Maybe something going on with power delivery to the CPU or GPU?
Never considered that, do you know how I would test it? I'll do the obvious and make sure everything is plugged in properly at least.
Maybe something going on with power delivery to the CPU or GPU?
Soooooo....
3950X and new Threadrippers to be announced in a presser today for release a week later, right?
That's a very good question ^^ I'm certainly no expert, so maybe one of the brilliant PC-ERA people here can help :)Never considered that, do you know how I would test it? I'll do the obvious and make sure everything is plugged in properly at least.
The PC in general feels a bit sluggish but I get awful stuttering with games and seeing people talk about the fps they get on similar specs, I am not getting the same.
For gaming only buy a 3600Is it worth spending 120 pounds extra to upgrade to a 3700x instead of a 3600 (~300 vs 180 pounds), coming from a i7 4790k?
Ooh, thanks for the cool suggestion! How is the TN panel treating you? I've been in the market for a monitor like this but have been looking exclusively at IPS' because of the better quality
I have a fairly old system now, but given my recent graphics card upgrade has given it a boost gaming-wise, I think it's time to add another SSD (it shipped with a 256GB SATA one). Here are my specs:
Gigabyte Z97-HD3
Intel i7 4790k
16GB DDR3
Nvidia RTX 2060
256GB Samsung SATA SSD (boot drive)
3TB mechanical HDD
My motherboard doesn't have support for NVMe built in, so I'm assuming I'm better off buying a PCIE -> M.2 adapter like this one rather than going for another SATA SSD which will likely be slower?
I'm also a bit confused in terms of what to look for with SSDs these days, as from what I've read there are different variants (NAND related I think?) and some of these are cheaper - not by much, mind - but not as good quality or as fast.
What would be a good 1TB SSD that isn't massively expensive but would offer good performance?
The Crucial CT1000P is less than £100 and I remember some of their older SSDs being well reviewed, but it seems to be QLC and getting poor reviews speed wise, especially over time. Would the WD Blue, which appears to be TLC and not much more expensive, be a good choice? Or should I up the budget to a Samsung 970 Evo or even 970 Plus?
There's also the Sabrent Rocket 2280; I've never heard of Sabrent, but the drive seems to review well, and it appears to use TLC like the WD Blue.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
I thought WD's Blue NVMe drives only went up to 500GB (the SN500). If you're looking at their M.2 SATA drives, they'll be the same speeds as 2.5" SATA drives.My motherboard doesn't have support for NVMe built in, so I'm assuming I'm better off buying a PCIE -> M.2 adapter like this one rather than going for another SATA SSD which will likely be slower?
I'm also a bit confused in terms of what to look for with SSDs these days, as from what I've read there are different variants (NAND related I think?) and some of these are cheaper - not by much, mind - but not as good quality or as fast.
What would be a good 1TB SSD that isn't massively expensive but would offer good performance?
The Crucial CT1000P is less than £100 and I remember some of their older SSDs being well reviewed, but it seems to be QLC and getting poor reviews speed wise, especially over time. Would the WD Blue, which appears to be TLC and not much more expensive, be a good choice? Or should I up the budget to a Samsung 970 Evo or even 970 Plus?
There's also the Sabrent Rocket 2280; I've never heard of Sabrent, but the drive seems to review well, and it appears to use TLC like the WD Blue.
It's going to be mostly subjective, and each brand has their own tiers of cards for a given GPU. Read "pro" reviews, if they're out there. And user reviews (with a grain of salt). And in general, very compact 1-to-2 fan cards will usually run a little hotter and/or louder than cards with larger heatsinks and 2-3 fans; I'd usually opt for a larger card with a backplate, if possible.So question:
What's usually the "best" or most reliable brand maker for these non reference video cards (Nvidia specifically since i remember some are exclusive to one of the 2 GPU makers)
Or is it completely subjective?
So question:
What's usually the "best" or most reliable brand maker for these non reference video cards (Nvidia specifically since i remember some are exclusive to one of the 2 GPU makers)
Or is it completely subjective?
EVGA are solid too, especially when it comes to warranty and service.It's going to be mostly subjective, and each brand has their own tiers of cards for a given GPU. Read "pro" reviews, if they're out there. And user reviews (with a grain of salt). And in general, very compact 1-to-2 fan cards will usually run a little hotter and/or louder than cards with larger heatsinks and 2-3 fans; I'd usually opt for a larger card with a backplate, if possible.
In my (subjective) experience, I usually assume MSI's Gaming X/Z and ASUS's STRIX to be the best options, though they carry a premium. I almost always see user reviews mention issues with Zotac's cards, and Gigabyte's low-end cards.
Yeah, I usually assume EVGA's going to be an OK choice. (A few of their 2-fan cards don't have a backplate; depends on what GPU you're looking at. Just something to check before buying.)EVGA are solid too, especially when it comes to warranty and service.
Thanks, I didn't realise that - I thought NVMe would be faster, but good to know I have more choice if sticking with SATA is an option.You're not going to notice any day-to-day difference between the PCI-E and SATA SSDs, so unless the two fewer cables is a huge plus for you just get another SATA. The Samsung EVO is tried-and-true.
Thank you. Seems yes I was mistaken, the WD drive is SATA. I also didn't realise that about the PCIE slots. I may be okay there though, as this is what Gigabyte's specs say about my motherboard:I thought WD's Blue NVMe drives only went up to 500GB (the SN500). If you're looking at their M.2 SATA drives, they'll be the same speeds as 2.5" SATA drives.
Looking on UK PCPP, for faster budget NVMe drives, the Rocket you mentioned and the ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro are decent options, quite a bit cheaper than the WD Black/970 EVO. For a secondary games drives, I wouldn't worry all that much about speed differences between different SSDs. But since these NVMe drives are getting cheaper, it doesn't seem like a bad way to go. (And you'd already have an NVMe drive when time comes to migrate to a new build.)
Note that running that PCIE adapter card will most likely limit your GPU's x16 slot to x8 (assuming your board only has x16 and x1 slots, you'd need to use a secondary x16 slot for the card). But it shouldn't make an actual difference for the 2060. Much faster cards would lose a little performance.
- 1 x PCI Express x16 slot, running at x16 (PCIEX16)
(The PCIEX16 slot conforms to PCI Express 3.0 standard.)
* For optimum performance, if only one PCI Express graphics card is to be installed, be sure to install it in the PCIEX16 slot.- 1 x PCI Express x16 slot, running at x4 (PCIEX4)
* The PCIEX4 slot shares bandwidth with the PCI Express x1 slots. The PCI Express x1 slots will become unavailable when a PCIe x4 expansion card is installed.
* When installing a x8 or above card in the PCIEX4 slot, make sure to set PCIE Slot Configuration (PCH) in BIOS Setup to x4.- 2 x PCI Express x1 slots
(The PCIEX4 and PCI Express x1 slots conform to PCI Express 2.0 standard.)- 2 x PCI slots
Yep, should be good. Your board handles PCIe differently than my old Gigabyte Z97 board.I also didn't realise that about the PCIE slots. I may be okay there though, as this is what Gigabyte's specs say about my motherboard:
It seems from this I may be okay using the adapter in the X4 slot and the GPU in the X16, provided I don't have any X1 cards (which I don't think I do but will check)?
It's going to be mostly subjective, and each brand has their own tiers of cards for a given GPU. Read "pro" reviews, if they're out there. And user reviews (with a grain of salt). And in general, very compact 1-to-2 fan cards will usually run a little hotter and/or louder than cards with larger heatsinks and 2-3 fans; I'd usually opt for a larger card with a backplate, if possible.
In my (subjective) experience, I usually assume MSI's Gaming X/Z and ASUS's STRIX to be the best options, though they carry a premium. I almost always see user reviews mention issues with Zotac's cards, and Gigabyte's low-end cards.
EVGA are solid too, especially when it comes to warranty and service.
Yeah, I usually assume EVGA's going to be an OK choice. (A few of their 2-fan cards don't have a backplate; depends on what GPU you're looking at. Just something to check before buying.)
Looked at your earlier comment for specs (new build, 3700x, 2070 Super). What's your RAM situation? Especially what speed it's currently running. Also make sure they're in the right slots to support dual-channel. How about storage?Ok think I need some help here. I was posting earlier about thinking my PC was underperforming and about benchmarks... I just ran PCMark and got this. It's telling my my roughly €1500 PC is a piece of trash. Anyone suggest what I can try do? I am on the latest NVidia driver, I updated the chipset driver straight away when I got the PC.
Looked at your earlier comment for specs (new build, 3700x, 2070 Super). What's your RAM situation? Especially what speed it's currently running. Also make sure they're in the right slots to support dual-channel. How about storage?
Also if this is a very new build, make sure all Windows updates are done before trying to game/run benchmarks.
Looked at your earlier comment for specs (new build, 3700x, 2070 Super). What's your RAM situation? Especially what speed it's currently running. Also make sure they're in the right slots to support dual-channel. How about storage?
Also if this is a very new build, make sure all Windows updates are done before trying to game/run benchmarks.
System monitoring with HWInfo64 or similar would also be helpful to determine that clocks are where they should be.
HWInfo64 is saying the base frequency is 800MHz and the boost max is 4400MHz. Is that correct?
Ok think I need some help here. I was posting earlier about thinking my PC was underperforming and about benchmarks... I just ran PCMark and got this. It's telling my my roughly €1500 PC is a piece of trash. Anyone suggest what I can try do? I am on the latest NVidia driver, I updated the chipset driver straight away when I got the PC.
You enabled XMP (or whatever they call it on the AMD side) so it's running at 3200 (instead of the default 2133)?The RAM was recommended to me in this very thread, it's this. They're in the right slots, I was careful of that.
Ran Windows update last night so that's done.
Forgive me if this the wrong thread for it, but I had a question as someone who has an old gaming rig and is trying to upgrade. So I have a rig I built back in 2011 with an obsolete motherboard, CPU, GPU, etc. Would it be feasible to completely build a brand new PC capable of running 4K gaming, but still be able to use the HDD and SSD from the old PC? I wasn't too sure if there was possibly a compatibility issue or not.
Possible? Absolutely. Your SSD and HDD are SATA. New boards work with SATA just fine.
Yay!It was the BIOS. Whatever version the mobo came (F3) with seemed to put a huge cap on the CPU. I updated to F4 and it's like I have a new PC, albeit the CPU fan has started blowing which is making a bit of noise but that's ok.
In the same benchmark as the screenshot I posted earlier I've gone from being ahead of 4% of computers to being ahead of 96% of computers. I was getting really worried, so phew!
Possible? Absolutely. Your SSD and HDD are SATA. New boards work with SATA just fine.
Whether it's advisable to do so depends on what size/speed those drives are, and what kind of budget you're working with.
Ex. if you have an 80GB SSD and 1TB 5400 RPM HDD, it's so cheap to get better, faster components it doesn't make sense to re-use them. (Could toss in the HDD as a slow storage drive for media, but wouldn't use it for game installs.)
The easiest recommendation right now is get a 1TB budget NVMe drive, install Windows, then copy over any files and game installs you want to keep. If I were getting one today, I'd probably go with the HP EX950 at $130 (review) as a nice balance between price and performance. But you can spend less or more, depending on your needs and budget.Oh wow that was spooky. You're right on the money about the drives. So my best bet would be to try and transfer the contents of the HDD to a faster SSD? My old SSD just held the contents of Windows 10 OS.
I prefer EVGA. ASUS are reputable too. Probably Sapphire Tech or Power Cooler for AMD.So question:
What's usually the "best" or most reliable brand maker for these non reference video cards (Nvidia specifically since i remember some are exclusive to one of the 2 GPU makers)
Or is it completely subjective?
Have you tried unplugging everything (incl. power cable)?Updated to the latest Asus Prime x570-P BIOS and now a USB 2.0 port I was using doesn't work. Enabled it all (legacy, individual USB enabled) in the BIOS. 🙄
Notice it can power a USB device, but no data. Now, I have that with one of the two USB ports on the front of the case since I got it. One works as normal, one no data. What in the world is going on?
Have you tried unplugging everything (incl. power cable)?
You need to leave it unplugged for a while to let it drain all the power in the circuits. It helps if you press the power button a few times when it's unplugged.
It could potentially be coil whine or your HDD (if you have one), but if you're certain it's your GPU it's either coil whine or a fan. Try having the side panel open while the PC is on and stopping the fan(s) manually, but only temporary so you can make out whether it's the fan or not.Having a weird minor issue.
Every 2-3 seconds there's buzzing that winds up for a few seconds and then goes away, repeats. I thought it was because a loose wire was brushing the GPU fans slightly and I opened it up and fixed that and then I swear it was silent for like 2 days.
Now it's back. It's hard to tell where the sound is coming from, but I think it's the gpu fans? Looking on HWmonitor I don't see any fans ramping up and down back and forth so idk what would cause the sound to go up and go away.
Maybe it could be one of my older SATA HDDs I hooked up revving up but nothing is access them and they're blank now that I've moved everything off them. I guess I could test this by unplugging them. But I swear it's coming from the GPU.
Heat and everything looks fine, it's just the computer otherwise is totally silent so it's a little annoying to hear this vibrating light buzz every few seconds.
Having a weird minor issue.
Every 2-3 seconds there's buzzing that winds up for a few seconds and then goes away, repeats. I thought it was because a loose wire was brushing the GPU fans slightly and I opened it up and fixed that and then I swear it was silent for like 2 days.
Now it's back. It's hard to tell where the sound is coming from, but I think it's the gpu fans? Looking on HWmonitor I don't see any fans ramping up and down back and forth so idk what would cause the sound to go up and go away.
Maybe it could be one of my older SATA HDDs I hooked up revving up but nothing is access them and they're blank now that I've moved everything off them. I guess I could test this by unplugging them. But I swear it's coming from the GPU.
Heat and everything looks fine, it's just the computer otherwise is totally silent so it's a little annoying to hear this vibrating light buzz every few seconds.
I got mine via email when I picked up the 580.When you order a GPU from Newegg that has an AMD gift(Game Pass and a game) how do you get the codes for them? Do they come with the GPU in the mail? I never even picked if I wanted Borderlands 3 or Ghost Recon.
There's always something new on the horizon. The accepted wisdom is to buy when you've got the money. There shouldn't be any new CPU or GPU generations until at least midway through next year (barring any major surprises at CES in January).I've been considering a system upgrade (well, an entirely new purchase, more specifically) for a while and now I'm getting to the point where the money is starting to burn a hole in my pocket for how strong is the hitch to buy.
Still, I'm here wondering if there's any major hardware release I should wait for, both on GPU and CPU side.
Last thing I'd want is to go for something that will be "the past thing" weeks after the purchase.
I have a Powercolor Rx 5700 xt with the blower and I am very happy with my purchase. In my experience, a lot of what was said and reported about these blower cards was "blown" out of proportion. I suppose reviewers could only review these at stock - out of the box they do run a bit hot and loud but simple adjustment eliminates most of the problems. An hour spent undervolting the card and dialling in the settings (my standard settings) puts my card at about 74c (88c junction) when gaming with clocks above the stated game clock. Even with +50% power limit, 2100mhz overclock and an undervolt (my extreme settings) I cant hit the temps the reviewers were getting. All this is without doing any custom fan curves too. Granted, there are some things that might be working in my favour like living in the UK where the ambient room temps are lower and I'm not gaming above 60fps but I was very surprised by just how good this card is and that temps and noise can easily be brought under control with a slight bit of tinkering.Anyone here have experience with reference cards(blowers)? I ordered a 5700 xt that is on sale for $369, but just cancelled it. Seems like reviews for blowers are typically lower. Whats the odds of a 5700 xt after market card hitting that price during Black Friday?
I mean, there's an aftermarket 5700 XT at $379.99 (after rebate) today.Anyone here have experience with reference cards(blowers)? I ordered a 5700 xt that is on sale for $369, but just cancelled it. Seems like reviews for blowers are typically lower. Whats the odds of a 5700 xt after market card hitting that price during Black Friday?
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($347.66 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: *Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE ATX AM4 Motherboard ($210.94 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory (Purchased For $81.61)
Storage: *Sabrent Rocket 4.0 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($211.97 @ Amazon)
Storage: *Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($119.76 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4 GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Optical Drive: LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($70.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1042.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-06 11:45 EST-0500