, it says "*Some physical dimension restrictions cannot (yet) be automatically checked, such as cpu cooler / RAM clearance with modules using tall heat spreaders." Is there an issue with my RAM and the CPU cooler I chose? Should it all fit fine?

3. Regarding RAM, I have 4 slots available on the motherboard I chose. I am doing 32 GB RAM and was wondering if the 2x16 combo is better or the same as a 4x8 combo.

4. My main concern with my build is PCI-E slots and being able to fit what I need. I want to get a wireless adapter for my HTC Vive that says "Spare PCIe 1x slot required", and I also want to get an AVerMedia Live Gamer 4K capture card, so I can record 4K 60 FPS HDR game footage. I know next to nothing about PCI-E slots and am not sure if I have ever used them. The AVerMedia website says the capture card uses a PCI-Express Gen 2 x4 interface. Will I be OK having both of these in my build? Should there be enough slots and room for everything?

This PC will be mainly used for VR, games, and editing 4K video. If you have any suggestions on parts I should change, let me know!

Thank you!
 
Last edited:

Okabe

Is Sometimes A Good Bean
Member
Aug 24, 2018
19,922
What's the exact model?
Unless you live in a very hot region 89°C sounds too high, even for AMD 200 series. Should be ~10°C lower, even on cheap models. You card is maybe even throtteling to not cross the 90°C line.
Make sure every fan is spinning, clean from dirt and dust, reaplly thermal paste, make sure your case fans work well and are able to supply fresh air into the system and hot air out of it.

Sorry for the late reply but it is

https://www.msi.com/pdf/presale/R9-285-GAMING-2G

This one exactly. What's weird is BlackOps4 is the only game to get my GPU to this temp/ make my computer this loud regardless of settings on low or high and anywhere in between.

Other than that my GPU idles at 35 degrees
 
Oct 29, 2017
13,501
I built my first PC in June 2011, following a video that Tested had made using their exact build. I am now about to build a new PC for the first time since then, and I have some questions. I don't know much about this stuff.

I am starting completely fresh, and have put this together so far using PCPartPicker (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/3czCtg):

CPU: Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X72 Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus - ROG MAXIMUS XI CODE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair - Dominator Platinum 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: LG - BH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer

1. For the video card, I wanted the EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 ULTRA GAMING version, but I couldn't add it to my list. Is that because of a compatibility issue with my build? Is there any other difference that and the XC Ultra Gaming I added besides boost clock and texture fill rate?

2. At the bottom of my PCPartPicker list, it says "*Some physical dimension restrictions cannot (yet) be automatically checked, such as cpu cooler / RAM clearance with modules using tall heat spreaders." Is there an issue with my RAM and the CPU cooler I chose? Should it all fit fine?

3. Regarding RAM, I have 4 slots available on the motherboard I chose. I am doing 32 GB RAM and was wondering if the 2x16 combo is better or the same as a 4x8 combo.

4. My main concern with my build is PCI-E slots and being able to fit what I need. I want to get a wireless adapter for my HTC Vive that says "Spare PCIe 1x slot required", and I also want to get an AVerMedia Live Gamer 4K capture card, so I can record 4K 60 FPS HDR game footage. I know next to nothing about PCI-E slots and am not sure if I have ever used them. The AVerMedia website says the capture card uses a PCI-Express Gen 2 x4 interface. Will I be OK having both of these in my build? Should there be enough slots and room for everything?

This PC will be mainly used for VR, games, and editing 4K video. If you have any suggestions on parts I should change, let me know!

Thank you!
You will be fine in terms of PCI-E slots
Vive on the top, it is one slot
The 2080ti on the first x16 PCI-E, and the mobo is designed for such a thick card
Edit:
Capture card on the last PCI-E slot

edit 2: or the capture card on top and the vive card at the bottom. I see the USB 3 connection for the front panel is at the bottom of the mobo, the capture card may obstruct that, but the vive card shouldn't.
 
Last edited:

Lakeside

Member
Oct 25, 2017
9,218
You will be fine in terms of PCI-E slots

Vive on the top, it is one slot
The 2080ti on the first x16 PCI-E, and the mobo is designed for such a thick card
Capture card on the second x16 PCI-E

You'll want to move the capture card down to the last PCIE slot, or make the decision that you're ok with dropping your GPU to 8x PCIE lanes. That's what'll happen when you put anything in the second PCIE x16 slot.

Edit: Note that you will lose SATA 5-6 when you do this.

Also, maybe someone else that uses capture cards can comment. When you place this card in the last PCIE slot, you are utilizing PCIE lanes through the Z390 chipset rather than directly to the CPU. This means that when it comes to CPU access, it's sharing a DMI 3.0 link (essentially 4 PCIE lanes) with your USB/SATA/M.2, etc. I assume that this isn't a problem, but it might not be a bad thing to verify.

If by any chance that presents a problem, then you need to look at HEDT parts.
 
Last edited:

ieu

Member
Oct 26, 2017
254
Mid Wales
I built my first PC in June 2011, following a video that Tested had made using their exact build. I am now about to build a new PC for the first time since then, and I have some questions. I don't know much about this stuff.

I am starting completely fresh, and have put this together so far using PCPartPicker (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/3czCtg):

CPU: Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X72 Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus - ROG MAXIMUS XI CODE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair - Dominator Platinum 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: LG - BH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer

1. For the video card, I wanted the EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 ULTRA GAMING version, but I couldn't add it to my list. Is that because of a compatibility issue with my build? Is there any other difference that and the XC Ultra Gaming I added besides boost clock and texture fill rate?

2. At the bottom of my PCPartPicker list, it says "*Some physical dimension restrictions cannot (yet) be automatically checked, such as cpu cooler / RAM clearance with modules using tall heat spreaders." Is there an issue with my RAM and the CPU cooler I chose? Should it all fit fine?

3. Regarding RAM, I have 4 slots available on the motherboard I chose. I am doing 32 GB RAM and was wondering if the 2x16 combo is better or the same as a 4x8 combo.

4. My main concern with my build is PCI-E slots and being able to fit what I need. I want to get a wireless adapter for my HTC Vive that says "Spare PCIe 1x slot required", and I also want to get an AVerMedia Live Gamer 4K capture card, so I can record 4K 60 FPS HDR game footage. I know next to nothing about PCI-E slots and am not sure if I have ever used them. The AVerMedia website says the capture card uses a PCI-Express Gen 2 x4 interface. Will I be OK having both of these in my build? Should there be enough slots and room for everything?

This PC will be mainly used for VR, games, and editing 4K video. If you have any suggestions on parts I should change, let me know!

Thank you!

2. AIO coolers don't normally encroach on RAM so you should be fine.

3. The 9900K will only support dual channel memory so there would be no benefit to having four sticks. Rather, having 2 x 16 leaves space for another 2 x 16 in the future (i.e. 4 x 16) whereas 4 x 8 means you'll have to get rid of your old RAM first. Plus if you happen to be unlucky, two sticks means there's less chance for one of them to be bad!
 

Heysoos

Prophet of Truth
Member
Nov 3, 2017
1,341
Are NVME drives worth it just for general gaming/everyday use? I currently have a 1TB Sandisk SSD that I got like two years ago, and a 1TB HDD that I use for general multimedia, docs, backups. That said, my motherboard has an m.2 NVME port available. Keep eyeing sales on /r/buildapcsales and I'm tempted to pick one up, but they're usually a bit more than regular m.2 1tb SSD in pricing.
 

ieu

Member
Oct 26, 2017
254
Mid Wales
Are NVME drives worth it just for general gaming/everyday use? I currently have a 1TB Sandisk SSD that I got like two years ago, and a 1TB HDD that I use for general multimedia, docs, backups. That said, my motherboard has an m.2 NVME port available. Keep eyeing sales on /r/buildapcsales and I'm tempted to pick one up, but they're usually a bit more than regular m.2 1tb SSD in pricing.

Not really, games don't punish storage that much and any gains to loading times will be minimal.
 
Dec 23, 2017
8,121
Ryzen 5 1600 6-core processor 3.2 GHz w/ Wraith Spire Cooler
ASROCK Fatality AB350 Gaming K4 Motherboard - VR Ready
DDR4 G.Skill Tridentz 16GB RGB 2133-3200 MHz
GTX 970 4GB Graphics Card
550W PSU - Rosewill Gold Certified
RL2455HM BenQ Monitor - 24 Inch 1920 x 1080p 60Hz

Ugh, graphic card prices are all over the place. They keep going higher and higher as we near Black Friday/Cyber Monday. Getting my hands on a 1080 Ti or similar is gonna be a pain.

I guess people are buying them now before the sales start. I honestly don't know what graphics card to get, especially if prices are this high. What sucks even more is that I have to invest in a high end monitor and possibly a new PSU too. :\
 

Veliladon

Member
Oct 27, 2017
5,558
Maximus XI Hero finally showed up. Got everything but the 9900K. Fingers crossed Amazon gets their stock quickly and out to me quickly.
 

the_bromo_tachi

The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
1,366
Japan
Samsung C27HG70 ~$500

27" 1440p/144Hz/FreeSync 2/ curved VA panel.

Very good image quality in SDR. Blue and red can have a neon like touch to them. Nothing worrying or negative, just a qVA thing. Very good black levels! It's a good monitor if you need/want free sync.
Can also be used in HDR mode. Wouldn't recommend though. HDR image quality is terrible, the monitor just does not have enough peak brightness and diming zones to make HDR work. Doesn't change the fact that it offers great IQ in standard definition. I'd buy a G-Sync version in a heartbeat.

It has also a very nice 4k feature for PS4Pro: It accepts native 4k signals and PS4Pro thinks it is a native 4k display. You get a beautiful, super sampled 1440p image this way.
Looking at the reviews, I'm a bit worried to pull the trigger.
 

DodgeAnon

Member
Oct 25, 2017
805
Bought a used Acer xb240h 24 inch 144hz G-Sync monitor on Facebook Marketplace for £90 ($118.64) and I couldn't believe it, it's in perfect condition as well.
 

bmdubya

Member
Nov 1, 2017
6,500
Colorado
Hi all. I am looking to replace my router. I am definitely looking for a router that has extremely good reliability, good range, and good quality of service features/handle NAT issues well. Currently i use an asus rt-n66u with last legacy version of Merlin on in but it is running into stability issues.
I picked up the Google WiFI three pack, and it's amazing. I have my base access point in the living room, and then I have a second one in my office where my computer is at. I have my computer plugged into the access point in my office, and it runs at wired speeds. It's very impressive. I think the three pack was like $270, but it is worth it, and I'm pretty set when it comes to home networking for the foreseeable future.
 

Buddeh

Banned
Oct 25, 2017
793
I've decided it's time to upgrade my soon decade old HTPC. Will keep the Node 202 case and the original 450w PSU

I've settled for a Ryzen 1600 with the Wraith Spire cooler and 1 stick of 8GB DDR4 3000Mhz ram, but I can't for the life of me decide on a m-itx AM4 board. Its not even that many to choose from lol.

I'm looking at a max $150 pricetag for the motherboard. Help me ERA.

I would prefer dual channel 5Ghz WiFi, atleast 1 m.2 slot and good overclocking.

I'll probably buy a used 1060 6GB for now, but
in time I will add a beefier PSU and a GTX 1080Ti or 2080. If I have the patience maybe wait for a next gen card.
 

MrBob

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,670
My current PC is having power issues in that after going to sleep or being off for a while, I can't turn it back on.
The motherboard has a back-lit power button but even that doesn't come on unless I remove and then reinsert the 24 pin motherboard connector. This lunch time I had to strip the whole thing down before it came on.

After that, it's fine - I can run Office, browse and play games without issues.

On the assumption that it's just my PSU which needs replacing - what's a sensible model/price (GBP) these days?
I've got the Corsair TXM 550W earmarked as the replacement - is this reasonable?

Current setup for those wondering:
Intel Core i5 4670k (stock clocked)
Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H
2 x 8 GB DDR3 running at 2,133 Mhz (Although the RAM supports it, my Mobo won't post if I try 2,400 Mhz)
512 GB Samsung 850 Pro SSD
3 TB Western Digital Blue
Asus Strix GTX 970 OC
Corsair HX850 (850W PSU - yeah I know, overkill for the above)

If it is however my mobo, what do you think of this as a replacement:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Stuff to buy:
CPU:
AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7GHz 8-Core Processor (£287.99 @ Aria PC)
I could drop down to a 2600X as I only need it for games, not streaming or any other stuff.
Motherboard: Asus - Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£164.99 @ Ebuyer)
Also considering the Gigabyte X470 Ultra Gaming which is about £30 cheaper or the Asus Strix B450-F which is £15 cheaper again but I worry that a 2600X/2700X would be a bad pairing with B450.
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£140.80 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair - TXM Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£67.99 @ Amazon UK)

Stuff to reuse:
CPU Cooler:
Noctua - NH-U12S SE-AM4 CPU Cooler (£52.47 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung - 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£207.99 @ Box Limited)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (£75.50 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card
Case: Corsair - 550D ATX Mid Tower Case

If it's within your budget and you don't have plans to upgrade to ryzen 2 I would stay with the 2700x. There isn't downside to having the extra 2 cores and 4 threads from the 2600x outside of price obviously. Plus you get a slightly higher turbo speed boost with the 2700x.

Also, in your stuff to reuse part, if you don't have the am4 mounting kit for your u12s you will either have to contact noctua to get one or have to buy one. They aren't very expensive though:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NM-...29691&sr=8-2&keywords=noctua+am4+mounting+kit

The one linked above will work with your U12S. If you have the actual AM4 version of the U12s then you shouldn't need the mounting hardware as it should be included. But I wasn't really sure because you said you have a 4670k currently and want to re-use the AM4 version of the u12s cooler, which is slightly confusing! If you don't have the AM4 version of the U12s cooler then you will need the mounting kit.
 
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astro

Member
Oct 25, 2017
56,947
Hey everyone.

I'll be building a new PC in around a month's time. I haven't built one for around 3 years, so I'm completely clueless about current prices, what's good, etc...


1) What's your budget?
£1500-2000. Lower would be better, but willing to spend more if I need to.

2) What do you want to use the computer for?
I'll be using it for gaming, and for web development.

3) How soon do you plan to purchase the parts and build it?
In around a month's time.

4) Are you going to reuse any parts (upgrading) or are you building a completely new computer from scratch?
Completely from scratch.

5) Do you only need the computer itself or do you need accessories, such as a monitor, mouse, keyboard, and speakers?
I have some decent headphones with a mic, but I'll need everything else. Mouse, keyboard, monitor, everything.

6) Are you interested in overclocking?
Sure, I overclocked both my 15 2500k and MSI 970 on my previous build.

-

Any advice before I start looking would be great, thank you!
 

drastic

Member
Oct 25, 2017
63
Not gonna lie. I totally want this. I bought the 38" version of this at the beginning of this year for about $1400 and I'm kind of kicking myself now.
The 38 incher is 1600 tall though, unless you have something different than the 3818? I do like this new width but don't think I can give up that extra screen height for desktop work.
 

evilpigking

Member
Oct 25, 2017
128
had a chance to bite on the msi 2080ti at newegg today and choked =/ guess ill wait for next time a card becomes available...sigh
 

maped

Member
Mar 7, 2018
238
I've decided it's time to upgrade my soon decade old HTPC. Will keep the Node 202 case and the original 450w PSU

I've settled for a Ryzen 1600 with the Wraith Spire cooler and 1 stick of 8GB DDR4 3000Mhz ram, but I can't for the life of me decide on a m-itx AM4 board. Its not even that many to choose from lol.

I'm looking at a max $150 pricetag for the motherboard. Help me ERA.

I would prefer dual channel 5Ghz WiFi, atleast 1 m.2 slot and good overclocking.

I'll probably buy a used 1060 6GB for now, but
in time I will add a beefier PSU and a GTX 1080Ti or 2080. If I have the patience maybe wait for a next gen card.

I'm not sure about the prices in US, but Asus Strix B450i should be at about your pricepoint. It should have just about the best power delivery and bios for overclocking since you're not going to use an apu and has the added plus of 2 m.2-slots at the price of dropping the pcie slot to x8. If you're going to overclock you should consider using two ram sticks, Ryzen really benefits from the added memory bandwidth dual channel provides. For best results Samsung b-die memory is recommended.
 

Deleted member 16452

User requested account closure
Banned
Oct 27, 2017
7,276
Hello Era PC Builders!

I have a few questions I hope someone can help me with.

So after a lot of thought and internal debate I decided to get a used GTX 1080 ti from ebay (It was this card) instead of an RTX 2080 or RTX 2080 ti.

I got it for $550 and was only used for 4 months according to the seller, was this an ok deal?

How big of an upgrade should I expect over my GTX 970?

Will my i7 6700 bottleneck me too much, or is that CPU still good?

I've been playing Black Ops 4 on a 1440p monitor and I think my 970 is finally showing its age.
 
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