I don't think we will hear about new Nvidia gaming cards until around august. But ya price will probably come down, and you'll be able to get great deals on eBay as people sell in anticipation of the new cards.
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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v3
- Thread starter Crazymoogle
- Start date
- PC Tech OT
It's still good, the worst is that he'll have to remove a drive cage for a long graphics card.
He'll be delighted to hear that. Thank you! Looks like the only compatibility issue we'll run into is the USB ports on the front being unusable, since they're 2.0.
Hey folks, in need of some advice as my GPU has finally given up the ghost.
It's an eight year old Nvidia GTX 680 (It had a good run) and now is resulting in BSOD whenever I run a gaming application. I updated the drivers, took it out and gave it a vaccum (there was a fair bit of dust) but sadly it still has the same issues. No artifacts, just either one of two things:
1) BSOD
2) The entire computer hangs, audio freezes too.
I swapped it out for another GPU (which unfortunately I am unable to keep) and the issues didn't present themselves when I was gaming, so I'm fairly certain it is the cause of the problems.
So I'd just like some advice on my options, and what you would all recommend. I'd like to make a decent upgrade. I'm not interested in VR, and I only run a 1080p monitor though I may wish to go up to 1440 at some point. 4k doesn't have much appeal for me.
I'd like to stick with Nvidia, but they're incredibly expensive right now. I took a look at AMD, and the 5700 (or XT) seem like pretty much what I need for a price I'm willing to pay (around ÂŁ300), but then I see there is advice against going in that direction due to driver issues.
My other option is to buy a refurbed RX 580 for about ÂŁ75 to tide me over until a new line of GPUs emerges. Any suggestions there?
It's an eight year old Nvidia GTX 680 (It had a good run) and now is resulting in BSOD whenever I run a gaming application. I updated the drivers, took it out and gave it a vaccum (there was a fair bit of dust) but sadly it still has the same issues. No artifacts, just either one of two things:
1) BSOD
2) The entire computer hangs, audio freezes too.
I swapped it out for another GPU (which unfortunately I am unable to keep) and the issues didn't present themselves when I was gaming, so I'm fairly certain it is the cause of the problems.
So I'd just like some advice on my options, and what you would all recommend. I'd like to make a decent upgrade. I'm not interested in VR, and I only run a 1080p monitor though I may wish to go up to 1440 at some point. 4k doesn't have much appeal for me.
I'd like to stick with Nvidia, but they're incredibly expensive right now. I took a look at AMD, and the 5700 (or XT) seem like pretty much what I need for a price I'm willing to pay (around ÂŁ300), but then I see there is advice against going in that direction due to driver issues.
My other option is to buy a refurbed RX 580 for about ÂŁ75 to tide me over until a new line of GPUs emerges. Any suggestions there?
OP
OP
The HAF 912 is...ugly, and dated, but it should fit a regular sized ATX motherboard, and as said, you might have to remove the drive tray. Actually, if you're at all worried, that's exactly what I would look at: can the drive trays be removed? (The bottom, but maybe also the top?
Beyond that, it's fine. ATX PSU and MB spec hasnt changed in decades really. (Intel is about to push a change to the PSU spec, but we've got a gen before it really takes hold.)
And you can still use USB2.0 ports on the front so long as you get a motherboard that has a USB2.0 header? If the case USB ports uses a standard 9-pin header, well, virtually every MB today has at least one USB2 header. My TUF X570 board has 2 or 3, even...
The hail mary you could try is Display Driver Uninstaller (DDU). You could use that to completely wipe drivers and then try installing again. But if that doesn't work, you're right: it's dead.
- Well, if you want 1080p, the GTX 1660 Super is excellent. If you want 1440p, the 2060 Super is a better shot.
- The 580 is fine if you want to wait out whether RTX 3000 happens in 3 months or the end of the year.
- If you want the 5700, all I can say is read opinions about the new drivers. Specifically, this AMD post, and the reddit thread below it. Use that yourself to judge; I mean we have someone here for whom its fine, but I see weird problems out there still too. Hard to say what could be fixed with, say, DDU above, or not. But the paranoia that used to be out there about AMD CPUs is still there for GPUs.
It sucks if you want to do water cooling and you want to have optimal cable routing, but it's fine besides that.
Make sure he gets a Scythe Mugen 5 Rev B CPU cooler, since a good cooler helps your AMD CPU's boost algorithms push the chip better.
Thanks for the reply - was going to look into your directions but have done a bit more fiddling and got my desktop to boot the old laptop's SSD and managed to backup my (meta)data! So, issue over, other than having to purchase another laptop!
Had an epiphany last night and actually found the problem. I cannot believe this is what was causing it. I've spent hours over a couple of months trying to find what program was doing it. So a little while after posting I was just staring at my desktop thinking what could it be...then my wallpaper changed. No way it could be the right? I've had the same set of wallpapers for 10 years and they were always stored on a server I built. I go into background settings, lo and behold it's set to change every 10 minutes. I change it to every day, played an hour of Ori and nothing, not a single drop. I cannot believe it was dropping frames so hard over changing the damn wallpaper and it only.effected this computer and not the 3 others I've built over the years.
Thanks for trying to help
Had one since launch, had a lot of issues with having to turn off certain options in the first few months. This has been fixed in the latest few driver builds and its been pretty much golden since then. Been enjoying DOOM Eternal at ultra nightmare settings on 3440x1440p without a single hitch and all my other games seem to be running fine as well. I'm not sure if the freesync flickering has finally been fixed, last time I checked it was not, but I've got freesync turned off anyway, as at higher semi-stable framerates I find I don't lose too much.
TL;DR: Its been great since the last few driver updates.
Actually @ myself, maybe I'll just go with a 1660 Super instead of a 2060. If the performance feels fine for whatever I play then I'll have saved some money, and if I want to upgrade later in the year I can.
Hi everyone. I want to ask some things about upgrading my current rig:
I need to upgrade some parts for gaming and working/studies. I consulted with my nearest PC store (PC BOX) some months ago. The staff recommended me to keep the GPU and to change my CPU and MB. I had two options:
1) To keep the Intel line and upgrade from Sky Lake to Coffee Lake.
2) To change to AMD and buying a Ryzen CPU, 2nd or 3rd generation. This was the staff's recommendation.
Both cases imply a change of MB and to reinstall my current OSes (Windows 10* and Pop!_OS), something I have no problem with. *Of course, privacy tweaks are a no-brainer.
About the budget, my top is at 350€ to just change CPU/MB and add or change RAM, also maybe change case if possible. Micro ATX is preferable, although I am considering a Mini ITX rig. Extra parts (e.g. CPU fan) are also appreciated.
I need to upgrade some parts for gaming and working/studies. I consulted with my nearest PC store (PC BOX) some months ago. The staff recommended me to keep the GPU and to change my CPU and MB. I had two options:
1) To keep the Intel line and upgrade from Sky Lake to Coffee Lake.
2) To change to AMD and buying a Ryzen CPU, 2nd or 3rd generation. This was the staff's recommendation.
Both cases imply a change of MB and to reinstall my current OSes (Windows 10* and Pop!_OS), something I have no problem with. *Of course, privacy tweaks are a no-brainer.
About the budget, my top is at 350€ to just change CPU/MB and add or change RAM, also maybe change case if possible. Micro ATX is preferable, although I am considering a Mini ITX rig. Extra parts (e.g. CPU fan) are also appreciated.
For the budget I say get a MSI B450 Mortar and a Ryzen 5 3600. But that leaves you at having to choose between Ram, or other parts like a new case, not both.
The B450 mortar is a M-ATX, arguably the best bang for the buck for the 3600. ITX mobos that are not the newer x570 series are not as good, and the X570s are all more expensive.
Alternatively, if you found a (used) Core i7-7700(K) or i7-6700(K) for ...say... less than 150€, that could also proof to be a viable short term upgrade.
But it might proof useful, if you could specify what is lacking right now/what programs you'd like better performance in.
Apologies, this is rather off topic but it wasn't worth a new thread and I couldn't find a "Stupid PC questions" thread or similar.
Does anyone know how to stop Windows constantly asking "Do you still want to get calls on this PC?". It's from the "Your Phone" app, which I like, but there's no need for it to keep asking this, because I've never told it not to stay linked.
I can't find a "Yes, now stop asking and stay linked" option. Every time I press Yes it just opens the Your Phone app, then a couple of days (or sometimes even hours) later it'll pop up asking again.
Does anyone know how to stop Windows constantly asking "Do you still want to get calls on this PC?". It's from the "Your Phone" app, which I like, but there's no need for it to keep asking this, because I've never told it not to stay linked.
I can't find a "Yes, now stop asking and stay linked" option. Every time I press Yes it just opens the Your Phone app, then a couple of days (or sometimes even hours) later it'll pop up asking again.
Alright PC building gang I'm back.
So still same PC, when I boot up, I'm getting a USB over current error and turns off after 15 seconds. I have no USB devices plugged in. I did plug the keyboard to try to go into the bios and maybe take a look, but I'm unable enter it but the PC does detect the keyboard and there's power in the keyboard.
Tried unplugging the I/O board usb from he board. Same issue.
I would prefer to not RMA the board during a lock down of my city lol so any suggestions would be appreciated.
Here's my part's list
pcpartpicker.com
So still same PC, when I boot up, I'm getting a USB over current error and turns off after 15 seconds. I have no USB devices plugged in. I did plug the keyboard to try to go into the bios and maybe take a look, but I'm unable enter it but the PC does detect the keyboard and there's power in the keyboard.
Tried unplugging the I/O board usb from he board. Same issue.
I would prefer to not RMA the board during a lock down of my city lol so any suggestions would be appreciated.
Here's my part's list
Saved Part Lists
pcpartpicker.com
Hi everyone, I need some advice. I'm building an office system for my GF and I'm thinking of using the 3200G.
However, does the stock cooler fit into the InWin BP655 case? Is there a spec I can check ahead of time to make sure?
edit: And while I'm on the same topic, are there any slim ITX/mATX cases out there that look nice but don't cost a fortune?
However, does the stock cooler fit into the InWin BP655 case? Is there a spec I can check ahead of time to make sure?
edit: And while I'm on the same topic, are there any slim ITX/mATX cases out there that look nice but don't cost a fortune?
Err the BP655 can fit about 90mm height CPU coolers
The Wraith Stealth is 55mm tall.
You should have no problem fitting it.
The Stealth is really short....sorry for the bad picture.
Alright PC building gang I'm back.
So still same PC, when I boot up, I'm getting a USB over current error and turns off after 15 seconds. I have no USB devices plugged in. I did plug the keyboard to try to go into the bios and maybe take a look, but I'm unable enter it but the PC does detect the keyboard and there's power in the keyboard.
Tried unplugging the I/O board usb from he board. Same issue.
I would prefer to not RMA the board during a lock down of my city lol so any suggestions would be appreciated.
Here's my part's list
Saved Part Lists
If all your USB devices are unplugged and the front panel and other motherboard USB headers are blank double check theres nothing shorting the headers, make sure they arent bent and maybe touching each other and if still you get the error, id say its pretty much time to RMA.
Sometimes its just a BIOS issue, but these days once a new motherboard starts acting up I send it back insta, I aint got time for faulty MBs.
Err the BP655 can fit about 90mm height CPU coolers
The Wraith Stealth is 55mm tall.
You should have no problem fitting it.
The Stealth is really short....sorry for the bad picture.
Thank you! I just can't find the clearance height anywhere, so this is a big help :)
edit: The width is 100mm so yeah I think it'll fit :)
Can a Samsung EVO NVME 1TB ssd (idk the right order of words here lol) fit in an Alienware Aurora R9 box/chassis
OP
OP
Hail Mary list:
- Do you have a PS/2 keyboard? Or a second keyboard you could try?
- Any PCI/PCIe cards to remove apart from the GPU?
- Did you unplug any front panel IO USB from the motherboard (I think this is what you meant by I/O board?)
- Very last ditch: look for corrosion or dirt on the motherboard, and spray with air
Looking at the photo found on this teardown, the R9 can only fit one NVMe M.2 drive by default. (It's the long rectangular device in the bottom right). However, you can buy a PCIe m.2 NVMe card (with one or two slots) on Amazon or elsewhere to add more. They seem to go for sub $20 USD. There's no particular perf hit as long as you by a card that has PCIe 3.0 x4, since that's what NVMe uses to communicate anyways.
Also, that MB reminds me why I don't like prebuilds...-_-
But if I buy that thing, I can use more?
EDIT: How many SSDs can I use with the converter
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Yea I meant the I/O USB. Only thing I have in the PCI is the GPU.
I don't have a second keyboard, but the one i was using is currently the one I'm using now to type this lol. My current, older PC is still functional.
I'm try to see if the board has any dirt or dust.
Just installed a 2TB SSD into my rig...
I feel like I always get lucky when it comes to figuring windows issues out... My rig was not booting due to some error with the boot image. I followed crucials cloning steps steps EXACTLY and the windows image was copied to my new SSD successfully (according to the Acronis sofware). I then followed the steps exactly in replacing the existing SSD in my PC and upon booting from the new SSD received this error:
"boot bcd 0xc00000f"
I then google searched scrambling around and luckily still had the windows 10 install on my fastest USB stick still (it's a Sandisk 64GB stick, but I refuse to save anything else on this because I swear this has saved me a copy of times now). I was able to get it working be searching reddit and found this:
Wondering what happened here and why crucial didn't account for this in their instructions for cloning data from an old SSD to new.
Regardless, I'm glad everything is working. No more big HDD upgrades likely for me until I do a new build 1-2 years from now. Thinking about moving this 1TB SSD to my PS4 Pro.
I feel like I always get lucky when it comes to figuring windows issues out... My rig was not booting due to some error with the boot image. I followed crucials cloning steps steps EXACTLY and the windows image was copied to my new SSD successfully (according to the Acronis sofware). I then followed the steps exactly in replacing the existing SSD in my PC and upon booting from the new SSD received this error:
"boot bcd 0xc00000f"
I then google searched scrambling around and luckily still had the windows 10 install on my fastest USB stick still (it's a Sandisk 64GB stick, but I refuse to save anything else on this because I swear this has saved me a copy of times now). I was able to get it working be searching reddit and found this:
Wondering what happened here and why crucial didn't account for this in their instructions for cloning data from an old SSD to new.
Regardless, I'm glad everything is working. No more big HDD upgrades likely for me until I do a new build 1-2 years from now. Thinking about moving this 1TB SSD to my PS4 Pro.
OP
OP
Yes. An adapter like this one just literally adds an M.2 slot for you. There are models with 1 slot or 2 slots, I think you only need one since you already have an M.2 on the board. The M.2 NVMe slot is basically just a tiny PCIe slot so even the cheap ones should work fine, in theory.
Ultimately all you can do is
1) remove everything not required to post
2) reseat every cable internally and externally (in case something is loose)
2) attempt to swap as many cables as possible (inside or out) to eliminate the possibility of bad cables or shorts
3) look for corrosion/excess on the board that could be causing pins to short, or cables internally that are touching the motherboard but shouldn't
4) very last straw but doublecheck that every cable is plugged into what it should be
The warning you're getting is suggesting either something is getting power that shouldn't, or that something is getting too much power and confusing the system. So that's about as thorough as you can be without having access to technicians. Good luck
Help !
My psu seems to make a high pitched whining/vibrating sound. I guess its considered "coil whine"
Never had this happen before and i just upgraded the gpu to gtx 1650S. Its a 500w psu
It happens only when the game is on screen. If i alt tab out it suddenly stops and immediately starts when the game is on screen. When I alt tab it like "sputters" or slowly chimes off and then kind of hums a few times with the chirp
Edit: now i hear it when Im just on Era/browsing, but its like 1 or 2 chirps every minute or so
What do i do
My psu seems to make a high pitched whining/vibrating sound. I guess its considered "coil whine"
Never had this happen before and i just upgraded the gpu to gtx 1650S. Its a 500w psu
It happens only when the game is on screen. If i alt tab out it suddenly stops and immediately starts when the game is on screen. When I alt tab it like "sputters" or slowly chimes off and then kind of hums a few times with the chirp
Edit: now i hear it when Im just on Era/browsing, but its like 1 or 2 chirps every minute or so
What do i do
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Are you 100% sure the coil whine is coming from your PSU and not your GPU?
Two.
If the top x16 PCIe slot is occupied by a GPU you have two x4 in the middle and one x8 slot at the bottom, you can use any of these three, but since you have 16 Lanes on coffee lake you can have only up to two installed using x4 PCIe lanes each, with the GPU then using the remaining 8. But you can also find dual adapters using 2 lanes per drive, or some other combinations like that, sacrificing some speed for more drives.
edit: If your already have an nvme using the other 4 lanes, then yes, probably just one, but if the drive already installed is a m.2 SATA SSD then it isn't using the lanes.
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What i Dont understand with my PSU is that the recommendation for GTX 1650S is 350-400W. So why is this happening?
is this worth it?
or would it be better to just wait for NZXT to restock their H1 case (whenever that may be)? 32GB of RAM seems like overkill but I could live with it. also, I would prefer a 2080 ti as opposed to a 2080 super but I could always upgrade later.
NZXT H1 Custom Built Gaming PC i9-9900k 3.6ghz RTX 2080 SUPER 32GB ram 2TB SSD | eBay
NZXT H1 Custom Built Gaming PC. - GPU- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER - MSI VENTUS XS OC. - SSD- 2.0 TB Samsung 970 EVO Plus. - Ram- G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 32GB (2 x 16GB) 3200MHz. Condition is Like New.
ebay.us
or would it be better to just wait for NZXT to restock their H1 case (whenever that may be)? 32GB of RAM seems like overkill but I could live with it. also, I would prefer a 2080 ti as opposed to a 2080 super but I could always upgrade later.
I would think It should handle a 1650 super since it is supposed to have a 420W output ( +12V1@18A, +12V2@17A = 216W + 204W). Having an 80+ certification would reassure it is true, but even if it isn't 80 Plus certified I would hope a known brand like Thermaltake aren't lying on the label.
May be that you got a unit that isn't the best out of a model that already isn't great.
Try limiting your FPS to the refresh rate of your display (or slightly below if you have gsync, probably applies to freesync as well).
But I never had this issue before the GPU upgrade (yesterday). Should I just replace the PSU? Maybe the new GPU is affecting the CPU since its older? Would that cause the PSU to have issues?
Is it just coil whine?
The FPS is limited to the refresh rate. 144Hz.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bwJw8Mis this worth it?
NZXT H1 Custom Built Gaming PC i9-9900k 3.6ghz RTX 2080 SUPER 32GB ram 2TB SSD | eBay
NZXT H1 Custom Built Gaming PC. - GPU- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER - MSI VENTUS XS OC. - SSD- 2.0 TB Samsung 970 EVO Plus. - Ram- G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 32GB (2 x 16GB) 3200MHz. Condition is Like New.ebay.us
or would it be better to just wait for NZXT to restock their H1 case (whenever that may be)? 32GB of RAM seems like overkill but I could live with it. also, I would prefer a 2080 ti as opposed to a 2080 super but I could always upgrade later.
$1903+$350 for case=$2253 if you built it yourself. $100 premium for having it already assembled for you. up to you if thats worth it or not. I imagine if you're already spending that much on a pc, the extra $100 is negligible.
Holy shit you werent joking.
It depends on your processor and the number of lanes youve got free.
What stuff do you have that would be taking up lanes.
Thanks very much for that!
The card started artifacting, so I tried DDU but sadly that didn't help. Guess the card is just done for.
I think I'll hold tight for now and see what happens in the market.
I79700k/rtx 2080 super. NVME ssd. Some liquid cooking set upHoly shit you werent joking.
It depends on your processor and the number of lanes youve got free.
What stuff do you have that would be taking up lanes.
I'd suggest putting in a call to the warranty line to see if it's a known issue. In any case, a PSU suddenly making a noticeable chirp or whine is not normal.
OP
OP
Great specs. But it runs closed box because it looks like a motherboard from 1998...which is common for prebuilders like Dell that rarely use off-the-shelf parts.
Anyway, all that's using lanes in there is the RTX and the NVME drive. In this case the CPU offers 16 lanes (used by the x16 slot for the GPU only) and then your chipset has 24 more lanes for devices and onboard stuff. So two more m.2 is fine, just plug the m.2 into the PCIe adapter and then the PCIe adapter into an x4 (smallest) slot.
Thanks. I'll upgrade my keyboard first but it's nice to know there's an option for upgrading storage to an ssd. I'm lucky that console is my primary gaming device
well im out of warranty they said. So i guess i need a new PSU?
What doesnt make sense is they said my new GPU only takes 75W!
Nothing else has changed in my PC. So should I just get another 500W PSU? How about even a 450W? I want to buy on a budget and now Im worried i need to spend a lot
How much is reasonable to spend on a cpu air cooler? The one that came with my Ryzen 3600x has a horrible whine and I can't bear it. I was gonna buy a noctua something or another but it was $95cdn and never in stock for the black one. My GPU is already a jet fucking engine so it's not so much the noise but the variation that bugs me, though eventually I'll ditch the POS and get a quieter GPU too.
Try the Scythe Mugen 5 Rev B. It's not quite to Noctua's level, but it's pretty good and should be way cheaper (although who knows with Coronavirus and Canadian pricing).
There's very little price difference between 500W and say 650W. Just get a gold rated PSU from a major brand and you're gonna be fine. If you want to save some money, look at Reddit build a PC sales, and you can go with a semi modular power supply.
since it's past the five-year point, I'd be inclined to change it out in any case. But you'll hear different opinions about that.